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WILLARD GLAZIER. 



HEADWATERS 



OF THE 



MISSISSIPPI; 

Biographical Sketches of Early and Recent Explorers op the Great 

River, and a Full Account op the Discovery and Location 

OF ITS True Source in a Lake beyond Itasca. 



BY 



CAPTAIN WILLARD GLAZIER, 

Author of "Three Years In the Federal Cavalry," "Capture, Prison-Pen, and Escape," "Bat- 

tlesfor the Union," " Heroes of Three Wars," " Pecnilarides of American Cities," 

"Ocean to Ocean on Horseback," ''Down the (ireat Klver," Etc» 



-«^- 



gtlltt^trctt^tr* 



-«s- 



""^N 26 1894 i 

Chicago and New York : ^ ^ / 

RAND, McNALLY <& COMPANY. 

1893. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1892, by 

WILLAKD GLAZIER, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. 






>■' f 



TO 

ALICE, 

WHO SHAKED THE FATIGUES AND PRIVATIONS OP MY 

SECOND EXPEDITION TO THE HEADWATERS OP 

THE MISSISSIPPI; STOOD WITH ME AT THE 

SOURCE; AND DRANK FROM ITS 

REMOTEST SPRINGS, 

IS LOVIN^GLY INSCRIBED 

BY 

THE AUTHOK. 



PREFACE. 




KOM the authenticated discovery of 
the Mississippi by Hernando de Soto 
in 1541^ to the location of its True 
Source in 1881, comparatively little 
is known of the early pioneers or 
of the series of explorations which 
finally led to a solution of the mys- 
tery that surrounded its Headwaters 
for a period of over three hundred years. The Great 
Eiver and its tributaries have been revealed to the 
world through a multitude of daring enterprises, the 
motives and incidents of which are familiar to but 
few of the present generation. Both the early and 
more modern explorers wrote much, but published 
little, and for the latter reason, tlie records of their 
travels have seldom found their way to the eye of the 
general reader. 

It is the purpose of this volume to present as far 
as possible, from all available sources, some idea of 
the circumstances which led to certain important 
discoveries in North America, together with such 
sketches of the old and recent explorers of the Mis- 
sissippi as the plan of the work will permit. Few 
or no attempts were made up to 1805 to penetrate the 
secret of the origin of the river, in which year Lieu- 
tenant Pike, commissioned by the Government, sig- 

(7) 



8 PREFACE. 

nally failed of his object. The efforts of General 
Cass in 1820, and of Beltrami three years later, 
though well directed and zealously executed, also fell 
short of the attainment of the desired end — the Foun- 
tain-head of the Mississippi was unseen and unknown 
to them. Schoolcraft, in 1832, approached more 
nearly the solution of the problem than any of his 
predecessors, and, in the discovery of Lake Itasca, 
believed he had reached the extreme head of the 
river. He published his discovery to the world, and 
it was generally accepted on his authority. For 
fifty years Lake Itasca was laid down in the maps as 
the Source of the Father of Waters, still not a few 
expressed their doubts of the genuineness of the dis- 
covery, and the Indians of Northern Minnesota 
denied it altogether. Nicollet, a French savant, who 
followed in the footsteps of Schoolcraft in 1836, 
strangely confirmed the latter in what has since been 
proved to be a geographical error. 

Rumors having reached the author of the present 
volume, from various sources, of the doubtful cor- 
rectness of Schoolcraft in assuming Itasca to be the 
Primal Reservoir of the river, he determined to inves- 
tigate the matter in the interest of geography, and, 
having time at his disposal in the summer of 1881, 
organized an expedition to proceed to the Headwaters. 
The result was the discovery of a body of water lying 
immediately to the south of Lake Itasca, and emp- 
tying into the latter through a perennial stream, the 
mouth of which was entirely concealed from view by 
a dense growth of lake vegetation and fallen trees. 
This lake, having an area of 255 acres, a circumfer- 
ence of between five and six miles, and an average 
depth of forty-five feet, being above Itasca, necessarily 



PREFACE. 9 

invalidated the claim of Schoolcraft^ and the author's 
location of the True Head of the Mississippi is now 
recognized by nearly all of the geographers and edu- 
cational publishers of this country and Europe. 

Between 1541 and 1881, every part of the Great 
River had been visited by intrepid explorers, with the 
exception of its almost inaccessible Source — of the 
final discovery of which full particulars will be found 
in Part Third of this volume. 

During the ten years that elapsed between 1881 and 
1891, spasmodic efforts, partaking for the most part 
of a disingenuous and personal character, were made 
by a few cavilers to discredit the author's discovery, 
and it was thought by his friends and those who 
believed in his claim that a further investigation at 
the Head of the river might have the effect of throw- 
ing more light upon the question, and possibly of 
convincing the opposition. Accordingly, a Second 
Expedition was projected, and undertaken in August, 
1891, composed of geographers, scientists, practical 
surveyors, and men of culture; a detailed account of 
which appears in the following chapters, for which 
the author respectfully bespeaks the reader's fair and 
candid consideration. 

An itinerary of the journey to the Headwaters of 
the Great River will be found in the early chapters of 
Part Third, in which occasional but brief reference 
is made to men and places, which may be of some 
practical utility to the tourist contemplating a pil- 
grimage through Northern Minnesota to the Source 
of the Mighty River. 

The writer makes no pretension to have exhausted 
the topics he has treated, or to placing his work in 
comparison with more elaborate productions; but 



10 



PKEFACE. 



presents it to the reader simply as an epitome of the 
history of our magnificent river — a river in many 
respects without a peer. 

* * * The illustrations accompanying this volume 
are from drawings by True Williams, of Chicago, and 
the camera of Fred J. Trost, of the firm of Van Loo 
& Trost, Toledo, Ohio — the latter a member of the 
Expedition of 1891, and the first to photograph 
scenery at the Headwaters of the Mississippi. 




Chicago, January 14, 1893. 



CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER I. 

ALVAE NUNEZ CABE(;A DE VACA. 

De Yaca — Pineda — De Narvaez Expedition — Florida — Ponce 
de Leon — Tampa Bay — Illusions — Weary of the Sea — No 
Signs of Gold — Disappointment — Much Harassed — Hunger 
and Fatigue — A Council — Boats Built — Sail West — More 
Misfortune — Narvaez Lost at Sea — De Vaca Shipwrecked 
— Four Survivors — De Vaca Saved — Six Years with the 
Indians — Western Wilderness — Bison — The Rockies — De 
Vaca and the Mississippi — His Adventures — Returns to 
Spain-rluterview with the King — Rio de la Plata — 
Exiled to Africa — Recalled — Death of De Vaca — His Life 
a Roma 

CHAPTER 11. 

HERisTANDO DE SOTO. 

Discoverer of the Mississippi — Birthplace — Family Misfor- 
tunes — Out-of-door Sports — Don Pedro — De Soto and Isa- 
bella — Betrothed — Don Pedro's Vexation — His Treatment 
of De Soto — They Sail for South America — Pedro Plans De 
Soto's Death — De Soto Joins Pizarro — Battle with Uracca — 
De Soto's Bravery — Codro — De Soto and Isabella — Letters 
Intercepted — A Messenger — His Fate — De Soto's Revenge 
— Don Pedro's Successor — Cordova — De Soto Attacks 
Pedro — Pedro Orders Him to be Slain — Pizarro's Raid 
Upon Peru — Requests the Aid of De Soto — De Soto Rejoins 
Pizarro — Apology for De Soto. 

Cll) 



12 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER III. 

DE SOTO WITH PIZAEEO. 

A Dark Page — A Lover of Adventure — Soldierly Qualities — 
Overtures to De Soto — He Starts South — Deceived — Pizar- 
ro's Abject Nature — Outrages on the Peruvian King — 
Pizarro's Plunder — Natives Abandon the City — Cruelties 
of Pizarro — De Soto Crosses the Andes — A Peaceful 
Embassy — Novel Spectacle — Magnificent Highway — 
Strength of the Nation — Peruvian Camp — The Inca's 
Envoy — Gifts and Friendly Greetings — Pizarro Meets the 
Inca — Consternation of the Inca — Made Prisoner — De Soto's 
Conduct — The Inca Burned at the Stake — De Soto's Anger 
— Peruvians Burn Their Capital — Peru Conquered — De 
Soto Proposes to Return to Spain. 

CHAPTER IV. 

DISCOVEEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

Don Pedro Dies — Isabella Disinherited — Cabe9a de Vaca — 
Expedition to North America — Governor of Cuba — Many 
Join De Soto — Sail for Cuba — Isabella Regent of Cuba — 
Fleet Reaches Florida — Reconnoitering — Juan Ortiz — 
Reputed Gold Fields— The "Lady of the Countree"— A 
Hostage — Disappointments — Discontent — De Soto Hopeful 
— The Mississippi Reached — Rio Grande — Crossed on Rafts 
— No Gold Found — De Soto Despondent — Health Under- 
mined—His Death — Buried in the River — Band Disorgan- 
ized. 

CHAPTER V. 

MAEQUETTE AN^D JOLIET. 

Father Marquette — His Birth — Sails for Canada. Arrives at 
Quebec— Studies Indian Languages — Ordered to Lake 
Superior — Ste, Marie du Sault — Michilimackinac — Policy 
of the French — Louis Joliet— Meets La Salle — The Un- 
known River — Lake Michigan — Allouez and Dablon — 
The Mississippi — Hostile Natives — Indian Village — 
TheManitous — Missouri River — Ohio River — Mosquitoes — 
Descending the Mississippi — Progress Arrested — Resolve to 



CONTEJ^TS. 13 

Return — Ascend the Illinois — Joliet Leaves Marquette— 
Goes to Quebec — Loses All His Papers — Makes His Report 
from Memory — Anticosti — Royal Pilot — Dies — Buried in 
Labrador — Marquette Dies in Michigan — A Herald of 
Western Civilization. 

CHAPTER VI. 

EGBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 

Birth — Sails for Canada — Great Schemes — Father Dollier — 
Expedition Starts — Joliet and Perd — Discovery of the 
Ohio — Returns to France — King Louis — Returns to Can- 
ada — Fort Frontenac — Again Visits France — Minister Col- 
bert — Returns to Canada — De Tonty — Plans — Misfortune 
—Jealous Enemies — The "Griffin" — Fresh Troubles — 
Iroquois — Exploration on Mississippi — Creve-Coeur — Plans 
Defeated — Father Hennepin. 

CHAPTER VII. 

LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 

La Salle Returns to Canada — More Disaster — Starts Out 
Again- -T'resh Supplies — Reverses — Indian Vengeance — 
The Great River — Meets Tonty — Attack by Iroquois — 
Chicago River — Tamaroas — Prudhomme Lost — Nearing 
the Gulf— The Natchez Tribe— Father Membr6— The Open 
Sea— La Salle Takes Formal Possession — Louisiana — Fight 
with Indians — La Salle Falls 111 — Recovers — Prepares to 
Return to Quebec — His Plans — Disappointment— Returns 
to France. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

LAST VOYAGE AKD DEATH OF LA SALLE. 

King Louis Listens to La Salle— Twenty Vessels Sail for 
Canada — Misunderstanding — Reach the Gulf — Misfortune 
Presaged— General Discontent — A Faithless Captain — Fort 
Saint Louis — La Salle Undaunted — Christmas Approached 
— La Salle's Kephew — His Death Determined On — Also 
That of La Salle — Assassination of La Salle — Body Left to 



14 CONTENTS- 

the Beasts of Prey — All in Confusion — Villainy Avenged — ■ 
Duhaut Killed — La Salle's Venture Entirely Defeated — 
The Greatest of Explorers. 

CHAPTER IX. 

FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 

Goes to Canada as a Missionary — Fello\y-Passenger with 
La Salle — Ordered to Fort Frontenac — Joins La Salle — A 
Doubtful Narrative of Adventures — Proceeds Up the ]Mis- 
sissippi — Discovers Saint Anthony Falls — Attacked by 
Sioux — Captured — Life Threatened — Diplomacy — His 
Prayers — Held a Captive — Learns the Sioux Language — 
Descends the River — Returns to the Sioux Village — Leaves 
for Canada — Sails for France — Publishes His Journal — 
Much Criticised by Cotemporaries. 

CHAPTER X. 

LA HONTAN — CHAELEVOIX — CARVER. 

La Hontan Visits the Mississippi — The "Long River" — Much 
Criticised — Nicollet Defends Him — Cannon River — 
Descends the Mississippi — Discoveries — Charlevoix Com- 
missioned by French Government — New France — Quebec 
— Proceeds Westward— The Mississippi — Beautiful Scen- 
ery — New Orleans — Returns to Europe — "History of New 
France" — Captain Jonathcin Carver — Leaves Boston — A 
Northwest Passage — Reaches the Mississippi — Ascends the 
River — Surprised by Indians — Lake Pepin — Ancient Re- 
mains — Saint Anthony Falls — Carver River — Sioux Vil- 
lage — Becomes a Chief — Great Storm — Indians Terrified — 
Carver's Courage — Carver's Cave — Indian Council— Gift of 
Land — Saint Croix River — Lake Superior — Journeys East 
ward — Sails for England — Reports to Government — Re- 
verses Overtake Him — Dies, Aged 48. 



COI^^TEN'TS. 15 

CHAPTER I. 

EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTEKAXT PIKE. 

Enters the Army — Ordered on Exploration — Headwaters of 
the Mississippi — Twenty Mm under His Command— Leaves 
Saint Louis — Ascends the River — Disadvantages — Winter 
Overtakes Him — Much Suffering — Travels on Snow-shoes 
— Sandy Lake — Leech Lake — Cass Lake — Mantle of Snow — 
Meets Fur Traders — Hospitably Received — Explains His 
Object — Turtle Lake — Returns to Saint Louis— His Narra- 
tive—Second Expedition— Rocky Mountains — Pike's Peak 
— Rio Grande — Taken Prisoner by Spaniards — Ordered to 
Leave Their Territory — Reports to His Government — Pro- 
moted — Expedition Against York, Canada — Magazine Ex- 
plodes — Fatally Injured and Dies— A Zealous Officer. 

CHAPTER II. 

THE CASS EXPEDITION. 

War of 1812 — Cass Joins the Forces as Colonel — General Hull 
— Cross s the Detroit River — Hull Surrenders to the 
Enemy — Cass Goes to Washington on Parole — Promoted — 
Appointed Governor of Michigan Territory — Treats with 
the Indians — Suggests an Expedition to the Northwest — 
Schoolcraft — Headwaters of Mississippi — Upper Cedar 
Lake— Secretary of War— Black Hawk War— Minister to 
France— U. S. Senator — Candidate for President — Secre- 
tary of State — A Scholar of Fine Attainments — Wrote 
Several Works — Dies at Detroit, Aaed 84. 



^to"- 



CHAPTER III. 

BELTRAMI AND THE '' JULIAN SOURCE.'' 

Native of Venice — Educated for the Law— Appointed Judge 
— Extraordinary Energy and Capacity — The Carbonari — 



16 CONTENTS. 

Ordered into Exile — Travels through Europe — Visits the 
United States — Turns to Exploration — Valley of the Missis- 
sippi — Talioferra — Embarks for Fort Snelling — Will Seek 
the Source of the Mississippi — Major Long's Expedition — 
Beltrami Offers to Accompany Him — Attempts Made to 
Dissuade Him — Determines to Go — Restless and Adventur- 
ous — The Expedition Leaves Fort Snelling — The Saint 
Peter — A Curious Contrast — Lake Traverse — Red River — 
Pembina — Dissatisfied — Leaves Pembina — Two Chippewas 
and an Interpreter — Kills Two White Bears — Interpreter 
Leaves Beltrami — Also the Two Indians — Great Portage 
River — Source of Red River of the North — Highest Land 
of North America — Sources of the Mississippi — Lake 
Julia — Beltrami in Error — La Biche Lake — Visits New 
Orleans — Mexico — Philadelphia — Returns to Europe— Dies 
in Italy, Aged 75. 

CHAPTER IV. 

SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 

Native of New York — Middlebury College — Visits the Missis- 
sippi Valley — Geological Investigations — Mines and Min- 
erals of Missouri — Goes to Washington — President Mon- 
roe — Calhoun Offers Schoolcraft a Position as Geologist to 
Cass Expedition — Embarks at Detroit — The Mississippi — 
"Cassina" — Again Commissioned — Upper Mississippi — 
Sioux and Chippewas — Sandy Lake Council — Visits Cass 
Lake — In Search of the Source of the Great River — 
Ozawindib— Schoolcraft Island — William Morrison — Lake 
Itasca — Crow Wing River — Indian Council— Appointed 
Indian Agent — The Six Nations — Married to an Indian — 
Second Marriage— Author of Several Works — Visits Europe 
— Dies in Washington, Aged 71. 

CHAPTER V. 

INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 

Native of Savoy, France —Enters College— Prof essor of Mathe- 
matics—Legion of Honor — Ruined Financially — Comes to 
America — Explores the Mississippi — Baltimore— Sum- 



CONTEN^TS. 17 

moned to Washington — To Explore Headwaters of Missis- 
sippi — Prehistoric Relics — Pipe-Stone Quarry — Cannon 
River — His Indian Guide — Red River — Crow Wing — 
Leech Lake — Flat-Mouth — Lake Itasca — Nicollet Creek — 
Lake Bemidji — Cass Lake — Returns to Leech Lake — 
Entertained by Flat-Mouth — 111 Health — Dies at Washing- 
ton. 

CHAPTER VI. 

EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN. 

Leaves Saint Louis in 1846 — An Excursion — History and Tra- 
dition — Lake Pepin — Legends and Romance — "Winona" 
— Red Wing — Saint Peter River — Sioux and Dakotas — 
A Dog-feast — Saint Anthony Falls — Crow Wing River — 
A Wolf Killed — Chased by Wolves — Crow Wing Village 
— William Morrison — The White Panther — Chief Hole-in- 
the-day — Indian Traders — Lake Winnebegoshish — Bear 
Hunt — Cass Lake — The Chippewa Nation — Lake Itasca. 



-o- 



^avt ^ijxvb* 



-o 



CHAPTER I. 

RECEKT EXPLORATION'S. 

Lake Itasca — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Lake Beyond Itasca — 
Primal Reservoir — Misrepresentations — Further Investiga- 
tion — Partisan Opposition — Antagonism to Geographical 
Truth — Error of Schoolcraft. 

CHAPTER 11. 

JOURi^EY TO MINI^ESOTA. 

A Second Expedition — Leave Milwaukee — Through Wiscon- 
sin — The Dalles — The Mississippi — King of American 
Rivers — La Crosse — Origin of Name — Nathan Myrick — 
2 



18 COI^TEKTS. 

Growth of La Crosse — Immense Advantages — Population 
— Minnesota — Wicona — The Republican — D. Sinclair — 
Growth of Winona — A Beautiful City — Commercial Im- 
. portance — Enterprise. 

CHAPTER III. 

WIl^OJS^A TO MIKKEAPOLIS. 

Route — A Contrast — Different Modes of Traveling — Canoe- 
ing — Wabasha — Pepin — Lake of Tears- — Le Sueur — Carver 
— Lake City — Picturesque Scenery — Maiden Rock — Red 
Wing — Swiss Missionaries — Population — Hastings — Saint 
Croix River — Saint Paul, 

CHAPTER IV. 

EAKLY HISTORY OF MINNESOTA. 

Fifty Years Ago — A Wilderness — Indians — Pioneer Times — 
Father Menard — Carver's Treaties — Elected Chief— Pike, 
Cass, Beltrami — Schoolcraft — Nicollet — Fremont — Long — 
Keating — Explorers of Minnesota — Hennepin— Renville — 
Proven9alle — Morrison — Faribault — Morrison and Lake 
Itasca — Minnesota Territory — Governor Ramsey — General 
Sibley — Great Natural Resources. 

CHAPTER V. 

THE ''TWIN CITIES." 

Saint Paul and Minneapolis — Phenomenal Growth — ^First 
Building i.i Saint Paul — The Je?uits-^A Log Chapel — 
Dedicated to the Apostle Paul — The Capital — Population 
18i9, 1854, 1856, 1880, 1890— Location— Five Bridges- 
Head of Navigation — Well-built City — Large Trade — 
State Capitol— Institutions of Learning — Religion and 
Education — The Press — Resorts — Carver's Cave — White 
Bear Lake — Smaller Lakes — Minneapolis — Saint Anthony 
- —Colonel J; H. Stevens— Suspension Bridge — Saint 
Anthony Falls— A Tragic Story— Lumber Businrss— Great 
Flour Mills— Beautiful Residences- University— Athen- 



CONTEIS-TS. 19 

aeum — The Press — Resorts — Healthful Climate — Minne- 
haha — Lake Minnetonka, 

CHAPTER VI. 

PRBPARATIOK FOR SECOlSrU EXPEDITIOI^. 

Members of Expedition — Route to the Headwaters — Press 
Comments — Saint Paul Dispatch — Olohe — Northwestern 
Presbyterian — Red Wing Argus — Albany Knickerbocker — 
Dubuque Trade Journal — Boston Herald — Philadelphia 
Times — Geographical News. 

CHAPTER VII. 

MIKKEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS. 

Leave Minneapolis — Saint Cloud — Brainerd — New Englanders 
— Pine Park — Sanitarium — Y, M. C. A. — Miss Grandel- 
meyer— Lake Itasca — Turtle Lake — Dr. Seal — Chenowage- 
sic — Judge Holland — Dr. Rosser — Caplain Seelye — George 
S. Canfield — Wadena — Park Rapids — Henry R. Cobb — E. 
M. Horton — Shell Prairies. 

CHAPTER YIII. 

'THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. 

C. D. Cutting and Son — Surveyors Horton and Keay — Adams 
and Son — Delezene — Equipment — "Jerry" — Start from 
Park Rapids — Virgin Forest — Dinner Creek — Fording — 
"Morrison River" — Camp Munsell — Mule Lake — Shooting 
a Bear — A Correspondent — Height of Land — Lake Gamble 
— Bear Creek — View of Lake Itasca — Embark for School- 
craft Island. 

CHAPTER IX. 

HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

Camp Shure — Nicollet Creek — Bogs and Ponds — Dead Lakes 
—Hauteur de Terre — Infant Mississippi — Pokegama — 
Primal Reservoir — Schoolcraft — His Narrative Quoted — 
Poem — One Hour on the Island — Passed out of the Lake — 
Nicollet — Coasted Itasca — Nicollet Creek — Floating Bog 
— Government Survey — Hopewell Clarke — Edwin S. Hall. 



20 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER X. 

JOUKN"AL OF THE EXPEDITION". 

Field Notes — Permanent Headquarters — Camp Trost — Trolling 
— Nicollet Creek — Exaggeration — Lake Glazier — Appear- 
ance of the Lake — Coasting Itasca — Affluents — Eagle's Nest 
— Excelsior Creek — Harriet Promontory — Deer Tracks — A 
Cascade — Variety of Trees — " Hernando de Soto" Lake — 
Character Overdrawn — A Dead Lake — A Pleasing Inci- 
dent — Moses Lagard — Horton Creek — Lake Alice — Meas- 
urements — Stars and Stripes — Investigations Ended — A 
Few Remarks — Record of the Expedition — Surveyors' 
Report — Botany of the Region — Salute the Flag — Sunday 
Divine Service — First Sermon at the Source. 

CHAPTER XL 

RETURlsr TO MIN^NEAPOLIS. 

Tablets Erected — Tents Struck — Preparations for Departure — 
Return Journey — Camp Horton — Red Squirrels — Crane 
Lake — Morrison River — Fording the Stream — Shell Prai- 
ries — Park Rapids — Central House — Dr. Winship — A Heavy 
Storm — Discomfort — Senior Member of the Expedition — 
Lagard Leaves the Party — Messrs. Horton and Keay — 
Leave for Wadena — Merchants' Hotel — J. E. Reynolds^ 
Little Falls— "The Antlers"— Mayor Richardson— Com- 
rade Sutton — Arrive in Minneapolis — A Joint Report — 
Members of the Expedition Return to Their Homes. 

CHAPTER XII. 

INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 

True Source Unanimously Indorsed — Gratuitous Assertions of 
Opponents — Corroborative Testimony — Surveyor Horton : 
Measured All Affluents of Lakes Itasca and Glazier — Excel- 
sior Creek — Lake Glazier — The Source of the River. 
Assistant Surveyor Keay: Perfectly Familiar with the 
Region — Lake Glazier the Primal Reservoir. Dr. A. Mun- 
sell: Agrees with All the Members of Expedition — Lake 
Glazier is the True Source. J. C. Crane: Personal Inves- 



COI^TENTS. 21 

tigation — Traced and Measured all Feeders— Lake Glazier 
is the True Source. D. S. Knowlton: Lake South of Itasca 
is the Veritable Source — Geographers Justified in Recog- 
nizing It. Charles E. Harrison: Captain Glazier's Claim 
Fully Justified. Henry R. Cobb: Lake Glazier the Largest 
Body of Water having Connection with Mississippi through 
Itasca. Fred. J. Trost: Perfectly Certain Lake Glazier is 
the True Source. Albert W. Whitney: Lake Glazier 
Fulfills All Conditions Necessary for the Real Source. 
W. S. Shure: Explored All the Region — Lake Glazier is 
the Source. Conclusion — Claim of the Author — Adverse 
Statements Can Not be Substantiated — The Author's Posi- 
tion Same as Schoolcraft's — Conclusions of Second Expedi- 
tion Incontrovertib' 



-o- 



^ppenbix^ 



■0- 



First Glazier Expedition — His Claim — Material for Considera- 
tion — Ten Years of Controversy — Reasons for the Expedi- 
tion — Source Still in Doubt — Companions — Reach Brainerd 
— Conveyance to Leech Lake — Indian Agency — Major 
Ruffee — Chenowagesic — Kabekanka River — Lake Garfield 
— A Portage — Lakes Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasanton, Custer, 
and Kilpatrick — Portages — Lakes Gregg, Davies, and Sher- 
idan — Lakes George and Payne — River Naiwa — Lake 
Elvira — De Soto River — Lake Itasca and Schoolcraft Island 
— Omushkos — Coasting Itasca — Six Small Feeders — Dis- 
covery of the Source — Its Affluents — Error of Schoolcraft 
— Pokegama — Lake Glazier — Elk Lake — Infant Mississippi 
— Results of First Expedition — Schoolcraft and Nicollet — 
Nicollet Creek — Critics and Cavilers — Correspondence 
Relating to First Expedition — Voice of the Press — Cor- 
respondence Previous to Second Expedition — After the 
Return — Editorial Comment — Indorsements of the Glazier 
Claim. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page. 
Portrait of the Author, ----- Frontispiece. 

De Vaca Crossing the Continent, - - - - 33' 

Hernando De Soto, - - 40 

The Inca Receiving De Soto, - - - _ - 55 

Burial of De Soto at Midnight, - - - 1 - 71 

Marquette and Joliet Descending the Mississippi, - 85 

Early Map of the Illinois, 106 

La Salle Taking Possession of the Valley of the Mississippi, 1 21 

Assassination of La Salle, 144 

Hennepin at the Falls of Saint Anthony, - - - 154 

Carver and the Thunder-storm, ----- 168 

Pike Exploring on Snow-shoes, 177 

Cass Expedition Leaving Detroit, . . . . 183 

Beltrami Surprised by Indians, 193 

Southern End of Lake Itasca, ----- 203 

Nicollet at Lake Itasca, 215 

Lanman Pursued by Wolves, 222 

Dalles of the Wisconsin, 240 

View of Maiden Rock — Lake Pepin, - - - - 252 

Map of the Upper Mississippi, 267 

White Bear Lake, - 277 

Falls of Minnehaha, - 287 

Lake Minnetonka, 294 

Members of the Second Expedition , - - - - 303 

In Pine Park, Brainerd, 314 

Log-boom on the Upper Mississippi, - - - 316 

The Mississippi at Brainerd, . - - - - - 318 

A Pioneer of Northern Minnesota, . . - . 321 

Main Street, Wadena, - 323 

Waiting for the Train, Wadena, . - - . 325 

View of Park Rapids, 327 

Starting from Park Rapids, 330 

(22) 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 23 

Page. 

Bruin at Bay, ..-----. 335 

Map of the Headwaters, .-.-.- 340 

Mouth of the Infant Mississippi, ----- 343 

Maps of Schoolcraft and Nicollet, - - - - 349 

Lake Glazier, --------- 353 

Nightfall at Our Encampment, ----- 355 

Eagle's Nest, - - 357 

Mouth of Excelsior Creek, ------ 359 

Caught in Lake Glazier, ..-.-- 361 

On an Indian Trail at the Headwaters, - - - 363 

Strange Meeting in the Wilderness, - . - - 365 

Outlet of Lake Glazier, r - ... - 367 

Lake Alice, - - 309 

Glen Alice, --------- 371 

A Talk on the Promontor}-, ----- 373 

First Sermon at the Source of the Mississippi, - - 375 

Lake Crane, - 380 

Expedition Fording a Stream, ----- 384 

An Abandoned Claim, 386 

A Frontier Bank, - 388 

The Menahga House, 391 

Merchants' Hotel and Park, Wadena, - - - 393 



APPENDIX. 

Map of Lake Glazier and Its Feeders, . - - - 408 

Lake Garfield, 433 

Lake Sheridan, 456 

Bird's-eye View of Lake Glazier, 507 



CHAPTER I. 




ALVAR KUNEZ CABEgA DE VACA. 

HE position which this early explorer 
holds among his contemporaries is very 
important, so far as the narrative of 
his travels in the New World is con- 
cerned, but historians differ widely in 
their estimation of what is due him as 
a discoverer, and will probably never be able to settle 
satisfactorily the question as to whether or not he was 
the first European to see the Mississippi. 

In the confusing mazes of opinion, which are really 
all that are to be consulted in regard to the earliest 
discoveries of the Great River, there have been some 
suggestions of an expedition as early as 1519, under 
Don Alonzo Alvarez Pineda, an officer in the service 
of the Governor of Jamaica; justified by the Spanish 
historian Navarrete, who writes that Pineda discov- 
ered the Mississippi at that time, and named it '^ Rio 
del Espirito Santo/' being influenced to undertake 
this exploration by the universal enthusiasm excited 
by the conquest of Mexico by Cortez. 

The aim and object of those who, like De Vaca, 
penetrated the wildernesses of North America was 
ostensibly to search out the reputed mines of gold and 
silver, rather than to explore the unknown regions 
for the enlightenment of their countrymen and the 

(25) 



26 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

advancement of science; so that tlie recitals of their 
journeyings were more the detailed accounts of the 
obstacles which confronted them, and the hardships 
which they passed through in pursuit of the coveted 
treasure, than careful reports of geographical re- 
search. 

It is this vagueness of description in De Vaca^s nar- 
rative which has caused so much speculation among 
those interested in the history of our Great Central 
Eiver, and which has baffled those who wish to do jus- 
tice to its discoverer. If he crossed the Rio Grande 
of the later Spaniards, he has given no evidence that 
would distinguish it from the other rivers of the 
South, and which would place him unquestionably 
among the great explorers. On the other hand, those 
who follow De Soto in his march through the wilder- 
ness can not doubt that he and his companions saw 
the Mississippi, or that the disappointed cavalier met 
death upon its shores. It is therefore to him that 
historians generally give the contested honor. The 
purpose of these pages is not, however, to advance 
any personal theories, or to assume the championship 
of those who have long since passed away, and whose 
claims could only be considered through uncertain and 
intricate hypotheses, but only to give a brief account 
of their lives, as bearing more or less directly upon 
the history of the Great River. 

De Vaca first comes into prominence as the lieuten- 
ant of Panfilo de Narvaez in the expedition organized 
for the conquest and colonization of ^^the whole 
northern coast of the Gulf ''; an enterprise suggested 
strangely enough by the personal pique of the com- 
mander, who, having failed in his raid upon Oortez, 
in Mexico, as the lieutenant of the jealous Velasquez, 



CABEgA DE VACA. 27 

wished to redeem his somewhat tarnished record by 
glorious action in a new field. Appealing to the Em- 
peror Charles V., he obtained a commission to invade 
the country and to assume the title of Adelantado of 
those lands wliich he should discover within the Km'' 
its of what was then known as Florida — a large area 
embracing the present division and extending for an 
almost indefinite distance toward the northwest. 

Thus encouraged by the crown^ he sailed from San 
Lucar on the seventeenth of June, 1527, with a com- 
pany of six hundred, and a fleet of five vessels. At 
Hispaniola, where a six-weeks^ halt was made to fur- 
ther prepare for the journey, more tlian a hundred 
of the volunteers abandoned the expedition; while at 
Trinidad, whither two vessels had been sent, in charge 
of De Vaca and Captain Pantoja, to obtain provisions, 
both crews perished in a violent storm, those only 
escaping who had gone ashore. Without having 
sighted the coast of Florida, Narvaez had thus lost 
a sixth of his men. 

Soon overtaking the shipwrecked party, he estab- 
lished winter quarters at Xagua, twelves leagues be- 
yond, where in February he joined the expedition 
with reinforcements, and arranged for the final voyage. 

The Land of Flowers, through which Ponce de 
Leon had traveled in search of fabled treasures and 
the magical Fountain of Youth, was still hidden 
beyond the blue waters of the Gulf, and the shadow 
of coming misfortunes, which superstition hinted at, 
found no place among the eager adventurers. 

On the eleventh of April Florida was reached, and 
a landing made just north of Tampa Bay, where the 
colors of Spain were unfurled and the soil solemnly 
appropriated in the name of Charles V. It had been 



28 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

the intention to enter the larger bay to the south, but 
through a miscalculation of the j^ilot, Miruelo, the 
ships had passed it, and the destiny of the expedition 
became thus entirely changed. 

Narvaez and his officers now anticipated a tri- 
umphal march through a country which they had 
peopled with a race far superior to the Mexicans or 
Peruvians; whose towns were to be rich in the wealth 
of precious metals, and whose inhabitants, milder 
than the South Americans, would offer them no 
resistance; a country whose limits they believed 
inclosed an empire greater than Montezuma's, and 
within whose confines were to be found splendors yet 
undreamed of. 

Their illusions were soon dispelled. Advancing 
upon an Indian village, whose cabins could be seen at 
the head of the little bay in which the ships were 
anchored, they were fearlessly met by the natives, 
whose temerity somewhat surprised them. After a 
friendly reception they were requested by unmistak- 
able signs to leave, and the firmness of the Indians so 
imjoressed Narvaez — who, although a man of unques- 
tioned courage, was lacking in decision — that he called 
a consultation of his principal officers to determine 
upon the wisest course. They concluded to follow the 
coast by land in search of the bay which they had at- 
tempted to reach — the Espirito Santo of De Soto's later 
expedition — the ships to take a similar course and meet 
them at that point. De Vaca was strongly opposed 
to this plan, but his companions were thoroughly 
weary of the sea, and were eager to seek their for- 
tunes on terra firrtia. Had they been more famil- 
iar with the country, the enterprise would not have 
terminated so disastrously; for exploring parties. 



CABEgA DE YACA. 29 

sent out at the beginning of the march, found the 
bay they were in search of, and, failing to recognize 
it, believed they had been unsuccessful; while another 
party, meeting Indians who wore golden ornaments, 
were told by them of a place to the north, which they 
called " Abalachie," where the metal could be found. 
By following this direction they would have undoubt- 
edly reached the mines of Upper Georgia, which 
would have amply satisfied them; but instead they 
entered Appalachee toward the south, where they 
found nothing but poor villages and no sign of the 
coveted treasure. 

From the old narratives, full as they are of exag- 
gerations, we catch a glimpse of a magnificent type 
of the Indian here; living in wretched huts in the 
most primitive way, and totally lacking in those 
graces with which the imaginative Spaniards had 
clothed them, yet none the less admirable, and pos- 
sessed of courage,antelligence, and a certain physical 
elegance. 

After spending more than three weeks with these 
Appalachians, who were described as men of gigantic 
proportions, the company made preparations to move 
on toward Haute, where they were told they would 
find an abundance of food, and a very rich region. 

If Narvaez had been enterprising enough at this 
point to verify the statements of the Indians, which 
were made chiefly to induce him and his men to leave 
their village, he would have found a broad expanse 
of fertile and populous country all about him; but, 
lacking in those active and daring qualities which 
have ever characterized the successful explorer, he 
was easily led by the cunning natives and persuaded 
that the ^'^good lands ^^ lay beyond. 



30 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

At Halite^ as at Appalachee, the Spaniards met only 
disappointment, for the inhabitants, learning of their 
approach, had abandoned and burned their homes 
and made away with their provisions. It was as 
though some enchantment preceded them to de- 
stroy the villages and to lay waste the fields. They 
were harassed on every side by hostile natives, who 
watched for them whenever they ventured beyond 
camp, and who sent showers of arrows into their 
ranks on the march; until at last, worn out with 
hunger, sickness, and fatigue, and thoroughly dis- 
couraged, their only desire was to escape. The ships 
had not been heard from, and were supposed to have 
returned to Havana, but De Vaca, with Captains Cas- 
tillo and Dorantes and an escort of fifty foot soldiers, 
went to the Gulf, which was about a day's journey 
away, to see if there might be a sail in sight. The 
broad expanse betrayed no sign, and they were obliged 
to return with the disheartening news. A council 
was then called and a plan discussed which only 
hopeless men could have determined upon. Imme- 
diately the forest was converted into a ship-yard, 
where two hundred and forty men worked with the 
energy of despair. Within six weeks they had com- 
pleted a fleet of five boats out of whatever materials 
were available, and by the twenty-second of Septem- 
ber, 1528, were ready to embark. "^^Narvaez com- 
manded the first boat; the second was in charge of 
Enriquez, the controller, and Juan Suarez, the com- 
missary; in the third went Captains Castillo and 
Dorantes; in the fourth. Captains Tellez and Penalosa, 
and in the fifth, Cabega de Vaca — each boat carrying 
about forty-eight men.''' 

As it would have been disastrous to remain longer 



CABEgA DE VACA. 31 

on shore, where provisions were becoming more 
scarce, where their lives were continually exposed to 
the attacks of the Indians, and where the miasma of 
the swamps began to breed a deadly fever, these two 
hundred and forty half -starved and disappointed men 
immediately put to sea, which was dangerous for 
loosely constructed craft at any season, but doubly 
so during the autumn months. They took a westerly 
course along the coast, with the idea of reaching the 
Eiver of Palms and the Spanish settlements in Mex- 
ico — which on the maps of the time had been inaccu- 
rately placed — believing they would be less exposed 
than by -striking out across the Gulf; but notwith- 
standing this caution the company was destined to 
destruction, and misfortune met it on every hand. 

Narvaez, separated from his crew, which had gone 
ashore, was swept out to sea in a violent storm and 
never seen again. De Vaca^s party, and those of Cas- 
tillo and Dorantes-, were shipwrecked upon the Island 
of Santa Eosa, where nearly all perished; while those 
who were with Enriquez and Juan Suarez suffered 
the most terrible privations and at last they too mis- 
erably perished. The ninety-six men in the boats 
commanded by Captains Tellez and Penalosa, going 
ashore near Pass Christian for water and provisions, 
were killed by the natives, who could easily overcome 
them, so weak had they become bodily and in 
numbers. 

There were now only four survivors of that great 
expedition which a short time before had left the Bay 
of the True Cross believing their arms irresistible and 
their success assured; these were De Vaca, Castillo, 
Dorantes, and the Moor Estevanico. Through the 
inevitable changes of a life among a strange and half- 



32 EAELY EXPLORERS. 

savage people, this little company soon became sepa- 
rated and its members subjected to a kind of servi- 
tude. For six years De Vaca stayed among the coast 
tribes, carrying on a system of trade with the Indians 
of the interior, and becoming familiar with their 
language and customs, until at last he was able to 
communicate with his companions with whom he 
hoped to reach the Spanish settlements in Mexico. 
This plan was, strangely enough, promoted by the 
Indians, who began to hold the white men in super- 
stitious awe, calling them '^ medicine men,^^ and 
believing them endowed with supernatural powers. 

De Vaca, with amusing frankness, describes his 
modus operandi, which was to say a paternoster and 
an ave maria over the patient; and he mentions the 
generosity of the Indians, who, after " treatment," 
often gave the great ''^medicines" all they possessed, 
and accom23anied them in a kind of triumphal pro- 
cession from place to place. In this way they pene- 
trated the Western Wilderness, " traversing the bison 
plains and the adobe towns of the half-civilized 
natives of New Mexico, perched on their rocky 
heights," and crossing the rugged and magnificent 
passes of the Kockies. 

Mr. John O'Shea, who has made a careful studv of 
the subject, in his ^^ Discovery and Explorations of 
the Mississippi," says: '^'In this long wandering he 
(De Vaca) must have reached and crossed the Missis- 
sippi, but we in vain examine his narrative for some- 
thing to distinguish it from any other large river that 
he met." In fact, it is entirely through conjecture 
that De Vaca is given the benefit of a doubt. By 
some unexplained circumstance, he and his compan- 
ions may have entirely failed to cross the stream, and 



"S^^l^^^ri^^ 



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m 

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o 
> 

o 

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CO 

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(33) 



34 EAELY EXPLORERS. 

again, he may have been, as Mr. O'Shea adds, ''the 
first European who 'launched his boat upon its 
waters.^" 

Upon coming to a large stream, to the westward, 
the last in that lonely journey across the country, 
De Vaca and his companions met a party of Indians, 
from whom they learned that white men had recently 
been seen near there, both on the water and on horse- 
back, and traces of their late passage were soon dis- 
covered. In a short time they were overtaken, and 
found to be a band of Spaniards from a Mexican colony. 
The meeting was a strange one, and the four wanderers 
were greeted as those returned from the dead. 

Clothed in the rough dress of the natives, which 
long association had thrust upon them; changed by 
contact with their peculiar life, and bronzed by expos- 
ure to wind and sun, their appearance produced a 
singular effect upon their countrymen, none the less 
heightened by a mysterious air, which had been capri- 
ciously assumed. They had explored the wonders of 
a new land, and had visited unknown peoples — what 
wonder, then, that they should entertain their un- 
questioning friends with tales of adventure, the more 
fascinating because the more highly colored? The 
Spaniards, with their natural love of the marvelous, 
listened spellbound while De Vaca related the 
experiences which he and his fellow-travelers had 
passed through, regarding them with mingled curios- 
ity and admiration. They were received "with the 
greatest sympathy by the Spanish authorities in 
Mexico," and, having all their wants supplied, were 
soon enabled to return to their native land, where 
their recitals awakened even deeper interest and 
enthusiasm. 



CABEgA DE YACA. 35 

Estevanico, the Moor, preferred to remain in Mex- 
ico, where he became the guide of Francisco Narco de 
Nizza, and ultimately perished at the hands of the 
Indians, who suspected him of treachery, because 
he announced himself as the emissary of the white 
people. 

De Vaca reached Havana on the fourth of May, 
remaining there a month to await the arrival of the 
two other vessels, on which Castillo and Dorantes had 
taken passage; then, eager to return to Spain, and to 
confer with his Sovereign upon the things which he 
had seen, he sailed for Lisbon, which was reached on 
the fifteenth of August, 1537. 

It was De Vaca^s policy, upon his return, to be non- 
committal, as he was anxious to privately inform the 
King of the resources of what he called " the richest 
country in the world," and to beg the privilege of 
returning to Florida in the service of his country; 
but Charles, with royal partiality, was listening to 
the requests of his more influential subjects, and 
De Vaca was obliged to content himself with the 
title of Adelantado of the province of Eio de la 
Plata, a commission requiring active duty and some 
danger. 

While discharging the functions of this office, he 
became involved in a quarrel with one of his country- 
men, whose jealousy he had excited, which ultimately 
resulted in his arrest and dismissal. Eight years of 
exile in Africa followed, which, to one long accus- 
tomed to the privations of a strange country and 
possessed of a strong love of adventure, must have 
had its compensations. 

Upon his recall in 1552 he was given a judgeship 
in Seville, where he died in 1564. 



36 EAKLY EXPLOKERS. 

The story of his life, from beginning to end, is a 
romance, in which the scenes and people of primitive 
America are invested with the charm of history's 
^^ distant twilight," into whose shadows many a stu- 
dent has ventured in the cause of truth. Among 
these, several have become convinced, from their own 
researches, that the honor of the discovery of the Mis- 
sissippi rightfully belongs to the brave lieutenant of 
Panfilo Narvaez; and George Fairbanks, in his ^'His- 
tory of Florida," even pays him the tribute of saying 
that ^'^ujion some high blufE of that wondrous stream 
should be placed a monument " to this European who 
first visited its shores. 

Whether or not future investigation will uncrown 
the old hero De Soto for one who may have unjustly 
remained unrecognized is a question which only time 
can answer; but whoever the claimant, we are ready 
to say: " Honor to whom honor is due." 




CHAPTER II. 

HEENAN^DO I)E SOTO. 

'HE discovery of tlie Mississippi is 
very generally ascribed to Hernando 
De Soto, who, in his adventurous 
marcli in pursuit of gold and glory, 
reached the Great Eiver in April, 
1541, near the site of the present 
city of Natchez. 

In the opinion of most historians 
no white man's eye had ever before beheld that flood 
whose banks are now inhabited by busy millions, and 
in following the achievements of its discoverer, we 
find it filled with new interest. From the cold springs 
that rise in the northern wilderness, to the great torrent 
that mingles with the tropical Gulf three thousand 
miles below, the Spaniard who lies buried beneath its 
waters still claims an undying tribute. His ambitious 
march westward, through treaclierous swamps and 
over flower-dotted prairies, in pursuit of the fabled El 
Dorado; the desjierate encounters with Indians, who 
at every turn tried to resist tlie advance of his steel- 
clad band; the delays and disappointments, and the 
ultimate shattering of their '^ castles in Spain,'^ all 
form a narrative romantic and fascinating as one of 
the enchantments of the Arabian Nights. Indeed, 
were it not that the contemporaneous accounts tally 

so nearly, we of a later day would be inclined to 

(37^ 



38 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

accept the adventures of these helmeted cavaliers with 
much less allowance. 

So closely is the life of De Soto identified with the 
history of exploration in the Valley of the Mississippi, 
and so brilliant a touch has his presence added to its 
early annals, that any sketch of the Great Kiver with- 
out mention of him would lose its most attractive 
feature. He was born in the little walled town of 
Xeres, in the province of Estramadura, Southern 
Spain, in the year 1500, just at the threshold of the 
new century, destined to be one of the brightest in 
the annals of the Old World, and one of the most 
significant in the history of the New. The ancestral 
castle in which he first saw light, once the scene of 
wealth and magnificence, had become, through re- 
peated misfortunes to his family, only the dilapidated 
abode of a haughty race, and Hernando found him- 
self, like many another young Sjoaniard of his time, 
the heir of poverty and pride. His early surround- 
ings, and the enforced idleness which peculiar cir- 
cumstances pressed upon him, no doubt greatly 
influenced his after career. His father was unable to 
give him the advantages which were accessible to the 
sons of richer noblemen, and custom forbade that the 
family fortunes should be retrieved by work; so the 
bright boy passed his childhood in comparative idle- 
ness, indulging at his will in the out-of-door sports, 
for which he had a great fondness, and visiting 
occasionally the neighboring monasteries, where he 
probably received the religious bent that afterward 
proved such a strong force in his character. 

While a mere lad, De Soto came under the notice 
of Don Pedro de Avila, Count of Piiiio en Eostro, 
and this wealthy nobleman, impressed by the manly 



HERN"AKDO DE SOTO. 39 

bearing of the boy, and his personal attractiveness, be- 
came liis patron, and offered him all the privileges of 
an own son. He was sent to one of the leading Spanish 
universities — probably that of Saragossa — where his 
skill in fencing and horsemanship was perfected, and 
where he received the further training that fitted him 
for subsequent events. He was prominent at the 
tournaments, and always excited the envy of com- 
petitive cavaliers in these exhibitions of martial 
prowess. 

In the intervals between the university terms, Don 
Pedro's protege found a welcome in his foster-father's 
home, where he became a great favorite; and so sure 
wasHhe confidence which his friend reposed in him, 
that when the former was appointed Governor of 
Darien, he asked De Soto to remain with his family 
in the castle near Badajoz. Here, during Don Pedro's 
absence, De Soto formed a strong attachment for the 
Governor's second daughter, Isabella, a beautiful girl 
of sixteen, who, in accordance with the custom of 
her country and station, had already been presented 
at court and received many flattering attentions. 
Yet, notwithstanding the attractions of her more 
eligible suitors. Donna Isabella showed a partial pref- 
erence for her poor cavalier, and in time the mutual 
sentiment was sealed by a betrothal. The two were 
constantly thrown together, and being congenial in 
tastes passed many happy days in their common home. 
At this time young De Soto possessed all the charms 
of mind and person that would win for him the 
admiration of his associates. He was tall and erect, 
with the perfect grace that is acquired by familiarity 
with athletic exercise; his features were handsome, 
and suited his well-poised head; his bearing was 



"V^WS^T-^. 



u^^r-^^^rwszr^ 




HERNANDO DE SOTO. 
(40) 



3sd 




HERNAKDO DE SOTO. 41 

dignified, and his character without reproach. It 
can not be wondered at, therefore, that two such 
attractive beings should have been drawn together, 
or that they should have become an example of love 
and devotion for centuries afterward. 

Upon the return of Don Pedro from Darien five 
years later, to arrange his private affairs preparatory 
to a more prolonged sojourn in the New World, his 
daughter's betrothal was made known to him. At 
first he was disposed to ridicule the affair; but 
upon being persuaded by Isabella's governess that the 
girl returned the affection, and that she had declared, 
if her wish were opposed, she would enter a convent, 
the matter became more serious, and finally took such 
an offensive aspect that the count was beside himself 
with vexation. He was the more disturbed from the 
fact that a short time before Isabella had been sought 
in marriage by one of the nobility — a young man near 
of kin to royalty itself; and that his daughter should 
be indifferent to the bright prospects of such an 
alliance, and prefer a dependent upon her father's 
bounty, was more than the haughty noble could 
endure. He began to treat his former favorite with 
dislike and even contempt, and, while feigning indif- 
ference to the situation, formed a scheme for the 
separation of the objects of his displeasure, and tried 
to prevent their further intercourse. 

Being possessed of an extremely sensitive nature, 
De Soto felt keenly the rebuke of his benefactor. 
He could boast of an ancestry as ancient and honor- 
able as that of Don Pedro, and by the rules of Span- 
ish heraldry " was entitled to adniission into the 
noble order of Santiago." He therefore resented the 
marked discourtesy shown him, and determined to 



42 ^ EARLY EXPLORERS. 

break down the mock barrier which had been raised 
against him, by becoming rich. Accordingly, when 
Don Pedro, with every pretension of friendship, 
invited Hernando to accompany him upon his second 
voyage to the New World, with the promise of a 
captaincy, and suggestions of the fabled wealth of 
America, the offer was gladly accepted. The young 
man's parents were dead, and even had they not been, 
their circumstances would hardly have been such as 
to allow them to lend their soti any assistance; besides, 
he was without friends, and this opportunity seemed 
to promise the fulfillment of his hopes. 

Although every precaution had been taken to pre- 
vent a final meeting of the lovers, the watchers were 
evaded, and Hernando and Isabella met again to renew 
their pledge and to say farewell. They talked long 
and earnestly of the future, and parted with Isabella's 
memorable words, " Hernando, remember that one 
treacherous friend is more dangerous than a thousand 
avowed enemies.'' Soon after this interview Don 
Pedro and his followers embarked at San Lucar, and 
sailed toward the yet unexplored and attractive con- 
tinent which had burst upon the vision of Columbus 
but a short time before, and which had already begun 
to dazzle the eye of Europe with its magnificent pos- 
sibilities. 

In the course of this voyage the wily Governor 
doubtless perfected his plans for the ruin of his 
unsuspecting protege, whom he had determined to 
subject to such trying circumstances that he would 
be powerless to oppose them. With the cleverness of 
the arch fiend himself, he arranged perilous expedi- 
tions, in which De Soto's life would be more or less 
exposed, and, presupposing that the young captain 



IIEllN-A:N-t)0 DE SOTO. 43 

would be gratified by the confidence thus placed in 
him^ congratulated himself upon the outcome. 

Upon their arrival at Darien, De Soto was given 
command of a troop of horse, and with tliese steel- 
clad followers began the brilliant career which has 
filled many a page of early history with valiant deeds, 
and touched them with the fascinating color of 
romance. The field for daring adventure was most 
prolific, and wherever the cavalry led, there could be 
seen the white plume of De Soto. His contempo- 
raries, however, have not charged him with any of 
the disgusting crimes of which his brother officers 
were guilty, and which were often done in obedience 
to Don Pedro's command. Upon one occasion he 
refused to obey a distasteful order and sent the Gov- 
ernor his decided disapproval. This involved him in 
a duel with one of his most desperate companions, 
who was sent to him with the message, and whom 
De Soto took occasion to visit with his scorn; but his 
old-time training and unerring arm gave him the 
advantage in the encounter, and he escaped unhurt. 
A similar instance of his moral courage occurred 
during Pizarro's raid upon the territories of the 
Indian Uracca in 1521. 

That outraged monarch, having suffered beyond 
endurance from the unprovoked attacks of the Span- 
iards, at last made preparation to resist them. He 
gathered about him a force of some twenty thousand 
warriors, armed with their deadly arrows and wooden 
swords, and these, under his leadership, started 
toward the camp of the enemy. Don Pedro, learn- 
ing of the intended attack, made plans to circumvent 
the Indians, who were much stronger in numbers, 
and sending a party under Espinosa by sea, along the 



44 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

western coast of Uracca's dominions, and another by 
land under Pizarro, attempted to rout the opposing 
forces by a surprise. De Soto and his troo]) joined 
Pizarro's division. Uracca, with a thousand men, 
perceiving the approach of Espinosa from the coast, 
went bravely to the attack, and succeeded in com- 
pletely demoralizing the Spanish soldiery; but De 
Soto, having heard the noise of battle from a distance, 
left his position and hurried with all dispatch to the 
aid of his distressed countrymen, thus turning the 
fortunes of the day. 

The approach to the scene of conflict was through 
an almost impassable part of the country, cut up by 
huge rocks and seamed with chasms, and over this 
difflcult way the dauntless captain led his hesitating 
followers by his own example and by the electrifying 
war-cry, " Saint lago to the rescue! " 

The charge of this unexpected force, and above all 
the sight of the unfamiliar horses, whose riders were 
proof against the showers of arrows sent into theii* 
midst, struck terror into their hearts and caused 
them to retreat to the hills in consternation; but 
having regained their courage there, they began such 
a vigorous onslaught upon the Spaniards in the 
valley below, that those warriors quickly retreated to 
their ships to avoid the hail of poisoned darts. See- 
ing this action on the part of their recent conquerors, 
the Indians ran down from their shelter and renewed 
the attack. In a moment the quick eye of De Soto 
saw their movement, and, knowing tlieir fear of 
horses, ordered his men to face about. This 
frightened the pursuers, who were now willing to 
watch the Spaniards from a safe distance. At this 
point Pizarro and Espinosa met to discuss the 



HERKANDO DE SOTO. 45 

situation, and decided ujion retreat. De Soto could 
not endure such cowardice. He knew that although 
the numbers of the Spaniards were considerably less 
than those of the enemy, the latter could never cope 
with the trained soldiers arrayed against them, and h^ 
felt besides, a certain responsibility for his country's 
glory. He therefore looked upon the cowardly action 
of his su2:>erior officers with ill-concealed disgust, and 
availed himself of the first opportunity to display his 
sentiment. This occurred but a short time after- 
ward when, having abandoned the field, the Spanish 
forces fell upon a small village farther up the coast 
and began their murderous work. 

The men of the village were away, and the pillagers, 
taking advantage of their absence, undertook to make 
prisoners of the women and children. This again 
excited the indignation of De Soto, who informed 
Espinosa that if his severe measures were not sus- 
pended, and the captives released, he would withdraw 
his men and leave him to his fate. Espinosa under- 
stood the strength of this threat, and considering the 
consequences, sullenly consented. 

After this affair, De Soto went to Darien with mes- 
sages to the Governor, and upon his return found the 
force at Borrica hemmed in by Uracca's men. By a 
few masterly sallies he succeeded in dispersing the 
besiegers, and while engaged in this way was able to 
save the life of one Micer Codro, who afterward 
returned the kindness by risking his life for him. 
Codro was an Italian scientist and astrologer, who had 
been exiled from his native country under the convic- 
tion of being a magician, and had come to America 
when Don Pedro's predecessor, Vasco ISTufiez de Bal- 
boa, was Governor. Under this mild administration 



46 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

the student had pursued his favorite studies unmo- 
lested, and had won the friendship of the natives, 
but in the excitement of the encounter with their 
new foes they mistook him for an enemy, and would 
have killed him had not De Soto interposed. Although 
he showed very little gratitude at the time, being, as he 
afterward expressed it, too much his debtor to make a 
sufficient acknowledgment, he later performed a kind- 
ness which few men would have dared to undertake. 

When De Aviki wished to send messages to Spain, 
and was deliberating as to whom he might intrust 
with the valuable papers, knowing too well that none 
of his favorites was reliable, he fixed upon the sim- 
ple-minded Italian. 

Upon leaving Spain, Don Pedro had taken every 
precaution to prevent any correspondence between 
De Soto and his daughter. All letters were inter- 
cepted, and a violation of his commands was j^unisha- 
ble by death; but Codro was willing to risk the 
penalty that he might in a small way return the 
obligation to his friend. For five years no communi- 
cation had passed between the lovers, and now that 
an opportunity offered, De Soto feared to involve the 
bearer of his message. However, he was persuaded 
to accept the favor, and intrusted Micer Codro with 
a letter to his ladv-love, for whom he still entertained 
feelings of the tenderest affection. The Italian gladly 
delivered the message to Donna Isabella, receiving her 
warmest gratitude in return, and offered to carry 
her answering letter; but unfortunately for those 
concerned, the incautious man stated, upon his arrival 
at Badajoz, that he had a packet for Don Pedro^s 
daughter, which aroused the suspicion of the vigilant 
inmates of the castle. 



HERJ^ANDO DE SOTO. 47 

The same ship that carried Codro back to Darien, 
bore communications to Don Pedro convicting the 
bearer of his letters, and virtually sealing his fate. 
Within a few days after his return he was sent upon 
a supposed mineralogical survey to the gulf of San 
Miguel and was never seen again. His fate was even 
unknown until after the disgraceful expedition to 
Nicaragua, when De Soto came by chance upon the 
captain and his crew whom Don Pedro had com- 
missioned to murder Codro. These wretches were 
boasting of the way in which they had tortured their 
victim, and were laughing at his death agonies, when 
De ^oto, overhearing the remarks, and burning with 
revenge, rushed upon the leader and dispatched him 
with his sword. Then, turning to the crew, who 
were long accustomed to such violent- sights, and 
who were more than half inclined to sympathize with 
the avenger, he made such a bitter charge against 
them that they were glad to escape without punish- 
ment. When Codro was expiring, he had declared 
that his tormentor would soon follow him, and it was 
when the murderer was laughing at the possibility, 
that De Soto came forward and fulfilled the prophecy. 

Some time before this De Soto had been sent by 
the Governor to Nicaragua in search of a passage, 
which was supposed to exist, connecting the two 
oceans. After having explored seven hundred miles 
of sea coast in a fruitless search for the imaginary 
strait, the expedition returned; but not without some 
recompense, for the rich country through which they 
had passed had yielded them a magnificent bounty. 
De Soto was beginning to realize his ambition. He 
had always maintained an independent attitude toward 
the Governor, but now that he had acquired a small 



48 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

fortune he could better afford to show his indiffer- 
ence. He was first to acquaint Don Pedro with the 
fact that his successor, whom the King of Spain had 
sent, was ah^eady on the way to Darien. This in- 
duced the guilty official to seek refuge in Nica- 
ragua, for he hardly exj)ected to be treated with 
more clemency than he himself had shown toward 
his predecessor, and, once in the neighboring terri- 
tory, he could put an end to Cordova, for whom he 
entertained the strongest hatred and envy. He there- 
fore went to Leon, and, under pretense of good will, 
sent messengers to acquaint that official of his coming. 
He Avas welcomed in the public square, where he 
drew up his soldiers in such order as to presage 
treachery to his kindly host; but this honest-hearted- 
ruler had no fear of the man from whom he had 
received his authority. Now that his superior had 
arrived, he proceeded to extend the courtesies of 
hosjntality, and to give an account of his own 
administration. He had not gone far in his recital 
when Don Pedro, according to a pre-arranged plan, 
ordered his headsman, who was standing in readiness, 
to put an end to the unsuspecting Cordova, whose 
head an instant later was rolling in the dust. 

De Soto, who, with his men, had taken a position 
on the side of the square opposite to Don Pedro and 
his guards, now spurred to desperation at sight of his 
friend^s murder, dashed with drawn sword upon Don 
Pedro and would have dispatched him, had he not, 
by a sudden self-mastery, forborne for the sake of 
Isabella, and, without a sign of resistance from the 
soldiers, returned to his place. An instant later, Don 
Pedro, having recovered from his momentary conster- 
nation, called out: '^'Hernando De Soto you are 



HERKANDO DE SOTO. 49 

ordered to dismount and submit yourself to the pun- 
ishment you have just seen inflicted upon your trait- 
orous comrade. Soldiers, drag him from his horse 
if he refuses to obey."" 

For a time the men held back, but one of them at 
last stepped forward in obedience to the order. With 
a powerful sweep of his sabre De Soto cleaved his 
helmet in twain, and Don Pedro, seeing that to insist 
would be dangerous, since he was not supported, 
allowed the matter to pass. 

By a complication of circumstances the King's em- 
issary never landed at Darien, and reassured, Don 
Pedro again assumed the authority which he had not 
really given up. Pizarro was now projecting an 
unprovoked raid upon Peru in quest of gold and 
glory, and was calling upon the Governor for rein- 
forcements. He desired especially the cooperation of 
De Soto, who, he knew, would be a strong ally. The 
proposition was submitted to De Soto, who unac- 
countably accepted it, greatly to the satisfaction of 
Don Pedro and Pizarro, but unfortunately for his 
own good name. It might be said in defense of this 
course, however, that continued disappointments had 
driven the Spaniard almost to desperation, and, uncer- 
tain of the future, he recklessly joined his fortunes 
with the murderous adventurer in the hope that he 
might be able to acquire the wealth and renown 
which was his ultimate and absorbing aim. 



4 



CHAPTER III. 




DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 

LEAVING Darieii, we turn to a new chap- 
ter in the career of De Soto — his con- 
nection with Francisco Pizarro in the 
conquest of PerU;, which forms the most 
romantic, if not the most noteworthy, 
period of his stirring and adventurous 
life. 

It is possible that reference to the expedition of 
Pizarro may not seem entirely consistent with one of 
the chief purposes of this volume, which is to pre- 
sent De Soto as the discoverer of the Mississippi 
River; still, the narrative of his heroic deeds would 
be incomplete without alluding briefly, at least, to 
that dark page in his history, which, were it possi- 
ble, I would gladly strike from his soldier escutch- 
eon. 

It is not strange that the invasion and conquest of 
one of the richest countries of South America should 
have presented some attractions to this lover of 
adventure, nor that when Pizarro found himself con- 
fronted by overwhelming numbers in the mountain 
fastnesses of Peru, he shoukl have remembered the 
gallant and chivalrous De Soto, who had given ample 
proof of his soldierly qualities. When, therefore, he 
nrged the Governor to send his captain forward, 
holding out to that officer, meanwhile, the promise of 
second in command in the coming expedition, he 

(50) 



DE SOTO WITH PIZAERO. 51 

knew that the inducement would hardly fail. In 
confirmation of his prediction, De Soto started south- 
ward, soon afterward, with two ships and a small but 
strong force, in the direction of the Island of Puna, 
a strip of land separated from the mainland by a 
narrow channel, where Pizarro had been in possession 
for a short time. Upon his arrival there, De Soto 
found to his surprise that the promise of the lieuten- 
ancy was only a ruse which had been resorted to in 
order to secure his services, as that position was 
already filled by Pizarro^s elder brother, Hernando. 
The honor only rested nominally upon the latter, 
however, for from the moment that De Soto entered 
camp he was accorded the honors due to his deserved 
rank, and the general sentiment was never opposed 
by Pizarro, who, in his abject nature, did not dare to 
show any resentment toward a man so vastly his supe- 
rior, and upon whose cooperation he must com- 
pletely rely. 

During his short stay within the territory of the 
Peruvian monarch, ostensibly to convert its people to 
Christianity, all manner of outrages had been com- 
mitted by Pizarro and his confederates, and reports 
of his crimes had reached the mainland before the 
coming of De Soto. It was therefore the policy of 
the commander-in-chief to remain in the background, 
while his lieutenant, with a small following, went to 
reconnoitre the country and to see what manner of 
people they would have to encounter. As the rafts 
bearing the steel-clad warriors were slowly pushed 
ashore, the natives, naturally alarmed at the unusual 
sight, and determined to put an end to the invaders 
who were bringing destruction to their homes, at- 
tempted to make some resistance; but the invincible 



52 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

Spaniards soon gained the advantage and began 
their march toward Tumbez. Some time previously 
Pizarro had visited this town, and while craftily 
holding in check his desire for plunder, in order that 
he might form some idea of its wealth, had inspired 
the hospitable citizens with confidence, and had been 
given the freedom of a trusted friend; but the later 
news of his cruelties on the neighboring island had 
given them an idea of his intentions, so that upon 
his second visit he found only abandoned and dis- 
mantled houses. 

This was a disappointment to the ''conquerors,'^ 
but they were not limited in their new field. With 
an escort of sixty horsemen and twenty foot soldiers, 
De Soto was soon sent to explore the towns lying 
farther in the interior. The natural fearlessness of 
the man who, free from the guilty motives that actu- 
ated his commander, could penetrate the lonely and 
unknown passes of this South American country 
without forebodings, won for him the confidence and 
good-will of the peaceful Peruvians. It is not prob- 
able that he believed he was violating any moral law 
in pursuing this course, nor that he need expect any 
resistance from the natives. The expedition was 
approved by his Catholic Majesty, the King of 
Spain, and any gold of which he or his companions 
might come into possession was to be obtained by 
legitimate means, for he especially enjoined his men 
not to commit any violence. In fact, everything 
tended to give his advance into the territories of the 
Inca the appearance of a peaceful embassy. The 
gleam of shield and sword, the grace of richly capari- 
soned steeds, the proud bearing of the helmeted cava- 
liers, and the waving of silken banners contributed 



DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 53 

to make the passing of the glittering cavalcade a 
novel and awe-inspiring spectacle; while the lovely 
scenery of Pern, although lately marked by the 
demolition of civil war^, in turn won the admiration 
of the Spaniards. 

In slowly pursuing their course through the narrow 
defiles and along the fertile valleys, De Soto and his 
followers came upon the great highway leading to 
the capital of the empire, which extended for fifteen 
hundred miles across the varied passes of the Andes. 
This stupendous evidence of engineering skill, ac- 
complished by a comparatively obscure people, 
intimated to the Spaniards the possible strength of 
a nation which they had come to molest, and which, 
had their ultimate aims been known, could have 
crushed them at a single blow. Like the native 
houses, this road had been constructed of great 
blocks of stone, so dexterously fitted together as to 
make it appear one solid mass of masonry. Continu- 
ing their way upon this magnificent thoroughfare, 
the adventurers found themselves nearing the head- 
quarters of the Peruvian camp, which was located 
about three miles from the town of Caxamarca. At 
Guoncabama they were met by the Inca's envoy, 
bearing gifts and friendly greetings to Pizarro, and 
were asked to return with him to their chief. 
With some hesitation, De Soto consented, retrac- 
ing his course to San Miguel, the town which 
Pizarro was founding, some ninety miles south of 
Tumbez. 

It is said that the superstitious Pizarro, while 
engaged in a close battle with the Indians a short 
time before, had seen spirits hovering in the air above 
the contesting ranks; those on his side apparently led 



54 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

by one resembling Saint Michael, wliile those of the 
enemy represented the forces of the Dark Angel. 

In the heat of the encounter. Saint Michael and 
his host were seen to meet and overcome the oppos- 
ing ranks, which Pizarro took as a sign of his own 
trinmph. With renewed vigor the battle was con- 
tinued, the Spaniard vowing, if his men conquered, 
he would do something in honor of the friendly 
saint. The result was the building of a town which 
was to become the center of a large colony, and 
whose patron was to be San Miguel. 

Having entered its walls, the Inca^s envoy, with 
all the ceremony of an ostentatious court, delivered 
the greetings and gifts of his Sovereign to the Spanish 
general; but Pizarro, notwithstanding these tokens 
of amity, suspected Attahuallapa of treachery, and 
feared to be drawn into some snare. 

De Soto's report of the magnificence of the larger 
towns through which he had passed, and the friend- 
liness of the people, in a measure reassured him, and 
more effectually aroused his craving for plunder, for 
during De Soto's absence he had. conceived a design 
to seize the Inca in his own stronghold, and to assume 
control of the rich dominions which would thus fall 
into his victorious hand. These designs had not been 
made known to De Soto, who, he knew, would have 
rejected them. It was therefore innocently that 
his lieutenant conducted him to the presence of the 
Peruvian ruler, and in the name of the King of Spain 
besonght an interview. 

The first meeting of the Inca and De Soto was a 
noble sight, and one which the historian has delighted 
to describe. On the wide plain beyond Caxamarca 
stretched the tents of the Indian army — a force 



m 

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> 

m 
o 
m 

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(55; 



56 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

numbered by thousands — with the gorgeous pavilion 
of the Inca in their midst; and here, sheltered by 
his protecting legions, the Indian ruler awaited the 
approach of the Spaniard. When within a few 
paces of the Inca, partly out of respect to the dignity 
of his presence, and partly to lessen the fears of the 
attendants, who were unable to emulate the proud 
indifference of their King at siglit of the spirited 
white horse which the stranger rode, that gallant 
cavalier dismounted, and advanced to offer his salu- 
tations. 

In reply to his request that Pizarro be granted an 
audience, the Inca appointed the next day, and, as 
De Soto noticed during their conversation that 
Attahuallapa betrayed some interest in the restless 
movements of the horse, which had been left in 
charge of an attendant, he mounted and performed 
several equestrian feats, greatly to the astonish- 
ment and terror of the awed retainers. This over, 
De Soto retired, bearing the royal message to Pizarro. 

It was not until late in the afternoon of November 
sixteenth, 1532, that the Inca, with his splendid 
cortege, approached the public square of Caxamarca, 
the place which had been agreed upon for the 
meeting. Already the body of armed warriors, 
drawn up in imposing array, awaited his coming: 
Attaiiuallapa, dressed in the gorgeous robes of nis 
office, his handsome head bound in the variegated 
turban from which hung the scarlet tassel, the insignia 
of his rank, his pensive features standing out in 
striking contrast against the glittering palanquin, 
presented an impressive and suggestive spectacle to 
the Spaniards. 

Friar Vincent, Pizarro's spiritual adviser, and the 



DE SOTO TVITH PIZARRO. 57 

chief among the missionary band, so-called, now 
advanced toward the King with upheld crucifix, and 
in the language of his priestly office exhorted him to 
embrace the Catholic faith, presenting some of its 
doctrines, and saying tliat it was for this that his 
countrymen had entered the Peruvian territories. 

The abruptness and strangeness of the address 
somewhat surprised Attahiudlapa, who, with becom- 
ing firmness, refused to relinquish the religion of his 
fatliers, and awaited the further pleasure of his 
inexplicable guests. Friar Vincent immediately re- 
ported his non-success to Pizarro, and, incensed at 
the proud bearing of the Peruvian, encouraged his 
master to set upon the obstinate unbelievers. The 
time for action had come. If the opportunity were 
lost, the Spaniards might be surrounded and an- 
nihilated, for their leader well knew that his out- 
rages would, sooner or later, raise rebellion. In a 
moment the squai'c was a battle-ground, the Peruvian 
retainers, filled with consternation, and defenseless, 
were being hewn down, or attempting to escape the 
massacre; the bearers of the royal palanquin were 
giving way before the deadly swords of their assailants, 
and the Inca was at the mercy of Pizarro and his 
men. A body of desperate Indians had burst through 
the stone inclosure of the square and were fleeing 
toward the distant tents, hotly pursued by a body of 
horsemen; but their object gained, the troops were 
recalled and the carnage stopped. 

What part De Soto took in this perfidious affair 
has not been recorded. With the friendly feeling he 
entertained for Attahuallapa, it is not probable that he 
would enter into any conspiracy against him, or that 
he would countenance such a breach of military honor. 



58 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

If he was a witness of the scene, and made no attempt 
to prevent it, this is the darkest accusation that can be 
brought against him, but his subsequent kindness to 
the outraged monarch would seem to deny even this. 

During the dark days that followed, De Soto made 
frequent visits to the captive, and Attahuallapa, rec- 
ognizing his superior qualities and sense of honor, 
soon gave him his confidence. Through De Soto the 
agreement was drawn up by which the Inca was to be 
rcloased upon the payment of the fabulous sum which, 
in his desperation, he had offered. This ransom, 
consisting of two rooms closely filled with gold and 
silver ornaments, taken from temple and home, was 
gladly given by the faithful Peruvians for the return 
of their Sovereign, whom they reverenced almost to 
idolatry; but even this did not satisfy Pizarro. He 
feared to release Attaliuallapa, as he might, when 
returned to his people, excite their sense of injustice. 
He therefore notified his officers of his intentions 
upon the Inca's life, which he had long determined 
to take, giving as his reason the involved position of 
the Spanish troops, and hinting that the Peruvians 
were already preparing for an attack. 

De Soto, who felt that his honor, as well as that of 
Pizarro, was at stake, had been continually urgi)ig 
Attahuallapa^s release, and refused to believe the 
report of an uprising; but Pizarro, with his usual cun- 
ning, suggested that his incredulous lieutenant take 
a body of horse and reconnoitre that part of the coun- 
try supposed to be the gathering place of the enemy ^s 
forces. This De Soto undertook without delay, hop- 
ing the sooner to set the prisoner at liberty; while 
Pizarro, relieved of his presence, prepared to carry 
out his terrible purpose. 



DE SOTO WITH PIZAERO. 59 

The Inca once out of the way, the Peruvians would 
be thrown into a state of confusion, thus making the 
seizure of the capital easy, and safety assured for 
the ^^ Christian missionaries/^ 

When Attahuallapa was informed of his fate, he 
seemed overcome by its cruelty, and called excitedly 
for his friend De Soto, who he hoped might mitigate 
the sentence; but Pizarro mockingly informed him 
that Dc Soto was far away and powerless to lend 
him any assistance. Although he had received very 
little encouragement, he confidently believed that 
Pizarro would keep his promise and treat him honor- 
ably. The sudden crushing of his hopes was there- 
fore doubly cruel. 

The execution was arranged to take place at night- 
fall, and the soldiers, bearing torches, were called 
together at a given signal from their leader. The 
Inca, his wretched captivity about to end, was once 
more led out under the open sky, shackled hand 
and foot, and bound to the stake. Friar Vincent 
approached and again exhorted him to embrace the 
faith of Rome, with the promise that the manner of 
his death would be mitigated by the act; but to this 
hypocritical appeal Attahuallapa refused to listen, 
accepting his fate with courageous firmness. 

De Soto, soon returning from his fruitless expedi- 
tion, found the Inca dead and the Spaniards plan- 
ning to take possession of his dominions. His grief 
and anger knew no bounds. Going to Pizarro's tent, 
he bitterly accused him of the murder and threatened 
to report the crime to the King of Spain; then 
throwing down his glove in the presence of those who 
had heard his accusation, he challenged them to deny 
the guilt of their chief. Receiving no response, he 



60 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

turned and left the tent, with mingled feelings of 
hatred and remorse. The fact that he should have 
joined them afterward in their march toward Cuzco 
seems strangely inconsistent; but to abandon his 
countrymen in their hour of peril would have appeared 
cowardly, and Hernando De Soto was not the one to 
retreat. 

The advance upon the capital brought ruin and 
desolation to the villages along the route, for wiiile 
De Soto, with his stout-hearted band, was hurrying 
forward, sparing always private property, while occa- 
sionally plundering the temj^les and shrines, Pizarro, 
with his freebooters, was pillaging and plundering in 
every direction. In this way the road, was cleared, 
and the attacks of the natives repulsed by the swords of 
De Soto^s men, while Pizarro reaped the benefits. In 
the meantime, Tapaxpa, the grief-stricken son of 
Attahuallapa, had been seized and declared his 
father's successor, that Pizarro might still hold the 
Inca in his power. Another captive was one of 
the most influential of the nobilitv, a man trusted 
and loved by the Peruvians, whom Pizarro guarded and 
declared to be held as a hostage, threatening to put 
him to death at the first sign of rebellion from the 
people. This unfortunate victim, upon a slight out- 
break during the march toward Cuzco, was notified 
that his end was near, and was tendered the consola- 
tions of the church; but this offer presented no attrac- 
tions to one who had suffered such injustice at the 
hands of its fanatical devotees, and he told them that 
he did not understand their religion, and all he had 
seen of it had not impressed him favorably. 

When within a short distance of the capital, De 
Soto's troop was assailed by a desperate band of 



DE SOTO WITH PIZARRO. 61 

Peruvians, who had taken a position on high ground 
above the pass through which the Spaniards were 
moving, and who determined to make a last effort to 
destroy their enemies. Stones were hurled from the 
overhanging cliffs, and showers of arrows sent clash- 
ing down upon the steel armor of horse and rider, 
but De Soto quickly dashed up the steep defile, and, 
once on the level plain, routed the enemy. The 
news of defeat was soon spread, and, having lost all 
hope, the Peruvians hurried to the city and apj)lied 
the torch to every wall. As the conquering army 
approached, they sa\^ its palaces and temples in 
flames and its inhabitants vanished. Hurrying 
hither and thither, they attempted to rescue part of 
the gold and silver which had not been carried away, 
but the conflagration was too great, and the splendid 
treasures of the Inca were lost in the ruins. 

The conquest of Peru accomplished, and his desire 
for gold thoroughly satisfied, De Soto now turned 
with renewed craving to the peaceful confines of 
Spain, and to the long-delayed meeting with Donna 
Isabella. He, therefore, prepared to return, that he 
might claim the hand of his lady-love, and share with 
her his splendid fortune. A good share of Attahual- 
lapa's ransom had fallen to him, and he had accepted 
it rather than allow it to go into the hands of Pizarro. 
While following the fortunes of his associates in Peru, 
he seems to have attempted in a degree the moderation 
of their terrible deeds, and the upholding of his coun- 
try's honor. That he did not do so more effectually 
is the one great reproach which humanity raises 
against him; the one great blemish upon an other- 
,wise admirable and chivalrous career. 




CHAPTER IV. 

DISCOVEEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

^^^ WO years of luxury and inactivity in Spain 
after the hardships of the Peruvian ex- 
pedition, had satisfied the restless spirit 
of De Soto, and quite exhausted the 
wealth which he had accumulated. 

Unsparingly the golden treasure of 
the Inca had been given in exchange for 
the extravagances ' which attracted the wealthier 
grandees, and the envied cavalier again found it neces- 
sary to seek his fortune beyond the sea. While he was 
still in South America with Pizarro, Don Pedro had 
died, leaving the greater share of his wealth for the 
erection of a convent, over which his elder daughter 
was appointed abbess, and disinheriting his former 
favorite on account of her faithful attachment to Don 
Hernando, for whom, to the last, he entertained the 
strongest dislike. Isabella was therefore unable to 
follow her generous impulses and avoid another 
separation. 

At this time all Europe was stirred by the tales of 
Cabega de Vaca, one of the adventurers who had 
escaped the fate of his companions under Narvaez in 
Florida, and who suggested to his credulous country- 
men untold regions of gold in the chimerical El 
Dorado. His words had magical effect. Immedi- 
ately the rich fields of North America were the 

(62) 



DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 63 

engrossing topic, the cynosure of ambitions fortune- 
seekers. Very naturally, De Soto came into promi- 
nence, and was soon known to be contemplating an 
expedition thither. He believed that he would find 
an easier road to fortune in the land which De Vaca 
had described than in the mountains of Peru, and 
he accordingly appealed to King Charles V., offering 
to meet all expenses and to reserve a fifth of the 
treasure for the crown if His Majesty would sanction 
the undertaking. 

With admirable generosity, Charles gave his con- 
sent, offering his zealous subject the governorship of 
Cuba, with other high-sounding dignities, and grant- 
ing him an estate, with the title of Adelantado, in 
Florida. Enthusiastic knights from every direction 
now hastened to place themselves under the leader- 
ship of De Soto, and to make preparations for their 
voyage. The magnificence of the equipments was in 
accordance with their inflated ideas, representing 
vast sums of money, and appearing more suitable for 
a triumphal march through the reputed land of gold, 
than for the toilsome and dangerous campaigns which 
were actually to be endured. 

The passage of De Soto and his followers through 
her streets, en route to the ships, formed probably 
the most brilliant pageant which the citizens of San 
Lucar had ever witnessed. 

With waving pennants, and decks glittering with 
the armor of nine hundred knights, the fleet moved 
slowly out of port, taking a southerly course in the 
direction of the Canary Isles. Within two weeks 
they cast anchor at Gomera, sailing from thence to 
San lago de Cuba, which was reached toward the 
latter part of May. As the distance lessened between 



64 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

them and their El Dorado, the adventurers, impa- 
tient of dehiy, urged the termination of the voyage; 
and De Soto, equally eager, hastened forward to 
Havana, where final arrangements were to be made. 
Two brigantines were sent out from here to discover 
the most practicable route for the expedition, and 
upon their return knight and lady bade adieu; the 
great band of explorers, now ten hundred strong, 
were animated with the hope of their future achieve- 
ments, while Isabella having been appointed regent 
during the Governor's absence, assumed the responsi- 
bilities of the office with many sad forebodings. 

Seven days later, on Whitsunday, 1539, the fleet 
reached the quiet waters of Tampa Bay, which they 
named Espirito Santo, in honor of the clay. Here 
they met the first opposition. On the high hills 
along the shore the beacons of the unknown natives 
were sending out a menacing signal, and De Soto, 
wishing to avoid any unnecessary encounter, pru- 
dently made a landing two leagues beyond. A mj^rch 
of a few miles through the enchanted wilderness, 
gorgeous in its luxuriant tangles of tropical vegeta- 
tion, brought the Spaniards to an abandoned village, 
the home of the Indian chief Ucita, where the first 
encampment was made. Here, instead of the rude 
dwellings of the northern tribes, they found houses 
of wood, some of them adorned with hangings of 
finely cured and handsomely colored skins, with floor 
mats of the same soft texture; while the dwelling of 
the cacique, standing apart upon a little eminence, 
bore traces of being more fancifully arranged than 
the rest. 

As soon as he had taken possession of this con- 
venient camp, De Soto sent messengers to Ucita 



DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 65 

stating the peaceful object of his journey, and asking 
for his friendship; but the chief ignored these ad- 
vances, and kept his whereabouts a secret. 

Unfortunately for those who were to follow him, 
Narvaez had thoroughly antagonized the natives 
through whose territories he had passed, and had 
aroused in them a stubborn and bitter hatred. Wher- 
ever he had gone he had given fresh cause for revenge, 
and to the chief whose good-will De Soto was now 
seeking, he had offered the most shocking atrocities. 
It was therefore useless to remain longer at this 
point, with the hope of receiving any information or 
of obtaining guides. Troops were sent out in every 
direction to reconnoitre. One of these parties, upon 
leaving camp, came upon a body of Indians, who, 
frightened at the appearance of the strangers, ran 
into the woods. One of their number, however, 
remained in sight, and, advancing, made the sign of 
the cross, greatly to the astonishment of the Span- 
iards. When the mysterious figure reached them, they 
learned that he was Juan Ortiz, a survivor of the 
Narvaez expedition, who had been captured by the 
Indians, and, after suffering many persecutions at the 
hands of his captors, had finally escaped and received 
the protection of a friendly chief. 

After hearing the story of their countryman^s 
adventures, and rejoicing in his recovery, the men 
anxiously questioned him concerning the reputed 
gold fields. But Ortiz, having been confined to the 
limits of a single tribe, was neither able to give them 
any information nor to act as their guide. Upon 
finding no sign of the coveted treasure, and dis- 
couraged by the hardships which had already been 
met with, De Soto sent the ships back to Cuba, and 



66 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

planned a march toward the north. Hunger had 
ah'eady begun to threaten the band, but, finding 
occasional fields of maize, and here and there a fertile 
stretch of country, the men bravely advanced under 
the leadership of their dauntless captain, baffling 
native treachery, and encountering the difficulties of 
swamp and forest, where their lives were continually 
in jeopardy. 

Still led on by rumors of gold, De Soto and his 
followers reached the domain of Vitachuco, the 
cacique whose stratagem brought about one of the 
most picturesque episodes in the history of the 
expedition. This Indian, harboring a deadly revenge 
against the Spaniards, notwithstanding the passive 
tolerance of his brother chiefs, determined to annihi- 
late the invaders when he should have them in his 
power. Under the guise of friendship he invited 
them to his village, and while showing them every 
attention formed a plot for their destruction as ingen- 
ious as it was deadly. 

On an appointed day the Spaniards were to be 
invited to witness some maneuvers of Vitachuco's 
warriors, the Indian weapons to be concealed in the 
long grass, and at a given signal from the chief, the 
conspirators were to seize the hidden arms and rush 
upon their defenseless guests — Vitachuco, with twelve 
chosen braves, to single out the leader. De Soto, 
having been warned by the faithful Ortiz, was pre- 
pared to meet the forces of the enemy on their own 
ground, and when the fatal day arrived accepted the 
invitation of the chief with evident pleasure. The 
scene of conflict, as the old historians describe it, was 
a magnificent one. Out on the sunny plain stretched 
the long line of warriors drawn up in martial array. 



DISCOVEKY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 67 

their treacherous weapons hidden in the long grass; 
while opposite, De Soto, with his followers, was 
watching with intent gaze the dexterous movements 
of the Indians, and waiting for the cacique's signal. 
In an instant the warning came. AVith the swiftness 
of eagles the traitorous band closed upon the Span- 
iards; but finding, to their astonishment, that they 
must deal with a force as carefully armed and as 
fully prepared as themselves, their onset was soon 
repulsed. 

Leaving Vitachuco, the expedition moved on toward 
the north until the Great Morass was reached; thence 
to the southwest toward Appalachee Bay, where the 
boats from Cuba were met and sent westward in 
search of a favorable port. The march was then 
directed toward the northeast, where there was a 
region abounding in pearls and gold, whose Sovereign 
was the gentle and amiable Queen called by the old 
chroniclers *^ the Ladie of the Countree." The Span- 
iards seem to have received every kindness at her 
hands, and to have found a fabulous amount of pearls 
of high value, and yet they kept the ^Madie"*^ as a 
hostage, it is said, to insure the non-resistance of her 
people. Under some pretext, however, she effected 
her escape, a gallant Spaniard disappearing at the 
same time, and upon this episode a Southern writer 
has woven his romantic tale of ^' Andres Vasconselos.^^ 

Still deceived by the misrepresentations of their 
guides, and by the finding of the pearls, the travelers 
pursued their ignis-fatuus through the fields of 
South Carolina, Georgia, and Alabama, whither it 
led them many a weary march. Then turning south- 
ward they reached Mauvilla, from which the present 
town of Mobile probably derived its name. Here 



68 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

their slaves were captured and the pearls lost with 
them^ but De Soto^ determined to avenge the robbery, 
made a violent attack upon the place, setting fire to 
the houses in which his valuable treasures were con- 
sumed. Here also the ships sent from Ap2:)alachee 
were heard from, but for various reasons De Soto did 
not wish to have their arrival known. He had hoped 
to send back to Cuba glowing accounts of the country 
and to make presents of pearls and gold, but both 
these plans had become im2)ossible. He feared, too, 
if those who were with him once saAv the means of 
abandoning the enterprise, they would leave him 
powerless to advance, for with the disheartening 
opposition which he had met during eighteen 
months, the courageous spirit of De Soto was still 
unwilling to acknowledge failure. Having, therefore, 
planned the course he would pursue, he held no com- 
munication with Maldonado, the captain of the 
ships, but turned resolutely away, '^'^ determined to 
send no news of himself until he had found some 
rich country." 

After waiting many weeks for some sign of the 
expedition, Maldonado returned to Cuba, where the 
Governor and those who were with him were lamented 
as dead. 

In the meanwhile, De Soto was taking a north- 
westerly course through the fields and forests of what 
is now the flourishing State of Mississij^pi, and slowly 
approaching that Great Stream with which his destiny 
became so closely linked. As he advanced, the In- 
dians became more hostile, contesting the way with 
arrow and tomahawk and harassing the encampment 
at night. His m»n, too, were discontented, having 
seen hundreds of their companions perish from 



DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 69 

exposure and violence, and having found no recom- 
pense for their wearisome marches. Yet under these 
embarrassments the intrepid cavalier led them on, 
apparently stimulated by defeat and strengthened by 
difficulty. 

At last the shores of the Mississippi were reached, 
it is conjectured, between the thirty-fifth and 
thirty-sixth parallels of latitude, a few miles below 
Memphis. What impression the river made upon 
De Soto and his companions as they came suddenly 
upon it can only be imagined. It was then, as 
it is now, a turbulent flood, whirling along on its 
muddy surface a mass of logs and driftwood from 
the forest banks above, where the white man was 
unknown and the Indian was still monarch. Thev 
had found nothing in all their wanderings that 
would compare with it, no valley enriched by so dig- 
nified a stream, so they named it Rio Grande. 

Finding it thus unexpectedly, the Great River no 
doubt had its effect upon the minds of the explorers, 
who, notwithstanding repeated disa23pointments, 
could yet find something in the hidden regions of an 
unknown country to stimulate their energies. In- 
stead therefore of turning back when this new bar- 
rier crossed their way, rafts were built and the entire 
company carried to the other side. Parties were then 
sent hither and thither to explore the country and to 
inquire after the "yellow metal," but the interpret- 
ers gave them the old response — gold could be found 
farther on in the mountains to the west. Still 
deceived and suspected by the Indians, who only 
wished to be rid of them, the Spaniards passed over 
miles of that great Western country which remained 
a wilderness long after their feet had penetrated its 



70 EAELY EXPLORERS. 

solitudes; occasionally finding a friendly chief, or a 
rich section, where the confident De Soto would lay 
plans for the establishment of a powerful and wealthy 
colony. So amid repeated discouragements and 
fruitless wanderings the expedition reached again the 
'' Father of Waters," whence a few months before they 
had started forth reanimated. 

De Soto, the ever buoyant leader, teeming with 
new schemes and always ready to face difficulties, 
now began to give way to an irresistible despondency. 
All of his hopes were vanished, his health was under- 
mined by continued hardship, and those about him 
were impatient to return to Cuba. 

Seeing his further efforts unavailing, he decided 
upon returning to the coast, and accordingly sent a 
party down the stream to make investigations; but 
they could get no information, and the canebrakes 
and other obstructions met with in the tortuous 
descent deterred their progress. 

A low fever began to waste his strength and he had 
no power to resist it. So lay the Chevalier De Soto 
upon his death-bed, broken in body and spirit, and un- 
conscious of the great part he was to play in the history 
of the river, within sight of whose shores he expired. 

On the twenty-first of May, 1542, he called those 
who remained of his brave band about him, to give 
them his last messages and to appoint his successor. 

There has been much conjecture regarding the 
death of De Soto, some historians expressing a con- 
viction of foul play, and bringing together circum- 
stantial evidence to confirm it; but whether or not 
their surmises were correct must ever remain a mys- 
tery. 

After dark on the day of his death, the burial rites 



c 
> 



o 

D 

m 
en 
O 



> 



o 

I 




(71) 



72 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

were performed iij^on the shore of the river, but, 
finding that Indians visited the spot the next day, mak- 
ing strange signs, they feared to leave the remains, 
lest they should be disinterred and subjected to dis- 
honor. The cacique who had accompanied them on 
their journey also asked where the white chief was, 
and they, thinking, if his death were known, some 
assault would be made, replied that he had gone to 
Heaven to confer with the Great Spirit, and would 
soon return to lead them to the land of gold. At 
midnight, under pretense of going to fish, they 
exhumed the body, and, cutting a place for it in the 
trunk of a live-oak, carried it out into the middle of 
the stream, and there in silence lowered it to its last 
resting place. 

With no one of Don Hernando's force to stimulate 
and encourage, the band was soon disorganized and 
scattered in different directions; the greater number 
starting toward the Southwest in search of a Spanish 
colony said to have been founded upon the chores of 
the Gulf. With the energy of desperate men they 
launched their small fleet of rudely constructed boats 
once more upon the open sea, sometimes overtaken by 
storms and driven ashore, sometimes iujured by rocks, 
until at last they reached the flourishing little Mex- 
ican town of Panuco. Here they were received as 
those returned from the dead, and were soon given 
an opportunity to reach their home and friends. 
Others tried to return to Cuba by another route, and 
either miserably perished on the way or were never 
heard from; so that of all the brilliant company 
which sailed from Havana three vears before, onlv 
a remnant was left to tell the tale of suffering and 
disappointment. 



DISCOVERY OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 73 

De Soto, whose enterprise had been looked upon 
as a magnificent venture, destined, perhaps, to change 
the financial condition of Spain, and to establish her 
jurisdiction in a new and rich country, was now con- 
sidered as a man who had perished in a worthless 
caase; whose early triumphs were shadowed by fail- 
ure. 

The planting of the cross upon the banks of the 
great North American River had not attained the sig- 
nificance which later chroniclers ascribed to it, and 
investigation had not yet been sufficiently thorough to 
attach importance to the event. Time, however, 
has, in a measure, thrown light upon the page of 
history, and has done justice to the Early Explorers, 
not least among whom is the brave knight and 
Christian gentleman, Don Hernando De Soto, To 
him falls the honor of the discovery of the Missis- 
sippi — the noble " Father of Waters." 




CHAPTER V. 

MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 

EFORE Columbus opened a new field for 

exploration on the Western Continent, 

Europe had been speculating upon a 

possible route to Asia and the East 

through untried channels. What lay 

beyond the great ocean, and whither 

would it lead the venturesome mariner, 

" were questions already being asked by 

those progressive spirits, whose queries in all ages have 

inspired the scientist and the explorer. 

When, in the attempt to solve the important prob- 
lem, the shores of a new country were accidentally 
discovered, the excitement which this created for a 
time banished the original motive; but, as explora- 
tion began in turn to be directed toward the unknown 
regions of America, zealous adventurers hoped to find 
the fancied channel within its boundaries. 

From the Canadian settlements along the Saint 
Lawrence those daring expeditions were first projected 
which began the spread of the Gospel among the 
savage tribes of the West; and which, placing within 
the knowledge of men untraveled territories, added 
new glory to the name of France. This, too, in the 
face of continual encounters with the treacherous 
natives, whose tomahawks had already dyed wood- 
land and valley with the white man^s blood. 

As early as 1658, two fur traders had reached the 

* (74) 



MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 75 

western end of Lake Superior, where they were told 
by the Sioux of a great river, whose valley their 
Indian fancy had enveloped in mystery and romance. 
Up and down its windings many a war and hunting 
party had passed in the centuries before the European 
came, investing it with traditions which even now 
cling to it, and which leave some faint trace of a pre- 
historic era. Of this the traders told upon their 
return to Canada, exciting the greatest interest in the 
western river, and reviving the old theory of an 
international waterway. " The Indians had described 
it; the Jesuits were eager to discover it," and to be 
the first to plant the cross upon its shores. They 
were very nearly deprived of the honor of first reaching 
it, however, by the ambitious Sieur de La Salle, who 
believed its course lay toward the Red Sea — by which 
name the Gulf of California was then known — and 
who was willing to put his entire fortune into an 
expedition for its discovery; but by a complication of 
events, his plans failed, and he returned without 
having accomplished his purpose. By the time he 
prepared for a second expedition, the Jesuits had 
explored more than a thousand miles of the river, had 
sown the first seeds of their religion along its shores, 
and had become convinced that its course lay in the 
direction of the Gulf of Mexico, and not, as was 
supposed, in the direction of the Pacific. 

The two men who had been chosen by the Canadian 
officials to conduct this enterprise were singularly 
fitted for the service, and in their different roles of 
explorer and missionary are admirable examples of 
the courage and loyalty which characterized the early 
pioneer. 

Father James Marquette, the elder of the two. 



76 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

was born in 1637, in tlie picturesque old cathedral 
town of Laon, about ninety miles northeast of the 
French capital. Here, under the gentle guidance of 
his mother and the Church, he received that early 
training which influenced him, at the age of seven- 
teen, to renounce the world and attach himself to the 
order of the Jesuits. 

Twelve years were spent in the quiet pursuits of 
teaching and study, and then, eager to follow the 
example of his patron saint. Frauds Xavier, whose 
life and death among the half -civilized nations of the 
Orient had deeply impressed him, he was given an 
opportunity to follow his bent by being transferred 
from the province of Champagne, which contained 
no foreign mission, to that of France. In 1GG6, he 
sailed for Canada, full of enthusiasm for the noble 
cause which he had espoused, and buoyant with life 
and health. His inclination toward an active career 
was doubtless inherited from his soldier and statesmen 
ancestors, who were ever ready to defend their country 
and their King, and whose loyal services were among 
the proudest records of Laon. In this country the 
name is also deserving of honor, not only for the 
sake of the priest-explorer, but because of the enlist- 
ment of three Marquettes in the cause of American 
independence. 

At the time of Marquette^s arrival at Quebec, the 
mission fields of the New World were greatly in need 
of reinforcements, and the sight of this earnest 
young Jesuit must have been encouraging to the good 
Vicar Apostolic, Francis de Laval, who, since his 
appointment as bishop of Petrea, had labored unceas- 
ingly to establish order in his outlying stations, and 
who wished to extend the influence of the Church to 



MARQUETTE AND JOLTET. 77 

the more distant tribes. Filled with the zeal which 
has ever characterized the members of the Society of 
Jesus^ he longed to penetrate the Great West him- 
self^ and to plant the cross in its wildest haunts. 
This wish he could not realize; but he was none the 
less ambitious in appointing others to the work. He 
soon sent Marquette with Father Druilletes to study 
the Montagnais language, which was a key to the 
others, that the young man might be prepared for 
the mission of Tadoussac, which was first planned for 
him; but his field was changed, and he was ordered 
in 1668 to the Ottawa mission on Lake Superior. 

Starting from Quebec, on the twenty-first of April, 
with three companions, Marquette was joined by a 
party of Nezperces, with whom he began the journey 
up the Saint Lawrence and through the lakes; invoking 
the protection of the Virgin Mary, whom he wor- 
shiped with the simple devotion of a child, and, 
under her guidance, reaching his distant station of 
Ste. Marie du Sault. 

It is impossible to mistake the sincerity of Mar- 
quette^s character. Possessed of an imaginative and 
gentle nature, he gave all of his energies to his holy 
calling, and combined in his own person the sturdy 
qualities of the explorer with the ideal virtues of the 
saint. In his lonely home on Lake Superior he 
labored unceasingly, instructing first the Algonquins 
at Ste. Marie^s, and later, at Lapointe, the Hurons and 
Ottawas, who had been driven westward by the 
vengeful Iroquois; writing to his superior at Quebec 
of the progress he was making, and the difficulties 
which confronted him, and, with all his Christian 
labors, learning the languages of the tribes who fre- 
quented the region of the northern lakes. 



78 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

Through the intercourse which frequent contact 
with the visiting tribes thus brought about, Mar- 
quette first began to entertain the hope of some day 
leaving his mission in other hands, and of carrying 
out his favorite wish — to see the Mississippi, and to 
convert the tribes upon its shores. While at Ste. 
Marie^s he had heard from the Sioux of the Great 
River, and again at Saint Ignace — by which name the 
mission at Michilimackinac was known — the Illinois 
brought him word of the stream into which their 
river found its way. 

For a time it seemed that his wish could not be 
realized. The Hurons and Ottawas became involved 
in a quarrel with the Sioux, and were again obliged 
to flee from their angry neighbors. Each tribe 
sought a different retreat — the Ottawas going to the 
Island of Manataulin followed by Father Louis Andre, 
while the Hurons took up their abode at Michili- 
mackinac, whither Father Marquette accomj)anied 
them. To one less strong of purpose, this new field 
would have been discouraging, but with unfailing 
patience he erected a chapel and established a mission 
upon the bleak coast, which later became an impor- 
tant point for the Indians returning from their hunt- 
ing excursions. Meanwhile, events were culminating 
at Quebec in such a way as to bring Marquette to a 
speedy realization of his hopes. 

It was the policy of the French to explore and 
occupy the interior of the country as rapidly as 
possible, and to this end the Governor was seeking 
competent men to carry on the enterprise. The 
influence of the Jesuits was strong at that time, and 
therefore the choice of emissaries under their patron- 
age would naturally follow. Probably for this reason 



MARQUETTE AN"D JOLIET. 79 

the intend an t^ Talon, before leaving the colony, 
recommended Lonis Joliet for the discovery of the 
Mississippi, although Joliet had proven himself worthy 
of the project, and was a man of wide experience. 
The choice of the one who was to accompany him 
fell to Marquette, on account of his familiarity with 
the Indians and their language, and of his knowledge 
of the country, and also, it may be supposed, in 
acknowledgment of his zealous labors in the remote 
missions of the West. To him the appointment meant 
the crowning of his life work; the golden oppor- 
tunity for which he had waited; and if ambition for 
his Order entered somewhat into his thoughts, it was 
a pardonable ambition, in which self-glory bore K 
very small, and the salvation of a heathen race a 
very large, part. 

As to Joliet, very little has been found concerning 
his early career beyond a few distinct facts, and the 
detailed record of his life only begins with the expe- 
dition to the Mississippi in company with Marquette. 
This omission in the old manuscripts has been a 
source of regret to American historians, who would 
have taken some pride in writing the biography of an 
explorer born in their own country. To the efforts 
of Mr. Shea we are indebted for nearly all of the 
information that has been gained concerning him. 

Born in 1645 in Quebec, then a great stronghold 
of the Jesuits, he was early placed under their in- 
struction, and determined to become a priest. At 
seventeen he received the minor orders, and at twenty- 
one excited the admiration of his superiors by his 
intelligent reasoning in the philosophical discussions 
inaugurated by the sages of the colony. His real 
province, though, was soon found to be widely different 



80 EAKLY EXPLORERS. 

from that of his brother priests^ and, becoming con- 
vinced that his inclinations were antagonistic to his 
office, he soon renounced his vows and took up the 
practical occupation of a fur trader, remaining, how- 
ever, partial to the order which he had left. His keen 
intelligence and natural hardihood rendered him great 
assistance in his roving tours over the country, and 
he became valuable to the authorities in Quebec as 
an explorer. Talon sent him, in 1669, with Pere, to 
search for and report upon the copjoer mines of Lake 
Superior; and although the expedition was a failure, 
he had made careful maps of the route passed over, 
and by them was able to offer suggestions to Pollier 
and his companions, whom, with La Salle, he met at 
the head of Lake Ontario, bent upon ''exploring the 
mystery of the great unknown River of the West." 

La Salle and the priests soon separated; the latter 
taking the route which Joliet had indicated, in order 
to visit those tribes which he had described as being 
sadly in need of their assistance, while the former, 
prevented from carrying out his plans for reaching 
the Mississippi, was obliged to postpone his under- 
taking and return to Canada. 

As late as 1673 no important move had been made 
toward the interesting interior, so that the appoint- 
ment in that year of Marquette and Joliet to search 
out the unknown river meant a new era in the his- 
tory of American exploration. 

Having accepted the resjDonsibility of the expedi- 
tion, Joliet started in the autumn to meet his fellow 
voyager, reaching the mission of Saint Ignace on the 
festival of the Immaculate Conception, a time singu- 
larly happy to Marquette, who wrote in his journal: 
^' The day of the Immaculate Conception of the 



MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 81 

Blessed Virgin Mary whom I have always invoked, 
since I have been in this country, to obtain of God 
the grace to be able to visit the nations on the River 
Mississippi, was identically that on which M. Joliet 
arrived with orders of the Comte de Frontenac, our 
Governor, and M. Talon, our intendant, to make this 
discovery with me. I was the more enraptured at 
this good news, as I saw my designs on the point of 
being accomplished, and myself in the happy necessity 
of exposing my life for the salvation of all these 
nations, and particularly the Illinois, who had, when 
I was at Lapointe du Saint Esprit, very earnestly 
entreated me to carry the word of God to their 
country." This entry, as indeed his entire journal, 
shows the enthusiasm that burned in the soul of Mar- 
quette for the uplifting of the heathen nations among 
whom he had chosen to pursue his life work. 

As for Joliet, he had become greatly interested in 
the Eiver Mississippi while on his western hunting 
excursions, during which he received glowing 
accounts of it from the Indians. It was his ambi- 
tion to reach it, and, as he had promised Frontenac, 
" to see its mouth "; yet notwithstanding the eager- 
ness of both men, it was deemed prudent to devote 
the winter months to investigation, that " if the 
enterprise were hazardous," as Marquette says, '^it 
should not be foolhardy." They accordingly ques- 
tioned all Indians who had any knowledge of the 
region, and with information gathered from personal 
observation mapped out the route, and the tribes 
they were likely to encounter. In the spring their 
plans were matured, and, devoutly placing themselves 
under the protection of the " Blessed Virgin Immac- 
ulate," they began their journey on the seventeenth 

6 



82 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

of May, letting their paddles '' play joyously over a 
part of Lake Huron and that of the Illinois — Lake 
Michigan — into the Bay of the Fetid," according to 
Marquette's sprightly account. 

Following the northern shore of Lake Michigan 
until it turns southward, they coasted on down to 
the inlet now known as Green Bay; then into a small 
tributary stream, reaching the village of the Menom- 
onees, or " Wild Rice," Indians, where they were 
seriously cautioned against going farther. In vain 
these superstitious children of the forest sought to 
dissuade their white brothers. Marquette paid no 
heed to their stories, assuring them that he and the 
Sieur Joliet could protect themselves, and that he 
must not turn back when there were souls to save. 

At the head of Green Bay the travelers were wel- 
comed by Fathers Allouez and Dablon, who had been 
laboring among the savage tribes of that region 
for tliree years, in an attempt to convert them to 
Christianity. 

Father Allouez had bravely entered the field in 
1669 to found the mission of Saint Francis Xavier, 
where he was joined the next year by his brother mis- 
sionary. Together they had visited the villages of 
the Pottawattamies, Winnebagoes, Sacs, Mascoutins, 
Miamis, Kickapoos, and Foxes, who lived in what 
Dablon enthusiastically called " an earthly paradise," 
and from them they also heard of the Great Eiver, 
which rose far in the north, and which they had 
hoped some day to see. With the natural sympathy 
of men of broad purpose and brave deeds, they now 
rejoiced with their more fortunate brothers, who 
were about to realize a kindred wish; and with every 
encouragement saw the«:i again on their way. 



MAEQUETTE A:N'D JOLIET. 83 

The voyagers now paddled into Fox River, finding 
it easy of access near its mouth, but farther up, where 
they were obliged to get into the water and carry the 
boats, its stones and pebbly bottom made their 
passage difficult. Reading the narrative at this 
point, one fancies that Father Marquette and his 
sturdy com23anion must have enjoyed their journey 
with the relish of a modern canoeist; forgetting for 
the moment the perils of travel in the midst of savage 
tribes, and only realizing the beauties about them. 
For two hundred and sixty miles they followed this 
stream, noticing as they passed along the changes of 
scene, and stopping near tlie village of the Mas- 
coutins *'^to drink the mineral waters." At Mas- 
coutins itself, we have, through Marquette's journal, 
a picturesque view of an Indian village, built on an 
eminence overlooking the river; with a great cross 
in the midst of its lodges, hung with colored skins 
and bows and arrows as a thank offering to the great 
Manitou, who had given them an abundance of game 
during the winter, when a famine had been expected. 

Soon after disembarking here, Marquette and 
Joliet called the chiefs about them to explain the 
reason of their journey, and to ask for guides, as 
they would soon reach unfamiliar streams. Their 
request was quickly granted, for the Miamis, who 
belonged to the head tribe of the town, were very 
friendly with the French. 

The route beyond was through the unknown coun- 
try, for exploration had ceased at Mascoutins, and 
the only information that had been gained concern- 
ing it was from Indian descriptions, with which con- 
siderable superstition had been mingled. 

At the head of the Upper Fox River the Frenchmen 



84 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

left the waters on which they had come from Que- 
bec^ and making a portage, with the assistance of 
their Miami guides, were soon launched upon the 
broad stream of the Wisconsin. Their anxiety to 
reach the Great Eiver now filled their thoughts and 
hurried their paddles, as they glided down the sandy 
channel, past bar and island and forest-covered bank. 

With feelings of mingled pride and gratitude the 
brave men approached the goal of their hopes, and, 
again quoting the simple but forcible words of the 
missionary, they " safely entered the Mississippi on 
the seventeenth of June, with a joy that he could not 
express. ^^ Evidently, from Marquette's preliminary 
description of the river, the Indians from whom he 
received his information had a very good idea of its 
features, for he speaks of the lakes from which it 
had its source in the North. 

It is a characteristic of the Indian that he has very 
accurate ideas of location; often exerting his faculty 
in this direction to a remarkable degree; and if given 
materials, will map out familiar localities with an 
exactness which has often been of the greatest service 
to his white brothers. In changing his abode to meet 
the exigencies of summer and winter, this trait 
becomes almost an instinct. 

After having gone more than three hundred miles 
without meeting anything more startling than the 
timid denizens of forest and prairie, the travelers 
were filled with apprehension. At every turn, they 
expected to come upon hostile natives or to be over- 
whelmed by them in ambush; and the greatest care 
was taken to prevent surprise. In the evening a 
small fire was made on the shore, where their food 
was prepared; but this was left as darkness came on. 



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86 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

and a safer shelter found in the boats moored far out 
in the stream, from whose silent retreat a sentinel 
always kept guard. In this way they pursued 
their course for some time; but on the twenty-fifth of 
June, while passing closely to the shore, footprints 
were discovered on the sand, from which a path was 
seen to extend over the prairie. This the explorers 
determined to follow, leaving the boats in charge of 
their men and warning them to be on the lookout. 

Realizing the danger to which they were exposed, 
Marquette and Joliet advanced in silence until within 
sight of the Indian village whither the path led; 
then, recommending themselves to the protection of 
Heaven, made their presence known by crying out 
with all their strength. At this the Indians rushed 
from their cabins in consternation, but perceiving 
the peaceful intent of the strangers, they made no 
attempt to prevent their approach. Four old men 
were sent out to greet them, bearing aloft the calu- 
met — their universal emblem of good-will — and when 
they had come within a few paces of the Frenchmen, 
Marquette began the parley by asking the Indians 
who they were. To the surprise and pleasure of 
their visitors they replied that they were Illinois, and 
in token of peace offered their pipes, at the same 
time inviting the strangers to their village. 

The reception which Marquette and his companion 
received at the hands of this friendly tribe is strongly 
characteristic of Indian customs, and of their fond- 
ness for a certain savage formality. Seeing the black 
gown of the priest, which even then had become a 
truce through the faithful exertions of the earlier 
evangelists, the two explorers were welcomed to the 
village and escorted to the tent of one of the chiefs. 



MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 87 

At his door that august personage appeared entirely 
naked^ that lie might, according to his heathen 
notions, show the greater respect for his guests; and 
lifting his hands as if to shield his face, cried out, 
'^How bright is the sun, Frenchmen, when you 
come to visit us ! " then, standing aside, he bade them 
enter his tent. Within, a curious and silent assem- 
blage confronted them, from whose midst, now and 
then, came the reassuring ejaculation, uttered in their 
low guttural, " Well done, brothers, to visit us!" 

After observing the ceremony of smoking the cal- 
umet, a universal token of peace among the Indians, 
the Frenchmen were invited to visit the great sachem, 
whose town lay a short distance beyond. A crowd of 
curious Indians followed them, resorting to the most 
ludicrous methods in order to get a good look at their 
white brothers, and the scene described by Mar- 
quette is extremely amusing. '' They threw them- 
selves on the grass by the wayside, they ran ahead, 
they turned and walked back to see us again," he 
writes, and ^^all this was done without noise and with 
marks of a great respect entertained for us." 

Thus escorted, they made their way to the chief, 
and were in turn welcomed by him with the usual 
demonstrativeness of the race. He had, besides, a 
reason for being on good terms with the French, as the 
Illinois nation were then the direct objects of Iroquois 
wrath — owing to a complicated rivalry in connection 
with the fur trade — and were in need of an alli- 
ance with Canada. To be skeptical, therefore, the ex- 
tent of the chief ^s personal regard might be questioned. 
He tried to dissuade his guests, in the name of all the 
Illinois, from going farther on their perilous mission, 
recounting the dangers to which they would be 



88 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

exposed, and putting forth all liis Indian eloquence in 
their interest; but Marquette answered that he feared 
nothing, and that he would gladly risk his life in the 
service of the Great Spirit; an assertion which he 
believed beyond the comprehension of his hearers, 
although he must have had abundant proof of their 
own capacity for self-sacrifice and loyalty. 

On the next day, at three o'clock in the afternoon, 
Marquette and Joliet, having rejoined their men, 
embarked in the presence of six hundred Illinois, 
who had assembled to give them farewell. 

Passing slowly down the river, the explorers 
stopped occasionally to notice the rare plants and 
fruits which grew upon the banks, and to enjoy the 
beauties of a scene which even now enchants the 
beholder. 

A surprise met them in their peaceful descent, and 
turned their contemplation of nature to the arts of 
man. On the high rocks which overhung the stream, 
some original Indian had skillfully painted two fig- 
ures, which, from Marquette's account, must have 
been the artist's conception of Matcha Manitou, or 
the Evil One. The terrible aspect of these monsters 
made a deep impression upon the good priest, who 
says they were so well painted that he could not 
believe the work done by an Indian, and for whose 
awe-inspiring effect he vouched by saying that "the 
boldest Indian" dared not gaze too long upon them. 

While still talking of the strange impression the 
Manitou s had exerted over them, the little party of 
men were suddenly aware of another surprise in their 
way. They were coming within the disturbing influ- 
ence of the muddy Missouri, which, pouring its full 
flood into the main stream, seemed almost to threaten 



MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 89 

destruction to the frail fleet. Here the Indians 
described the coarse of the great tributary of the 
Mississippi, and suggested a route through its chan- 
nel by which the Gulf of California might be reached 
indirectly; a course since found to be practicable by 
topographical surveys. This suggestion aroused Mar- 
quette's love of adventure and missionary zeal, and 
he wrote if God would give him strength he would 
^'^not despair of one day making its discovery. '^ 

A tew days later the mouth of the Ohio, or "beau- 
tiful river," was reached, upon whose banks dwelt 
the peaceable Shawnees, fugitives from the unpro- 
voked assaults of the Iroquois. 

The travelers now became exposed to the attacks of 
the merciless mosquito, which proved to have no more 
reverence for a black gown than for any other garb. 

Marquette, appreciating the cleverness of the In- 
dians, describes their methods of defense in dealing 
with the "little animals," as he calls them. "They 
raise a scaffolding," he says, "the floor of which is 
made of simple poles, and consequently a mere grate- 
work to give passage to the smoke of a fire which 
they build beneath. The Indians sleep on the poles, 
having pieces of bark stretched above them to keep 
off the rain." By following this example as far as 
their limited means would allow, the Frenchmen 
improvised a screen out of their sails, and, thus pro- 
tected, kept their way down to the warmer cli- 
mates. 

Below the Ohio they came to an Indian village, and, 
anticipating trouble, Marquette held up his safe- 
guard, the handsome calumet presented by the great 
sachem of the Illinois. For an instant it seemed 
that their friendly sign was disregarded, and Mar- 



90 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

quette's quick ear caught what he believed to be the 
word of battle; but it proved to be an invitation to 
land, which was gladly accepted by the fatigued and 
famished travelers, who were later treated to buffalo- 
steak, beards oil, and white plums. 

Upon receiving the joyful assurance that they were 
now only ten days^ journey from the Gulf, the party 
again resumed their way, no longer content to glide 
on at the will of the current, but with vigorous pad- 
dle-strokes pushing their canoes forward. Down 
they sped between the solitary banks, for nearly three 
hundred miles, until they reached the village of 
Mitchigamea, where their right of way was for the 
first time seriously questioned. 

Seeing the men on shore running back and forth 
brandishing their weapons, the terrified voyageurs 
committed themselves to the protection of Heaven, 
and with abated breath held the canoes in mid- 
stream while Marquette exposed the peaceful talis- 
man. Its magic effect appeared to fail with the 
threatening warriors, who now pushed out into the 
water in their canoes, or swam toward the fleet with 
uplifted clubs. At this moment the older warriors 
appeared upon the scene, and, noticing the peace- 
pipe, averted the danger just when the party had 
given up hope. They asked the strangers ashore, 
treated them with surprising hospitality, and invited 
them to stay over night, an invitation which was 
accepted, as Marquette says, ^^not without some 
uneasiness." Besides this, they found it difficult to 
make each other understood, as the Indians did not 
speak any of the languages with which Marquette 
and Joliet were familiar; but at last resorting to 
signs, and the aid of an Indian among them who 



MARQUETTE AND JOLTET. 91 

could speak a little Illinois, tliey told the Frenchmen 
that they could obtain all the information they desired 
at the next village below. Early the following morn- 
ing, therefore, they launched their canoes, and, with 
some relief, started on their way toward Akamsea 
— Arkansas — accompanied by ten of their late enter- 
tainers, and the Illinois interpreter. 

When within a mile and a half of their destination 
two canoes were seen approaching, in one of which 
stood a chief holding the calumet, and singing an In- 
dian song of peace. These preliminaries over, the fore- 
most canoe was turned about to guide the visitors to the 
town. Here Marquette and Joliet were royally re- 
ceived, and as soon as ceremony allowed, and the priest 
had made his usual exhortation, eager inquiry was 
made concerning the subject nearest their thoughts. 
How many days^ journey was it to the sea? and what 
did the men of Akamsea know of the river beyond? 

They were told that ten days^ journey would bring 
them to the Gulf, but that the tribes below were 
unknown to them, since their enemies prevented any 
intercourse. They also warned the Frenchmen against 
exposing themselves to the attacks of their warlike 
neighbors, from whose depredations they had so often 
suffered. 

Soon after this friendly council the sachems came 
together and deliberated upon the destruction of their 
guests, whom they had seemed but a short time before 
to regard with so much solicitude; but the chief be- 
came aware of their movements and prevented vio- 
lence; further proving his protection by dancing the 
calumet and presenting the pipe to the priest at its 
conclusion. 

Marquette and Joliet now met to discuss their 



9^ EARLY EXPLORERS. 

plans. They had heard of the Mexicans through the 
Indians, and believed it would be foolhardy to expose 
themselves to capture by the former — who looked upon 
their expedition as an encroachment — or to massacre 
by the latter, by further following the river, whose 
course they were now convinced lay toward the Gulf of 
Mexico. They argued that their lives were of value to 
their country, and that they had attained the object of 
their journey — namely, the discovery of the Missis- 
sippi, and the location of its mouth. Accordingly, 
they resolved to turn back, beginning the ascent of the 
river on the seventeenth of July, 1G73, and believing 
themselves within a short distance of the Gulf, al- 
though in reality it was some seven hundred miles 
below. 

Retracing their course up the Illinois, they en- 
countered near its head the friendly Kaskaskias, who 
begged Marquette to return to them, and instruct 
them in the Faith. This he promised to do, and, 
taking leave of them, he and his companions were 
escorted to Lake Michigan by a chief of the tribe, 
where they embarked for Green Bay. By September 
the mission of Saint Francis Xavier was reached, 
whence the expedition had started four months before. 

Joliet now took leave of his fellow traveler, and, 
with the maps and papers relating to their recent 
explorations, started for Quebec. Down through the 
lakes he hurried to bear the tidings of the successful 
enterprise to Frontenac and to seek his deserved 
reward; but the good fortune which had smiled upon 
him thus far now seemed suddenly to desert him. 
Just above Montreal his boat was capsized, his papers 
lost, and all that remained to him was his life, which, 
he wrote, he ardently desired to employ in any service 



MARQUETTE AN"D JOLIET. 93 

which his Excellency might please to direct; a loyal 
offer, and worthy a more generous acknowledgment 
than the Government deemed fit to give. 

After carefully drawing up a report from memory, 
Joliet again presented himself to the authorities at 
Quebec; but the Mississippi was not then of so much 
importance as Canadian affairs, and its exploration 
was not met with the enthusiasm that it would have 
received later. 

Upon failing to procure a grant from the King, of 
the countries which he had visited, Joliet next turned 
his attention to the Indian trade on Hudson Bay, and 
in this interest left Quebec in 1679. Here he found 
the English in undisturbed possession, and reported 
the case to the Canadian officials, which resulted in 
the establishment of competitive trading stations for 
the purpose of dispossessing the foreign rivals. This 
service was rewarded, and later Joliet received a grant 
of the Island of Anticosti, in consideration of his 
services on the Mississippi. Again in 1694, after 
exploring the coast of Labrabor, in the employ of a 
company interested in the whale and seal fisheries 
there, he was made royal pilot for the St. Lawrence 
and hydrographer at Quebec. Thus, rich in honors, 
the great explorer of the Mississippi passed his latter 
years, and was buried on one of his own Islands of 
Mignan, on the coast of Labrador, probably in 1700. 
His fellow traveler had, meanwhile, met his death in 
the lonely forests of Michigan, twelve hundred miles 
away. In fact, when the expedition to the Mississippi 
returned to Green Bay, Marquette was already suffer- 
ing from the malady which ultimately killed him, 
and which he had contracted from the exposure and 
hardships of the journey. 



94 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

During the autumn and winter he stayed at the 
mission to gain strength for his return to Kaskaskia^, 
where he hoped to found the mission of the Immacu- 
late Conception, and by October of the following 
year started out with a band of Illinois and Potta- 
wattamies and two Frenchmen, Pierre Porteret and 
Jacques , to fulfill his promise to the Illinois. 

The party paddled up the Bay to the northern end, 
and thence by portage gained Lake Michigan, which 
they reached in the stormy month of November. 
Cautiously skirting its western shore, they pushed 
their canoes into the Chicago River a month later, 
where Marquette again became prostrated, and was 
obliged to postpone his visit to Kaskaskia till the fol- 
lowing scoring. The Indians went on, but Pierre and 
Jacques built a small hut on the river bank, where 
game was abundant, and there they guarded their 
master till the snows were gone and the stream cleared 
of ice. 

Through all the bitterness of this winter in the 
wilderness Marquette suffered patiently the ravages 
of disease, but at last, despairing of his life, and 
unwilling to abandon his darling wish, he begged his 
companions to perform with him a novina, or nine 
days' devotion to the Virgin. At the end of this 
time he believed their prayers were answered, and by 
the thirtieth of March again undertook to reach 
Kaskaskia. The route thither was familiar to Mar- 
quette and one of his men, who had passed over it on 
their return to Green Bay; and, excepting the incon- 
venience caused by the freshets and the priest's 
physical condition, the journey was comparatively 
easy. 

When the party reached Kaskaskia the greatest joy 



MARQUETTE AND JOLIET. 95 

was manifested, and Marquette was urged to stay with 
the people and be their father; but he knew his days 
were numbered, and that what he had to do must be 
done quickly. He passed from lodge to lodge explain- 
ing the mysteries of his religion, and persuading his 
hearers by his own magnetic earnestness; and then, 
that he might more deeply influence their impres- 
sionable natures, called them to a great council in the 
open fields, where he made a final exhortation. 
Some four thousand souls listened to this appeal and 
received the first instruction in the Faith, which was 
kept alive there by Marquette's successors in the 
mission field of his founding. 

Now, satisfied that he had accomplished his pur- 
pose, and anxious to reach again the station of 
Michilimackinac, Marquette bade farewell to his 
Illinois children and started for Lake Michigan. On 
its waters the canoe was once more launched, in the 
presence of a faithful band which had followed him 
thither. 

Along the eastern border of the lake the solitary 
boat sped, urged on by the steady paddle strokes of 
Pierre and Jacques, who, seeing the emaciated form 
and failing strength of their dying master, attempted 
to reach Saint Ignace before it was too late. 

Their exertions were in vain. On the nineteenth 
of May, when they were yet many days' journey from 
their destination, Marquette, feeling his time was 
come, asked to be taken ashore. His companions, 
grief-stricken and disappointed, begged permission to 
hurry on to Michilimackinac; but Marquette could 
not mistake the approach of death, and with gentle 
firmness insisted that they stop at a place which he 
had pointed out, that he might be buried there. It 



96 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

was on the sloping bank of a small stream which 
poured its waters into the great lake from the east. 

Here the two men built a rude shelter of bark and 
laid the dying priest, receiving at his hands the sac- 
rament of penitence and making their last confession. 
Marquette in turn asked their forgiveness for the 
trouble he had caused them, and told them how 
grateful he was to be permitted to die as he had 
always wished, alone in the wilderness after the man- 
ner of Saint Francis Xavier. Then seeing that his 
friends were weary, he persuaded them to rest, telling 
them he would call when he needed them. Shortly 
after, they heard a feeble voice, and, overwhelmed with 
sadness, answered its summons. He asked that the 
crucifix which he had worn be held over him, and, 
placing his eyes on the sacred emblem, expired. 

The next year, 1676, a hunting party of Kiskakon 
Ottawas, whom the priest had once instructed, on 
passing his grave, reverently opened it, and, caring for 
the remains after their custom, bore them to Saint 
Esprit with all the ceremony observed at the funerals 
of their great chiefs; and so, honored by those for 
whom he had given his best energies, the priest- 
explorer found his final resting place. 

What Marquette accomplished as a missionary will 
be variously estimated, but what he and his fellow 
voyager Joliet accomplished in the field of early 
exploration can never be overestimated. They hold a 
place unchallenged in the history of the Mississippi, 
and honored by those who appreciate the heralds of 
civilization. 




CHAPTER VI. 

ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 

^0 one whose splendid ambition and un- 
failing patriotism won for him in his 
day only disappointment and the death- 
blow of the assassin^ impartial Time 
has meted out his sure reward; and the 
La Salle of two centuries ago, now 
stands a giant among the great explor- 
ers. He was one of those countless 
heralds who proclaimed the wonders of a New World; 
but pre-eminently alone in the brilliant planning 
which sought to make the '^'^New France" an added 
kingdom to the Old. Because then, he was not only 
the explorer but the man of thought, he has gained a 
loftier place among his fellows, and a truer claim to 
renown. 

As a school-boy of Rouen, where he was born in 
1643, the unusual traits of the later man began to 
attract the attention of his family, and he was given 
an education in accordance with the liberality of the 
Caveliers and his own capabilities; but the Order of 
the Jesuits, which had earlier appealed to him, 
became, as he reached manhood, an unbearable 
restraint; and throwing olf the irksome bonds — to- 
gether with his inheritance, which, according to a 
law of the Order, must be forfeited — the free-spirited 
La Salle obeyed his mastering impulse and sailed in 
1666 for Canada. 

7 (97) 



98 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

During the quiet years in France, when all his nat- 
ural love of action was confined within the chambers 
of his fertile brain, La Salle acquired his aptitude for 
great schemes; but conceiving them without the 
►power of putting them into effect gave him also that 
fatal lack of attention to detail which resulted in many 
an ultimate defeat. His broad mind could take in 
with quick perception vast enterprises of commerce 
and colonization in America, but repeated reverses 
and an untimely death prevented him from seeing 
their successful issue. With such abilities Eobert de 
La Salle entered the attractive boundaries of the New 
World. His elder brother. Abbe Jean Cavelier, of the 
Seminary of Saint Sulpice, belonged to an influential 
corporation which owned Montreal and a widespread- 
ing tract along the Saint Lawrence; and it was perhaps 
due to his influence that La Salle was offered gratui- 
tously, soon after his arrival, a large property about 
nine miles above the city for a settlement. The 
object of the priests in thus dealing out their lands 
was to establish a line of outposts along tlie river in 
front of their island, as a defense against Iroquois 
incursions. 

For its new proprietor the exposed position of this 
property had no terrors. He immediately began the 
building of his embryo village, hurrying up the pali- 
sades in anticipation of a surprise from the Indians, 
and marking out the twenty-acre farms beyond the 
defenses, which were offered on easy terms to those 
who would join his enterprise; while with the care of 
his new seigniory he threw himself into the study of 
Indian languages with a zeal which betokened design. 

From time to time straggling red meji were 
admitted within the joalisade to dispose of furs or to 



ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 99 

talk with the white chief; and as La Salle had a great 
influence over them, he heard many a story of the 
unknown lands to the west, and of the river that 
reached to the sea. The old idea of a route to China 
and Japan suggested itself to him and aroused his 
ambition. With characteristic dispatch, he went to 
Quebec to confer with the Governor, obtaining 
authority to carry on an expedition to the Great 
River, but no money to aid the enterprise. This 
lack of co-operation in funds did not deter the young 
explorer, however. He soon persuaded Qaeylus, tlie 
Superior of Saint Sulpice, to buy back part of his lands 
beyond Montreal, and the rest he was able to sell to 
a certain Jean Milot. With this he bought the 
necessary equipments and secured his men. 

Some time before this the Seminary had decided to 
send missionaries to the more western tribes, that the 
Jesuits might not overreach them in christianizing 
the heathen nations of the New World. Nor was this 
all. They saw that the rival Order, in penetrating 
the remote regions of the Northwest, would gain a 
foothold there which it would be difficult to sup- 
plant. For these reasons an expedition had been 
planned by them, and the leadership given to Dollier 
de Casson, a priest of Saint Sulpice. 

Greatly to La Sailers annoyance, the Governor urged 
that Dollier join him in the exploration of the Mis- 
sissippi, and as the young man was somewhat 
indebted to the Seminary and to Oourcelles, he could 
offer no protest. Consequently, on the sixth of July, 
1669, the two parties left the little settlement beyond 
Montreal, to begin the difficult ascent of the Upper 
Saint Lawrence. A party of Seneca Iroquois took the 
lead^ and were to guide the expedition to the Ohio, 



100 EARLY EXPLOEERS. 

which they had told La Salle reached to the sea; but 
instead of going directly to the river according to 
agreement, the dissimulating Indians went to their 
own village near the Genesee; telling the white men 
they would find other guides there. La Salle was not 
sufficiently familiar with the Iroquois language to 
make a personal appeal, and the expedition was 
delayed; but there happened to be an Indian from a 
neighboring tribe present at the time, who offered 
to take the party to his own village, promising to find 
some one there to act as guide. This offer was 
accepted, and again the march was resumed. A 
Shawnee prisoner was at last secured, who said he 
could reach the Ohio in six weeks; but just as prep- 
arations were being made to start out, news came 
that two Frenchmen had arrived at the next village. 
They proved to be Joliet and Pere, recently sent by 
Talon to look for the copper mines of Lake Superior. 
Joliet had mapped out the route he had taken, and, 
giving D oilier a duplicate of this, told him of the 
tribes about the upper lakes who were sadly in need 
of spiritual guidance. The priest immediately re- 
solved to follow these suggestions, although La Salle 
reminded him that the Jesuits were already in the 
field; but Dollier was not to be dissuaded, and he be- 
lieved, moreover, that this change of plan would not 
interfere with the intended exploration of the Mis- 
sissippi. La Salle, unwilling to follow this lead, 
and determined to carry out his own plans, in his 
own way, no doubt urged his weak physical condition 
as a pretext for separating from the Sulpitians. At 
any rate, Dollier soon started on his fruitless mission 
northward, while La Salle remained behind in the 
Indian village. 



ROBERT CAYELIER DE LA SALLE. 101 

From all that has been found relating to the next 
two years, it is evident that La Salle was unable to 
reach the Mississippi; but during that time he un- 
doubtedly made the discovery of the Ohio, and carried 
on extensive explorations in other quarters. Unfor- 
tunately, the only record that remains of this part of 
his career is an anonymous manuscript of somewhat 
doubtful accuracy, supposed to have been written 
from conversations with La Salle himself, and from 
which Francis Parkman, with careful explanations, 
has made a few extracts in his ^' Discovery of the 
Great West." These relate simply to his explorations 
on the Ohio and Illinois rivers, and to his voyage 
through the lakes. Reference is also made to the 
statement that La Salle, in descending the Illinois, 
reached a river corresponding in description to the 
Mississippi, which he is said to have followed as far 
as the thirty-sixth degree of latitude, becoming con- 
vinced that it emptied into the Gulf of Mexico; and 
which, the anonymous writer continues, he intended 
to further explore when equipped in such a way as to 
make it practicable. This seems to admit of ques- 
tion. If La Salle had made such a discovery, it is 
not likely that he would have remained silent in 
regard to it when Frontenac appointed Joliet for that 
service; nor that, being on the most friendly terms 
with the Governor, he should have made no immediate 
mention of it. 

This doubtful period over, La Salle again emerges 
into the full light of authentic history, and we find 
him at Quebec discussing his plans with Frontenac. 
These plans were concerning the settlement of the 
Great West, and the development of commerce along\ 
the Mississippi. He saw that delay would be fatal to 



102 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

the interests of France, and he therefore made arrange- 
ments to confer with the King that he might obtain 
his approval and aid. Frontenac, f^^Hy in sympathy 
with his jDrojects, was unable to give more than his 
hearty recommendation; but this had its value, and 
La Salle started for France bearing the most flatter- 
ing letters from him. 

Once at court, there was mo difficulty in gaining 
attention, and Louis, recognizing the ability and zeal 
of his young petitioner, soon became interested in his 
schemes. La Salle returned to Canada with a patent 
of nobility in consideration of recent explorations, 
and with a grant of a fort at the head of Lake 
Ontario which he afterward named for Frontenac, 
and which, by its favorable position for the fur trade, 
would aid him in many an enterprise. 

Carefully guarding every interest. La Salle now 
began to make improvements upon the fort, replac- 
ing Frontenac's hurriedly constructed buildings and 
palisades with stone, and having a few heavy boats 
built; for where the light Indian canoe had formerly 
been a convenience in making the frequent journeys 
up and down the river and through the lakes, when 
very little freight was carried, larger craft would 
now be indispensable. This done. La Salle again went 
to France to report to the minister and to receive a 
further sanction to his explorations. These he in- 
tended to prosecute on the Mississippi with a view to 
opening a direct route to France; thus to throw into 
her ports the monopoly of furs furnished by the great 
western hunting grounds of America, and to found a 
chain of commercial villages along its banks. He 
asked, besides, the privilege of holding exclusive right 
to the trade in buffalo skins. These petitions were 



ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 103 

favoraoly received by Colbert, and in addition large 
sums of money were advanced by his relatives. Men 
were engaged and the necessary supplies procured, 
and with these. La Salle again returned to Canada. 
On the way over he became acquainted with his new 
lieutenant, Henri de Tonty, who had been recom- 
mended to him during his brief stay in France, by the 
Prince de Conti, as a man in every respect worthy of 
confidence. La Salle, with keen discrimination, soon 
recognized this, and, himself possessed of rare per- 
sonal qualities, easily made him his friend. He wrote 
back to the Prince extolling Tonty^s ^Hionorable 
character and amiable disposition," and referred to 
his hardihood in starting out to begin a fort at 
Niagara at a season when any but him would have 
hesitated. 

« 

The building of this fort was a triumph for La 
Salle, and he had made no small effort toward its 
accomplishment. To this end he had encouraged La 
Motte to negotiate with the chief of the Senecas. 

His lieutenant was, in a measure, successful; but 
La Salle, understanding the value of the full and 
friendly approval of the Iroquois, and confident of 
securing a personal favor, had stopped on his way up 
from Fort Frontenac to ratify La Motte's transac- 
tions, and had gained permission from the reluctant 
Indians to build a vessel above the falls for naviga- 
tion on the upper lakes. An unimpeded way to suc- 
cess was now opened, and La Salle hastened to for- 
mulate his plans. Misfortune, however, met him at 
the very start. When he and Tonty reached the gar- 
rison at Niagara, they found that the boat bringing 
supplies, on which they had come part of the way, 
had been wrecked within nine or ten leagues of its 



104 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

destination and all the provisions lost, the crew being 
able to save only the anchor and cables for the new 
vessel. 

This loss placed La Salle in an unpleasant predica- 
ment. His men, but half-hearted in their devotion 
to his interest, and disaffected by his enemies, were 
ready to desert upon the slightest provocation. At 
this crisis he immediately prepared to return to Fort 
Frontenac for provisions, leaving Tonty in command, 
and relying upon his Mohican hunter to supply the 
men with game during his absence. Nothing daunted, 
he began the two hundred and fifty mile journey over 
the midwinter snows on foot, only to find, u^^on 
reaching the fort, that the greater share of his prop- 
erty had been seized by over-anxious creditors, and his 
reputation injured by jealous enemies; but he still 
had friends, and these again came to his assistance. 
When at last he reached Niagara, after an absence of 
nearly six months, he found his new boat, the 
"Griffin,^^ finished, and his men, under Tonty^'s 
guardianshi]), still committed to his service. The 
commander returned, affairs were quickly arranged at 
the fort, the '^'^ Griffin" was towed up stream, and the 
entire company boarded her on the seventh of August, 
1679; sang the Te Deum, fired a salute, and set the 
sails for the eventful voyage across Lake Erie, whose 
waters had never before borne more than the fairy 
weight of an Indian canoe. Reaching the strait of 
Detroit, they passed between the forest-fringed banks 
and then out into the sparkling lake, which, in 
crossing, they called Sainte Claire; moving again 
through the narrowed outlet until it brought them 
upon the broad expanse of Lake Huron. 

When the boat was well under way, promising a 



ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 105 

speedy journey to Micliilimackinac, a furious gale 
overtook her, and for a time caused the greatest excite- 
ment among her passengers. La Salle encouraged 
the men to ask the aid of Heaven, and '^all fell to 
their prayers, but the godless pilot, who was loud in 
complaint against his commander for having brought 
him, after the honor he had won on the ocean, 
to drown at last ignominiously in fresh water." 

With the abating of the tempest the clamor ceased, 
and the "Griffin" again moved forward over the 
becalmed lake. 

Fresh trouble awaited La Salle at Saint Ignace. He 
found that the advance ]3arty which he had sent on to 
trade for him had deserted, and that the aid which he 
had expected from this quarter was not to be realized. 
He was able to secure a small cargo of furs, and this 
he sent back to satisfy his creditors in Canada, charg- 
iug the pilot to return as soon as he had fulfilled the 
commission, and meet him at the mouth of the Saint 
Josej^h. Meanwhile, La Salle, with fourteen men 
and four canoes, heavily laden, started down Lake 
Michigan toward the rendezvous, every mile of the 
way being contested by the stormy elements. When 
at last they reached the Kiver Saint Joseph, the men, 
half-starved and weary, urged that the expedition 
move on to the village of the Illinois, where they 
would find shelter and jirovisions; but La Salle had 
told Tonty to meet him at this place after his journey 
to Saint Mary's, and therefore he would not leave. 
Instead, he put the men to work on a fort to divert 
their minds, and stolidly waited. At the end of three 
weeks Tonty came, bringing only half his men, the 
others having stopped by the way for food and rest. 
Soon afterward they came up with the party, and on 




WM Tacaogane 



R:,. MC N>^* CO-.|Enc' 



EARLY MAP OF THE ILLINOIS. 
(106) 



ROBERT CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. 107 

the third of December all started up the Saint 
Joseph. 

La Sailers Mohican had remained a little behind 
the others, and when the expedition had reached the 
point where the portage was supposed to be, they 
were unable to discover it. La Salle went ashore to 
search for it, and while wandering through the 
forest lost his way. Night came and with it a light 
snow. Hurrying forward, with the hope of coming 
upon his party, he reached the river and fired his 
gun as a b.ignal. Receiving no answer, he continued 
along the shore, where he saw a short distance beyond 
a fire in the brush. Supposing this to be the bivouac 
of his men he hastened toward it, but found to his 
surprise that the spot was deserted. Near the fire 
was a couch of dry grass, still warm, and bearing the 
impress of a recent occupant, but no answer came to 
his call although he used all of the Indian languages 
at his command. To follow Parkman's description, 
"La Salle then, with admirable coolness, took posses- 
sion of the quarters he had found, shouting to their 
invisible proprietor that he was about to sleep in his 
bed; piled a barricade of bushes around the spot, 
rekindled the dying fire, warmed his benumbed hands, 
stretched himself on the dry grass, and slept undis- 
turbed till morning." When he reached his party 
the Mohican had already found the portage, and 
preparations were immediately begun to transport the 
baggage to the Kankakee. On this stream they 
began the journey down to the Illinois, reaching at 
last the long-wished-for lodges where they were to 
find food and shelter. 

The Indians had not yet returned from the winter's 
hunt, and the encampment was deserted, but La 



108 EAKLT EXPLORERS. 

Salle's men found the pits in which the provisions 
were stored, and from these a quantity of corn was 
taken, the intention being to meet the Indians on 
their return and recompense them for their intru- 
sion. Having thus satisfied their hunger, the party 
pushed forward, reaching Peoria Lake on the third 
of January, 1680. Just below here they came in 
sight of the Illinois camp. La Salle had been warned 
by the Outagamies whom he met on Lake Michigan 
to beware of these, as they were angered with the 
French, believing they had incited the Iroquois 
against them. He had also to appease them for the 
raid upon their corn-pits. It was therefore necessary 
to use the utmost caution in approaching them. The 
canoes were put in line, the men were told to drop 
the oars and take up their weapons, and thus formid- 
ably the little flotilla swept down to meet friend 
or foe. La Salle, closely followed by his men, leaped 
from his boat into the midst of the astonished 
Indians, who, convinced of his friendliness, soon laid 
aside their weapons. With his usual fearlessness he 
then harangued them, telling them if they would 
permit him to build a fort in their country as a defense 
against the Iroquois, that he would join them in 
resisting those enemies in case of attack. Explana- 
tions were made and payment offered for the corn, 
and, while asking favors, the intrepid La Salle 
appeared to be conferring benefits. The Illinois 
received his blandishments and threats as he intended 
they should, and the conference ended favorably for 
the Frenchmen. 

That same night, however, a Mascoutin chief, insti- 
gated by La Salle's enemies, came to the camp to 
tell the Indians in solemn council that their visitors 



ROBEET CAVELIER DE LA SALLE. .109 

were friends of the Iroquois, now on their way to the 
tribes beyond the Mississippi, whom they intended to 
stir up against the Illinois; and that if the Illinois 
wished to protect themselves they would soon be rid 
of them. La Salle was informed of the proceedings 
by a chief whose friendship he had won by generous 
gifts, and was thus enabled to meet the excuses which 
the Indians oifered on the following afternoon. The 
chiefs resorted to a very cunning method, as they 
thought, to dissuade the Frenchmen from going to 
the Great Eiver, telling them of terrible monsters, 
whirlpools, and rapids, in their way, but La Salle 
paid no heed to these fabrications, soon convincing 
the Indians of the friendliness of his visit. Some of 
his men fell into the snare laid for them, and, terrified 
by the lies invented to deceive them, deserted during 
the night, rather than risk the fancied dangers. 

La Salle now decided to pass the remainder of 
the winter in the Illinois country, that he might 
build a fort there, and be prepared for explo- 
ration on the Mississijopi in the spring. He se- 
lected a place of considerable strength, on a hill a short 
distance back from the river, and here palisades were 
thrown up and winter quarters provided. La Salle 
and Tonty occupied a plank cabin in the center of the 
inclosure, the priests were in another, and the men 
had their huts at the four angles. Thus sheltered 
from the cold, and protected from any sudden out- 
break of the Indians, the isolated party waited for the 
snows to disappear. 

As an expression of his sorrow at the continued round 
of disappointments which had followed him, La Salle 
gave this fort the name of Creve-coeur. Here circum- 
stances again obliged him to undertake a journey to 



110 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

Fort Frontenac, for nothing had been heard from the 
''Griffin'^ since she had left Michilimackinac, and it 
was now impossible to hope for her return. In her 
losS;, the ex^^lorer once more saw his plans defeated, 
for she was to have brought the chains and anchor for 
the new vessel in which he intended to make his 
journey down the Mississippi, and the provisions nec- 
essary to assure the services of his men. There was 
no alternative; La Salle must either return to Fort 
Frontenac or risk the failure of his enterprise. To 
him the latter course was impossible, and he quickly 
prepared for the perilous journey, seeing half the 
work done on the vessel before starting, lest the men 
should attempt to desert during his absence or refuse 
to undertake its building. He also commissioned 
Hennepin, much against the wishes of the priest, to 
take two men and explore the Illinois to its mouth, 
and thence to the headwaters of the Mississippi — a 
circumstance which has a significance; for, if La 
Salle was not aware of the previous expedition of 
Marquette and Joliet, as some writers affirm, it is not 
probable that he would have authorized Hennepin to 
make this journey; for, in that case, the honor of the 
discovery would be lost to him. Nor is it probable 
that, being, as he knew, within easy distance of the 
Great River, he should have betrayed so little eager- 
ness to reach it. In fact, corroborative evidence 
seems to show, without a doubt, that La Salle was 
perfectly familiar with the explorations of his prede- 
cessors, and that his aim was not to search out an 
unknown river, but to complete the work begun in 
1673. 



CHAPTER VII. 




LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 

^yT was just on the verge of spring, 1G81, 
when the streams were too full of ice 
to allow the passage of a canoe, and 
the ground too unstable for snow-shoes, 
that La Salle, with his Mohican and 
four others, began the trying journey 
from Fort Creve-coeur, on the Illinois, 
to Canada — the most arduous ever made by French- 
men in America. 

Through the dismal forests and over treacherous 
swamps the men made their way, braving the dangers 
of the wilderness and sturdily enduring the ills which 
exposure and hardship brought upon them. On 
Easter Monday they reached the Falls of Niagara, 
where La Salle learned that the '^Griffin" was indeed 
lost; that a ship laden with valuable supplies coming to 
him from France had foundered at the mouth of the 
Saint Lawrence, and that twenty men sent to his assist- 
ance from Europe had in one way or another become 
dispersed through the machinations of his enemies. 
At Fort Frontenac he found only stronger evidence of 
disaster; but pressing on to Montreal he succeeded in 
making good his losses and in convincing those who 
attempted to thwart him that he was superior to their 
efforts. 

In starting out with his fresh supplies for the Illi- 
nois country, the customary halt was made at the 

(111) 



112 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

f ort^ and here the unhappy news from Tonty awaited 
him. His men^ taking advantage of the temporary 
absence of his lieutenant, had mutinied, destroyed 
Fort Creve-coeur, and taking everything that was 
available had gone on to Fort Miami on the Saint 
Joseph to wage a similar destruction. At Michili- 
mackinac they had seized a quantity of furs belong- 
ing to La Salle, and again at Niagara had continued 
their robberies. Word was brought that they even 
intended to kill their late leader, and were on their 
way to carry out their sinister purj)ose; but such 
reverses only tended to strengthen La Sallals deter- 
mination and 230wers of endurance. He quickly and 
effectually dealt with the deserters, putting them into 
custody where they were to await the arrival of 
Frontenac, while he prepared to return to the Illinois 
country for the relief of Tonty and those who had 
remained with him. This time he took a new route, 
by way of the Humber, Lake Simcoe, the Severn and 
Georgian Bay, and thence to Michilimackinac; leav- 
ing his lieutenant La Forest at the latter place with 
half the men to attend to his business affairs, while he 
hurried southward. By chance Tonty and Father 
Membre were at the same time retreating from the 
dangerous battle-ground of the Iroquois and Illinois, 
and making their way to the mission at Green Bay. 

Having left a small detachment on the Saint Josej^h 
to wait for La Forest, La Salle anxiously pressed 
on to the Illinois, there to find the ghastly relics of 
war; and instead of the flourishing village which he 
had passed in the spring, desolated lodges and the hor- 
rid evidences of Indian vengeance. The thought of 
what might have befallen his friend gave him no 
rest, and with gloomy forebodings he continued his 



LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 113 

way down to the mouth of the river, finding all 
along the abandoned camp-fires of the Illinois in 
retreat, with those of their pursuers on the opposite 
bank, but no traces of those he sought. It was at 
this unfortunate moment that La Salle saw for the 
first time the Great River toward which his mind's 
eye had so often turned, and with whose future his 
thoughts had long been occupied. Even then he 
might have followed it to the sea, putting aside the 
search for his friends, and relying upon the support 
of the few men who had accompanied him to its 
shores, and who offered to make the journey with 
him; but he was too deeply concerned about Tonty, 
and too well satisfied with certain other plans to 
obey the temporary impulse, and therefore deter- 
mined to wait. On the return to the Saint Joseph 
some traces were found of the recent passage of white 
men, which assured La Salle that Tonty had escaped 
the Iroquois massacre; and he was further gratified 
to find that during his absence the men at Fort Mi- 
ami had repaired the injuries done by the deserters 
and had cleared a large tract of land for cultivation. 
Thus favored, he prepared to remain at the fort for 
the winter, in order to carry out his great scheme of 
alliance among the western tribes which the recent 
Iroquois invasion had made possible. It was his 
idea to conciliate the small tribes who had separated 
on account of slight grievances, and ally them, with 
the Illinois, to the French; nominally to resist their 
common enemy the Iroquois, but really to establish 
French interests and secure the western trade in furs. 
Having heard in the course of his travels of the 
safety of Tonty, La Salle sent La Forest on to Mich- 
ilimackinac to meet him and to await his own arrival 

8 



114 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

there; while he, in the meantime, continued his 
diplomatic mission among the red men. In these 
negotiations his remarkable influence with the Indi- 
ans gave him the advantage, and while he intimi- 
dated, persuaded and flattered, they regarded him 
with mingled admiration and fear. He accomplished 
all that he had desired, and then hastened to Michili- 
mackinac, where in the joy of meeting Tonty the 
habitual reserve of his calm nature for once broke its 
bonds. 

Tonty, and Father Membre who had been with him, 
had had a very trying and dangerous experience after 
leaving Fort Creve-coeur. They had gone wp the Illi- 
nois together to examine a hill which La Salle had 
suggested as a strong place in case of necessity, and 
during their absence the men at the fort deserted 
and the Iroquois war-party approached almost simul- 
taneously. The fancied presence of Frenchmen 
among the latter, due to the caprice of two Iroquois 
chiefs Avho had arrayed themselves in a few articles 
of European dress, placed Tonty and his companions 
in a delicate position with the Illinois, who suspected 
that they were being betrayed. The situation re- 
quired the utmost caution. Tonty stoutly denied 
the charge made against his countrymen, and to 
prove his honesty of design, offered to negotiate with 
the enemy. This offer was accepted with some sus- 
picion, but the volunteer was given a belt of wampum 
as a truce, and accom^oanied by Boisrondet and two 
others, started toward the band of already frenzied 
savages. Ashe came within dangerous range of tlieir 
arrows and saw that hostilities were not suspended, 
he sent his companions back, and holding up the 
pacific symbol advanced alone. 



LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 115 

Once in tli^ir midst a curious crowd of half-mad- 
dened Iroquois pressed about the mediator, and a 
young warrior among them, believing him to be an 
Illinois, thrust a knife deep into his side; but one of 
the chiefs, calling attention to Tonty^s unpierced 
ears, saved him from further molestation, and 
wrap23ed a wampum belt over the wound to stop- the 
flow of blood. 

Having done all he could to awe the invaders and 
secure an advantage for the Illinois, Tonty returned 
half-fainting, with his peaceful messages; but the 
wary Iroquois were not thus easily to be disposed of. 
Under the guise of friendship they approached the 
Illinois village, taking in with quick comprehension 
the real force of their adversaries, and contemptu- 
ously provoking a quarrel. 

The position of the Frenchmen soon became dan- 
gerous. 

Tonty saw that the Illinois could not resist their 
enemies, and had done all he could to aid them; 
while they too began to realize the situation and 
were leaving the field. At this point he and his 
companions prudently decided to retire; and finding 
an old canoe, the little party embarked in it and qui- 
etly ascended the river. On the way the boat was 
upset, and while a halt was made to repair it Father 
Ribourde, who was one of the number, wandered 
away and was never again seen. Boisrondet also be- 
came lost in the forest, but escaped the lurking red- 
skins and was able to find his way back. At the 
head of the Illinois the canoe entirely gave out, and 
from there on to Green Bay the three refugees were 
obliged to make their way on foot, finding sustenance 
in herbs and roots which they dug up as they went 



116 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

along. By the latter part of November they reached 
the town of a friendly Pottawattamie chief who had 
in several instances shown himself favorable to the 
French, and whose assertion that he knew but three 
great captains in the world, Frontenac, La Salle and 
himself, went far to prove his good-will. 

Early the following spring they started for Michili- 
mackinac, and there waited for La Salle. 

That indefatigable traveler was now preparing to 
return a third time to Fort Frontenac to straighten the 
tangled thread of his affairs, to quiet his creditors, and 
to test again the unfailing friendship of Frontenac. 

This time, instead of choosing a party entirely of 
white men, whose good faith he had found wanting 
in many a bitter experience, he secured eighteen Li- 
dians from the Abenaki and Mohican tribes, with 
the extra encumbrance of ten squaws whom the 
Indians insisted upon taking along to do camp work. 
Besides tliese there were twenty-three Frenchmen 
and three paj^ooses, and with this strange following 
La Salle again undertook the exploration of the Mis- 
sissippi. On the fourth of January, 1682, he reached 
the Chicago Eiver, where he found Tonty, Father 
Membre and a small party waiting with sledges. 
Three weeks later they made the portage to the Illi- 
nois, passed down the river on the ice, and found the 
familiar village, which had been re-inhabited since 
the late invasion, entirely deserted, the Indians hav- 
ing gone down to the old site of Fort Creve-coeur on 
Peoria Lake for the winter. At this point the river 
was^ as usual, open, and the canoes were put into the 
water, which quickly carried them down to the Mis- 
sissippi. There they were delayed a week by floating 
ice; but at last on the thirteenth of February were 



LA SALLE EXPLOHES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 117 

able to begin the descent of the river, not as La Salle 
had once hoped, with spread sail and imposing cere- 
mony, bnt with a modest flotilla of Indian canoes. 
Upon passing the Missouri Father Membre wrote that 
the water was ^Miardly drinkable," an expression 
which might amnse those familiar with the muddy 
torrent, and who know the condition of the main 
stream even before it is adulterated by its boisterous 
tributary. Beyond this, on the last bank, they came 
upon the village of the Tamaroas, where they landed 
and left indications of their presence for the absent 
hunters; being careful to express the peaceful intent 
of their journey, and thus secure a friendly reception 
when they should return. 

Notwithstanding La Salle's eagerness to push for- 
ward, the expedition was repeatedly delayed that the 
men might hunt and fish; for having come unen- 
cumbered with provisions excepting a quantity of 
Indian corn, the party relied completely upon game 
and an occasional donation from the Indians. Dur- 
ing one of these halts for food near the Third Chick- 
asaw Bluffs, one of the men, Peter Prudhomme, 
became separated from his companions and was not 
found for nine days. In the course of the search for 
him a report was brought to La Salle that a fresh 
Indian trail had been discovered. The missing man 
was immediately supposed to have fallen into the 
hands of the unknown savages; and fearing treachery 
to the entire party. La Salle set the men to building 
a fort. Prudhomme was found a few days later in 
an exhausted condition but unharmed, and La Salle 
left him with two or three others in charge of the 
fort which he had named in his honor, while the 
main party resumed the journey. 



118 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

Gradually the influence of winter had passed away 
as the canoes sped toward the Gulf; and to La Salle 
who had so often felt the bitterness of the cold sea- 
sons in the northern wilderness, the gracious warmth 
of the South must have had its charm. 

Below fort Prudhomme the voyagers w^ere over- 
taken by a dense fog in which they were obliged to 
make their way for forty leagues, and on the third of 
March, while still impeded by it, they were startled 
by war-cries and the sound of the tocsins on the west 
bank. Immediately they were on the qui vive, while 
La Salle with his usual caution moved to the side of 
the river opposite that from which the sounds were 
heard, had palisades thrown up, and within an hour 
was ready to meet the Indians. 

After an exchange of friendly signs the entire party 
crossed the river and entered the Indian camp, where 
for several days they were feasted and treated with 
the utmost generosity, and on the fourteenth of 
March they raised a cross in the village bearing the 
arms of France, and took possession of the country 
with solemn ceremony. These proceedings, while 
wholly incomprehensible to the Indians, were wit- 
nessed by them with apparent pleasure, and Membre 
had so far succeeded in explaining the sacred mean- 
ing of the cross that upon the return of the expedi- 
tion it was found to be surrounded by a palisade. 

This tribe, perhaps the same Akamseas which 
Marquette and Joliet encountered, further showed 
their good-will by supplying the party with provis- 
ions and giving them guides to conduct them to the 
villages below. The expedition embarked from here 
on the seventeenth of March, encountering on the 
downward journey several friendly tribes, and at last 



LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 119 

stopping near the village of the Taensas, which lay 
inland on a bayou formed by a change in the course 
of the river. La Salle was himself too fatigued to 
go to the village, but he sent Tonty and Father Mem- 
bre with presents to the chief, being unwilling to 
miss any opportunity to gain the favor of the red 
men along his route. 

Coming within sight of the Taensa village, Tonty 
and his companion were not a little surprised to find 
instead of the ordinary Indian lodges houses made 
of mud and straw, and other evidences of an approach 
to civilization. The people of this tribe wore gar- 
ments of white cloth ingeniously woven from the 
bark of trees, had some furniture in their dwellings, 
and like the Indians whom De Soto encountered, 
understood the use of metals; but while the Spanish 
adventurer had been deceived in regard to the mines, 
they were now discovered to the later Frenchman, 
whose ambition, however, reached so far beyond the 
accumulation of personal wealth that he gave them 
hardly a passing thought. 

The chief of this village paid La Salle the honor 
of a visit, coming to him with all the ceremony of a 
more civilized potentate, and returning with the 
pleased satisfaction of a child over the gifts which 
his white brother had lavishly but prudently be- 
stowed. 

From here La Salle again ordered the advance, and 
the expedition moved forward without encountering 
any Indians until the twenty-sixth of March, when a 
canoe was seen on the river twelve leagues below. 
The impetuous Tonty immediately gave chase, but 
was ordered to return by La Salle, who saw that a 
band of warriors had assembled on the shore ready to 



120 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

greet the strange intruder with a shower of arrows. 
He was soon sent back with the calumet and was 
kindly received, learning that the Indians belonged 
to the Natchez tribe, and that they desired the white 
men to visit them at their village. It lay three 
leagues inland, but, says Membre, " the Sieur de La 
Salle did not hesitate to go there." He raised a large 
cross bearing the arms of France in the midst of the 
lodges, taking possession of the country in the name 
of the French King, much to the amusement of his 
unsuspecting entertainers. 

At the village of the Koroa, who were allies of the 
Natchez, lying ten leagues below, the Frenchmen 
were again generously received, and La Salle was pre- 
sented with a peace-pipe from the chief; but further 
down they met with a different reception, for, coming 
unexpectedly upon a party of Quini23issa fishermen, 
the frightened Indians fled, while their friends from 
the shore covered their retreat with drawn bows. 
Seeing that to further follow them was useless, the 
voyagers kept their way, soon reaching the last and 
most peaceful village on their route. Here they dis- 
embarked and advanced toward the lodges, but no 
one appeared to resent their intrusion, and gaining 
confidence as they neared the silent habitations, they 
cautiously peered within their gloomy recesses. There 
they found a sickening sight, for less friendly visitors 
had preceded them, and with fearful vengeance had 
sent their unsuspicious victims with scalping-knife 
and tomahawk to the '^^ happy hunting grounds." 

" At last," says Father Membre, " after a naviga- 
tion of about forty leagues, we arrived on the sixth 
of April at a point where the river divides into three 
channels. The Sieur de La Salle divided his party the 




im) 



122 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

next day into three bands, to go and explore them. 
He took the western, the Sieur Dautray the south- 
ern, the Sieur de Tonty, whom I accompanied, the 
middle one. These three channels are beautiful and 
deep. The water is brackish; after advancing two 
leagues it became perfectly salt, and advancing on we 
discovered the oj)en sea, so that on the ninth of April, 
with all possible solemnity, we performed the cere- 
mony of planting the cross and raising the arms of 
France.^' The priests then chanted, the ^'^Vexilla 
Regis" and the ^^Te Deum," the men shouted 
" Vive le Eoi/'and La Salle, after taking formal pos- 
session of the Great River, '' of all rivers that enter 
into it, and of all the country watered by them," read 
a document certifying the fact and amply proving 
the credit due him. This he asked those who were 
with him to sign, taking in the meanwhile a careful 
estimate of the latitude of the mouth. By this act 
all of the country ^^from the Alleghenies to the 
Rocky Mountains, from the Rio Grande and the 
Gulf to the farthest springs of the Missouri,'^ was 
appropriated by this zealous subject of the Grand 
Monarch, and named in his honor Louisiana. 

The supply of provisions was now entirely ex- 
hausted, but when the descent of the river was com- 
menced there were opportunities to obtain food 
from the Indians or by the hunt. 

On the thirteenth of April the smoke of the Quin- 
ipissa village was seen, and a party was sent out to 
reconnoitre. Four squaws were taken, and by keep- 
ing three of them as hostages while the fourth was 
sent back with presents, a small quantity of corn was 
obtained. The gift was grudgingly given, however, 
and La Salle's men were obliged to act with the 



LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 123 

utmost caution in order to avoid treachery. Being 
invited to a feast at the village, they soon discovered 
that the pretended hospitality was only a ruse in- 
tended to ensnare them; for stray Indians were 
seen approaching, armed and evidently ready to give 
the white men a surprise. La Salle and his follow- 
ers kept their weapons well in sight and no assault 
was then attempted; but the following morning 
before dawn the sentinel heard a rustling in the cane- 
brakes near the camp, and giving the alarm, a band 
of prowling red-skins was discovered. Showers of 
arrows responded to the guns of the white men, and 
although it rained, a spirited fight ensued; but the 
Indians losing heavily without being able to injure 
their antagonists, soon fled. Thoroughly exasperated. 
La Sailers men were on the point of burning the 
village of their would-be murderers, but their leader 
restrained them, foreseeing a future need of their 
good-will. When the party reached the villages 
farther up the river they found that their late ene- 
mies had stirred up a feeling of distrust against them, 
but La Salle skillfully regained the confidence of the 
disaffected chiefs and was allowed to continue unmo- 
lested. He was soon delayed by something more 
serious than savage opposition, however, for near 
Fort Prudhomme he fell ill and was oblio^ed to remain 
there several weeks, while Tonty in the meanwhile 
went on to Michilimackinac, from whence he sent a 
report of the recent expedition to the Governor. 
Frontenac no longer held that office, having been 
replaced by La Barre, a man of altogether different 
character and strongly prejudiced against La Salle. 

The latter, having recovered, hastened to meet 
Tonty and leave instructions with him regarding the 



124 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

fort which he intended to build on the Illinois^ while 
he prepared to go to Quebec. His affairs were now 
in a lamentable condition, and it was necessary to 
take active steps to right them. Scores of creditors 
in Canada were waiting for the explorer's great 
schemes to materialize, while he, thoroughly confi- 
dent of success, was yet able to reassure them. As 
before suggested, his intention was to make the new 
fort a large trading post and the center of a prosper- 
ous colony, while by virtue of its position it would be 
a stronghold against the Iroquois. Around it would 
gather the numerous tribes of the West seeking pro- 
tection, who would pour into its storehouses the 
wealth of unlimited hunting grounds. It was to be 
the first in a chain of similar colonies which he in- 
tended to establish along the entire length of the 
Great River, to which the projected post at the Gulf 
was to be the key. In this the ambitious La Salle 
could see the prosperous accomplishment of all his 
plans. France benefited; the New World committed 
to her interests; creditors appeased, and his own 
unceasing efforts crowned. But he was doomed to 
disappointment. Reports were brought of an im- 
pending Iroquois invasion, and instead of hastening 
to France as he had intended, he was obliged to 
remain at the new fort — Saint Louis— to prepare for 
attack. From here he sent men to Quebec to obtain 
supplies, in anticipation of a siege, but so great was 
La Barre's jealousy of La Salle that he detained them. 
It is even said that he encouraged the Iroquois in 
making their raid upon the western tribes, that La 
Salle might be involved in the general ruin, thus sac- 
rificing his country's interests to his personal ambi- 
tion; but whether or not this has any foundation,, 



LA SALLE EXPLORES THE LOWER MISSISSIPPI. 125 

it is evident that he took extreme measures to thwart 
the explorer, attempting even to prejudice the King, 
and so far succeeding that Louis, in a letter to the 
Governor, expressed his belief in the uselessness of 
La Salle's discoveries. He then assumed the respon- 
sibility of seizing Fort Frontenac under some slight 
pretext, following up this piracy by sending an offi- 
cer to take possession of Fort Saint Louis> with orders 
to La Salle to report at Quebec. 

As the Iroquois had not made the expected raid, 
La Salle was at the time going to Canada, en route 
for France. He therefore met the Governor's emis- 
sary on the way, but maintaining his usual composure 
sent back word to Tonty to receive the Chevalier 
de Baugis well; while he, still undaunted, sought to 
redress his wrongs and claim an unprejudiced hear- 
ing at the Court of Versailles. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

LAST VOYAGE AND DEATH OF LA SALLE. 

OUIS^ partially influenced by the opinions of 
his late minister, and no doubt stirred 
by the earnestness of the explorer him- 
self — who, still inspired by the vast 
possibilities o'f the New World, was 
anxious that France should realize and 
profit by them — had listened favorably 
to La Sailers proposals, and had con- 
firmed his approval by letters patent bearing his 
royal sign and seal. Colbert had previously discussed 
with La Salle the feasibility of "^finding a port 
where the French might establish themselves and 
harass the Spaniards in those regions from whence 
they derive all their wealth," and this scheme, again 
brought to the notice of the King, prompted that 
enthusiasm which led him to provide more than had 
been asked for the success of the enterprise. Should 
the friendly relations maintained between France and 
Spain prevent any immediate encroachment upon 
the Mexican possessions of the latter, the policy of 
La Salle was to follow the original plan of establish- 
ing a colony at the mouth of the Mississippi, where 
he would be prepared at the slightest intimation of 
hostilities to make a raid upon the Mexican mines. 
In this case he further intimated that "if the Span- 
iards should delay satisfying the King at the "conclu- 
sion of a peace, an expedition at this point will oblige 

(126) 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 127 

them to hasten its conclusion, and to give His 
Majesty important places in Europe in exchange for 
those which they may lose in a country of the posses- 
sion of which they are extremely jealous/^ 

While these motives evidently excited the King's 
interest in the enterprise and secured his hearty coop- 
eration, the first object of the expedition was nomi- 
nally the subjection and conversion of the savage 
nations of America, and it was therefore in conform- 
ity to these motives that La Salle was careful to 
include among those who were to form his company 
a sufficient number of missionaries. Agents were 
sent to Rochefort and Eochelle to secure soldiers and 
artisans; several families were enlisted for the colony, 
and by the twenty-fourth of July, 1684, all preparations 
were completed, the company was aboard the boats, and 
together with twenty other vessels bound for Canada, 
the fleet sailed from Eochelle. The Canadian vessels 
no doubt bore the letters to La Barre expressing the 
King's disapproval of his late proceedings, and re- 
quiring the return of all property seized unlawfully 
belonging to his protege, the Sieur de la Salle. 

The naval command of La Salle's expedition had 
been given to Captain de Beaujeu, whom Le Clercq 
says was known for valor, experience, and meritorious 
service; who had indeed been a naval captain for 
thirteen years, as he himself tells Seignelay in one of 
his letters of complaint; but his long position of 
authority and natural pride made him chafe under 
the calm assumption of one whom he contemptuously 
calls a ^'^ civilian" and who was possessed of quite as 
much hauteur as himself. The King moreover had 
given La Salle almost unlimited authority, which 
easi ly gave him the advantage in matters of dispute. 



128 EAKLY EXPLORERS. 

Once at sea^ this unfortunate feeling of antagonism 
soon manifested itself, and a trifling accident which 
occurred when the fleet was about fifty leagues out 
was considered by some — La Salle among them — to 
have been deliberately planned. This was the break- 
ing of the bowsprit of the royal ship "^ Jolj/' which 
was under the personal command of Beaujeu. It was 
necessary to return in order to repair the injury, and 
in the meantime the ships bound for Canada, which 
were to have kept with the smaller fleet as far as 
Cape Finisterre, continued to that point alone. On 
the eighth of August La Salle's party reached the Cape, 
and on the twentieth sighted the Island of Madeira. 
Here Beaujeu wished to cast anchor for water and pro- 
visions, as there had been some misunderstanding at the 
start about the length of the voyage and the number 
of passengers; but La Salle considered this unneces- 
sary, and feared besides that the Spaniards might 
hear of their coming, which would place them under 
suspicion. 

Although La Salle's reasons for passing the island 
were excellent, Beaujeu and, in fact, the entire crew 
were out of humor with his decision, and Joiitel, look- 
ing back over the disastrous period which followed, 
says: '^^ These misunderstandings * * * laid the 
foundation of those tragical events which afterward 
put an unhappy end to M. de La Salle's life and 
undertaking, and occasioned our ruin." 

Beaujeu then declared that no stop should be 
made but at the Island of Saint Domingo. 

In passing the Tropic of Cancer on the way thither, 
the sailors prepared to carry out their usual practice 
of ^^ ducking." A tub was placed on deck and 
everything made ready for the ludicrous and annoying 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 129 

ceremony, when La Salle interfered, saying that 
those under his command should have no part in 
it; thereupon Beaujeu forbade the men to put the 
plan into execution, and this again brought the 
chief into disfavor. 

Together with these tempests on board the boats, 
the fleet was several times threatened, with storms 
from without. The " Aimable " and the "•Belle/" 
with the heavily loaded ketch ^' Saint Francis/" often 
became separated from the " Joly " and were obliged 
to lie to for fair weather, or follow as their heavier 
cargoes permitted. During one of these storms off 
Saint Domingo the vessels became dispersed, the 
^•^Joly " as usual keeping the lead. La Salle in the 
meantime had expressed his desire to stop at Port de 
Paix, which was a convenient point, and where he was 
to obtain supplies for the expedition according to a 
pre-arranged plan with M. de Cussy, Governor of the 
Island of Tortuga; but Beaujeu, evidently to gratify 
personal pique, passed the place in the night, anchoring 
on the twenty-seventh of September at Petit Gouave on 
the other side of the island. This was a great annoy- 
ance to La Salle, the more so as he was himself ill, 
ami was every day becoming more convinced, not 
only of Beaujeu's indifference, but of the utter 
wortlilessness of the men whom his agents had 
secured to aid him in his enterprise. He accepted 
the situation with characteristic fortitude, however, 
and on the day following the arrival at Petit Gouave, 
having somewhat recovered from his illness, he went 
ashore to send messages to De Oussy, Begon the 
intendant, and the Marquis de Saint Laurent, Lieu- 
tenant-governor of the islands. He then provided 
more comfortable quarters for the sick, who numbered 

9 



130 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

more than fifty ;, and whose makidies in most cases 
had been brought on by their own excesses. 

At this nnfortunate time he was himself attacked 
by a violent fever and was delirious for several days, 
only regaining consciousness long enough to realize 
the condition of his affairs. His men being under 
no restraint became more dissipated than ever, and 
Beaujeu at this crisis held coolly aloof. Word was 
also brought of the loss of the "" Saint Francis/^ one of 
the disastrous results of the captain's obstinacy. She 
had been taken by the Spaniards while attempting 
to come up with the other vessels after a storm. It 
probably afforded La Salle small satisfaction to learn 
from his friends on the island that this would not 
have occurred if Beaujeu had stopj)ed at Port de Paix. 

Having made reparation as far as i)ossible for this 
loss. La Salle hastened the embarkation, as his men 
were fast becoming demoralized and many of them 
had already deserted. At a council of pilots held to 
decide upon the point to be reached before making 
the final voyage, the Island of Cuba or Cape Saint 
Anthony was determined upon. At night, on the fifth 
of December, they cast anchor in a small creek on the 
Isle of Pines, where they stayed for three days wait- 
ing for fair weather. Here, according to Joutel, 
La Salle '^'^shot an alligator dead,'' which the soldiers 
proceeded to boil and eat; but the fastidious narrator 
remarks that they had '^good stomachs,'' and that 
he could not relish the meat, for it had a taste of 
musk. 

Quantities of wild swine were seen, which were 
probably " of the breed of those the Spaniards left 
in the islands when they first discovered them." One 
of these was killed and sent to La Salle, who divided 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 131 

the feast with the naval commander. Again on the 
eighth sails were set, with Cape Saint Anthony as the 
objective, which was reached four days later; hut the 
winds being unfavorable the expedition halted only 
one night there, moving away on the thirteenth. 
The winds being again unfavorable, Beaujeu sug- 
gested that the boats return to the cape, to which 
La Salle agreed, being careful not to give the ca})tain 
any cause to complain. On the eighteenth of the 
same month tlie fleet started forward in a fresh wind, 
moving generally to the northwest, and on the first 
of January, 1G85, was driven toward the coast by the 
current. It was then decided that a boat be sent out 
to discover land. La Salle, Beaujeu, and D'Aire being 
among the passengers. The result was unsatisfac- 
tory, and the wind rising, forced them back to the 
ships. A few days later a calm tempted La Salle to 
go ashore again to get some idea of his position; but 
the pilot took exception to the number of men who 
were to accompany him, and he unaccountably aban- 
doned the idea. The ships were at that time 2)roba- 
bly near one • of the mouths of the Mississi2)pi, and 
had an exploration been made La Salle's entire des- 
tiny might have been altered. He seemed, however, 
to have been entirely ignorant of the locality, believ- 
ing he was yet far to the eastward — near the Bay of 
Appalachee. He was therefore satisfied to send out 
the pilot and one of the masters of the boat '' La 
Belle," who soon returned on account of a fog. The 
pilot's companion reported that he believed there was 
a river beyond the shoals that had been sighted on 
the sixth, ''and yet," says Joutel, '' M. de La Salle 
took no notice of it, nor made any account of that 
report." Soon after this another attempt was made 



132 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

to reach the shore, as the supply of water had given 
out, Joutel being sent in charge of the boats. On 
nearing land a number of Indians were seen walking 
along the sandy beach, who signaled to the crew to 
come on, but the sea was very high and tlie boats 
would be in danger of going aground. Joutel now 
determined, if possible, to get the Indians to come 
out, that he might take them back to the ^^ Aim- 
able, ^^ where La Salle could question them. He there- 
fore signaled to them in turn, putting a handker- 
chief on the end of his fire-lock in token of peace. 
In an instant their swarthy bodies were seen battling 
with the waves, but they could not stand against 
them ami were forced back to shore. With quick 
intelligence they devised a plan, however, and soon 
put it into execution. Finding a large piece of 
timber, they threw it into the water and arranged 
themselves on either side of it, each man putting one 
arm around it and swimming with the other. When 
tliey reached tlie boats they were taken in, naked and 
streaming, and carried back to the vessel. The trip 
was useless, however, for La Salle could neither under- 
stand them nor make them understand him. He 
gave them beads and trinkets, according to his cus- 
tom, which were tied in their hair and about their 
necks, and thus adorned they were taken out to the 
place of meeting, from whence they swam ashore. 

When not hindered by calms the shij^s now bore 
steadily westward, expecting to find some signs of the 
Mississippi, and still misguided by the advice received 
at Saint Domingo. Frequent landings were made 
in the meantime for fresh water and game, and 
having reached the sandy shores of Texas, where the 
western curve of the Gulf commences, without finding 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 133 

^^the fatal river/^ as Joutel calls it. La Salle pro- 
posed to return and make investigations about the 
point which had been passed on the sixth of January; 
but ill success had somewhat weakened his cause, 
and Beaujeu, probably glad of the opportunity, now 
offered objections. In the first place he sent D'Aire 
with various grievances; among others that La Salle — 
who had hurried ahead in the ^'^Aimable," eagerly 
seeking the Mississippi — had designedly left him. He 
then complained that provisions had fallen short and 
that there would not be enough to last for the return 
voyage to France; but it was not La Salle's intention 
to return without making another attempt to find 
his river, and he therefore offered to supply Beaujeu's 
ship, the " Joly," with two weeks' provisions from 
his own. Beaujeu was dissatisfied with this, and left 
La Salle without further discussing the matter. 
Meanwhile boats went ashore for water and to give 
the men a chance to hunt. La Salle being among the 
passengers. Here D'Aire again came to him to talk 
about the provisions, still insisting that the '^'^ Joly" 
be supplied for a longer period than two weeks. 
La Salle not only explained that this would be ample 
time to carry out his plans, but that a larger supply 
would necessitate rummaging the liold of the " Aim- 
able." D'Aire returned with La Salle's messages, 
while the latter, wishing to find a river which would 
give a better supply of water than the one near which 
the vessels were then anchored, sent on a small party 
to explore. After following the shore line for some 
distance they found a ''*' great river." Signals were 
raised for the boats to join them, and La Salle hoped 
this might l)e one of the mouths of the Mississippi. 
Soundings were made all along and stakes set to 



134 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

guide their passage, for La Salle desired that they 
come to anchor at this point. He then sent the pilot 
of ^"^ La Belle ^' to assist in bringing in the fly- 
boat, but Beaujeu, angry about the provisions and 
thwarted in his already meditated plan of desertion, 
refused to let him come aboard, saying he could get 
along very well without his help. 

Another event occurring soon after seemed to pre- 
sage misfortune. La Salle had set some men to hew- 
ing down a tree on the river bank, and while at work 
they were surprised by Indians and several of their 
number captured. The rest ran terrified to report 
to La Salle, who immediately caused the party to 
pursue tlie savages with drums beating. This had 
the desired effect of scaring them. He then had ten 
of the men lay aside their arms and with him 
approach the Indians, as he wished to get what 
information he could from them and secure the 
captives peaceably. This was of no avail, however, 
for they could not make themselves understood, and 
they had led away the men during the conference. 
La Salle was therefore obliged to follow them to their 
village. On the way there the Indians were attracted 
by the ships, which could be plainly seen, and La 
Salle, following their gaze, noticed with some uneasi- 
ness that the '^'^ Aimable'^ was under sail and moving 
in the wrong direction; yet he was determined to 
rescue the captives, and therefore did not turn back. 
Soon the report of a cannon broke the stillness. The 
Indians, terrified, fell upon their faces, while La Salle, 
looking over the Gulf, saw the '^'^ Aimable ^' with 
furled sails stranded upon the shoals. The signal 
of distress meant an inestimable loss, for on this ship 
were almost all the tools and ammunition for the 



DEATH OV LA SALLE. 135 



O 



expedition; and although the accident was due to 
direct opposition to La Salle's orders — perhaps even to 
treachery — 'Miis intrepidity did not forsake him and 
he applied himself without grieving to remedy what 
might be." Notwithstanding the weight of anxiety 
pressing upon him, he waited for the release of his 
men, and then harrying to the shore did all in his 
power to recover part of the cargo of the ruined ves- 
sel. Some gunpowder and flonr were saved, but 
while the work was going on the sky became overcast 
and a storm broke upon the dismal scene. 

A party of Indians taking advantage of the general 
confusion came down to the beach to plunder, but 
La Salle's effectual tactics were resorted to, and the 
drums soon put them to flight. Later they succeeded 
in stealing a roll of blankets, and volunteers were 
sent to recover them, but finding that the squaws 
had already cut them up for skirts, they indiscreetly 
showed their anger and further excited the savages by 
taking some of their canoes. The result was fatal; 
for, being unfamiliar with the frail craft and delayed 
by obstructions, they made very slow progress and 
were overtaken by darkness not far below the Indian 
village. The vengeful inhabitants had stealthily 
followed them, and when their victims were asleej^ 
sent a salute of arrows into tlieir midst, killing two of 
the men and wounding La Salle's nephew, Moranguet. 
The latter, however, was not too badly hurt to dis- 
charge his gun at the unseen assailants, which for a 
time frightened them off. 

This affair, coupled with recent disasters, tended 
to increase the general discontent, and Beaujeu now 
prepared to return, saying that as the Mississippi — 
or at least what was supposed to be that river — had 



136 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

been reached, his obligation was practically at an end. 
La Salle was evidently very Avilling to forego his 
assistance, merely requesting that some ammunition 
which belonged to him on board the '^Joly'' be 
turned over to him; but Beaujeu, perhaps with a 
lingering feeling of spite, gave as an excuse for not 
meeting this request the fact tliat the goods lay at the 
bottom of the hold, and by searching for them he 
would endanger the vessel. Besides this, he allowed 
the entire crew of the '' Aimable " to follow her cap- 
tain and return with him to France. 

That this conduct was the result of deliberate 
treachery was confirmed by later events; and it has 
even been proved that the faithless captain after 
leavinof La Salle went himself in search of the Mis- 
sissippi, found it, and, although provisions had been 
alarmingly short before, remained in the vicinity of 
its mouth long enough to enable the engineer Minet 
to make two maps. He then set sail, gracefully turn- 
ing his back upon the lonely shores of the Gulf, 
where far to the westward — within what is now 
known as Matagorda Bay — the abandoned and well- 
nigh despairing little colony under La Salle was left 
to accomplish the great ends which that intrepid 
explorer had planned. 

Although the outlook was rather disheartening 
after the departure of the '' Joly," no time was given 
over to idle lamenting. From the wreck of the 
'^'^ Aimable," Fort Saint Louis was built, the colonists 
and some of the men were safely domiciled within its 
palisades, and Joutel left in command, while La 
Salle went to discover if the river they had reached 
were indeed what he had hoped — the western mouth 
of the Mississippi. 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 137 

Orders were left to liold no communication with 
Indians and to fire upon any avIio might approach. 

La Salle hearing shots a few days afterward, and 
fearing they might be a signal of distress, returned 
to see if all was well. He had found in the mean- 
time that the '''great river ^^ which they had hap- 
lessly come upon was not the one on which the colo- 
nists were to find a home and fortune; but their 
immediate wants must be supplied, and for this 
reason La Salle selected a more convenient place to 
the eastward of Fort Saint Louis, on a small river 
which he named La Vache. 

Joutel, abandoning the old fort to join the j)arty 
here some time later, found a forlorn condition of 
things. Owing to the scarcity of timber, the men, 
women, and children were living in wretched little 
huts and tents, the crops were a miserable failure, 
and in fact failure seemed to typify the whole enter- 
prise. La Salle, however, was still hopeful and 
undaunted. He sent Joutel back to Fort Saint Louis 
with "La Belle," the only boat now left, to get the 
timber which had been squared and hidden in the 
sand. With this, new buildings were thrown up and 
more comfortable quarters established; yet the seem- 
ing air of prosperity still covered miserable realities, 
for disease and death were every day adding to the 
overwhelming numbers who had perished within the 
year. 

There was now no time to be lost, and La Salle with 
thirty men went once more in search of the "fatal 
river." This time, anticipating bad faith, he left 
additional orders with Joutel telling him to receive 
no man of those who went with him except he 
brought a message from him in writing. It soon 



138 EARLY EXPLOREKS. 

transpired that this order was not made without 
reason. 

One evening a few weeks after La Salle's depart- 
ure the sentinel keeping his lonely watch within the 
fort was startled by the sound of a voice coming from 
the direction of the river, calling ^' Dominick!" the 
name of the younofcr Duhaut. Joutel was summoned, 
and in an instant all the men were assembled in the 
open inclosure. The commander advanced to see 
who the intruder might be, and found Duhaut in a 
canoe near the shore. Joutel was in doubt as to 
whether or not he ought to enforce La Salle's order, 
but Duhaut told a very plausible story of becoming 
separated from the party and of being unable to 
overtake it, and Joutel saw no other course but to 
allow him to enter. ^'Thus it pleased God," he 
says, '^Hhat he who was to be one of the murderers 
of M. de La Salle should come off safe and surmount 
almost infinite dangers." Some time after this La 
Salle himself returned with a few ragged and weary 
men, after an unsuccessful tramp through forests and 
over prairies in quest of the river which the explorer 
was destined never to reach. 

On the day of his arrival Joutel happened to be 
walking on top of one of the buildings, and seeing a 
body of men advancing over the prairie hurried out 
to meet them. They proved to be La Salle and eight 
of his followers, the remainder having been left on 
the bank of a river which was thouo-ht to be the Mis- 
sissippi, while the crew of the " Belle," with the 
boat itself, which had kept along the coast, had dis- 
appeared and was supposed to be lost. With this 
the last ho2~»e of returning to France was aban- 
doned; the Mississippi was still undiscovered; every 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 139 

imclertakiiig had failed, and at last, borne down by a 
weight of anxiety and wearied with his fruitless wan- 
derings. La Salle fell dangerously ill; but his sturdy 
frame and indomitable spirit soon overcame this weak- 
ness, and he prepared again not only to find the Missis- 
sippi, but to ascend it to the Illinois and thence to 
Canada, where he intended to get vessels and provis- 
ions for the relief of his people. At the end of April 
his party of twenty volunteers, bearing their light 
packs of clothing and ammunition, issued from the 
gate of the little stockaded fort, quietly and reso- 
lutely, to undertake another of those journeys which 
had so often proved perilous and unavailing. As 
usual, a remnant of their number returned to tell the 
story of another failure; some having deserted and 
others perished. 

These continual misfortunes were naturally dis- 
heartening, and yet the chief still planned to accom- 
plish his purpose. Another ex^^edition was discussed; 
preparations were begun; and as it was decided to 
wait till the end of the hot weather before undertak- 
ing it, the men were put to work making clothing 
out of sails, and hewing timber for future use, for 
work was always La Salle's antidote for discontent. 

In the meantime Christmas approached, and the 
isolated band far away in the wilderness assembled 
in the rough chapel to celebrate the mass. On 
Twelfth Night they again came together after the 
usual custom, to perform the quaint old ceremony of 
Tlie King Drinks; but when they lifted the cups 
their lips were moistened, not with the merry wine 
which their countrymen were sii)ping in France, but 
with the simple nectar of the New World's springs. 

The following day, the seventh of January, those 



140 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

chosen to accompany La Salle on his last journey, 
said farewell to the forlorn little colony left behind, 
once more encouraged by the words and example of 
their leader. Much the same direction that had 
been taken before was followed by this latter party — 
that is, toward the northeast. On the fourteenth, 
while crossing a prairie, herds of buffaloes were seen; 
some of them running as if pursued by Indians, 
while others, beginning to catch the infection, were 
moving in frigiitened groups toward the travelers. 
Soon a hunter appeared, and La Salle, having ordered 
one of the pack-horses to be unloaded, sent one of 
his men to pursue the red-skin, who, finding himself 
captured, concluded he was a lost man. He was 
somewhat surprised, however, to find himself kindly 
treated — which but for La Salle's wise interposition 
would not have been the case — and upon being 
released soon afterward walked cautiously away till 
well out of range, when he began running for dear 
life. Soon after this a band of Indians was seen 
advancing, but La Salle had his men continue the 
march until within hailing distance, when a halt Avas 
called . At this the natives halted also, while La Salle, 
laying down his gun, walked toward the chief, sig- 
naling him to come forward. A sort of peace was 
made, joresents were distributed, and the two parties 
separated. La Salle and his men pushing on over the 
still familiar route, and occasionally meeting Indians 
with whom peace was established. 

On the eleventh of March they came to a place 
near which La Salle in a j^revious journey had hidden 
some corn and beans, and as provisions were scarce 
Duhaut, Heins, Liotot the surgeon, Nika his Mohe- 
gan hunter, and Saget his footman were sent with a 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 141 

party of Indians to get the stores. They were found 
rotted, but when returning Nika shot two bullocks, 
and Saget was sent back to inform his master. 

Moranguet, La Salle's nephew, and De Marie were 
sent with horses to bring back the meat for drying; 
but when they reached the hunting party they found 
that tlie meat had already been smoked, although it 
was not ready; while Duhaut and his companions 
had, according to custom, laid aside the marrow- 
bones and a few other parts to roast. At this the 
quick-tempered Moranguet fell into a rage, menacing 
Duhaut and the others, and at the same time taking 
possession of all of the meat. This impassioned 
behavior 'roused like a fire-brand the smoldering 
hatred of the men, who already had causes of offense 
against the nephew of their chief. 

In an instant a thousand real and imaginary griev- 
ances were recalled. In the first place, Duhaut and 
Liotot had invested large sums of money in an enter- 
prise which seemed destined to fail, and in follow- 
ing which they had met only privations and losses; 
their leader, habitually cold and reserved, had uncon- 
sciously done much to help on tlie general disaffec- 
tion, while Liotot — whose brother had been sent back 
alone by La Salle during one of the marches, and bad 
been massacred by Indians on the way — had a per- 
sonal sorrow to avenge. They bad moreover a 
grudge against Moranguet and were determined to 
kill him. 

Taking the pilot Tessier, Heins the buccaneer, and 
L'Archeveque into their confidence, they went aside 
to deliberate upon their murderous purpose; and hav- 
ing determined to put ]^ika and Saget out of the 
way because they were faithful to La Salle, they 



142 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

waited, after the manner of tlieir kind, for the dark- 
ness. 

The evening meal was eaten in silence, each man 
busy with his own thoughts, and when it was finished 
the watches were arranged. Moranguet was to keep 
the first, Saget the second, and Nika the third. 

Taking his post, gun in hand, Moranguet guarded 
the apparently sleeping figures of his companions 
until his time was up; then calling to Saget ho 
wrapped himself in his blanket and lay down to rest. 

The end of the third watch was the signal for the 
assassins to begin their work. Duhaut, Ileins, 
Tessier, and L'Archeveque stood guard while the 
surofeon with sure aim struck the death-blow. Nika 
and Saget did not stir, Ijut Moranguet made a convul- 
sive effort to sit up, which was quickly prevented by 
a second stroke. ''This slaughter,^^ says Joutel, 
" had yet satisfied but one part of the revenge of 
those murderers. To finish it and secure themselves 
it was requisite to destroy the commander-in-chief.^^ 
Their unhappy victim was already planning to meet 
his murderers; for becoming uneasy at the delay of 
Moranguet, and fearing the party might have fallen 
into the hands of the Indians, he determined to go in 
search of them. He also, it is said, had forebodings 
of another kind, and asked his men if Duhaut, Liotot, 
and Ileins had not betrayed some signs of discontent. 
Eeceiving no definite answer, he started out accom- 
panied by Father Douay, leaving Joutel in charge of 
the camp. 

On the way he talked to the priest of God's mercy 
in having protected him from the countless dangers 
with which he had been encompassed during his 
twenty years of travel in America; but his manner 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 143 

suddenly changing, he became so overwhelmed with 
sadness that his companion declares he did not know 
liim. 

As they advanced toward the river, on whose 
farther shore the murderers had their camp. La 
Salle, noticing two eagles circling in the air over- 
head, discharged his gun at them. The shot Avarned 
the conspirators. Duhaut and L^Archeveque went 
u]) the river, crossing over without being seen. 
Duhaut tlien dropped into the long grass, while his 
servant remained in sight, and La Salle noticing him 
asked Avhere Moranguet was. L^'Archeveque replied in 
a broken voice that he was along the river, and at 
the same instant, as La Salle turned to follow the 
direction, Duhaut raised and fired. The bullet 
reached its mark and La Salle fell, pierced through 
the brain. 

Father Douay, who was standing beside him, 
tremblingly expected the same fate; but Duhaut 
reassured him, telling him that it was desjjair that 
had driven him to the deed. 

The murderers now gathered about their victim, 
while Liotot, remembering the death of his brother, 
cried out in scorn, '^^ There thou liest, great Baslia! 
There thou liest!" Then dragging the corpse into 
the bushes they left it a prey to the beasts. 

Duhaut and his confederates now returned to camp, 
where they were soon the masters, the terror of their 
presence causing the most abject submission. Joutel, 
meanwhile, had gone off to a neighboring hill to 
watch some horses grazing in the bottom, and thither 
L'Archeveque, who had a " kindness" for him, went 
to warn him. The news was a great blow to this 
officer, and he had besides something to fear on his 




(144) 



DEATH OF LA SALLE. 145 

own account. There was, however, no alternative, 
and trusting to a kind Providence he went back to 
camp, where he was greeted by Duhaut's menacing 
remark, ^' Every man ought to command in his turn."" 

Safety demanded silence, while those who would 
have brought the guilty ones to justice were 
restrained by the priest Cavelier, who reminded them 
that vengeance belonged to God. 

With the death of the leader, whom Douay called 
their guardian angel, everything was thrown into 
confusion. The new commander took possession of 
all the stores and the men dared offer no resistance. 
There came a time, however, when their villainy was 
avenged; and strangely enough this was brought 
about by one of their number, the buccaneer Heins. 
While he seems to have conspired with them against 
Moranguet, there is no evidence to show that he took 
a part in the murder of La Salle, who had always 
been partial to him. When, therefore, Duhaut and 
Liotot were on their way to Canada, Heins, who 
refused to go with them farther, demanded his share 
of the goods. Duhaut and Liotot refused, giving as 
an excuse the fact that they were entitled to them 
as a recompense for their losses. ^"^So you will not 
give them to me? ^' demanded the buccaneer. ^' No,^' 
replied they. Thereupon he drew his pistol from 
his belt and fired at Duhaut, saying as he did so, 
^^You are a villain. You killed my master.'^ A 
Frenchman who was then with Heins mortally 
wounded Liotot, and after the latter had made a con- 
fession of his crime, the same man stepped forward 
and discharged a blank cartridge against his head. 
In a moment more his liair had caught fire, then his 
clothing, and so, consumed by the flames, he perished. 

10 



146 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

Joutel, the two Caveliers, Father Doiiay, and a few 
others afterward made their way to Fort Saint Louis 
on the Illinois^ where they waited for Tonty, who had 
gone to the Iroquois war, and from whom they hiter 
received money to return to France; concealing from 
him for certain reasons the fact of La Sailers death, 
Tonty, having previously heard that the latter was 
somewhere on the Gulf and in distress, had made a 
difficult journey to find him, with the hope of lend- 
ing him succor; but, failing in the attempt, was 
obliged to return again to his post on the Illinois. 
On the way up the Mississippi he left a letter with 
the Quinipissa tribe — since become friendly to the 
French — and D'Ibberville, passing that way thirteen 
years later, found the message, which had been care- 
fully preserved by one of the chiefs. 

As to the little Texan colony of Saint Louis, which 
La Salle left when he went on his last journey in 
search of the "fatal river,"' the only record that 
remains of it is in the Spanish account of the expedi- 
tion of Don Alonzo de Leon, where it is said that the 
Spaniards upon reaching Bay Saint Bernard, known by 
the French as Bay Saint Louis, came upon a ruined 
fort where the dead bodies of several foreigners were 
found, who had evidently been massacred by the 
Indians. Don Alonzo Avas moved to com})assion at 
the sight, and although he afterward learned from 
two Frenchmen who had been Avith La Salle — 
L'Archeveque was one — the motives which had moved 
the explorer Avhen he brought his people there, he 
still manifested the greatest concern and pity. At 
the same time, however, he informed his govern- 
ment of the affair, that its Mexican colonies might 
be protected f i-om the inroads of others, which this 



dp:ath of la salle. 147 

daring though unsuccessful venture seemed to 
presage. 

So perished the plans of one of the greatest of 
exjDlorers^ who ^'belonged not to the age of the 
knight-errant and the saint, but to the modern 
world of practical study and J^ractical action/' and 
to whom the enterprising spirit of a nineteenth- 
century civilization looks back with admiration and 
praise. 




CHAPTER IX. 

FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 

HE life of this sturdy Franciscan, whose 
very garb has so often been the means 
of condemning him, possesses no small 
amount of attractiveness, notwith- 
standing the just criticisms that have 
been leveled against it by those who 
have made it a study; and even in folloAving Henne- 
pin's accounts, exasperating as they are by the doubts 
which they excite of the author's veracity, it is still 
impossible to resist the clever stretching of truth 
which made them popular above those of his fellow 
travelers, not only in France, but in the other coun- 
tries of Europe. 

With La Hontan and a few others of like reputa- 
tion, he is condemned to '' that amiable class who 
seem to tell truth by accident and fiction by inclina- 
tion"; yet for want of something better we are left 
to the mercy of these capricious historians, who with 
all their fabrications have given us records of the 
highest value. 

Moved by impulse while still a student, Hennepin 
entered the order of Saint Francis that he might pass 
the remainder of his days ''in a life of austerity." 
This step was evidently a mistake. He soon became 
impatient with convent monotony, and in reading of 
the travels of his brother priests his craving for 
adventure asserted itself. He was permitted to 

(148) 



FATHER LOUIS HEN"N"EPIN". 149 

visit the Franciscan churches and convents of Ger- 
many and Italy, which in a measure satisfied him; 
but returning from this tour he found his inclina- 
tions thwarted by one of his superiors who did not 
approve of them, and who sent him to a convent in 
Hainault, where he stayed a year preaching. 

Any tiling was better than this, and at the end of 
that time he received permission to go to Artois, and 
from there was sent to Calais, where he artlessly com- 
promised himself by confessing that he ^' often hid 
behind the tavern doors while the sailors were talking 
over their cruises, ^^ declaring that he could have 
passed whole days and nights without eating in this 
agreeable occupation, because by this means lie was 
enabled to learn something new about the manners 
and mode of life of foreign nations. 

By these stories his ^*^old inclination" was also 
aroused, and starting out again he wandered about as 
a missionary through the towns of Holland, although 
the country was then shadowed by the desperate con- 
flicts of the Prince of Orange and Louis XIV. 

At Maestricht, at the time of the siege, he worked 
in the hospitals among the wounded for eight months, 
and, catching a zeal from his labors there, was next 
ministering to the soldiers on the bloody field of 
Seneff, where his unflinching charity, though in a 
measure vaunted by himself, was none the less 
admirable. 

From war-scourged Holland he was recalled to 
Rochelle, having been elected by his superiors to 
make one of the quintette of missionaries to be sent 
to Canada at the request of Frontenac. This oppor- 
tunity was gratifying to the restless priest, and he 
hastened back to France to prepare for the vovage. 



150 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

La Salle, with his grant of Fort Frontenac and new 
patent of nobility, and Francis de Laval, soon to 
become Vicar Apostolic of New France, were two of 
his fellow passengers, whom he variously impressed 
on the way to Canada. He says that De Laval upon 
their arrival at Quebec commissioned him to preach 
the Advent and Lenteii sermons to the nuns of the 
Hotel Dieu; but curious in the meantime to see the 
country about him, he traveled to the neighboring 
towns with his portable chapel service and snow-shoes 
strapped to his back, sturdily enduring hunger and 
fatigue, and, worse still, the frosts which " often 
penetrated to his very bones." 

From Quebec he was sent with Father Buisset to 
Fort Frontenac to instruct the Indians there, and 
while laboring in the new field still roamed about in 
every direction, visiting the Five Nations, and even 
going as far as Albany, where the Dutch invited him 
to make his home. 

At the end of two years La Salle had returned from 
France with permission to carry on his discoveries, 
and Hennepin, hearing of his arrival, hurried down 
to Quebec, where he hoped to find messages giving 
him permission to join in the enterprise. To his 
delight La Salle brought a favorable letter from 
Father Le Fevre, his Provincial, and after going into 
retreat for a time, he went back to Fort Frontenac, 
where with La Motte and a crew of sixteen he was 
sent forward to Niagara. Then followed the build- 
ing of the fort there; the negotiations with the 
Senecas; the triumphant sail of the '^ Griffin,"' and 
finally the establishment of Fort Creve-coeur. 

From here La Salle sent the restless Eecollet on to 
the Mississippi, before making his brave journey 



FATHEit LOUIS IIEMNKPIN. 151 

back to Canada for the relief of tliemenwlio deserted 
liini. Hennepin was reluctant in accepting this 
commission^ not probably for want of courage, for 
he more than once proved that he was not lacking in 
that quality, but perhaps because the journey would 
be a tedious one, and he was at the time suffer- 
ing from an abscess in the mouth. He offered to 
exchange places with Father Membre, who was dis- 
gusted with the Illinois, and who came down to Fort 
Creve-coeur to pour his trials into the ears of his 
brother missionaries. " This set the Father thinking," 
says Hennepin, '' and he preferred to remain with 
the Illinois, of whom he had some knowledge, rather 
than expose himself to go among unknown nations." 

There was then no escape, for La Salle, always it 
seems harboring a little feeling of antagonism against 
the self-assertive priest, threatened to write to Hen- 
nepin's sujieriors in France if he refused to obey his 
wish; while the venerable Father Ribourde, himself 
one of the bravest of the band of missionaries, encour- 
aged his younger brother with priestly consolation. 
On the twenty-ninth of February, 1680, La Salle and 
the men from the fort came down to the river to bid 
Hennepin and his companions farewell. By the 
water's edge lay moored the birch canoe which was to 
carry them througji unknown dangers; its crannies 
fdled with hatchets and beads, as passports to the 
strange tribes of the Upper Mississipj)i. 

Hennepin embraced all the men in turn, receiving 
Father Ribourde's blessing and an encouraging word 
from La Salle, whom at the last ho accuses of rashly 
exposing his life; then, with a stroke of the paddles 
the canoe was started down the stream and its occu- 
pants lost to sight. 



152 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

In the evening a party of Illinois, returning to their 
village with the spoils of the hunt, startled the priest 
and his companions and almost succeeded in influ- 
encing Accault and Du Gay to abandon their jour- 
ney, but the men knew if they did this the men at 
the fort would see them, and they decided to keep on 
their way. Near the mouth of the river they came 
to a camp of the Tamaroa and were invited to their 
village on fehe Mississippi. Hennepin, however, pre- 
vailed upon the men, who intended to do some trad- 
ing, to wait until they reached the Upper River, and 
so prevented a delay. The keen-eyed Indians had 
noticed in the meantime that the white men's canoe 
was stored with arms for their enemies, and were 
determined to get possession of them. They accord- 
ingly started out in pursuit; but their heavy wooden 
boats were no match for the canoe and they were 
soon far behind. Resorting to another means, they 
sent a party of young warriors along the shore to 
intercept the white men at a narrow point. The 
pursued saw their camp-fire at night, and, warned by 
it, hurried to an island on the opposite side of the 
river, leaving their dog in the canoe as sentinel, 
while they, expecting to be followed, silently waited 
for the signal to embark. Their fears were ground- 
less. The Indians failing to overtake them returned, 
leaving them to continue their journey to the Missis- 
sippi, where they were detained by floating ice until 
the twelfth of March. 

Here the speculations regarding Hennepin's move- 
ments begin. In his first account, published in 1683, 
he describes the journey northward, and his capture 
by the Sioux, making no reference to a descent of 
the river, and again in the journal published fourteen 



FATHER LOUIS HENKEPIK. 153 

years later he declares that he descended the Missis- 
sippi to the Gulf; although he concealed the fact, he 
says, in order that La Salle, '''who wished to keep all 
the glory and all the knowledge of it to himself/' 
might not be offended! This remarkable voyage, 
according to a coincidence of dates in the two 
accounts, was made in forty-three days; but as La 
Salle cantionsly remarks: '"^It is necessary to know 
him somewhat '' to tell how much credence should 
be given to these declarations. It is generally 
believed that the earlier work is the more reliable — that 
it is even accurate — and therefore the experiences of 
the eccentric priest on the Upper Mississippi may be 
accepted with a good share of faith. Taking him at 
his word then, he and his companions passed in their 
upward course the rivers emptying into the main 
stream from the east and west, coming at last to 
the falls which he named in honor of Saint Anthony 
of Padua. 

The journey was not altogether one of privations. 
Tliere was an abundance of game, deer, buffalo, bear, 
and wild turkey, on which they had a continual 
feast; making amends for their Lenten indulgence 
by saying prayers three times a day, their chief peti- 
tion at these times being that they might not be sur- 
prised by the ?iatives at night, for with all their 
courage they valued their scalps as highly as their 
less venturesome brothers. This petition was granted 
soon after their midday devotions on the eleventh of 
April. A war-party of a hundred and twenty Sioux 
on their way to the lower tribes suddenly came upon 
them. In an instant their arrows were whirring 
around them and their canoes had hemmed them in; 
but the old warriors noticing the calumet which 




HENNEPIN AT THE FALLS OF SAINT ANTHONY. 

(154) 



FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 155 

Hennepin held, kept the young men from violence. 
The Indians then attempted to terrify the group on 
the shore; some of them leaping into the water and 
others darting i\]) in their canoes, accompanying their 
maneuvers with piercing yells. All this had the 
desired effect. Hennepin hastened to give them 
the all-powerful ''tabac/' and they were partially 
appeased. Hearing them repeat the words Miam- 
iha, Miamiha, and inferring from this that they 
spoke of the Miamis, whom with the Illinois they 
were about to attack, he took up a stick and mark- 
ing with it on the -sand attempted to explain that 
the Miamis were no longer in their villages, but had 
lied beyond the Mississippi; whereupon four old men 
placed their hands on his head and began to wail. 
This demonstration somewhat disturbed Hennepin, 
the more so as the Indians refused to smoke his 
peace-pipe. With quick thought, he drew forth a 
tattered handkerchief and made a sign as if to wipe 
away their tears. The stolid faces showed no evi- 
dence of pleasure. Soon, With '^ yells capable of 
striking the most resolute with terror," they crossed 
the river, obliging Hennepin and his companions to 
go with them. They then assembled in council, 
while the unconscious objects of their discussion, 
withdrawn a short distance from the camp, were 
making their fire for supper. In the midst of these 
preparations two chiefs apj^roached to inform them 
by signs that the warriors had decided to tomahawk 
them; and Hennepin, duly impressed by the infor- 
mation, again hastened to appease the would-be 
murderers, by throwing into their midst a present of 
knives, hatchets, and tobacco, and at the same time 
resorting to diplomacy, took one of the hatchets. 



156 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

bowed his head before the astonished Indians and by 
signs gave them to understand that they might then, 
if they wished, carry out their purpose. 

This pleased his audience, and although the peace- 
pipe was still refused, they invited him and his com- 
panions to share their feast of beaver with them. 
At night, anticipating trouble, Accault and Du Gay 
slept on their arms; but Hennepin affirms that he 
took no precaution, having determined to give him- 
self up without resistance. He bore his part in keep- 
ing guard, however, that the Indians might not 
surj^rise them while asleep. 

The night at last wore away without any disturb- 
ance, and in the morning their fears were dispelled. 
Narrhetoba, one of the warriors, painted from head 
to foot, came to them and asked for the calumet, and 
returning to his camp made all the Indians smoke; 
after which he told the white men they must return 
with them to his country. 

Hennepin was now greatly perplexed in performing 
his devotions, for the Indians, watching him as he 
prayed, muttered, with dark faces, ^'^Ouackanche ^' — 
meaning that the book out of which he read was a 
spirit. Du Gay and Accault, fearing for their lives, 
begged the priest to go apart to pray; '^^but,^^ says 
Hennepin, ^'the morel concealed myself, the more 
I had the Indians at my heels.'' Resorting to another 
method, he chanted his prayers aloud with the book 
opened on his knee, while the canoes were in motion, 
and the Indians, thinking the book made him sing to 
please them, no longer disturbed him. 

Another danger threatened them in the meantime; 
for Aquipaguetin, a chief whose son had been killed 
by the Miamis, was angry with the white men 



FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 157 

because they had prevented him by their information 
from taking his revenge. He attem2)ted to excite 
the other chiefs against them by wailing his grief 
every night; and Hennepin attributes the escape from 
this danger to the fact that the Indians wished to 
keep the good-will of the French, who could furnish 
them with ^'iron that has understanding," meaning 
guns and ammunition. The priest then complains of 
the harsh treatment to which he and his companions 
were subjected, and says that there was no oppor- 
tunity to go up or down the river to explore, as the 
Indians kept a vigilant watch — thus denying his later 
assertion that he descended the river to the Gulf. 

Having finally reached the end of their journey by 
water, the party met to decide upon what should be 
done with the Frenchmen, and at last they were dis- 
tributed among the three families of the tribe who 
had lost children in battle. This done, their goods 
were appropriated and their canoe destroyed to pre- 
vent their return. 

When within a short distance of the village the 
Frenchmen saw to their horror bunches of straw 
hanging to the posts of the cabins; and taking this 
as a sign that they were to perish at the stake, were 
filled with apprehension. Besides they noticed that 
the Indians, having painted Du Gay's face and 
fastened a tuft of white feathers in his hair, made 
him sing and shake a gourd filled with pebbles; but 
they soon found these fears to be groundless, for they 
were feasted and given the calumet to smoke. 

Stimulated at last by hunger, Hennepin undertook 
to master the language of his adopted people; learn- 
ing first their word "Taketchiabihen," or ''What do 
you call that," and, with the help of the children. 



158 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

gradually acquiring the names of the things he saw. 
He also won their good-Avill by attempting to cure them 
with a little bundle of medicines which he carried in 
his sleeve. 

In the early part of July the Sioux went south- 
ward on their annual hunting excursion^ and at the 
same time Hennepin and Du Gay, through the influ- 
ence of a friendly chief, were allowed to descend to 
the Wisconsin, where they expected to find traders 
and a supply of ammunition — Du Gay and Accault 
probably intending to use it to trade with the Indians 
for furs. On the way down they were overtaken by 
the hunters, and Aquipaguetin, who by an inexplica- 
ble turn of affairs had assumed the protection of 
Hennepin, came up to the priest and asked him if he 
had found the Frenchmen who were to bring the sup- 
plies. Upon receiving an unsatisfactory answer, the 
chief started on himself to the rendezvous, intending 
to seize what he could; but finding no sign of the 
goods or the white men he returned, thoroughly out 
of humor with his adopted son, and vexed that he 
had made the trip in vain. 

Soon after this the bunting-camp was thrown into 
a state of excitement by a report of the old men, who 
as usual had been stationed on the hill-tops to keep 
the watch. They had seen two warriors in the 
distance, they said, which immediately started a 
pursuit. 

Only two women of a neighboring band of Sioux, 
who had strayed from their party, were overtaken, but 
they said that their hunters had met five ^'^ spirits," 
meaning Europeans, near Lake Superior, who, 
knowing that there were white men with this tribe, 
had expressed their desire to visit them. 



FATHER LOUIS HENNEPIN. 159 

On the return of the jiarty to their northern home 
these five *^ spirits^' were met, and found to be Du 
Lhut and four companions, come to explore the Great 
River and to make peace with the tribes along their 
route. 

They accompanied the Sioux back to their villages, 
but as the cold months were coming, and the necessity 
of staying longer practically at an end, Du Lhut and 
Ilennejiin came together to discuss returning to 
Canada. Haviug arranged their plans, Du Lhut 
then told tlie Indians that the Frenchmen must leave 
them. At first this announcement was received with 
some opposition, but the head chief finally consented 
and traced himself the route they were to take. 

Everything ])eing in readiness, the eight travelers 
bade adieu to their Sioux friends and started back to 
civilization. Descending the Mississippi as far as 
the Wisconsin, they followed the course which Joliet 
and Marquette had taken seven years before; down 
the Fox River, across Lake Winnebago, and thence 
to Lake Michigan, continuing through the chain of 
lakes to the settlements in Canada. From here 
Hennepin went to France, and was soon afterward 
in Amsterdam with his manuscript attempting to 
find a publisher. Failing there he went to Utrecht, 
where his second journal appeared in 1G07. His 
later life is comparatively unknown; but from a 
letter dated at Rome, 1701, he is supposed to have 
been at the convent of Aracoeli, and attem^^ting to 
interest certain persons in the mission field of the 
Mississippi country, '^^ where he hoj^jcd to renew his 
labors." As to the contradictory accounts which he 
published relating to his explorations and those of 
La Salle, there has been much comment, not only by 



160 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

late critics, but by the men of his time. Among the 
latter he made a feeble attempt to justify himself, 
but this effort was far from convincing his accusers 
then, and has even less weight now. From the 
doubtful pages unanswered questions still arise. What 
was Hennepin's real mission to the Mississippi? Why 
did he apparently avoid La Salle? And did he 
actually precede the latter in the exploration of the 
lower river? But with all this, the careful critic 
putting the journal to the test has found one certain 
truth, and the historian with impartial applause hails 
the explorer of the Upper MississipjDi, Father Louis 
Hennepin. 




CHAPTER X. 

LA HONTAN^ — CHARLEVOIX — CAKVER. 

ITH La Salle and Hennepin^ the 
exploration of the Mississippi was 
jiractically ended, although its 
farthest fountains were still undis- 
covered; yet, to these travelers 
who had followed its winding 
course of three thousand miles, it 
had not lost the old appellation of 
^^the unknown river of the'West." 

One of those to follow the great explorers in the 
valley of the Great Eiver was the Baron La Hon^tan, 
whose accounts in his own day were looked at 
askance generally, and loudly disclaimed by the 
Jesuits, but which have at last received a partial 
justification by Jean Nicollet and a few others. 

On the twenty-fourth of September, 1688, when 
the tragic news of La Salle's death had reached the 
upper station. La Hon tan left Michilimackinac on 
his way to the Great River, following the route of 
Joliet and Marquette, witnessing the calumet dance 
in his honor at the mouth of the Fox, and passing 
thence to the upper river, from which he made the 
portage to the Wisconsin. 

When the Mississippi was reached he went north- 
ward, and, as he says, entered a river coming into 
Lake Pepin from the west, which he speaks of as 
'^ the Long River. ^^ At this point the critics challenge 

H (161) 



162 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

him. They find nothing that corresponds to his 
description, and yet the Baron, unconscious of the 
froAvniug tribunal, loads his readers up the mysteri- 
ous stream, past great Indian villages and through a 
marvelous country in the months of November and 
December, when all other rivers, of that section at 
least, are sealed with ice before Christmas. 

Nicollet, however, has an excuse for this. He finds 
a similarity between La Hontan's '' Long River ^' and 
Cannon River, which, he says, is one of the last to 
freeze, and is generally a late resort of wild fowl. 
He finds, moreover, evidences of old Indian villages 
along the course of this stream, by a kind of grass 
that always grows where settlements have been, but 
he adds that he ^^does not pretend to justify La lion- 
tan's gross exaggeration of the length of the river, 
and of the numerous population on its banks.'' 

Nicollet's view is no doubt a just one. La llontan 
knew that others were more or less familiar with that 
part of the Mississippi which he described, and that it 
would not be long before his relations would be put 
to the test. Perrot had been all through the region 
— that is, as far as any one had gone — and knew every 
part of it; yet the discoverer of '''the Long River" 
did not hesitate to publish, with elaborate detail, the 
account of his voyage. 

The geogra^^hers of Europe, quick to make addi- 
tions to their incomplete maps of North America, 
soon gave the stream a prominent place; but the 
French, never over-credulous, did not accept it with- 
out question, and in 1716, a priest of Versailles wrote 
to De L'Isle, geographer of the Academy of Sci- 
ences, *' Would it not be well to efface that great 
river which La Hontan says he discovered? All the 



LA HONTAN^ — CHARLEVOIX— CARVER. 163 

Canadians, and even the Governor-general, have told 
me that this river is unknown;^' while Charlevoix 
makes the sweeping assertion that ^^the episode of 
the voyage up the Long River is as fabulous as the 
Barrataria of Sancho Panza." 

'When La Hontan re-enters the Mississippi, his 
account is more charitably received. Li his descent 
of the river he made a partial exploration of the Mis- 
souri and Saint Peter, which has placed him among 
the men who first pushed beyond known boundaries, 
and which has won for him the honor of being the 
discoverer of those two great tributaries. 

Charlevoix, a man of ability and honor, was 
commissioned by the French government to visit New 
France in 1721, for the purpose of describing its con- 
dition and possibilities. Had he not accepted this 
commission, La Hontan would have had one critic 
less, and Europe, figuratively on tip-toe with curios- 
ity, would have been deprived of one of the truest 
pictures of the affairs of her sister continent; but 
Charlevoix was a Jesuit, and an observer who had 
already spent four years in Canada, and he did not let 
pass an opportunity for wider travel. 

Peaching Quebec in the spring of 1721, he began 
his journey westward, writing at frequent intervals 
to his friend the Countess Lesdigueres, who has in 
turn bequeathed the letters to history. On his way 
to Three Rivers he tells her that he set out from 
Pointe aux Trembles ^' with a horse blind of an eye, 
which he afterward exchanged for a lame one, and 
then again for one that was broken-winded." 

Following the route which had attracted all of the 
early travelers — up the Saint Lawrence and through 
the lakes — he modified, on the way, many of their 



164 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

wild exaggerations and added many details of his 
own. On Lake Superior he learned the strange tra- 
ditions of the Indians in regard to the vast inland sea, 
which they believed was formed by Michabon, the 
god of the waters, to supply them with beaver. Hg 
found pieces of copper on its shores, and says that one 
of the priests of his order, belonging to the mission of 
Saint Mary's, had found large quantities of it in so 
pure a state that he was able to make ornaments of 
it for the mission chapel. 

From Lake Michigan he entered the Saint Joseph, 
crossing to the Kankakee, and thence down to the 
Mississippi, where the light birch-bark canoes were 
exchanged for heavier boats; but the men, accustomed 
to light paddles, made awkward work of rowing, and 
Pere Charlevoix, in his hollowed-out '^^ walnut tree," 
found it perilous, as well as interesting, to descend 
the Mississippi. He enjoyed his experiences, how- 
ever, and wrote enthusiastic descriptions of the beau- 
ties of the scenery and the pleasures of unconven- 
tional travel, which, he said' recalled the ancient 
Patriarchs, who lived' in tents and had no fixed place 
of abode. 

During his journey down the river, Charlevoix 
made frequent excursions on the tributary streams 
and into the adjacent country, and, traveling thus 
leisurely, reached in December the straggling huts of 
New Orleans, which, viewed from Versailles by the 
French Monarch and his extravagant subjects, 
appeared a future center of unlimited wealth. Char- 
levoix himself, coming upon it at a time when 
enthusiasm for its future was at its height, believed 
that this city, " the first which one of the greatest 
rivers of the world has seen rise upon its banks/' 



LA HOI^TAN — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. 165 

^^ the wild and desert place still covered by canes and 
trees/^ would one day be an opulent city and the 
metropolis of a great and rich colony. This^, how- 
ever^ was his opinion when he had but entered the 
place. After looking about and taking a careful 
account of its position he wrote in quite another 
strain. He could not s^e the obstacles overcome by 
science after the marvelous strides of a century and a 
half^ nor the power of steam upon the Great Eiver, 
which would insure the prosperity of the " Crescent 
City." From here he sent the last of his witty let- 
ters to the Countess^ by which his personal experi- 
ences in the New World close. Upon his return to 
Europe he published his ^'History of New France," 
which is valued now quite as much as when little 
was known of North America, while its author will 
always hold an important place in the scenes which 
he describes. 

After Charlevoix, Captain Jon^athan Carver 
was the next explorer of importance in the Valley 
of the Mississippi, and the variation from the long- 
line of Spanish and French names which followed in 
succession from the early discovery of the river, tells at 
once of the great change which had made the English 
masters and dissolved the power of New France. 
Carver himself bore arms in his country^s cause, 
barely escaping the massacre of Fort William Henry, 
and winning his captaincy by the same spirit which 
two generations before had given the governorship of 
Connecticut to an ancestor. 

When peace was declared, the young captain deter- 
miued to explore the newly acquired British posses- 
sions, that government miglit be acquainted with 
their extent and condition. He also had in mind 



166 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

the discovery of a northwest passage between Hud- 
son's Bay and the Pacific Ocean; and with these 
objects in view left Boston in June, 1766. At Macki- 
nac the English governor of the fort gave him a 
small supply of goods for use among the Indians, 
promising to send him more to Saint Anthony Falls; 
and with this equipment he started with his men — 
one a French -Canadian and the other a Mohawk. 
As far as Prairie du Chien he had the company of 
two traders, but there the party separated, Carver 
going on up the river. 

On the tenth day, at evening, the encampment was 
made and the boats moored near the shore. As soon as 
it was dark, Carver, as usual, ordered his men to take 
their rest, while he sat up to write his notes by the light 
of a candle. About ten o'clock, stepping out of his 
tent to see what the weather was, he saw at a little dis- 
tance something that had the appearance of a herd 
of beasts, but, unable to distinguish them in the 
starlight, he stood closely watching their movements. 
Suddenly one of their number raised up and disclosed 
the figure of a man. Carver, recognizing the situa- 
tion, gave the alarm, and his men, having snatched 
their weapons, started in the direction of the boat, 
toward which the savages were hurrying. ^^What 
do you want?'' called out the bold Yankee, where- 
upon the Indians, evidently wanting only to escape 
alive from such an awe-inspiring white chief, fled 
precipitately to the woods, where Carver gave up the 
pursuit. The men were now badly friglitened and 
wanted to turn back, but Carver, knowing the most 
effectual cure, threatened to call them ^'^old women," 
and by his own example shamed them. 

Below Lake Pepin the explorer discovered a strange 



LA HOKTAN" — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. 167 

relic of the past^ which led him — as such discoveries 
have led many others — to think that this continent, 
whose ancient history is an unsolved mystery, 
was once the home of civilized nations. He found 
the grass-grown remains of a carefully constructed 
intrenchment, jirotected in the rear by the river, and 
bearing the imprint of centuries. 

From here he went to Saint Anthony Falls and 
then on as far as the Saint Francis, a distance which 
had been reached only by Father Hennepin and him- 
self. Then paddling up the Saint Peter, he came to 
a north branch which had not been named, and in 
order to distinguish it he called it '^^ Carver " Eiver, 
by which name it is still known. 

By the seventh of December he reached the west- 
ern limit of his travels. Through the dishonesty of 
the men intrusted with supplies from Mackinac, it was 
impossible to go farther, and he was detained for the 
winter at the Sioux village at the head of the Saint 
Peter. Here he learned their language and received 
the honors of a great chief, for, by a service which 
he had rendered one of the "^^ river bands,'^ his fame 
had reached the farthest lodges. The event which 
had won him this distinction took place during his 
ascent of the river. He was stopping a day or two 
with the Indians at their encampment when some 
hunters of the band announced that a war-party of 
the Chippewas was approaching, large enough, they 
said, *^^to swallow them all up." 

The Sioux, terrified by this news, begged their 
guest to lead them to battle, believing in the superior 
powers of the white, man; but Carver, unwilling to 
antagonize the Chippewas, and yet wishing to retain 
the good-will of the Sioux, knew not what to answer. 




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LA H0:N"TAIT — CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. 169 

In this extremity, lie offered to act as mediator, 
although the Indians doubted his success, as their 
peace-pipes had been repeatedly disregarded. Carver, 
however, started toward the enemy, as the brave 
Tonty had done before him, and so completely won 
over the chiefs that the war-party turned back, while 
the delighted Sioux quickly decamped before the 
enemy had time to repent of their action. 

Early in the spring the Indians prepared to visit 
the cave below the present city of Saint Paul, which 
they called the dwelling of the Great Spirit, where 
they held their councils. 

On the way down the river, the party was overtaken 
by a terrific storm. The Indians, terrified and imag- 
ining it to be a sign of the wrath of the Great Spirit, 
rushed into the woods; but Carver, who had accom- 
panied them, afraid to be near the trees, stood out in 
an open space, while the savages looked on with 
superstitious admiration. 

Having been admitted to the great council at the 
cave, and honored with the title of chief, Carver 
made use of this incident to impress the minds of his 
hearers. ^' You may remember," he said, ^^the day 
when we were encamped at Wadej^aw Mijiesoter, the 
black clouds, the wind, the fire, the stupendous noise, 
the horrible cracks, and the trembling of the earth, 
which then alarmed you and gave you reason to think 
your gods were angry with you; not unlike these are 
the warlike implements of the English when they 
are fighting the battles of their great King." 

At this council the gift of land was supposed to 
have been agreed upon which made Carver and his 
heirs owners of a large tract of land on tlie Upper Mis- 
sissippi, and over which there has since been much liti- 



170 EARLY EXPLORERS. 

gation; but, as there was not sufficient proof of such 
a grant having been made; as Carver himself does not 
mention it in his writings, and as the King had made 
a proclamation three years before forbidding private 
individuals to buy or accept land from the Indians, 
the court having the case in hand settled it by resolv- 
ing '^ that the prayer of the petitioners be not 
granted/' The cave in which the meeting took place 
is now known as ''^Carver's Cave/^ 

Disappointed in not finding his supplies at the 
Falls, and obliged to abandon further exj^loration. 
Carver left his Sioux friends and started down the 
river for Prairie du Chien. On the way he Avas surprised 
by a party of Chippewas, and, fearing it might be 
the same which had attempted to plunder him some 
time before, he was inclined to avoid them; but he 
knew the Indians too well to show such a disposition, 
and finally crossed the river to their camp. A few of 
the savages came down to the shore to meet him, 
extendina: their hands in welcome: but back of them 
stood their chief, a tall fellow, painted and tattooed, 
who fiercely watched the strangers. Carver, deter- 
mined not to' betray any signs of awe, approached 
this august personage and extended his hand^ The 
chief witl)held his, and, scowling down upon the 
white men, said in Chippewa, ^'English no good." 
Carver did not like the way the Indian grasped his 
tomahawk, and said he expected the laconic sentence 
would be followed by a blow; but drawing his pistol 
from his belt, he carelessly played with it as he j)assed 
the chief, and in token of his fearlessness resolved to 
remain with the Indians that night. 

Early in the morning he continued his way to 
Prairie du Chien, and having attended to his affairs 



LA HONTAN"— CHARLEVOIX — CARVER. 171 

there^ re-ascended the river witli the intention of 
reaching Mackinac by way of Lake Superior. Enter- 
ing the Chippewa River, he crossed to a branch of 
the Saint Croix, descended it to the fork, and thence 
up another branch to the source. From here the 
boats were launched on a little brook, which, strug- 
gling along, was gradually increased by rivulets, and 
at last developed into a swift stream, and on they 
paddled to the great lake. 

From Mackinac, Carver hurried eastward, reach- 
ing Boston in October, 1768, from whence he sailed 
for England. There he re2:)orted to the Government, 
asking for reimbursements and the privilege of dis- 
posing of his manuscripts. The last petition was 
granted, but the explorer was afterward requested to 
deliver np all of his papers. This obliged him to 
buy back his manuscript at an advance, but no com- 
pensation was made him. He then obtained a j/osi- 
tion of clerk in a lottery office, but reverses overtook 
him, and finally, at the age of forty-eight, he died of 
want in the heart of the great metropolis. 

With him ends the long line of the early explorers 
of the Great River. Each, looking upon the splen- 
did stream and the valley it enriched, had prophe- 
sied; but none so well as this last, who said: " There 
is no doubt but that, at some future period, mighty 
kingdoms will emerge from these wildernesses, and 
stately palaces and solemn temples, with gilded spires 
reaching to the skies, supplant the Indian huts, 
whose only decorations are the barbarous trophies of 
their vanquished enemies. ''' 



PART SECOND. 



■:0: 



EXPLORATION 



or THE 



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SUBJECTS: 

Chapter Pag:e 

I. EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE.... 175 

II. THE CASS EXPEDITION 180 

III. BELTRAMI AND THE "JULIAN SOURCE". 185 

IV. SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA 197 

V. INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET 208 

VI. EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN 218 













CHAPTER I. 




EXPEDITIONS OF LIEUTENANT PIKE. 

EBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE 

was the son of a captain in the Revo- 
kitionary army, and was the first 
of the more recent explorers of the 
^^^1^^^^^^ Mississippi and the country border- 
^rWif: ing upon it. He was born January 

fifth, 1779, at Lambertville, New Jersey, a village 
near the Delaware River, but received his education 
at Easton, Pennsylvania, whither the family had jire- 
viously removed. At the age of twenty he became 
an ensign in his father's regiment, and in 1806 had 
attained the rank of captain. 

After the purchase of Louisiana from the French 
in 1803, General Wilkinson was appointed by the 
United States Government to the military command 
of the Territory, with headquarters at Saint Louis. 
This immense acquisition embraced all the country 
west of the Mississippi River and east of the Rocky 
Mountains, and from the Mexican dominions on the 
south to Canada on the north. A desire was soon 
felt by the Government and people to learn some- 
thing of the new region, and an order was received 
by the general commanding to detach a competent 

(175) 



176 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

officer for the work of exploration. Lieutenant Pike 
was selected for the undertaking and ordered to pro- 
ceed up the Mississippi to its Headwaters, and, if 
practicable, trace it to its ultimate source. 

Physically and mentally, Pike was well equipped 
for the work, and would probably have succeeded in 
his attempt to reach the head of the river if he had been 
better advised, before starting, of the difficulties he 
would" have to encounter. He was eager for the work 
assigned him, and, with twenty men under his com- 
mand, left Saint Louis, the capital of the newly- 
acquired Territory, August ninth, 1805, and com- 
menced the ascent of the river. He» labored under 
great disadvantages, which materially affected the 
results of his expedition. He was four months too late 
in the season to reach his destination, and was with- 
out an aide, or even a scientific observer. He knew 
nothing of the climate of the region he was about to 
visit, and neither guide nor interpreter had been 
assigned him by the authorities. That he accom- 
plished what he did is altogether owing to his energy, 
vigilance, and enterprise, his knowledge of hunting 
and forest life, and his habits of mental and military 
discipline. After great labor, many adventures, and 
some casualties, he reached a point one hundred and 
twenty miles north of Saint Anthony Falls, and here 
winter overtook him. The absence of all preparation 
against the intense cold resulted in much suffering 
and danger to life. To protect himself and his men, 
he devoted twelve days to the erection of a block- 
house as a temporary shelter, and after a short rest 
for recuperation, determined on resuming his journey 
up the river, which was covered with snow to a 
depth of several feet. Leaving a small detachment 



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178 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

of his disabled men and his boats in charge of a non- 
commissioned officer at the block-house, he set forth 
on roughly constructed snow-shoes, with small hand- 
siedges, and, by great energy and perseverance, 
reached, at successive periods, Sandy Lake, Leech 
Lake, and ultimately advanced as far north as Upper 
Eed Cedar Lake, now known as Cass Lake, an expan- 
sion of the Mississippi, in latitude 47° 42' 30". The 
whole region was covered with a mantle of snow. 
Here he met some straggling members of the North- 
west Fur Company, of Montreal, who welcomed the 
explorer to their winter quarters, and extended to 
the party the usual hospitality to travelers. 

Pike explained that the object of his visit was to 
discover the Source of the Mississippi, and was in- 
formed by the fur traders that the extreme Head of 
the river was in Turtle Lake, in confirmation of which 
they produced a roughly-sketched map of the section. 
Believing that he had now accomplished the object 
of his mission, he made no further effort in that 
direction, but prepared for a speedy return to Saint 
Louis. Nine months had ela2:)sed since leaving its 
genial climate for the frozen North, during which 
interval he and his party of sturdy soldiers had under- 
gone much suifering from the rigor of the long- 
continued winter — intensified by the absence of prep- 
aration in the shape of warm clothing and a proper 
supply of food. 

The narrative of the Pike expedition was not pub- 
lished until 1810, in which Turtle Lake is assumed to 
be the Source of the Great River, which, however, 
has been conclusively disproved by more recent 
explorers. 

In 1806-7, Pike was again despatched by the Gov- 



EXPEDITIONS OE LIEUTENANT PIKE. 179 

ernment on a geographical exploration over parts of 
the immense Territory of Louisiana, in the course 
of which he reached the front range of the Eocky 
Mountains, and discovered what is known as Pike's 
Peak, 14,336 feet in height above the sea, on the 
summit of which there is now a United States signal 
station. The headwaters of the Eio Grande River 
were also reached. He was here taken prisoner by 
the Spaniards for being found on Spanish territory, 
and conveyed to Santa Fe, now the capital of New 
Mexico, where all his papers were seized; but, after 
trial, he was released and ordered to leave the coun- 
try. He reached Nachitoches, about twenty-five 
miles from th'e Texas line, July first, 1807, and 
received the thanks of the Government for his enter- 
prise and successful labors. As a reward he was 
promoted from the rank of major, in the following 
year to that of lieutenant-colonel, and in 1812, to 
that of assistant quartermaster-general. 

In 1813, Pike was appointed to the command of 
an expedition against York, Upper Canada. He 
reached York with the fleet conveying the troops for 
the attack. The general, with the main body, landed, 
and the enemy falling back before him, he captured 
the main redoubt and halted his men. While Gen- 
eral Pike and many of his soldiers were resting on 
tlieir arms, preparatory to an attack on the next 
redoubt, the magazine of the fort exploded, and, 
being fatally injured, he survived but a few hours. 
He died April twenty-seventh, 1813, and bears the 
reputation of a brave and zealous officer. 



CHAPTER II. 



THE CASS EXPEDlTIOi^^. 




'FTER an interval of nearly fifteen years, 
the enterprising soldier and states- 
man, General Cass, Governor of 
Michigan Territory, tendered his 
services to the Government as an 
explorer in the little-known region 
of the Great Lakes and the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi, pre- 
vionsly visited by Pike. 

Lewis Cass was born in Exeter, New Hampshire, 
October ninth, 1782. He was the eldest son of Jona- 
than Cass, a captain in the Continental Army during 
the War of the Revolution. On the conclusion of 
peace with England, he was promoted to the rank of 
major and assigned to General Wayne's command, 
then in the territory northwest of the Ohio. Lewis 
remained with the family in Exeter and attended the 
academy. Major Cass, in 1799, removed his family 
to Wilmington, Delaware, in which town Lewis be- 
came a SQccessful school-teacher. 

The following year found the major and his family 
on their way to the West. They descended the Ohio 
from Pittsburg in a flat-boat, and traveled on foot for 
many miles. They reached Marietta, the pioneer 
town of Southern Ohio, in October, 1800, and near 
here the family settled upon a tract of land granted 
Major Cass by the Government in consideration of 

C180) 



THE CASS EXPEDITIOiq". 181 

his military service. The site was on Muskingum 
River, near Zanesville. Lewis, however, remained at 
Marietta and studied law in the office of Governor 
Meigs. He was admitted to the bar in 1803, and 
began practice in Zanesville. He married Elizabeth 
Spencer, of Virginia, in 1806, and shortly after 
became a member of the Ohio Legislature. 

The supposed treasonable movements of Aaron Burr 
were at this period a source of uneasiness to the Gov- 
ernment, and Lewis Cass, being on the committee ap- 
pointed by the local Legislature to inquire into Burr's 
proceedings, framed a law authorizing the authorities 
to arrest the men and capture the material provided 
for their expedition down the Ohio. He also drew up 
an official communication to the President, express- 
ing the views of the Ohio Legislature on the subject 
of Burr's designs and movements. President Jeffer- 
son's attention was attracted to this able document, 
and he appointed the author marshal of the State. 

On the breaking out of the second war with England, 
in 1812, Cass joined the forces at Dayton under the 
command of General Hull, with the rank of colonel 
of the Third Ohio Volunteers, proceeding at once to 
Detroit. When the army crossed the Detroit River 
into Canada, Colonel Cass was in command of the 
advance guard, and drove in the British outposts. 
Shortly after this, General Hull surrendered to the 
enemy, and Cass was included in the capitulation and 
paroled. He forthwith proceeded to Washington and 
reported the surrender to the Government. He was 
soon exchanged as a prisoner on parole, and was at 
once appointed to the Twenty-seventh Regiment of 
Infantry, and, shortly afterward, promoted to the 
rank of brigadier-general. 



182 EXPLORATION^ OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

At the close of the campaign, General Cass was 
placed in command of the Territory of Michigan, 
with headquarters at Detroit. He also received the 
appointment of Civil Grovernor of the^Territory. 

In 1814, Governor Cass, associated with General 
Harrison, was authorized to treat with the Indians of 
Michigan, who had been hostile to the United States 
during the war. The greater part of Michigan was 
at this period a vast wilderness, inhabited by about 
fifty thousand savage Indians. No surveys had been 
made and no roads had been opened, the Indians 
being relentless in their hostility to any encroach- 
ment of the whites, who numbered only some five or 
six thousand, inclusive of the settlers in Detroit. 
Under these discouraging circumstances, Cass as- 
sumed the responsibilities of Governor and Superin- 
tendent of Indian affairs in the Territory. 

The Northwestern Territory was, up to this period, 
imperfectly known, and, at the suggestion of Gov- 
ernor Cass, an expedition was organized in 1820, in 
which he himself bore a conspicuous part. Accom- 
panied by Schoolcraft, the geologist and ethnol- 
ogist, and six other gentlemen, with Indian guides, 
they embarked on the twenty-fourth of May, at 
Detroit, in three large canoes, for the exploration of 
the Great Lakes and the Headwaters of the Mississippi. 
The nearest approach they made to the Source of the 
Great River was at Upper Cedar Lake, subsequently 
named Cass Lake, about two hundred miles to the 
north of the lake now recognized as the True Head. 
Before returning to Detroit, the expedition had 
traversed five thousand miles of the Northwestern 
country. 

General Cass was appointed Secretary of War by 




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^ 



(183) 



184 EXPLORATIOK OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

President Jackson in 1831, and during his incum- 
bency the Black Hawk War occurred. In 1836, he 
submitted an elaborate report to Congress upon the 
military defenses of the United States, and shortly' 
after resigned his secretaryship and was appointed 
United States minister to France. In January, 1845, 
he was elected a member of the United States Sen- 
ate, and was subsequently re-elected for a second 
term. He was a prominent candidate for the Presi- 
dency, but was unsuccessful. In Mr. Buchanan's 
administration he became Secretary of State. During 
the Civil War his sympathies were with the North, 
and his life was spared to witness the ultimate 
triumph of the Government over a rebellion that for 
a time threatened its existence. 

General Cass was a scholar of fine attainments 
and a prudent and cautious legislator. He was also 
personally popular throughout the country. He pub- 
lished several works, among them, '^Inquiries Con- 
cerning the History, Traditions, and Languages of 
the Indians Living within the United States, ^"^ and 
'^France, Its King, Court, and Government.'' He 
died at Detroit, January seventeenth, 1866, at the 
age of eighty-four. 




CHAPTEE III. 



BELTRAMI AND THE ''' JULIA:N" SOURCE." 



I lACOMO Constantino Beltrami, a native 
of Bergamo, in the Republic of Venice, 
son of Giambattista and Catterina Bel- 
trami, was born in 1779, the youngest 
of ten children. His father held an 
influential position as Chief of the Cus- 
toms of the Republic, and the youngest 
son was educated for the law. At the 
age of twenty-eight he was appointed judge of the 
Court at Udine. By untiring zeal he gained the ap- 
probation of the Government, and was promoted to 
the office of judge of the Civil and Criminal Court. 
The extraordinary energy and capacity shown by him 
in certain important matters of state led the Minister 
of Justice to write and compliment him on his suc- 
cess, at the same time predicting his elevation to the 
President's chair of the Court, for which he had 
already been proposed to the French Emperor. This 
promise, however, was never realized, the Empire 
having met with severe reverses which crip]3led its 
exercise of authority over the foreign states annexed 
to France. In some way it was, moreover, strongly 
suspected that Beltrami had become involved in the 
political schemes of the Carbonari — a powerful secret 
society pervading Europe — whose aim was the 
destruction of the Empire and the deposition of all 

(185) 



186 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

despots. In deference to the French, he was ordered 
into exile without trial. This was in 1821. 

Beltrami had a passion for the acquisition of lan- 
guages, both ancient and modern, and while still 
young had become familiar with Latin and Greek 
literature, and also with several modern languages. 
Frank and faithful in his intercourse with men, he 
was an enemy to all kinds of flattery and obsequious- 
ness, and was, at the same time, capable of great 
self-denial for the sake of principle. He was well 
known to be a patriot, and had suffered persecution, 
ending in expatriation, to which latter he submitted 
without complaint, but loving his country none the 
less. 

On quitting his native land, he traveled through 
France, England, and Germany, and made many 
friends among the literati of the continent, and, in 
1822, crossed the ocean to the United States. At 
this period he was about forty-four years of age. 

Finding himself now in the New World, with 
whose history he was entirely familiar, parts of which, 
he soon learned, were still little known to the inhab- 
itants, his mind turned to travel and exploration. 
The Valley of the Mississippi was a point of great 
interest to him, and, desiring to know more concern- 
ing it than he could gather from books, he proceeded 
to Pittsburg, descended the Ohio Eiver in company 
with Major Talioferra — a fellow-countryman long 
settled in America, an officer in the United States 
army, and agent for Indian affairs on the Upper Mis- 
sissippi — and embarked with him for Fort Snelling, 
Minnesota, which they reached May twentieth, 1823. 
It was his wish to accompany Major Talioferra up the 
River Saint Peter, at that time unexplored, with the 



BELTEAMI AND THE ''JULIAIf SOURCE/' 187 

intention of proceeding farther toward the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi. ^' Major Talioferra/' says 
Beltrami, in ' A Pilgrimage in Europe and America/ 
*^had led me to entertain the hope that we should 
have proceeded together up the Eiver Saint Peter, 
which has never yet been explored, the source 
of which is occupied by the most wild and powerful 
tribes of Sioux, and, as yet, only vaguely defined, 
while the surrounding territory abounds in buffalo. 
It was my intention to proceed thence to the sources 
of the Mississippi, which are still absolutely unknown. 

" Thwarted in my project, I was on the point of 
changing my direction for the south, intending to 
traverse by land, with a Canadian interpreter and an 
Indian guide, the desert tracts which separate Fort 
Snelling from Council Bluffs. But at this period. 
Major Long, of the United States Topographical 
Engineers, arrived at the Fort, charged with an expe- 
dition to the northern boundary of the vast empire 
of the United States. I participated in the very 
great surprise manifested by the Fort at the arrival 
of an expedition so completely unknown to the 
garrison." 

Beltrami's great desire of pushing his rambles far- 
ther north was mentioned to Major Long, and the 
former asked permission to accompany the expedition 
simply in the character of a foreigner who was anx- 
ious to see the country and to study the Indian char- 
acter. An attempt was made to dissuade him from 
this. The sufferings and dangers he would have to 
encounter were set before him, but at these he simply 
laughed as childish terrors. Continuing he says: 
*^ They next attacked me on what they thought my 
weak side — my purse. After so long a digression 



188 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

from my original route, which was to lead me direct 
from Philadelphia to New Orleans, it might reasonably 
be supposed to be rather in a declining state; the 
more so, as the curiosities I had bought of the savages 
had greatly contributed to diminish its contents. 
But a little fund which I kept in reserve disconcerted 
this attack also. I even sacrificed my beautiful 
repeater, that I might leave this still untouched, and 
bought a horse, and all jjrovisions that were said to be 
necessary, with the proceeds. When they saw I was 
determined to go, the amiable Snelling family 
carried their politeness so far as to offer me pecuniary 
assistance, with the most honorable and disinterested 
confidence, a thing by no means common, especially 
toward a person of whom they knew nothing but what 
they had seen." 

The expedition of Major Long consisted of himself 
as chief, an astronomer, a mineralogist, a physician, 
a zoologist, an artist, an interpreter for the Sioux, a 
young Canadian interpreter for the Algonquin lan- 
guage, twenty-eight troopers, one officer, and Mr. 
Snelling, son of Colonel Snelling, commandant of the 
Fort. 

*^ So many imaginary difficulties," says Beltrami, 
'^were not auspicious. I foresaw all the vexations I 
should have to experience. * * * jyjy intention 
of going in search of the real sources of the Missis- 
sippi was always before my eyes. I was therefore 
obliged to sacrifice my pride, and my feeling of what 
was due to me, to the desire of seeing places which 
one can hardly expect to visit twice in one's life, and 
of gaining information one can gain nowhere else; 
and I gave myself up to all I foresaw I should have 
to endure from littleness and jealousy." 



BELTRAMI AND THE ''JULIAN SOURCE." 189 

Beltrami was possessed of a restless and adventur- 
ous spirit^ and accordingly made his arrangements, 
despite all discouragement, to accompany Major 
Long^'s expedition through Northern Minnesota to 
Pembina, on the Eed River of the North. They left 
Fort Snelling on the evening of July seventh, 1822. 
The expedition was divided into two bodies, one of 
which went by land with twenty horses; the other 
embarked in five Indian canoes on the Eiver Saint 
Peter. ''The Major traveled by canoe," says Bel- 
trami, "and I followed him, with the intention of 
going sometimes by water and sometimes by land 
according to the curious or interesting objects either 
route might offer." It* was arranged that the two 
divisions should meet every evening. 

The first evening the entire party encamped on the 
southern bank of the Saint Peter, near the village of 
the chief. Black Dog, which Beltrami visited, but 
found vacant. " Hunger had roused these savages," 
he says, "from their habitual indolence, and had 
driven them aAvay to hunt deer and buffalo in more 
distant forests and prairies. A hut, which was shut 
and which I opened, afforded me some shelter from 
the mosquitoes, which attacked me on every side. 
Behind the door I found, hung like a curtain, a deer- 
skin, which the savages doubtless looked upon as the 
guardian mamtou of their dwelling. * * * ^y^ 
dined at the Prairie des Frangois, so called from the 
first Frenchmen who pushed their discoveries from 
Canada to this spot, where they were all killed by the 
Indians." Proceeding up the Saint Peter, when sixty 
miles from the Fort the travelers by canoe encount- 
ered a violent rapid, and Avere compelled to disem- 
bark and drag their canoes through the water. It is 



190 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

described as a most romantic spot. ^' Rocks, pictur- 
esquely grouped, between which the winding stream 
rushes and breaks with violence; a little woody island 
in the middle; banks clothed with stately trees on the 
one side, and broken into steep and rugged rocks on 
the other, composed a varied and interesting picture, 
to which I contrived to add a touch of the grotesque. 
Being obliged to get on board the canoe to cross a 
deep gulf, my sailors were so deficient, either in 
strength or in skill, that they suffered it to be carried 
away and dashed in pieces against a rock, upon which 
I remained perched. ^^ 

In the evening the expedition halted at an Indian 
encampment, and Beltrami, always observant, wit- 
nessed what he calls a most curious contrast. • ' A 
woman in the deepest affliction was tearing off her 
hair, which she offered as a sacrifice to the spirit of 
some dead relative, whose lifeless remains were 
stretched upon a rude scaffold, while a group of sav- 
ages were eating, drinking, singing, and dancing 
around another dead body, exposed in the same man- 
ner to the view of passers-by. ^^ 

July thirteenth they all proceeded by land. One 
of the interpreters pointed out the direction in which 
the Blue Earth River falls into the Saint Peter. 
"^This was the highest point of the Saint Peter 
reached by Father Hennepin. The Blue Earth River 
is very celebrated among the Indians. They perform 
an annual pilgrimage to it to collect the blue earth off 
its banks, of which they make dye and paint. '^ 

Lake Traverse was reached July twenty-fourth — 
two hundred and eighty miles north-northwest of 
Fort Snelling. It is on one of the highest plateaus 
of North America. ''It has no tributary streams,^' 



BELTRAMI AND THE ''JULIAN SOURCE." 191 

Beltrami asserts, " and no one knows whence it 
derives its waters/' Its length is about eighteen miles 
and its width about four miles. 

The party took leave of Lake Traverse with a salute 
of musketry. The country around was all prairie, 
and the buffaloes appeared for the first time in large 
numbers, one of which was shot by Beltrami. 

On July thirty-first, the expedition reached the Eed 
River, which descends from the eastward through 
a lake of the same name. To quote Beltrami: 
"Geographers tell us that it takes its appellation 
from the red sand or gravel which covers its bed; 
but there is nothing red about it. The origin of 
its name is widely different. The river and the 
lake form the frontier line which separates the ter- 
ritory of the Sioux from that of the Chippewas. It 
may be easily imagined that the waters of a stream 
so situated must have often been ' red with the blood 
of the slain,' and that it has thus received from both 
the contending parties the name of the Bloody 
River. The lake is in like manner called the Bloody or 
Red Lake." 

On August third the expedition arrived at the cel- 
ebrated colony of Pembina, founded by the Earl of 
Selkirk — two hundred and sixty miles from Lake 
Traverse. 

Altogether dissatisfied with his surroundings, Bel- 
trami left the colony on the ninth in company with 
an interpreter and two Chippewas. He traveled in a 
southeasterly direction, and on the fourth day killed 
two white bears. '' The white bear," he asserts, '' is 
the only wild beast of these regions that is danger- 
ous. He always attacks the traveler. The black 
bear is timid, and, on the approach of man, betakes 



192 EXPLORATION?" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

himself to flight. He feeds entirely on fruits during 
summer and autumn. When the cold weather com- 
mences he hides himself in the hollow of some tree 
or in a hole he digs for himself in the earth. Here 
he remains completely motionless for the whole win- 
ter." 

On the fifth day out from Pembina^ still proceed- 
ing in a southeasterly direction, Beltrami and his 
companions arrived at Eobber's River, which, he 
explains, was so named because a Sioux, in his flight 
from the vengeance which had been pronounced 
against him for murder, kept himself concealed, and 
robbed on this spot for several years, escaping the 
observation of his persecutors and enemies, by whom 
he was surrounded. 

The interpreter was compelled to leave him here, 
and he was therefore alone with the two Indians. 
These also shortly left, to proceed to their destinations. 
This occurred on August fifteenth. After encount- 
ering many difiiculties and dangers, pulling his canoe 
up the stream — as he was unable to handle the paddle 
with the dexterity required — he met, on the morning 
of the eighteenth, two canoes filled with Indians, 
including women and children, and persuaded one of 
the men to accompany him as far as Eed Lake. On 
reaching the lake, another interpreter joined him — 
the son of a Canadian fur trader and an Indian woman. 
His hut was twelve miles distant, which they reached 
on the tAventy-first. 

Having rested a few days with the Canadian, Bel- 
trami left Red Lake on the morning of the twenty- 
sixth, in the direction of Great Portage River. This 
stream, he says, is so called by the Indians because a 
dreadful storm that occurred on it blew down a vast 




13 



(193) 



194 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

number of forest trees on its banks, which perfectly 
obstructed its channel, and so impeded its navigation 
by canoes as to make an extensive, or '^'^ great port- 
age," necessary. This* impediment, however, does 
not appear to have existed at the time of Beltrami's 
visit, as he embarked in his canoe and proceeded up 
its current. He crossed two lakes formed by the 
river in its course, each about five or six miles in cir- 
cumference. To these lakes he gave the name of the 
Lakes of Wild Rice. After proceeding five or six 
miles farther — always in a southerly direction — he 
entered a large lake, or expansion of the river, 
with a circumference of twenty miles. This lake, he 
states, is situated at a very short distance from high 
lands, which divide the waters flowing northward 
from those which take a southerly direction. He at 
length reached the source of tlie Red River, which, he 
says, ^^S23rings out of the ground in the middle of a 
small ^orairie.'^ * * * '^^ A small hill overhangs the 
source, and I am now," he exclaims, " on the highest 
land of North America. Casting my eye around, I 
perceive the flow of waters — to the south toward the 
Gulf of Mexico; to the north toward tlie Frozen Sea; 
on the east to the Atlantic, and on the west toward 
the Pacific Ocean. A platform crowns this supreme 
elevation, and, what is still more astonishing, in the 
midst of it rises a lake. The source of the Red River 
is at the foot of the hill, and filtrates in a direct line 
from the north bank of the lake. On the other side 
of the hill, toward the south, and equally at the foot 
of the hill, other sources form a beautiful little 
basin about eighty feet in circumference. These 
waters filtrate from the lake on the top of the hill 
toward its southwestern extremity. These sources are 



BELTRAMI AND THE ''JULIAN SOURCE." 195 

the actual sources of the Mississippi. This lake, 
therefore, supplies the most southern source of Eecl 
or Bloody River, and the most northern source of the 
Mississippi — sources until now unknown. The small 
lake has no surface issue and no inlet. Its waters 
hoil up in the middle. All my sounding lines have 
been insufficient to ascertain its depth. The lake is 
about three miles round. It is formed in the shape 
of a heart. I have given it the name of a respected 
lady, and have called it Lake Julia; and the sources 
of the two rivers, the Julian source .of the Red River, 
and the Julian source of the Mississippi — which, 
in the Algonquin language, means Father of Waters. 

'' The Julian source of the Mississippi runs directly 
south by a narrow stream of three miles' length into 
Turtle Lake. If I had not been afraid of adventuring 
my canoe amidst the almost impassable brambles and 
brushwood, I should have commenced the navigation 
of the river from the very spot on which it sj)rings. 
The famous Mississippi, whose course is said to be 
three thousand miles, and which bears navies on its 
bosom, and steamboats superior in size to frigates, is, 
at its source, merely a petty stream of crystalline 
water, concealing itself among reeds and wild rice, 
which seem to exult over its humble birth." 

Beltrami did not visit Lake Itasca. He says it was 
called by the Indians " Biche Lake," from the French 
Lac la Biche or Elk Lake. This lake, he asserts on 
the authority of others, is the western source of the 
Mississippi. 

We may here observe that the Lake Julia of Bel- 
trami is not recognized by geographers as possessing 
any valid or reasonable title to be considered the 
Source of the Mississippi. The stream flowing from it 



196 EXPLOEATIOK OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

is merely an affluent of the Great River, entering it 
over three hundred miles below Lake Itasca. It was 
shown by Schoolcraft that Lake Itasca was at least 
one hundred miles more distant from the mouth of 
the Mississippi than Lake Julia. Beltrami^s enthu- 
siasm led him into an error which is not surprising, 
as little or nothing was known of the region he trav- 
ersed, at the period of his journey south from Pem- 
bina. In common with Pike, Cass, Schoolcraft, 
Nicollet, and others, he fully believed in his alleged 
discovery, which more modern investigation, how- 
ever, has disproved. 

On his return, travel-worn, from the Upper Mis- 
sissip|3i, in the autumn of 1824, he decided to visit 
New Orleans, in which city he remained for a time, 
preparing an account of his travels and discoveries 
for the j)ress. From New Orleans he embarked for 
Mexico, and traversed that country from east to 
west, after which he returned to the United States 
and proceeded to Philadelphia. Here arrangements 
were made for the publication of his book. Return- 
ing to England shortly after, his other works were 
given to the press in London. 

The last years of the life of Beltrami were spent 
on his estate in Italy, surrounded by friends. His 
height was six feet, and it is said he was proud of 
bearing, high-spirited, but always the gentleman. 
His death occurred in February, 1855, at the age of 
seventy-five years. 



CHAPTER IV. 




SCHOOLCRAFT AXD LAKE ITASCA. 

'ENKY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT, who 

succeeded General Cass in Missis- 
sippi exploration, was born in Albany 
County, New York, March twenty- 
eighth, 1793, during the second 
presidential term of Washington. 
His great-grandfather on the paternal side was James 
Calcraft, an Englishman, who, in the reign of George 
11. , embarked with a detachment of troops intended 
to act against the French in Canada. 

At the conclusion of the campaign he remained in 
America, settled in Albany County, and for many 
years conducted a school in this settlement. For 
some unknown reason he changed his family name 
from Calcraft to Schoolcraft, by which he was known 
for some time before his death, which took place at 
the great age of one hundred and two years. His 
son Lawrence was the father of Henry, whose youth 
was spent in the village of Hamilton, about thirty 
miles from Utica. As a boy he showed an inclination 
for study, and while at JMiddlebury College he gave 
much attention to the various branches of science, 
more especially chemistry, mineralogy, geology, and 
ethnology. 

In 1817, at the age of twenty-four, he was led by a 
spirit of enterprise to the Valley of the Mississippi, 
traveling through Missouri and Arkansas. During 

(197) 



198 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

this journey he collected a large number of geolog- 
ical and mineralogical specimens. In 1819 he pub- 
lished a work on the mines and mineral resources of 
Missouri, and proceeded to Washington, where he 
was favorably received by President Monroe, and by 
Calhoun and Crawford, members of the Cabinet. 

Secretary Calhoun, who was struck by the earnest- 
ness of his views and scientific attainments, offered 
him the situation of geologist and mineralogist to an 
exploring expedition which the AVar Department was 
about to dispatch to the Headwaters of the Missis- 
sippi River under the leadership of General Cass. 

The point of embarkation of this expedition was at 
Detroit, where the Indian canoes were secured which 
were to be the chosen conveyances. 

At four o'clock on the afternoon of the twenty- 
fourth of May, 1820, the small fleet was in readiness, 
and in the midst of an interested assemblage the 
voyageurs, with a swift stroke of their paddles, 
pushed away from shore, chanting one of their ani- 
mated boat songs. 

From Lake Saint Clair the expedition moved along 
the southern shore of Lakes Huron and Superior, up 
the Saint Louis River, and by the Savannah to the 
Mississippi, which was ascended as far as Upper Red 
Cedar Lake, named by Schoolcraft, in honor of their 
leader, " Cassina,'' and which, he says in 1820, " may 
be considered the true source of the Mississippi River, 
although the greatest body of water is said to come 
down the Leech Lake Branch. ^^ 

One night was spent on the shore of Cass Lake, 
and, as it was impracticable, at that season of the 
year, to go farther, preparations were made to embark 
before daylight the next morning, the twenty-second 



SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 199 

of July — the very day on which, sixty-one years later, 
my exploring party stood upon the solitary shores of 
the lake beyond Itasca, and knew it to be indeed the 
True Source of the Great River. 

From Cass Lake the party descended the river to 
the Wisconsin, where Schoolcraft obtained permission 
from the Governor to go down to the lead mines of 
Dubuque. Rejoining his companions, the journey 
was commenced to Green Bay, where the party sepa- 
rated, the Governor and his escort going on to 
Detroit, while a detachment under Captain Douglas 
went around Lake Michigan to make a topographical 
survey. The information obtained by this expedition 
concerning the condition of the Indians, the natural 
history and mineralogy of the region along the 
LTpper Lakes made a valuable addition to the popu- 
lar knowledge of the Northwestern frontier, while, 
witli the treaty concluded at the Sault, the safety of 
the country was made much more secure. 

Again, in 1830, Schoolcraft was commissioned to 
lead an expedition into the Upper Mississippi Valley 
to attempt a reconciliation between the Sioux and 
Chippewas, who had renewed their old hostilities; but 
these instructions did not reach him at the Sault 
until August, and he reported that it was then too 
late to undertake such an enterprise, as the Indians 
would have gone to their hunting-grounds, and a 
return would be prevented by the frozen streams. 
The following year these instructions were repeated, 
and arrangements for it were completed at Saint 
Mary's. A geologist and botanist accompanied the 
expedition, and the small body of military were 
under the command of Lieutenant Robert E. Clarv. 

At this time Schoolcraft crossed the '^Head mine" 



200 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

country^ carefully following trails, intercepting war 
parties, and enforcing the peace policy of the Gov- 
ernment. It was evident that measures should 
immediately be taken to quell the discontent rising 
among the different tribes, and a report to this effect 
was sent to Washington. Mr. Calhoun, Secretary of 
War, approved of this suggestion, and Schoolcraft 
was again put in charge of an expedition which was 
to ascertain the condition and sentiment of the tribes 
of the Upper Mississippi. 

A small body of infantry, commanded by Lieuten- 
ant James Allen, escorted the party, and a represen- 
tative of the American Board of Commissioners for 
Foreign Missions joined the expedition to discover 
the needs of the Indians of the region. 

From Saint Mary's the same course was followed 
as in the expedition of 1820. At Sandy Lake a 
council of the lower tribes was called and an appoint- 
ment made to meet them again at the Eiver Des 
Corbeau, and having sent a boat laden with presents 
and supplies down the Mississippi to await his return, 
Schoolcraft went on to Cass Lake, from which point 
he intended to prosecute his explorations about the 
Head of the Mississippi, which he had learned, since the 
expedition of 1820, was to be found beyond Cass Lake. 

On one of the larger islands of this lake, called 
G-rand Island, there was a Chippewa settlement, of 
which Ozawindib was chief; and, as the place was 
favorable for a camp, most of the men were left 
here in charge of an officer, while the explorers of the 
party, embarked in light canoes and proceeded in 
search of the *^ source" of the river. Ozawindib 
volunteered to guide the party. 

Passing westward from Cass Lake the chief brought 



SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 201 

the party to the junction of tlie East and AVest forks 
of the river, but instead of following the larger 
stream which leads directly to Lake Itasca he pushed 
his canoe into the milder current of the East Fork, 
and down this the voyagers paddled. 

A miserable night was spent on the low shore of 
this stream and a day of hard paddling followed; 
incidents which can only be appreciated by those who 
have had similar experiences. 

The region, rich in game, kept the men supplied, 
and a deer was killed beyond Lake Plantagenet; 
^' but we were impelled forward by higher objects 
than hunting, ^^ writes Schoolcraft, and adds: "It 
was, indeed, geographical and scientific facts that we 
were hunting for. To trace to its source an impor- 
tant river, and to fix the actual point of its origin, 
furnished the mental stimulus which led us to care 
but little where we slept or what we ate.'' 

On the thirteenth of June the source of the East 
Fork was reached. From here the ^lortage was com- 
menced over the highlands which surround the 
remoter lakes. The journey now became more diffi- 
cult. An Indian trail was found with the usual 
signs of camps along its route. 

Just below the highlands breakfast was prepared, 
as the men had not broken their fast since starting 
upon the trail at dawn, yet in their eagerness to move 
forward the journey was soon resumed and the labo- 
rious tramp through thicket and marsh begun. 

With a canoe on his back, Ozawindib led the way, 
the voyageurs and members of the expedition follow- 
ing. Gradually the ground began to rise, the under- 
brush became less dense, and Ozawindib, throwing 
the canoe from his shoulders, sat down and lit" his 



202 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

pipe in token that the first ^' Onwaybee/' or rest, was 
reached. At the summit of the last hill, Schoolcraft, 
who had been keejDing close at the chiefs heels, ran 
ahead of him, and, as he says, ^*^got the first glimpse 
of the glittering nymph we had been pursuing/^ 

As there was no time to lose, owing to the pressing 
engagement made by Schoolcraft to meet Indians in 
council on the twenty-fourth of July, at the mouth 
of Crow Wing Eiver, a small fire was at once made 
on the beach for the Indians to melt their pitch and 
repair the canoes. This done, all re-embarked and 
paddled for an island in the center of the lake which 
they had now entered. This island has since been 
named after Schoolcraft. 

Twenty-eight years before, the fur trader, William 
Morrison, had built his cabin on this island, but at 
that time the question of the Source of the river had 
not assumed any especial importance, being generally 
understood to lie somewhere among the upper lakes. 
When, therefore, his successor made known the 
importance of this '^'^ glittering nymph," which he 
had named Itasca, he was given the credit of its 
discovery, since Morrison, either from neglect or 
indifference, had made no mention of it. School- 
craft^s own description of the lake as he saw it at this 
memorable time, is most graphic: ^^ There was not a 
breath of wind. We often rested to behold the scene. 
It is not a lake overhung by rocks. Not a precipice 
is in sight, or a stone, save the pebbles and boulders 
of the drift era which are scattered on the beach. The 
water-fowl, whom we disturbed in their seclusion, 
seemed rather loath to fly up. At one point we 
observed a deer standing in the water and stooping 
down, apparently to eat the moss.' 



>> 




(203) 



204 EXPLORATIOiq' OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

Itasca is indeed a most beautiful and tranquil sheet 
of water^ and characteristically different from the lake 
beyond, which impresses the beholder, not with its 
tranquillity, but with a certain wild and rugged soli- 
tude, perhaps more imposing to a lover of sterner 
aspects. 

At their island camp the travelers busied them- 
selves with their different occupations; Schoolcraft 
studying the geology, the botanist examining the 
plants, while Lieutenant Allen made a rough map of 
the lake. Having faith in the descriptions of his 
guide, the explorer believed that an arm of the lake 
stretched southward, receiving a small brook at its 
extremity, but owing to the limitation of time, and 
to an apparent reliance upon Ozawindib as a topog- 
rapher, no attempt Avas made to verify this fact or 
even to coast the shores. Before tents were struck 
in the afternoon, Schoolcraft directed a flag to be 
hoisted, and having made a cursory examination, 
the party embarked and proceeded down the West 
Fork of the river, en route to Cass Lake. 

Here Ozawindib was dismissed, and the original 
party left in camp on Grand Island, joined the expe- 
dition. Having returned to Leech Lake, Flat-Moutli 
entertained them, and at the council which Schoolcraft 
called there, represented the warriors of his tribe. 

In the course of his remarks this formidable Chip- 
pewa handed the ^'' White Chief ^^ a bundle of forty- 
three small sticks. '^'^This is the number of Leech 
Lake Chippewas killed by the Sioux since the treaty 
of Prairie-du-Chien,^'' then, lifting up a string of 
silver medals, smeared with vermilion, he continued, 
" Take notice, they are bloody. I wish you to wipe 
the blood off, I can not do it. I find myself in a war 



SCHOOLCEAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 205 

with this people, and I believe it has been intended 
by the Creator that we should be at war with them. 
My warriors are brave; it is to them that I owe 
success/'' 

This speech evinced the feelings of the Indians at 
the time of Schoolcraft's visit to the Headwaters of 
the Mississippi. The explorer himself alludes with 
evident forebodings to the uprising under Black 
Hawk on Rock Eiver. and found it necessarv to 
make as imposing a display as possible of the small 
force with him. Several days later the rendezvous 
at the mouth of Crow Wing Eiver was reached, the 
council held, and the usual policy observed. 

In 1832 Schoolcraft was appointed Indian Agent 
for the tribes of the Lake Region, and established his 
headquarters at Mackinaw, where the following year 
he married the grand-daughter of a noted Ojibway 
chief, who had received her education in Europe. 
At the time of his journey to Lake Itasca he was a 
member of the Michigan Legislature, and was subse- 
quently made Assistant Superintendent of Indian 
Affairs. In 1845, he was designated, by the New 
York Legislature, a commissioner to take the census 
of the Indians in the State, and collect information 
concerning the Six Nations, and having performed 
this task to the satisfaction of the authorities, he 
was authorized by Congress to obtain reports relating 
to all the Indian tribes of the country and to collate 
and edit the results of his labors. The remaining 
years of his life were spent in this work. He was 
elected a member of several scientific societies in this 
country and Europe; the degree of LL. D. being 
conferred on him by the University of Geneva. He 
is the author of thirty-one works treating of various 



206 EXPLORATIOJT OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

branches of science in connection with his extended 
explorations through various sections of the country. 
He is also the author of several poems of merit, 
lectures, and numerous reports on Indian subjects. 

In 1852 his Indian wife died, and five years later 
he married Miss Mary Howard of Beaufort, South 
Carolina; a highly educated and accomplished woman, 
who became his assistant and amanuensis during the 
pre2)aration of his last work when he was helpless 
with paralysis. 

The early period at which Schoolcraft entered the 
field of observation as a naturalist, the enterprise and 
interest he manifested from the outset in the geology 
and geography of the Great West, and his subsequent 
researches as an ethnologist in investigating the 
Indian languages and history, entitle him to the 
highest consideration. No explorer has done more 
than he to enlighten the nation on matters of the 
greatest importance connected especially with the 
Great Lakes and the Mississippi Valley. He was an 
example of what talent and zeal united with energy 
of character may accomplish in the cause of letters 
and science by the mere force of application, without 
the advantages of hereditary wealth, the impulse of 
patronage, or the prestige of early academical honors. 

We are indebted to him for our first accounts of 
the mineral wealth of the great valley beyond the 
Alleghenies, and he approached more nearly to the 
Truje Source of the Great Eiver of North America than 
any of his predecessors. His error in supposing that 
he had reached the Source of the Mississippi can not 
be placed to his discredit, as circumstances beyond 
his control prevented the consummation of his efforts. 
He pursued the stream to the points at which it had 



SCHOOLCRAFT AND LAKE ITASCA. 207 

been explored in 1805 by Lieutenant Pike, and in 
1820 by General Cass, and reached Lake Itasca, July 
twenty-first, 1832. In the following year he published 
the account of his discovery. 

In 1841, he removed from his Northwestern resi- 
dence at the Sault, to the city of New York, and in 
the following year visited England, France, Germany, 
Prussia, Belgium, and Holland. 

Twenty years were still left him in which to enjoy 
the deserved appreciation of his labors and the 
benefits of his wide travels. He died in Washington, 
December tenth, 1864, at a time when the capital 
was in a ferment over the Civil War; but his person- 
ality was not lost in the nation^s sorrow, for as long as 
the great North American River has a history, the 
discoverer of Itasca will not be forgotten. 








CHAPTER V. 

INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 

N his own country this scholarly explorer 
': left some trace of his abilities; yet only 
^ such as would make him known in the 
^ circle in which he moved — the circle 
of the scholar and the man of science. 
At Chises, in Savoy, where he was born 
in 1786, Nicollet began life as a farmer 
boy, working in the fields and leading the cows to 
pasture; but the turning point came when, at twelve 
years, he commenced to read. From this time he 
made such rapid progress, that he soon entered the 
college of his native place, finishing his course there 
with such success that he was able at its completion 
to take the assistant professorship of mathematics at 
Chambery. 

From here he went to the French capital with a 
recommendation to Tochon and Bouvart, two noted 
savants; and was soon in his favorite element study- 
ing astronomy with Laplace, and acting as secretary 
and librarian of the Royal Observatory. 

With quick advancement, this position was soon 
exchanged for an appointment in the Bureau of 
Longitudes and a professorship of mathematics in the 
College of Louis le Grand; while he held at the same 
time the post of examiner of candidates for the Naval 
School. In 1825 he received the Cross of the Legion 
of Honor. Unfortunately, soon after this, Professor 

(208) 



INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 209 

Nicollet was seized with a desire for riches, and 
beginning to speculate on a small scale with satisfac- 
tory results, he finally risked all; only to find him- 
self, after the revolution of 1830, involved in the 
general ruin. 

All France was at this time in a ferment; Paris 
was the theatre of action; and the outbreak of July 
caused a fall in the public funds which threatened 
disaster to more than one fortune. 

Through these events Nicollet was driven back to 
his accustomed labors, wiser for the bitter experience. 
It is only necessary to follow his life to this point to 
discover the spirit which led him, in December, 1831, 
to come to America for the purpose of contributing 
to the progressive increase of knowledge in its phys- 
ical geography. His predecessors had, with a few 
exceptions, been led to make their journeys either to 
gratify a love of adventure or to satisfy a natural 
curiosity; but he dignified his explorations by making 
them in the name of science. 

His plan was to explore the Allegheny range ^^in 
its various extensions through the Southern States;" 
to ascend the Red and Arkansas rivers and the Mis- 
souri i^art way, and to explore the Mississippi River 
^■^from its mouth to its very source." 

After devoting five years to the carrying out of 
this plan, Nicollet returned to Baltimore. His work 
was not unknown to Government, and he soon received 
a notice from the War Department to go to Washing- 
ton that arrangements might be made for an expedi- 
tion to the country lying about the Headwaters of tlie 
Mississippi, which would enable him to complete his 

map of that region, and Lieutenant Fremont, of the 
14 



210 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

Corps of Topogi-apliical Engineers had been engaged 
to accompany him. 

The Coteau des Prairies seems to be the point from 
which the explorer looked out upon the region 
embraced within the limits of his riiap, and indeed 
it commands a view of ^'^ the green turf that forms 
the basin of the Ked Eiver of the North, the forest- 
capped summits of the Hauteur des Terres that sur- 
round the source of the Mississippi, the granite 
valley of the Upper Saint Peter, and the depressions 
in which are Lake Traverse and the Big Stone Lake." 

Passing 'up the Saint Peter, Nicollet left the main 
stream at the Sioux Portage, following this trail to 
the mouth of the AVaraju, by which he ascended to 
the Shetek lakes and thence to the Coteau. 

In going from the Shetek lakes to the Red Pipestone 
Quarry, the party came uj^ton the ruins of ancient 
breastworks similar to those found by Carver on the 
Mississippi, and recalling again the pre-historic man 
who fought and lived in this '^old, old land which 
men call new."^ 

Upon nearing the quarry where the Indians from 
the surrounding nations come to get the favorite 
material for their pipes — a place believed by them to 
be under the control of the Great Spirit, who salutes 
the visitor with thunder and lightning, Nicollet and 
his party were overtaken by a heavy storm and were 
obliged to wait until it had passed over; but the 
explorer humorously remarks that the Great Spirit 
soon showed his good favor, for the sun came out 
again, and the journey was resumed. Camp was 
made on this " consecrated ground"^ and the travelers 
had the pleasure of watching at sunset the illumined 
bluffs which seemed like " the ruins of some ancient 



in^vestigatio:n^s or nicollet. 211 

city built of marble and porphyry/' Nicollet men- 
tions, in describing this remarkable place, the customs 
observed by the Indians when they come for the pipe- 
stone. Some one of their number is selected to work at 
the quarry, and before the journey is made, this one 
must observe a three-days' purification. At the end 
of this time he and his companions start out for the 
coveted stone, and having reached the quarry, after 
oifering gifts to the presiding deity, the man goes to 
work. He cuts into the rock wherever his judgment 
advises; but if he fails to select the most favorable 
spot he is discarded and another takes his place. 

In speaking of the Cannon Eiver which Nicollet 
explored, and Avhich lies within his romantic '^^ Undine 
Kegion'' toward which the Saint Peter dijDS in its 
midway curve, he gives his reason for believing this 
stream identical with La Hontan's ^^Long Eiver" 
and has therefore called it after that early explorer. 

With amusing incidents he describes the character- 
istics of each waterway which he traversed, from 
Devil's Lake to the smallest tributary of the Missis- 
si pjoi. 

Returning from the former on his way to the 
valley of the Red River he mentions the strange 
behavior of his Indian " Dixon" who generally kept 
ahead of the party as guide. He had a habit of 
making the signal to rest by sitting down and light- 
ing his pipe while he waited for the others to come 
up, but invariably sat facing them. On one occasion, 
however, Nicollet, who was closely following him, 
noticed that he had stopped on the crest of a hill, 
sat down with his back to the others and without 
changing his position stolidly waited. Upon reach- 
ing the inexplicable savage he found him looking off 



212 EXPLOKATIOK OF THE UPPEK MISSISSIPPI. 

in '^ ecstatic contemplation " over the magnificent 
valley of the Eed Kiver of the North. The party had 
known for some time that they must be near it, but 
were unprepared for this strange introduction. 

Upon reaching Crow Wing River on his way to 
the " source ^^ of the Mississippi, Nicollet determined 
to follow another course than that pursued succes- 
sively by Pike, Cass, and Schoolcraft; he therefore 
went to Leech Lake by a route lying between the 
Crow AVing and the Mississippi. 

The first three days of his stay at Leech Lake were 
far from pleasant. Flat-Mouth, head- chief of the 
Chippewas, and father of the chief of the same name 
who entertained my party in 1881, was absent at the 
time, and the missionary of the place, Eev. Mr. 
Boutwell, was detained by high winds on the ojjposite 
side of the lake. Nicollet afterward discovered that 
the annoyance from the Indians was due to their 
impression that he was poor, as he had very few 
presents for them, and this caused them to look upon 
him with contempt and even to threaten his life. 

When Mr. Boutwell arrived peace was in a measure 
restored and a mutual sympathy sprang up between 
the two Frenchmen. 

Mr. Boutwell had come to Leech Lake some time 
before to work among the '^ pillagers, ^^ a name given 
the Indians there by the Schoolcraft party, whose 
supplies they had molested, and of which they had 
since proudly boasted. Boutwell was a man of zeal 
and devotion and no doubt exerted a strong influence. 

From Leech Lake, Nicollet started for the Head- 
waters of the river in a canoe, accompanied by his 
guide Brunet, Desire, a voyageur, and a Chippewa 
called Kegwedzissag. He followed the course of the 



INVESTIGATION'S OF NICOLLET. 213 

Kabekonaug River, whose shores were so thickly 
wooded that in order to make a passage it was 
necessary to cut away the overhanging branches. 
This protection, with that of the hills on either side, 
have given its waters a very even temperature, so 
that Nicollet paddling through them in August was 
surprised to find that they had reached only 54°. 

From this stream a portage was made to La Place 
River which was followed to its source, and here near 
Schoolcraft^s old camp-ground, Nicollet made some 
astronomical observations although he was ^*^ assailed 
by torrents of mosquitoes," which three times extin- 
guished the lights of his lanterns. 

Notwithstanding the party was awake by four 
o^clock the next morning to make the final portage to 
Itasca, the march was not begun until half past six; 
but the leader of the expedition excuses this tardiness 
by referring to the heat and mosquitoes which is quite 
enough to elicit the sympathy of those who have felt 
the effect of this combination. When at last the 
signal was given, Brunet took up the canoe. Desire 
and Kegwedzissag assumed their respective burdens, 
while Nicollet distributed about his person his instru- 
ments, cloak, gun, powder-flask, shot-bag, and a 
luxury seldom known to the explorer — his umbrella. 
'' It will be readily conceived from this description of 
my equipment," he says, ^^that although the one 
least loaded, I was the most inconvenienced. * * * 
Necessity engrossed me with the safety of my instru- 
ments. I will .confess it, my mind frequently 
became bewildered, so that twice during the portage 
I lost my way; twice I got bogged in marshes from 
which I extricated myself by walking over slippery 
and decayed trunks of trees; and twice I reproached 



214 EXPLORATION^ OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

myself with the rashness that had led me upon such 
a journey." 

The six-mile portage which has proved so trying to 
the travelers who have chosen to reach Itasca bv this 
route, took Nicollet five hours to cross, bringing him 
to the shore of the lake before noon, where he took a 
barometrical observation. 

Passing down the southeast arm the party halted 
at Schoolcraft Island and pitched tents, while 
Nicollet fixed his artificial horizon for observations 
upon the stump of Schoolcraft's flag-pole raised there 
four years before. He then proceeded to explore the 
lake, noticing the creek entering the southeast arm and 
others entering the southwest arm, one of which — 
^^ Nicollet Creek" — he followed to its source in a 
pond which at that time was connected with two 
lower ponds by a small rivulet; and this stream he 
evidently considered the source of the Great River. 
He says in conclusion, "After having devoted tliree 
days to an exploration of the sources of the Mis- 
sissippi, and spent portions of the nights iti mak- 
ing astronofnical observatio7is, I took leave of Itasca 
Lake, to the examination of luhich the expedition 
that preceded me hy four years had devoted but a 
short time.'' 

Passing out of Lake Itasca the Indians paddled 
briskly enough to bring the party to Lake Bemidji 
for an evening encampment, and Nicollet, entering 
upon the unbroken sheet of water, was deeply 
impressed by its solitary beauty. Cass Lake was 
reached early the next day, and three hours were 
spent here to enable Nicollet to make his astronom- 
ical observations; but hearing the warning cry of the 
loon, which almost invariably presages a storm, all 



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(215^ 



216 EXPLORATIOK OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

liurried toward Leech Lake, which was reached at ten 
o'clock at night. 

Nicollet and his little following were barely under 
shelter when a violent storm burst upon them. Dur- 
ing their absence, Flat-Mouth had returned from the 
trading posts, whither he had gone for ammunition, 
vowing vengeance against the Sioux and declaring that 
the stain of Chippewa blood had been long enough on 
his grounds, and that it was time he should wipe it out, 
but he had not succeeded in getting what he wanted 
and was therefore disappointed. He did not forget, 
however, the courtesy due Nicollet in return for the 
ill-treatment which he had received at the hands of 
his men, and accordingly called a council that he 
might show his white brother the esteem in which 
he was held. Nicollet spent three evenings with this 
intelligent Indian, and drank tea with him *^'out of 
lino China ware." On one of these visits he showed 
his host a rare snuff-box, ornamented with a picture 
of Napoleon at the Island of Saint Helena. Flat- 
Mouth examined this closely, asked many questions 
about the white chief, and said with eloquent conceit: 
" Well, it is strange, on whatever side I turn it, the 
figure looks at me and seems to say, ' thou art my 
brother warrior.' " 

Having gained the required rest, Nicollet bade 
farewell to his friend Boutwell and to his Indian 
host, and began the descent of the river, deploring 
that ill-health and lack of time prevented him at the 
various points from inserting additional matter con- 
cerning them in his report, which he believed would 
be interesting to the general reader. This ill-health 
really obliged him to leave unfinished much of his 
work, and prevented him from revising his report. 



INVESTIGATIONS OF NICOLLET. 217 

which was returned to him for that purpose while he 
was in Washington. lie never recovered his strength, 
and died at the National Capital in September, 1843. 

It is to be regretted that more has not been written 
concerning the life and works of this scientist and 
explorer, and that an edition of his journals has not 
been published for distribution beyond the Bureau of 
the Corps of Topographical Engineers at Wash- 
ington. 

His comprehensive map of the Hydrographical Basin 
of the Upper Mississippi, while it is not complete, in 
so far as it does not show the heart-shaped lake with 
its feeders to the south of Itasca, is, besides this, 
very accurate and admirable. In fact, it gives 
Nicollet a distinct and conspicuous place among the 
explorers of the Mississippi; not because he saw so 
much more than those who had preceded him, but 
because he gave the knowledge of what he saw to the 
world. It is this inclination, often followed at the 
expense of convenience and safety, which deserves 
appreciation. 




CHAPTER VI. 

EXPLOITS OF CHAKLES LAi^MAN. 

HIS adventurous author and traveler 
published, in 1847, an interesting and 
somewhat sensational account of his 
journey to, and wanderings through 
the wild region surrounding the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi. 
Leaving the city of Saint Louis in 
the summer of 1846, with a party of excursionists, in 
a small steamer that plied between that city and the 
head of navigation on the river, he jotted down in 
his diary everything he considered worthy of note. 
He had set out with the design of reaching, if possi- 
ble, the extreme head of the Mississippi, by whatever 
conveyance he could secure after leaving the boat 
at Saint Peter — now known as the Minnesota River. 
The small duodecimo, in which the traveler records 
his experiences, is full of personal adventure of a 
rather romantic character; traditions picked up from 
loquacious and superstitious Indians, and bits of local 
history, are tinged by a lively imagination. 

From the outset of his novel journey, the author 
gossips pleasantly with his readers concerning every 
point passed by the vessel, but his descriptions are 
out of date, the journey having been made over fifty 
years ago, when flourishing cities that now adorn the 
river banks, were mere villages or collections of log 

(218) 



EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LA]S"MAN. 219 

huts, some having no existence whatever at the 
time. 

Passing Eock Island and Prairie du Chien, con- 
cerning both of which the traveler gives rein to an 
exuberant fancy, and has much to disclose in the 
shape of history and tradition, he discourses with 
enthusiasm ujdou Lake Pepin and its extraordinary 
natural beauty. Surrounded by undulating hills 
covered with velvety grass to their summits, and 
" abounding with almost every variety of game, the 
shores of the lake are covered with the most valuable 
agates and carnelians/' a statement which will be 
received with a grain of allowance in the present day, 
however true it may have been a half century ago. 
Legends and romantic stories succeed each other, and 
are intensely interesting if they are not all strictly 
veracious. But the author gives them as he heard 
them from Indians and others, and himself occasion- 
ally expresses a doubt of their truth. The legend of 
the unfortunate " Winona '^ is of course related, but 
need not be repeated here. 

The little steamer proceeded on her course up the 
river, passing Red Wing, "Si village of about six 
hundred souls ;^'' and the mouth of Saint Peter River 
was at length reached — the head of navigation on the 
Mississippi. Landing at this point the writer says: 
'' My sojourn here has been interesting from many 
circumstances. I feel that I am on the extreme verge 
of the civilized world, and that all Iteyond is a myste- 
rious wilderness. ^^ He gives an account of an encamp- 
ment of Sioux and Dakota Indians near the mouth of 
the Saint Peter, at one of whose feasts he was permit- 
ted to be present. '^ It was announced throughout the 
village that the Indians were to have a Dog Feast, in 



220 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

which none but the bravest and most distinguished 
warriors were allowed to participate. The idea that 
lies at the bottom of this rite is that, by eating of a 
dog's liver, the heart is made strong. The feast took 
place on the open prairie and was attended by about 
one hundred bra,ves, while there must have been a 
thousand spectators. The first step in the ceremony 
was for the Indians to seat themselves in a circle 
around a large pole and devote a few moments to 
smoking. Their only article of clothing was the 
clout, and their only weapon a long knife. 

" Suddenly a whoop was given and the whole party 
rose and commenced dancing to the monotonous 
music of a drum. Then broke upon the ear, thfe 
howl, and in a moment more, the dying groan of a 
dog, from without the circle of dancers. The carcass 
was thrown into their midst by a woman. A chorus 
of deafening yells resounded through the air, the 
dog was immediately opened, his liver taken out, 
suspended on the pole by a string, and the dance 
resumed. The dancers then, one after another, 
stepped up and took a bite of tlie yet warm and quiv- 
ering liver. Soon as this was all eaten, another dog 
was thrown into the ring, and the same horrible cere- 
mony repeated; and so they continued until the 
carcasses of ten dogs were lying at the foot of the 
pole in the center of the dancing crowd. ''' 

Leaving the Saint Peter, Lanman makes his way 
to Saint Anthony Falls. ^^ Their original name,'' 
he explains, ^^was Owah Menah, meaning Falling 
Water," adding, ^^they owe their reputation prin- 
cipally to the fact that they ^ veto ' the navigation of 
the Upper Mississippi." 

Lanman journeyed from the Falls of Saint Anthony 



EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN. 221 

to Crow Wing Eiver on horseback, and, as usual, met 
with many adventures and some hair-breadth escapes. 
He was accompanied by a French-Canadian as guide. 
The trail lay for the most part along the eastern shore 
of the Great River. Their supplies consisted of 
a small stock of bread and pork, and a blanket, 
together with a gun each, and ammunition. Deer, 
prairie-birds, and grouse were plentiful, and at sun- 
set the first day Lanman had fifty prairie-birds fast- 
ened to his saddle, while the Frenchman had bagged 
a fine deer. A large wolf was also killed by a shot 
from the guide, and its skin taken by him. Shortly 
afterward they were chased by a herd of wolves, 
when the horses took fright, became unmanageable, 
and ran for their lives, leaving their enemy soon out 
of sight. 

Crow Wing was at length reached, which the 
author describes as a beautiful spot, situated on the 
east side of the Mississippi, at the mouth of a river 
of the same name. Here he was fortunate in meet- 
ing William Morrison, the trader, whose ^^ reputation 
as an upright, intelligent, and noble-hearted man 
was co-extensive with the entire wilderness of the 
Northwest. ^^ Lanman and Morrison became very 
friendly. The latter was a Scotchman by birth and 
at the time of meeting Lanman was somewhat 
advanced in life. He had resided in the Indian 
country about thirty-five years, and is eulogized by 
the author as possessing ^^ all the virtues of the 
trader, and none of his vices." His wife was an 
Indian and had borne him a number of bright chil- 
dren. He was much liked by the Chippewas, to 
whom he was always a good friend and counselor. 
Lanman spent ten days with him — " the most delight- 



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(323) 



EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMA:N'. 223 

ful days I ever experienced." Morrison undertook to 
act as his guide for a time, and together they wan- 
dered over the res^ion of Northern Minnesota. 

CD 

Among other tales of this locality told by Lanman 
is the following: '^ A famous battle was once fought 
here between the Sioux and Chippewas. A party of 
the former had gone up Crow Wing River for the pur- 
pose of destroying a certain Chippewa village. They 
found it inhabited only by women and clnldren, 
every one of whom they murdered in cold blood, and 
burned their wigwams. It so happened that the 
Chippewa warriors had been expecting an attack, and 
had consequently hidden themselves in deep holes on 
a high bank of the river at Crow Wing, intending to 
fall upon the Sioux party on their way up the river. 
But they were sadly disappointed. While watching 
for their enemy they were suddenly startled by a tri- 
umphant shout that floated down the stream. In 
great surprise they looked, when lo! the very party 
that they came after were in full view, shouting and 
tossing up the scalps of the women and children. 
The Chippewas remained in ambush for a few min- 
utes, and when the Sioux came within reach of their 
arms every one of them was killed, while their canoes, 
plunder, and bodies were suffered to float down the 
stream." And the narrator adds, ^Hhe pall of night 
rested upon the hills, the glens, the waveless river, 
and the Chippewa camp." 

Many legends are associated with Crow Wing, 
among them the following about a white panther, 
which was religiously believed by the Chippewas. 
The panther in question was the prophet or oracle of 
a certain Chippewa tribe and possessed the gift of 
speech. Lanman in all seriousness proceeds as fol- 



224 EXPLORATION OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

lows: ^^A young Chippewa brave was anxious to 
avenge the death of a brother, and sought the ora- 
cle to learn the success of his projected expedition. 
The panther told him that he must not go; but the 
young man heeded him not, and, heading his party, 
went. Every one of his followers was killed, himself 
escaping by the merest accident. Thinking that the 
white panther had in some way caused the calamity, 
he recklessly stole upon the creature in the darkness 
of midnight and slaughtered it. The dying words of 
the oracle were: '^ Cruel and unhappy warrior, I 
doom thee to walk the earth forever a starving and 
undying skeleton.' The Chippewas say that the 
specter, whenever the moon is tinged with red or the 
aurora borealis floods the sky with purple, may be 
seeii flitting along the banks of Mee-see-see-pee." 

Crow Wing was at the time of Lanman's visit the 
home of the head chief of the Chippewa nation named 
Hole-in-the-day. Our traveler visited him in his 
lodge frequently, and describes him as about sixty 
years of age, "stern and brave, but mean, vain, 
treacherous, and cruel.'' In proof of his treachery 
and cruelty the following incident is related as a fact: 
" He and some six warriors while on a hunting tour, 
were hospitably entertained in a Sioux lodge, where 
resided a family of seventeen persons. The two 
nations were at peace, and for a time their intercourse 
had been perfectly friendly. On leaving his host, 
Hole-in-the-day shook him cordially by the hand, 
with a smile upon his countenance, and departed. 
At midnight, when the Sioux family were wrapped 
in peaceful slumber, Hole-in-the-day and his men 
retraced their steps, and, without any provocation, 
fell upon the sleeping family and cruelly murdered 



EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAIT. 225 

every member, even the lisping babe." Hole-in- the- 
day told this story of himself to Lanman^, and 
boasted of it as of something creditable! 

The Indian trader fifty years ago was the patriarch 
and counselor of the wilderness. As the agent of 
some fur company, his business was to trade with the 
Indians for their furs and pelts. He was generally 
of French descent, and his ancestors were traders. 
He was, of course, a native of the wild region he 
inhabited — raised in utter ignorance of civilized life. 
His nearest white neighbor, also a trader, would 
possibly be two hundred miles away. His dwelling 
was built of logs and contained one large room and 
a loft. His merchandise was composed chiefly of 
salt pork, flour, blankets, colored cloth, and various 
kinds of trinkets. His family consisted of an Indian 
wife and several half-breed children. Adjoining the 
trader^s home Tt^as about one acre of ploughed ground 
on which he raised a few vegetables; and a solitary 
cow yielded him the only luxury he enjoyed. 

On his way up the Mississippi, Lanman came to 
Lake Winnibegoshish. The river he found so wind- 
ing that in some cases, by making a portage of about 
fifteen rods, he saved three or four miles of canoeing. 
The stream averaged about a quarter of a mile in 
breadth, and flowed rapidly over a rocky bed. Lake 
Winnibegoshish is fifteen miles in length and about 
ten miles in width. It is nearly round, has no 
islands, and is surrounded with a gravelly beach. 
The water is clear but shallow. The surrounding 
country is a dead level, covered with trees, inter- 
spersed with lakes and rice swamps, where immense 
numbers of water-fowl have lived and multiplied for 
centuries. 

16 



226 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

" The only inhabitants found on the shores of 
Wimiibegoshish/' says the traveler, *^'were three 
bands of Chippewas, numbering in all about three 
thousand souls. * * * Immediately on my arrival 
I heard something about a contemplated bear hunt. 
A number had already been killed, and there was a 
fording place on the Mississippi, not far away, where 
a good marksman might take one at almost any time. 
A present of tobacco soon initiated me into the good 
graces of the party of hunters, and I was allowed 
to accompany them. We started at sunset and 
descended the river in a canoe to the crossing, where 
we concealed ourselves in a recess of the forest, seated 
on a rock that commanded an opening between the 
trees. It Avas quite dark, as there was no moon. 
Here we spent an hour in perfect silence. Finally, 
one of the Indians tapped me on the shoulder and 
pointed to a large black object which«[ soon saw was 
a bear just wading into the water. Bruin took it 
quite leisurely, as is his wont, little dreaming that an 
enemy was so near. Just as his feet touched the 
bottom of the stream, the Indian gave me a nod, and 
raising our guns simultaneously, three of us fired at 
the animal, striking him in a vulnerable spot. We 
soon shipped him on board our canoe and paddled 
back to the village. Morrison estimated his weight 
to be about three hundred pounds.''^ 

Eed Cedar Lake, since named Cass Lake by School- 
craft in honor of General Cass, the Territorial Gov- 
ernor of Michigan, was reached in a few days. It 
derived its original name, in Indian, from the tree 
that mostly abounds upon its shores. In the center 
of the lake is a large island and several small islands 
occupy other portions of the lake. The entire region 



EXPLOITS OF CHARLES LANMAN". 227 

watered by the unnumbered lakes of the Upper Mis- 
sissippi, was formerly inhabited by the Chippewa 
nation. The hospitality of the tribes was proverbial 
in times past, ere they came to know the whites too 
well and to taste of their *'^fire water." When a 
stranger entered their cabin, he was invited to a seat 
on their best mat, and always treated with the very 
best they possessed in the way of food. If a chief 
was visited at an untimely hour — at midnight, for 
examj^le — he would arise, stir up his fire, and give 
the intruder a j^ipe with the air of a gentleman. If 
called upon when the caller knew the chief had 
reason to consider him an enemy, he would not tell 
the caller to leave his wigwam, but possibly in an 
unguarded moment, in the latter's own wigwam, he 
would cleave his skull with a tomahawk. They were 
very affectionate to their wives and children. When 
a party of them were in a state of starvation, and 
one individual happened to have a bear or deer, the 
latter would distribute it equally at a feast, and they 
would never refuse to present to a brother Chippewa, 
or white man whom they esteemed, any I3ipe, weapon, 
or ornament that may have been solicited. They 
still treat their infirm people with tender care. As the 
Chippewa Country was mostly covered with a dense 
forest, the people were unacquainted with the use of 
the horse. Their mode of hunting the buffalo was 
to drive them over bluffs, or shoot them while dis- 
guised in the ^kin of a wolf or buffalo. Their only 
vehicle for locomotion and transport was the birchen 
canoe. The bark of the birch tree, out of which it 
was made, is still found in abundance throughout the 
entire territory, and they used it, not only for canoes, 
but for their lodges, their grave-houses, their baskets. 



228 EXPLORATION" OF THE UPPER MISSISSIPPI. 

their dishes, and exquisitely worked boxes which they 
disposed of as curiosities. 

In the month of July, 1846, Lanman entered Lake 
Itasca and described it as a small sheet of water 
about five miles long and one to two miles wide, con- 
taining only one island. Its Indian name was 
Omushhos. He followed Schoolcraft in pronouncing 
this lake the head of the Mississippi. This is easily 
understood in the light of my discovery of 1881. 
Neither Schoolcraft or Lanman had visited, or sus- 
pected the existence of the beautiful sheet of water 
to the south of Itasca, effectuallv screened from view 
by the high ridge whicli separates the two lakes. 
Schoolcraft did not see it for reasons I shall present 
in a future chapter, and Lanman makes no allusion 
to it. To the south of Itasca is the ridge or eleva- 
tion of wood-crowned hills. The whole region to 
the north of Itasca he correctly describes as woody, 
low, and marshy. The trees are pine, oak, elm, maple, 
birch, poplar, jack-pine, and tamarack. The region 
around this lake was formerly famous for the num- 
ber of its wild animals, and Itasca derived its name 
Omushkos, by which it is still known to the Indians, 
from a monstrous elk — the Englisli of Omushhos — 
^^ which, according to the legend, measured the 
length of two canoes, and with his horns could split 
a pine tree.^' 

It may be stated that Lanman is not considered a 
reliable authority in matters relating to the Upper 
MississipjDi and its neighboring territory. He was not 
in a strict sense an explorer, nor does he claim to have 
been such. His journey appears to have been under- 
taken chiefly for the gratification of a commendable 
curiosity. In 1846, the year of his romantic journey, 



EXPLOITS OF CHAELES LANMAi;r. 229 

the Valley of the Mississippi, above the Falls of Saint 
Anthony, was known only to Indian traders, mostly 
of French origin, and probably to one or two specu- 
lative and intrepid travelers prospecting for the use- 
ful and precious metals. Lanman does not pretend 
to have discovered anything. Had he given more 
attention to exploration, he might have made an 
important addition to our geographical knowledge 
while canoeing on the southwestern arm of Itasca, 
and thus have forestalled the author of the present 
volume. Lanman^s experiences are interesting mainly 
from the many Indian traditions he recounts, and 
his descriptions of regions and scenery but little 
known even in the present day. 



5* 



PAET THIED 



■:o: 



DISCOVERY 



OF THE 



^vne ^onvcs. 



:o: 



SUBJECTS: 

Chapter Page 

I. EARLY AND RECENT EXPLORATION... 233 

n. JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA 237 

IIL WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS 246 

IV. EARLY HISTORY OF MINNESOTA 257 

V. THE "TWIN CITIES" 265 

VI. PREPARATION FOR SECOND EXPEDITION 297 

VII. MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS 315 

VIII. THROUGH THE WILDERNESS 326 

IX. HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI 339 

X. JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITION 354 

XI. RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS 381 

XII. INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION 396 





CHAPTER I. 

KECENT EXPLORATIONS. 

■ OR nearly fifty years prior to 1881, it 
liad been generally accepted as estab- 
lished beyond question that the ulti- 
mate Source of the Mississippi was 
in Lake Itasca, Northern Minnesota. 
Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, geologist 
of the Cass expedition and leader of 
a subsequent exploring party, had 
announced to the world his discovery of this lake in 
the year 1832, and pronounced it the True Head of 
the Great River. 

Geographers, map-makers, educational publishers, 
college faculties, and teachers, invariably published 
and taught that the Source of the Mississippi was in 
the lake thus designated by Schoolcraft. A few, 
however, pioneers and others, who had come in con- 
tact with Indians on the Chipj)ewa Reservation, 
stoutly denied the claim of Itasca to the distinction 
given it by its discoverer; this fact, coupled with an 
eager desire to ascertain the truth or error of School- 
craft, led me to organize an expedition having for its 
object the possible settlement of the mooted ques- 
tion. That expedition resulted in locating a hitherto 
unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca, as the 

(233) 



234 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Primal Eeservoir, on the twenty-second of July, 
1881. 

The discovery that a lake of fair proportions above 
and beyond Itasca was the True Source of the Mis- 
sissippi was followed by an attempt to discredit the 
validity of my published statements, and misrepresen- 
tations were made which rendered it expedient in the 
estimation of my friends, that further investigation 
sliould be undertaken in that quarter and that I should 
resume the pen in defense of the truth of my position. 

No sooner had I announced a new source for the 
Mississippi than several critics jumped to their feet 
and declared that there was nothing beyond Itasca 
worthy of the slightest consideration. When, how- 
ever, I had proved most conclusively that that lake 
was not the remotest water, some of my opponents 
rather reluctantly granted that there might possibly 
be a few ponds and puddles in that vicinity, but, if 
so, they were of little consequence, else the early 
explorers would have given them due prominence in 
the accounts of their explorations. 

Having made it entirely clear to most geographers 
that there was such a lake as I had described, and 
that it was a direct and permanent feeder of Lake 
Itasca, it was now asserted by a few cavilers that it 
had been "previously seen and that even if it were 
accepted as the source, I was entitled to but little credit 
for establishing its true relation to the Mississippi. 

Again, it was the argument of certain parties who 
imagined that they had interests inimical to mine, 
that the explorations of the eminent French scientist, 
Nicollet, which tended largely to confirm Schoolcraft, 
were conducted during the '^^dry season,^' and, not- 
withstanding that the lake which I had fixed upon 



RECEI^'T EXPLORATIOI^"S. 235 

in July was between five and six miles in circumfer- 
ence and covered an area of two hundred and fifty- 
five acres, with an average depth of forty-five feet, its 
basin may not have exhibited water during the month 
of August when the region was visited by the distin- 
guished Frenchman in 1836. 

Finally, on learning that the lake in question was 
being almost universally adopted, one or two exceed- 
ingly zealous partisans feeling, I presume, that they 
had a " mission," or rather that they were called 
upon, to investigate my explorations, sent out what 
they were pleased to denominate ^^expeditions" to 
examine and report upon their findings in the locality 
undei discussion. The first of the so-called expedi- 
tions visited the Head of the Mississippi in October 
1886, and is alleged to have consisted of three persons 
although the name of but oue appeared in the report. 
A subsequent expedition took place in the summer 
and autumn of 1889, and was, to say the least, con- 
spicuous for its contradictions. 

Although the leaders of both of these investigatiug 
parties were pleased to denounce me in unmeasured 
terms, their own reports were very conflicting; one 
of them even going so far as to pluck the laurel from 
the brow of Schoolcraft in order that he might 
bestow it upon his greater favorite, Mcollet, while 
the other was for a long time in doubt as to the 
propriety of deciding between a pond, a puddle, a 
rivulet, or spring. The investigations of this 
^^enterprising" explorer culminated in his fixing 
upon two lakes having no surface connection with 
Lake Itasca or the Mississippi, as the Fountain- 
head. A very notable feature of their various 
" modest " reports was that they were made in the 



236 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

interest of their employers, and were filled with 
vulgar abuse of everyone connected with the expedi- 
tion of 1881. 

The antagonism thus developed by an honest 
attempt to establish a geographical truth, together 
with the fact that, even at this late day, some of our 
leading educators still believe in the error of Lake 
Itasca, led me to decide upon another visit to the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi, for the purpose of 
making a most thorough investigation, in an earnest 
effort to settle the vexed question which had occupied 
the attention of geographers for over ten years. 



CHAPTER II. 



JOURKEY TO MIIy^N^ESOTA. 




ETERMINED upon a second expe- 
dition to the Headwaters of the 
Mississip^^i, I immediately began 
preparations for the accomplish- 
ment of my purpose while at 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, during the 
month of May, 1891, just ten years 
after starting from Cleveland, Ohio, 
on my first journey to that region. 

Wishing to reach Northern Minnesota as early as 
practicable, I left Milwaukee on the fourteenth of 
July, accompanied by Pearce Giles of Camden, New 
Jersey, who assisted in the organization of my former 
expedition, and who has since been an earnest 
advocate of my position in relation to the hjource of 
the Mississippi. 

We availed ourselves of the Chicago, Milwaukee 
and Saint Paul Railway in our tour across Wisconsin. 
The season and route fixed upon for our trip were 
such as to present the charming scenery and rich 
products of its soil to the best possible advantage. 
Many and wonderful are the changes which have 
taken place in the picturesque region which lies 
between Lake Michigan and the Mississippi since the 
zealous Jesuit missionary. Father James Marquette, 
paddled his birch canoe down the beautiful river from 
which the State derives its name. 

(237) 



238 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Althougli a slight digression^ it may not be entirely 
foreign to our purpose, or uninteresting to the reader, 
if we briefly note the transformation which two hun- 
dred years have wrought in this rich and populous 
section of our Great Eepublic; for it was through 
the rivers of Wisconsin that not only Marquette and 
Joliet, but also their immediate successors, La Salle, 
Hennepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix, and Carver, found 
their way to the Father of Waters. 

It is hardly probable that the old explorers, even 
in their most sanguine moments, ever dreamed of the 
brilliant future which awaited the field of their 
explorations. Then, all of the vast tract of country 
through which they passed was an unbroken wilder- 
ness. Now, its productive farms, its factories, rail- 
ways, and above all the schools and churches, mark 
its development and tell the story of onward strides 
in progress and civilization. 

An hour's ride from Milwaukee brought us to 
Waukesha, a delightful summer resort, sometimes 
styled the Saratoga of the West. It is the capital of 
Waukesha County, and is noted for the efficacy of its 
mineral springs. This beautiful village is situated 
on the Fox River, twenty-one miles southwest of 
Milwaukee, in one of the most fertile valleys of the 
State, and has many attractions aside from the health- 
giving properties of its famous springs. 

Leaving Waukesha, our journey led us through 
several villages to Watertown on the Black River, 
forty-three miles west of Milwaukee. This quiet 
little city is the center of one of the richest agri- 
cultural sections of Wisconsin; it is located on both 
sides of the river in Dodge and Jefferson counties, in 
a valley from which gentle hills rise on every side. 



JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA. 239 

It is reputed to have six public schools, two colleges, 
fifteen churches, three national banks, and four 
weekly papers. The river affords abundant water- 
power, and several mills and factories were observed 
as we passed through the city. The growth of Water- 
town has been comparatively slow, its population 
having increased but little over eight thousand in the 
course of twenty years. 

Our route from Watertown was northwesterly to 
Portage, which is picturesquely situated at the head 
of navigation on the Wisconsin River, eighty-three 
miles from Milwaukee. This section of the State was 
for many years celebrated for its extensive pine forests, 
but they have long since yielded to the axe of the 
lumberman, and Portage now has graded schools, 
daily and weekly papers, and a flourishing trade with 
the surrounding country, which was not more famous 
in the past for its lumber than it is to-day for the 
rich products of the farm. 

From Portage we proceeded up the Wisconsin to 
Kilbourn City, passing through a portion of the 
^^ Dalles," which enjoy a deservedly world-wide repu- 
tation for their scenic attractions. America has a 
great variety of grand and beautiful scenery, possibly 
excelling in this particular all other countries of the 
globe, and I have seen nothing anywhere so near to 
civilized lines that surpasses the Dalles of the Wis- 
consin River. Here the largest stream in the State 
flows through a wild gorge for a distance of nearly 
ten miles, so narrow in many places that there is just 
room for a small steamer to pass. The place is sur- 
rounded by a cluster of beautiful lakes, and the land- 
scape resulting from such a happy combination of 
rural attractions is picturesque and enchanting. 




"Sb. 





^ 

..,«^ 



'^ H\5' VC". 



DALLES OF THE WISCONSIN. 
(340) 



JOURl^EY TO MII^I^ESOTA. 241 

Eegretting that a sojourn at the Dalles was 
incompatible with the chief objects of our journey, 
we rolled on toward our evening destination, reach- 
ing the bluffs which overlook the Mississippi at 
La Crosse, a few minutes after five o'clock. 

Although I have often seen the Great Eiver during 
the past twenty years and stood upon its banks many 
times since my canoe voyage of 1881, I could not, on 
viewing it again, readily repress emotions of affection 
for the mighty stream which has for so long a period 
occupied a large share of my time and attention. 
Who among reflective travelers will think it strange 
that long association, even with a river, may not 
sometimes lead to a sentimeiit very nearly akin to 
love? Who that has traced the tortuous course of 
any of the great streams of Earth, from source to 
sea, will wonder at the deep and tender regard which 
I always feel when looking upon this King of American 
rivers? 

Thousands upon thousands of logs, numerous saw- 
mills, and acres of lumber yards, betokened our 
proximity to La Crosse, the second city of Wisconsin 
and one of the most enterprising in the Valley of the 
Mississippi. 

During my descent of the river ten years ago, I 
halted three days at La Crosse, at which time I learned 
something of its early history and development. 

The name of this ambitious young city is said to be 
derived from the invigorating game of *' La Crosse,"' 
the favorite sport of the Indians, who were wont to 
assemble for this purpose on the level prairie upon 
which the city now stands. To indulge in their 
athletic matches, it is recorded, that they gathered 
here in large numbers annually, the plain being con- 

16 



242 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

veniently adapted to the accommodation of the 
various tribes who desired to see and participate in 
the sj^ort. Nathan Myrick, the first white settler, 
became such an enthusiastic admirer of the exciting 
game that he named the spot, on which his solitary 
cabin Avas built. La Crosse, and thus the name of the 
aboriginal sport became perpetuated in that of the 
city. 

La Crosse claims, and with good grace, to be the 
second city in commercial and manufacturing 
importance in the State of Wisconsin. The prairie 
on which it is built is seven miles in length by two 
and a half in breadth. Its distance below Saint Paul 
by the river, is one hundred and ninety-seven miles; 
while by railway it is only one hundred and twenty- 
nine miles from the same city. 

The Black and La Crosse rivers fall into the Missis- 
sippi at this point, the former being a most important 
lumbering stream. 

The growth of La Crosse is in keeping with the 
development of the Northwest. Myrick, the first 
settler, landed here in November, 1841, with a boat- 
load of goods and notions from Prairie du Chien, 
which he traded with the red men for their furs. In 
the course of ten years the trading-post established by 
him, had drawn other settlers to it, and it became an 
incorporated town. Five years later, in 1856, it had 
attained sufficient size and importance to be made a 
city. To-day it has a population of over thirty 
thousand of as industrious and prosperous citizens as 
are to be found on the banks of the Great River. 

The geographical location of La Crosse is doubtless 
one of the chief secrets of its rapid progress and 
present flourishing condition. The products of one 



JOURNEY TO MINNESOTA. 243 

of the leading agricultiiml States of the Union, 
together with a portion of the vast supplies which 
reach its shores from Minnesota and Northern Iowa, 
give to the city immense advantages, occupying, as it 
does, a commanding position on the river for attract- 
ing commercial relations with its sister cities. In 
addition to the facilities offered for transportation by 
numerous water lines. La Crosse has access to several 
railways which center here. The Mississippi and its 
tributaries embrace over sixteen thousand miles of 
navigable water; the former alone presenting a 
stretch of nearly two thousand miles of uninter- 
rupted navigation, affording the cheapest kind of 
transportation, of the benefits of which La Crosse 
avails herself to a very large extent, and to this 
advantage is mainly due her growth in population 
and wealth. 

The commerce and manufactures of a city depend, 
in a great measure, upon the resources of the State 
in Avliich it is situated. Wisconsin is one of our 
richest agricultural States. It is larger than New 
York, Rhode Island, and Connecticut combined, and 
in the fertility of its soil is second to none. A con- 
siderable percentage of the wheat crop of the United 
States is grown in this province. Its immense corn- 
fields, comprising several millions of acres, are 
another source of wealth; while the hay-producing 
area is double that of Iowa. Twenty-five million 
pounds of butter and twenty million pounds of cheese 
are manufactured annually in Wisconsin, most of 
which is shipped to Eastern and European markets. 
The soil and climate of this State are especially 
favorable to the growth of the 2)otato. Flax rais- 
ing is also a leading industry, the yield being over 



244 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

thirty million pounds a year. Thus in agricultural 
resources the " Badger '' State possesses every advan- 
tage for developing great commercial and manu- 
facturing cities, and the favorable position of La 
Crosse eminently fits her for reaping the full benefit 
of the conditions so generously j^rovided. 

After a halt of twenty minut'^s for connections 
and refreshments^ we steamed out of La Crosse and 
were soon wending our way over the railway bridge 
which spans the Mississippi at this point. 

Having reached the Minnesota side of the river, 
we rushed along toward Winona, our evening desti- 
nation, where we had supper and remained for the 
night. The following morning a few hours were pleas- 
antly and profitably spent in a stroll through the 
leading streets of the city, during which we called 
at the office of the Reiniblican in anticipation of 
meeting its editor, Hon. D. Sinclair, who, we 
regretted to learn, was then out of town attending 
an editorial convention at Saint Paul. Mr. Sinclair 
was an early pioneer of Minnesota, and, in addition 
to conducting one of the first journals of the State, 
was at this time postmaster and prominently men- 
tioned as a candidate for the mayoralty. He has 
for several years past shoAvn much interest in the 
controversy relating to the True Source of the Mis- 
sissippi, and the columns of his paper have ever been 
open to those who are disposed to discuss without 
prejudice the geographical question which, since 
1881, has been of more than local interest. 

The growth of Winona since my former visit has 
been gradual and substantial. Several new public 
buildings were noted in various parts of the city of 
which her intelligent citizens are justly proud. 



JOURNEY TO MIN"KESOTA. 245 

In its location and surroundings, Winona is 
extremely picturesque, standing as it does on a 
plateau nine miles long by three broad on the west 
bank of the river, and environed by lofty bluffs, the 
surface of which, in some cases, from base to summit 
appears of a velvety smoothness, having more the 
semblance of art than of Nature. 

The city is laid out with the utmost regularity, the 
streets wide and chiefly at right angles; the business 
blocks compactly built of wood and stone are gener- 
ally of a very substantial character. Many of the 
private residences are elegantly designed and are 
suggestive of wealth and refinement. The whole 
appearance of the place betokens business activity 
and prosperity. In population, AVinona is the fourth 
city in the State, and claims to be third in commer- 
cial importance. It is the river outlet of a large 
portion of Minnesota and several counties of Northern 
Wisconsin, and as a primary grain market, ranks 
fourth in the United States. 

Besides water communication north and south, 
Winona has within her limits the stations of the Chi- 
cago, Milwaukee and Saint Paul; the Green Bay, 
Winona and Saint Paul, and several branch lines of 
railway. 

As a lumber distributing point, this city is one of 
the most important of the Upper Mississijopi, while 
its saw-mills, flour-mills, wagon factories and other 
manufacturing establishments give a very good idea 
of the extent to which its capital and industries have 
been developed in the course of a few years by its 
enterprising inhabitants. 




CHAPTEE III. 

wi:n"oi^a to min"keapolis. 

'E coutinued our journey up the Mississippi, 
at ten o^clock on the following morning, 
and our train making brief stops at the 
various stations between Winona and 
Minneapolis, afforded but little opportu- 
nity for obtaining glimpses of the cities 
and towns which dot the river banks. 
Quite in contrast with my voyage down 
the Mississippi in a canoe, was this trip up stream 
by rail. Everything was reversed. Instead of leis- 
urely disembarking at the water front, we now 
whirled along in rear of the numerous places which, 
during the descent of the river, had arrested my 
attention. The journey then covered a period of 
several days; by rail it can be completed in a cor- 
responding number of hours. 

Reflecting upon the various modes of journeying, 
I am led to say as the result of much experience, that 
he who looks at the country from the window of a 
railway car, can at best have only an imperfect idea 
of the many objects of interest which are constantly 
brought to his notice. During a horseback journey 
from ocean to ocean in 1876, I became satisfied that 
an equestrian tour wherein the rider mounts and dis- 
mounts at will as he jogs along over the highway, 
chatting with an occasional farmer, talking with the 
people in town and viewing rural scenes at his pleas- 

(246) 



I 



WINOKA TO MIKKEAPOLIS. 24? 

ure, presents many attractive features to the student 
and tourist; but notwithstanding all that may be said 
in favor of the horse^ I can not but feel, after 
an equally extended experience in the canoe, that he 
who wishes to view the landscape, to commune with 
KTature, to see men and note the products of their 
toil, to learn something of their manners and customs 
from a novel standpoint, will find our rivers and the 
light craft, Avhich readily thread these waterways, 
best adapted to his purpose. 

In support of the river and canoe for a tour of 
observation, a contemporary says: " Other roads do 
some violence to Nature and bring the traveler 
to stare at her; but the river steals into the scenery 
it traverses without intrusion, silently creating and 
adorning it, and is free to come and go as the 
zephyr. '' 

The voyager in his canoe near the surface of the 
water, floats along seeing hill and dale and woodland 
very much as they appeared to the settler in pioneer 
days in all their picturesque beauty. Each stroke of 
the paddle, each bend in the river brings before the 
eye new scenes as the enchanted traveler glides 
onward in his course. 

The canoe employed for such journeys need not 
necessarily be a birch-bark, or a *'Eushton,'^ or a 
" Rob Roy;'^ any one of these patterns and many others 
will meet every requirement of the voyager. In my 
descent of the Mississippi, I used the birch-bark at 
the headwaters of the river, for the reason that it is 
best adapted to the rough treatment which is unavoid- 
able whenever a swift current with an uncertain bed 
is encountered; as this canoe is easily repaired with 
pitch if rendered unseawortliy by contact with 



348 DISCOVEEY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

obstructions. On reacliing Aitkin we replaced the 
Indian with modern canoes in which we continued our 
voyage to the Gulf. 

Taking it for granted that the tourist has decided 
upon the river as the most practicable highway for 
his purpose and that he has fixed upon the canoe as 
the most suitable conveyance at his command, he 
very naturally casts about for a desirable field in 
which to conduct his observations. If he is a resi- 
dent of the Valley of the Mississippi and would like 
to know more of the romantic history of North 
America, it is not necessary that he should make an 
extended journey to the classic Hudson, or the Cana- 
dian lakes, or ship his canoe to the sandy shores of 
New Jersey, or the rugged coast of New England. 
Right here in the great basin of the Father of Waters, 
unlimited opportunities may be found for gliding 
through fertile regions that are as beautiful and invit- 
ing to-day as they were before the touch of civilization 
had wrought its mighty change. The Rock, Wiscon- 
sin, Chippewa, Saint Croix, and Minnesota are among 
the most interesting affluents of the Upper Mississi]3pi, 
and the sights and experiences which are character- 
istic of this section of the Great River may reasonably 
be looked for upon any of the streams which are 
directly tributary to it. 

To return to our journey, we find that we have 
passed Minneiska and are now at Wabasha, a small 
town on the west bank of the river at the foot of 
Lake Pepin. It is twelve miles below Lake City; is 
an important grain market and has a population of 
between three and four thousand. 

Leaving Wabasha we move northward along the 
western shore of Pepin occupied with thoughts of 



WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 249 

the aboriginal legends wliich will always be associated 
with this beautiful sheet of water; thinking also of 
Father Hennepin and his adventures among the 
Indians^ he who was the first white man to break the 
solitude of these northern wilds, and who suffered 
captivity here; for it will be remembered that having 
made Hennepin and his companions prisoners, the 
savages held a consultation near the lake for the pur- 
pose of deciding what they should do with their cap- 
tives. Some were in favor of giving them their 
liberty, while others insisted that they should be put 
to death. Those who were in favor of the latter 
course cried and moaned throughout the night hop- 
ing by their tears to prevail upon the remainder of 
the tribe to consent to the murder of the whites. 
This experience led Hennepin to christen this mag- 
nificent sheet of water, the Lake of Tears, which title, 
it would seem, should have been retained when we 
consider the peculiar circumstances under which the 
adventurous Frenchman was induced to bestow it. 
The name which the lake now bears is evidently of 
French origin, but I have been unable to ascertain 
who applied it, or what incident led to its adoption. 

Being released from captivity through the compas- 
sion and influence of Wah-zee-koo-tay, the great 
Nahdawessy chief, Hennepin, still undaunted, pro- 
ceeded up the Mississippi to the Falls of Saint 
Anthony, which he named in honor of his patron 
saint. 

Following Hennepin, Baron La Hontan journeyed 
through Lake Pepin, and many leagues to the north- 
ward, located his Longue Eivierre, that romance of 
geography, which he described as having a ^' due 
western course,'^ but which, it was subsequently 



250 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

ascertained, was a creature of liis imagination, or 
rather, a singular combination of truth and fiction. 

Then came the gallant Le Sueur in 1700. Pad- 
dling up the lake, he continued the ascent of the 
Mississippi to the mouth of the Minnesota Eiver, and 
thence up that stream to its Blue Earth tributary. 
This daring spirit erected a log fort on the banks of 
the Mankato, and was the first to break the virgin 
soil of Minnesota with spade and pickaxe, which was 
done in digging for copper ore, large quantities of 
which, or a green earth supposed to be ore of that 
metal, he had conveyed to France. Le Sueur was 
doubtless the first white man who supplied the Indians 
of the Northwest with firearms and other products of 
civilized labor, and to his truthful journal we are 
greatly indebted for much of the reliable data we 
possess of the Indian races of the Upper Mississippi. 

After the lapse of a considerable period, Captain 
Jonathan Carver, a native of New England, passed 
through Lake Pepin during his journey up the Mis- 
sissippi. He had long contemplated such an expedi- 
tion, but circumstances did not favor him until 1776. 
With only a Frenchman and Mohawk Indian for 
guides, his heroic nature defied the perils of such a 
hazardous undertaking. Carver ascended the almost 
unknown river in a canoe, and exulted in the fact 
that he was the first of the Anglo-Saxon race to glide 
over these pure waters; to look upon this grand 
scenery and to tread the fertile soil of the Great 
Northwest. 

Turning from the adventures of the heroic old 
explorers, we find our train in front of the railway 
station at Lake City, one of those magic towns of 
the West, which, under favorable circumstances, leap 



i 



WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 251 

into existence and develop so rapidly as to far exceed 
the brightest anticipations of their founders. Beauti- 
fully located on the western shore of Pepin, enjoying 
excellent water communication with all points up 
and down the river, it will doubtless sustain the 
prominence it has already achieved. 

From the beginning of our journey the scenery has 
been strikingly picturesque, and yet, on leaving Lake 
City it increases in grandeur as we move forward 
toward Frontenac. The broad expanse of water, 
charming coves and huge bluffs which, in some 
instances, rise abruptly to a height of from five hun- 
dred to a thousand feet above the surface of the 
lake, present a picture that is seldom, if ever, equaled 
in the Valley of the Mississippi. 

As we cast our eyes to the eastward and look upon 
the majestic bluffs which line the Wisconsin shore 
our attention is arrested by Maiden Eock, and I 
recall the sad story of Winona and her leap from 
its summit, an incident that will always be of roman- 
tic interest to those who delight in the legendary 
lore of the Great River. Her youth, beauty, and 
the melancholy circumstances which led to her tragic 
death invest her life with a peculiar charm, and will 
ever form a thrilling chapter in the annals of Lake 
Pepin. 

It may be observed before proceeding further that 
Lake Pepin is twenty-one miles long and varies in 
width from one to three miles. In my descent of the 
Lake in 1881, I was led to conclude that the slightest 
breath of wind will produce a heavy swell, and from 
this circumstance it is the custom of voyagers on the 
river to pass through the lake, if possible, during the 
night; experience having taught them that it is gen- 




Dl 
UI 
< 



o 
o 



Hi 

a 

< 



UJ 

> 






(252) 



WINONA TO MINNEAPOLIS. 253 

erally much calmer then than during the day. 
Toward its outlet the valley widens considerably, 
owing to the entrance of the Chippewa Eiver, which 
at its mouth is five hundred yards wide, and is navi- 
gable at certain seasons of the year for over one hun- 
dred miles. The general trend of the lake is from 
west-northwest to east-southeast. The scenery along 
its shores contrasts strongly with that of the river. 
Instead of the rapid current of the Mississippi wind- 
ing around numberless islands, some of which dis- 
play well-wooded surfaces, the lake when calm pre- 
sents a smooth and sluggish ex^^anse unrelieved by a 
single island; nothing limits the view but the tower- 
ing bluffs which enclose its basin and seem like so 
many giant sentinels standing guard over the accu- 
mulated flood of the mighty stream as it passes quietly 
onward to the sea. 

Arrived at Frontenac we halt for a moment only. 
This is a growing hamlet of perhaps three hundred 
souls. In appearance it is a most romantic spot, 
with its white sand beach in front and bluffs in the 
background. Frontenac has already attracted some 
attention as a summer resort, and will doubtless in the 
course of a few years attain sufficient importance in 
this particular to meet in a measure at least the 
bright anticipations of its liberal and philanthropic 
founder — General Israel Garrard. 

Passing Frontenac we hurry on to Red Wing, situ- 
ated on the west bank of the Mississippi, six miles 
above the head of the lake. Like many other cities 
of Minnesota, Red Wing has an interestin-g history, 
and is a striking illustration of what an intelligent 
and industrious people can accomplish in the course of 
a very few years when naturally zealous, and their 



254 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

energies are properly directed. The standard of 
civilization was originally planted here by two Swiss 
missionaries, bearing the names of Denton and Garin, 
who arrived, accompanied by their wives, in 1838. 
The savage Dakotas at this period were in posses- 
sion of the territory, and these brave, self-denying 
Christians labored among them until the health of 
Denton failed in 1846, when the American Board of 
Missions appointed as their successors, John Alton 
and J. W. Hancock, two clergymen of Vermont. Two 
white families and about three hundred Indians 
were at that time the sole occupants of what is now 
the flourishing little city of Red Wing. 

In June, 1852, the Government entered into a 
treaty with the Indians which authorized the occupa- 
tion of the Territory by settlers, but the close of the 
same year saw only about forty people on the present 
site of Red Wing. On the following Christmas day 
the entire white community dined at the residence of 
William Freeborn, one of the first settlers. Soon 
after this pleasant event in its pioneer history, the 
place began to grow, and although its development 
has been moderate it has reached a population of 
between twelve and thirteen thousand. 

Red Wing enjoys the reputation of being one of the 
largest primary wheat markets in the country, having 
handled over three million bushels in a single year. 
Its manufactures also are quite extensive, while the 
clay deposits in its immediate vicinity are among the 
finest and richest in America. In addition to clay, 
a very superior quality of sand is found in this local- 
ity, in large quantities, and I was informed that it 
was the intention to establish a glass factory there at 
an early date. Being within a few miles of Lake 



WIN0:N^A to 3IINNEAP0LIS. 255 

Pepin, and enjoying every advantage which has 
favored her sister cities, Ked Wing may reasonably 
anticipate a steady growth and a rapid development 
of her great natural resources. 

Less than an hour's ride from Red Wing and we 
are at Hastings on the west bank of the river, twenty 
miles below Saint Paul. In my journey between these 
two points I again saw in striking contrast, my canoe 
voyage of 1881, and my present trip up river by rail. 
Then a thunder-storm, which had been slumbering for 
a few hours, broke out afresh at ten o'clock in the 
morning and followed us throughout the day — drench- 
ing us to the skin and making our experience any- 
thing but agreeable. Now, we were favored with a 
cloudless sky, and the most delightful weather in 
every particular. 

We passed the mouth of the Saint Croix Eiver just 
below Hastings. This stream enters the Mississippi 
from the east and forms the boundary between Wis- 
consin and Minnesota. For a considerable distance 
below the Saint Croix the water of the Mississippi, 
where shallow, is of a reddish tint, but very black in 
deep water. The red is occasioned by the sand seen 
at the bottom which is of that color. It may be said 
in explanation that the dark color is invariably com- 
mon to deep water when moderately limpid. 

Hastings is a pretty little city of modest pretensions, 
claiming a population of only about five thousand. 
In pioneer days it aspired to first place among the 
leading cities of Minnesota, and I am told was at one 
time considered the rival of Saint Paul and Minne- 
apolis. While it has not been able to reach the goal 
of its ambition, it has made considerable progress, 
and will doubtless in the course of another decade 



256 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

show a creditable increase in population and commer- 
cial importance. 

The route from Hastings to Saint Paul led us 
through one of the most fertile and picturesque 
regions of Minnesota. Some of the finest farms in 
the State are to be found here, while the scenery, if 
we except that along the shores of Lake Pepin, is not 
surpassed anywhere in the Northwest. 

Soon after leaving Hastings, we passed what is 
termed, and unquestionably is, the narrowest place in 
the Mississippi below the Falls of Saint Anthony. 
The river at this point is clear of islands and not more 
than one hundred yards wide. Pike states that his 
men rowed across in forty strokes of the oar; another 
traveler affirms that he crossed in 1857 from a dead 
start in sixteen strokes. This sudden contraction of 
the stream gives it a greatly increased depth, and in 
my soundings of 1881, I discovered it to be over one 
hundred feet deep, while its velocity was nearly 
doubled. 

At two o'clock in the afternoon, the church spires 
of Saint Paul were seen in the distance, and a few 
moments later we entered the hospitable gates of the 
capital city of Minnesota. 




CHAPTEE IT. 

EAKLY HISTORY OF MINKESOTA. 

ESS than fifty years ago the present State of 
Minnesota was a wilderness of woodland 
and of prairie — the home of the red man. 
In the deep recesses of her forests the 
Sioux, Chippewas, Winnehagos, and many 
other savage trihes met and contended 
for supremacy; while vast herds of buffalo 
grazed and roamed at will over her fertile prairies. 

Here tlie dark-browed Indian, in his birch canoe, 
floated and paddled down the rivers and over his own 
loved lakes; and from the rocky bluffs and hill-tops, 
whence to-day floats the banner of civilization, arose 
only the smoke of the council-fire, and was heard 
the war-whpop of the savage. Across these sky- 
tinted waters, once the battle-field of the red men, 
now reverberate the soft, sweet strains of the organ, 
the peaceful chimes of the church-going bell, and the 
busy hum of commerce. 

The sights and scenes which were characteristic 
of this region in aboriginal days have passed away. 
The remnants of a few Indian tribes still linger at 
the Headwaters of May-see-see-bee — their ideal river; 
and an occasional straggler from these bands is now 
and then seen in the streets of Saint Paul, but in a 
very few years at most, their homes, their hunting- 
grounds, and even their very burial-places will b© 
forgotten. 

17 (257) 



258 DISCOVEEY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

On this ground, the warlike Sioux and their 
implacable enemies, the equally fierce and uncom- 
promising Ohippewas, were for ages engaged in an 
exterminating conflict which spared neither age, nor 
sex, nor condition. This fair land has been the 
scene of many a sanguinary combat. Here thousands 
of the brave sons of the forest have sung their last 
wail of despair, and, suffering indescribable tortures, 
met death uncomplainingly. 

The bitter feuds of the Indians descended to 
pioneer times, and among the early settlers of Min- 
nesota there are many yet living who were reluctant 
witnesses of their incessant warfare. The soil upon 
which we tread to-day is impregnated with the blood 
of untutored savages, who, though denizens of the 
wild forest, and filled with hatred of their fellow-men, 
still, however, heard the voice of the Great Spirit in 
the morning breeze; beheld him in the dark cloud 
that rose in the west; recognized his presence in the 
setting sun, as he sank, enthroned under a glorious 
canopy, to his burning bed. Here they loved, fought, 
and delighted in the sports of the chase. 

Over two centuries ago the attention of Europeans 
was directed to the region now known as Minnesota. 
Fact and fancy had already invested this portion of 
North America with a romantic interest rarely, if 
ever, equaled in the history of exploration. From 
the year 1658, when the Jesuit missionary and explorer. 
Father Menard, was lost in the wilderness, down to 
the present time, Minnesota has ever been a most 
fruitful field for research. 

It has been observed in a previous chapter, that 
Father Louis Hennepin was the first white man to 
ascend the Upper Mississippi; then came La Hontan, 



EARLY HISTORY OF MIKi^ESOTA. 259 

Le Sueur, and Carver; the last of whom acquired great 
influence over the Indians; made several treaties with 
them, was elected to the chieftainship of a tribe, and 
given a vast tract of land embracing millions of acres 
and covering the very ground on which Saint Paul now 
stands. Although this gift is said to have been rati- 
fied by George III. it was not sustained by our Con- 
gress, and the heroic and adventurous Carver was, 
for several years, suffered to feel the annoyances of 
poverty, and, after a fruitless effort to obtain ade- 
quate compensation for his services, died of want in 
the city of London, where for a long time previous 
to his death he endured greater privations than had 
fallen to his lot in the American wilderness. 

Within the present century. Pike, Cass, Beltrami, 
Schoolcraft, Nicollet, Fremont, Long, and Keating 
have visited and explored Minnesota. The maps, 
journals, and works of these eminent explorers, and 
the narratives of their heroic predecessors, enable us 
to follow chronologically the leading events in its 
annals since Father Hennepin first looked upon the 
Falls of Saint Anthony, and to connect, with some 
degree of accuracy, the past with the present. These 
then are our sources of information, and these men 
the landmarks in a most romantic and interesting 
history. 

In addition to those who have visited Minnesota for 
the specific purpose of exploration, it is but just to 
mention a few of the pioneers and fur traders whose 
daring and enterprise have rendered their names his- 
toric. Of this class, Renville, Provengalle, Morrison, 
and Faribault are worthy of especial notice in 
the early records of the State. First in the list of 
these sturdy sons of the border was Joseph Renville, 



260 DISCOVEBY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

who was born upon the soil of Minnesota in the year 
1779. His father was a French trader and his mother 
an Indian. At this period there were not more than 
a half-dozen white families within the limits of the 
vast territory now comprising Northern Illinois, Wis- 
consin, Iowa, and Minnesota. 

The story of the life of this Christian pioneer forms 
an interesting link between the past and present his- 
tory of Minnesota. At the age of ten years, young 
Eenville was taken to Canada by his father and his 
education intrusted to a Roman Catholic priest. 
Longing for his home and friends, he left school 
before completing the prescribed course of study and 
returned to the land of his birth — the wilderness of 
the Northwest. 

Soon after his return from Canada, Renville acted 
as guide to Ceneral Pike and conducted that officer 
and his command to the Falls of Saint Anthony. In 
recognition of this service. Pike subsequently secured 
for him the appointment of Government interpreter. 
For many years he was an influential citizen of Min- 
nesota and for a long period held various local offices 
of importance. He was among the first, if not the 
very first, to plant corn and raise stock in the territory. 

Although bred in the Catholic faith, missionaries, 
without regard to religious denomination, received a 
cordial welcome at his trading-post. Years before 
there was a church within three hundred miles of his 
cabin, he made a journey to Prairie du Chien in 
order that he might wed in accordance with the 
forms of the Christian service. His Indian bride, 
who, it may be added, was the first Dakota to unite 
with the church and the first to die in its faith, 
through the teaching of her husband had embraced 



BAELY HISTORY OF MINN-ESOTA. 261 

Christianity some years before she had even seen 
a missionary. After a long, eventful, and useful life 
Renville died in 1856, and his death is said to have 
been peaceful and happy, and a valuable legacy to 
the church of which he had been an exemplary 
member for more than a half-century. 

Contemporaneous with Eenville, was Louis Proven- 
Qalle, one of the most daring pioneers of Minnesota, 
whose death occurred at Mendota in 1850. Stalwart 
in physique and possessed of an inflexible will, he 
was in every way well qualified for the rough duties 
of a frontier trader. 

Provengalle was possessed of but little education, 
and his books of Indian credit were understood only 
by himself, as all of the entries were made in hiero- 
glyphics, and yet his white and dusky customers 
never questioned their accuracy. This bold and fear- 
less trader was ever ready for the various emergencies 
which often confronted him, and never shrank from 
danger when the odds were against him. On one 
occasion, a band of Indians entered his store and 
threatened to seize his goods, whereupon he snatched 
up a firebrand and holding it to a keg of gun-powder 
avowed his determination to blow himself and them 
into the air if they took a single article. The pros- 
pect of being sent so suddenly to their '^'^ Happy 
Hunting-Grounds " quite disconcerted the pillagers, 
and they rushed headlong from the cabin, leaving 
Provengalle in possession of his entire stock. It is 
sufiBcient to add that after this episode, the Indians 
were most careful not to incur the displeasure of 
their white brother, and never gave him further 
trouble. 

Among the most successful fur traders of Minne- 



262 DISCOYEEY OF THE TEUE SOURCE. 

sota at the beginning of the present century, "William 
Morrison is justly given a position in the front rank. 
As early as 1802;, he established a line of trading- 
posts far up the Mississippi, which in succeeding 
years he extended to the Headwaters of the river. 

This enterprising trader was doubtless the first 
white man to look upon Lake Itasca, which he saw 
in 1804, and had he known at the time that its out- 
let was the Mississippi, would have been entitled to 
all the credit which, twenty-eight years later, was 
accorded to Schoolcraft. It was not the business of 
Morrison to give much attention to the geography 
and topography of the country; on the contrary he 
confined himself to the matter-of-fact duties of his 
occupation. He saw Itasca simply as one of the 
thousands of lakes of Minnesota, but not in its dis- 
tinctive relation to the Great Eiver. As an agent of 
the American Fur Company, Morrison continued his 
operations on the Upper Mississippi until 1826, dur- 
ing which period he did much to encourage immigra- 
tion to this interesting section of the country. 

Before Wisconsin was admitted to the sisterhood of 
States, all of that region lying east of the Mississippi 
was regarded as part of Wisconsin Territory; but 
after her admission as a State there was a consider- 
able population beyond her western boundary with- 
out any state or territorial government. At this 
juncture of aifairs, John Catlin, who had been secre- 
tary of the Territory of Wisconsin and had just been 
elected Governor of the new State, believing that the 
hitherto unclaimed portion of Minnesota was within 
his jurisdiction, ordered an election for delegate to 
the House of Representatives of the United States. 
This election, which was held October thirtieth, 1848, 



EAELY HISTORY OF MINNESOTA. 263 

resulted in nominating as candidates, Henry H. 
Sibley and Henry M. Rice, the former of whom being 
duly elected, proceeded to Washington and took his 
seat early in 1849. 

Sibley had scarcely had time to realize that he was 
a representative of the State of Wisconsin, when, at 
the close of the session of Congress on the third of 
March, Minnesota was organized as a Territory and 
that portion of A¥isconsin which he had formerly 
represented was now within the limits of Minnesota. 
On the next day, March fourth. General Taylor was 
inaugurated President, and a few days later, appointed 
the following officers for the government of the Ter- 
ritory. Alexander Ramsay, Grovernor; Charles K. 
Smith, secretary; A. Goodrich, chief-justice; and B. 
B. Meekers and David Cooper, associate-justices of 
the Supreme Court; H. L. Moss, United States dis- 
trict attorney; and A. M. Mitchell, United States 
marshal. All of these officials took the oath of office 
soon after and entered upon their respective duties. 
On the first of June, 1849, Governor Ramsay issued 
a proclamation announcing the organization of the 
territorial government. The Governor also ordered 
an election of members to the legislative assembly, 
and a delegate to Congress; the latter office being 
given to General Sibley, who was now returned to 
Washington as the representative of Minnesota. 

County officers were elected in November of the 
same year; but the regular election for all officers, 
including a delegate to Congress, was not held until 
the first Monday of September, 1850. At this elec- 
tion, General Sibley was returned to Congress and 
A. M. Mitchell became his colleague. 

Minnesota was now fairly launched upon her polit- 



264 DISCOYEKY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

ical career, and notliiDg seemed wanting to assure 
for her a prosperous and enviable future. Her great 
natural resources, her splendid commercial advan- 
tages, and her confident and enterprising citizens, all 
tended to make her outlook most promising and 
insure for her a brilliant and glorious destiny. 



CHAPTER Y. 




THE 



i( 



TWIiq- CITIES. 



ii 



F the numberless cities which have sprung 
into existence since the discovery of the 
American continent, few have attracted 
such wide-spread attention as Saint Paul 
and Minneapolis, and although the growth 
of some of our great commercial centers 
has been phenomenal, none have advanced 
more rapidly in wealth and population than the 
^' Twin Cities" of the Northwest. What they were 
and what they have become, the remarkable develop- 
ment of their resources, and when, how, and by whom 
the foundations of an unparalleled prosperity were 
laid, constitute one of the most interesting chapters 
in the history of Minnesota. 



SAINT PAUL. 

After the explorations of Hennepin, only an occa- 
sional missionary or adventurous traveler found his 
way to the Falls of Saint Anthony, and no perma- 
nent settlement was attempted in this vicinity until 
1838, when the first building was erected and a trad- 
ing-post located on the site of the present city of 
Saint Paul. In 1841, the Jesuits established a mis- 
sion here and built a log chapel, which they dedicated 
to Saint Paul, the name subsequently given to the 
town which quickly sprung up around it. 

(265) 



266 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Although the embryo Saint Paul was surveyed in 
1845, there were but three families on the ground in 
1847. In the same year it was laid out into village 
streets, and in 1849 became the capital of the Terri- 
tory. At this time its entire population did not 
exceed three hundred souls. A municipal govern- 
ment was established in 1854, when three thousand 
inhabitants were claimed. At the close of 1856 the 
population had increased to ten thousand. Very few 
of the original buildings were to be seen at this 
period, as the greater share of these relics of pioneer 
days had been replaced by more commodious and 
imposing residences and substantial business blocks. 
In 1880, twenty-four years later, its population had 
been multiplied by five, the census returns giving 
fifty thousand. In 1849 the business of the place 
amounted to 1131,000, which increased so rapidly 
that in 1854 it amounted to $6,000,000, with a 
capital of $700,000 invested. Since that date its 
financial development has been phenomenal, perhaps 
not equaled by more than two or three cities in this 
country. 

Saint Paul is most fortunate in its location, resting 
as it does upon three elevations or plateaus over- 
looking the Mississippi, and in the rear, surrounded 
by a gracefully undulating and elevated ridge, which, 
for the most part, constitutes the residence portion 
of the city. The central plateau is from eighty to 
ninety feet above the surface of the river, with an 
excellent steamboat landing at each extremity. 

The original town was regularly laid out, but the 
additions are irregular. The streets are well graded 
and generally paved. The upper terrace or plateau is 
underlaid by a stratum of limestone from twelve to 




<367) 



268 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOURCE. 

twenty feet thick, and of this material many of the 
buildings are constructed. Five bridges span the 
river; electric street-car lines connect all parts of the 
city, and reach also to Minneapolis, while a splendid 
sewerage system drains it of all impurities. 

Saint Paul is nominally at the head of navigation 
of the Mississippi, the further progress of steamboats 
up the river being checked by the rapids below the 
Falls of Saint Anthony. The river at this point is 
open from two hundred to two hundred and forty 
days in the year, and many steamboats arrive and 
depart daily. It is a thorough business city, its chief 
thoroughfares being lined with large and well-built 
stores and warehouses; the movement of its citizens 
on the streets indicating the hurry and preoccupation 
of pressing business pursuits. The casual visitor is 
reminded of Chicago more than of any other city of the 
West. At its back lie the lumber and grain producing 
regions of Minnesota, Dakota, and Wisconsin, which 
are yearly filling up with an intelligent and indus- 
trious people. Much of their produce finds an out- 
let at this port, and here they look for a great portion 
of their supplies. The retail trade of Saint Paul is 
very large, and it is also in great part the wholesale 
center of a large circle of smaller towns. 

Its double line of river bank affords ample wharfage; 
while its network of railways connect it with Min- 
neapolis and every town of importance in Minnesota 
and adjoining States. These secure permanence to 
its prosperity, since railroads, even more than rivers, 
make flourishing cities at the present day. 

The State Capitol occupies an entire square on an 
elevation overlooking the city and river. The ground 
upon which this building stands is sightly, and it is 



THE ^^TWIN" CITIES." 269 

to be hoped that the present structure will soon be 
replaced by something more in keeping with the 
resources, enterprise, and bright anticipations of 
Saint Paul, and the grandest State of the great 
Northwest. 

Among the institutions which are worthy of notice 
the Library Association, the Minnesota Historical 
Society, and Academy of Natural Sciences deserve 
especial mention. The Library Association and 
Historical Society have fine libraries, and are open to 
the public daily; while the Academy of Sciences has 
upon its shelves over a hundred and forty thousand 
specimens in natural history. 

In its early days the Historical Society was the 
pride of Minnesota, and counted among its members 
many of the representative men of the State and 
country. To be named as its president or secretary 
was an evidence of distinguished citizenship. Dating 
from the organization of the territorial legislature in 
1849, this society has had a most eventful and 
interesting career. Through the enterprise of Gov- 
ernor Ramsey and Rev. E. D. Neil, jts first president 
and secretary, much valuable information has been 
obtained relating to aboriginal times and the early 
settlement of the State. 

Saint Paul enjoys superior religious and educa- 
tional advantages, as its numerous schools, and 
churches of all denominations, attest. Many of the 
churches are elegant structures, and the ministrations 
of the clergy are characterized by well-directed zeal. 

The press of a city has much to do in promoting 
its welfare and shaping its destinies, and the impor- 
tance of this powerful and influential factor in any 
community can hardly be overestimated. A sketch 



270 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

of Saint Paul and Minneapolis would therefore seem 
incomplete without some reference to the enterpris- 
ing journalists and journals of these cities that have 
contributed so largely to their development. Through 
their unbounded faith in the resources and future of 
this section of our country and their unceasing labors 
in its behalf, they have accomplished a work whose 
value it would be difficult to determine, and which 
. entitles them to rank among the benefactors of the 
Northwest. 

*rhe first to establish a newspaper at Saint Paul 
was Professor A. Randall of Cincinnati, who had 
been for some years identified^ with the Geological 
Survey of Minnesota; its name was the Minnesota 
Register, and the date of its birth April twenty- 
seventh, 1849. Although the initial number of this 
sheet was printed in Cincinnati, it was dated at Saint 
Paul, and was in every sense a Saint Paul newspaper 
— a Minnesota newspaper, and the first ever published 
in the Territory. 

On the day following the issue of the Register 
another paper, bearing the significant title of 
Pioneer, made its appearance. Although the 
Register had twenty-four hours the start of its 
rival, it soon fell behind in circulation and popularity, 
and but for its timely union with the Chronicle 
would doubtless have collapsed on the very thresh- 
old of its career. In the meantime, Randall of the 
former and James Hughes, who had established the 
latter, severed their connection with their protege, 
the Chronicle and Register, leaving it in the 
hands of Major McLean and D. Owens, under whom 
it was conducted with success for some months in 
the interest of the Whig party. 



i 



THE ''TWIN CITIES." 371 

Having interests outside of their paper, McLean 
and Owens sold the establishment to David Olmstead, 
a democrat, and it now became the organ of that 
party in Minnesota. It is said by some local writers 
that during the period the Chronicle and Register 
was owned by Olmstead it had several editors, but 
"for the most part, it edited itself." 

The first number of the Minnesota Democrat was 
brought out in December, 1849, by D. A. Kobertson, 
and at about the same time, 0. J. Henniss, formerly 
of Philadelphia, purchased the Chronicle and Regis- 
ter. A ±ew months later this sheet succumbed — the 
type and presses being transferred to the Democrat. 

The Minnesotian was an oifshoot of the Pioneer, 
and its first number was issued September seventeenth, 
1851 . Its publication was undertaken by a committee, 
with J. P. Owens in charge of the editorial and J. vS. 
Terry at the head of the financial department. On 
the sixth of January following it passed into the hands 
of Owens and Moore, under whose names it continued 
for several years. 

Since 1849 over a hundred daily and weekly news- 
papers have been established in the '' Twin Cities," 
many of which have proved successful ventures and 
justified the enthusiastic confidence of their enter- 
prising founders. The history of these papers 
alone, if presented in detail, would furnish material 
for a large and interesting volume, but is entirely 
beyond the aim of the present work, which is simply 
to deal with the press of to-day, making slight 
reference only to its early beginnings. 

Prominent among the existing journals of Saint 
Paul is the Pioneer-Press, an ably edited and 
influential daily, originally the Pioneer, founded in 



272 DISCOYEET OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

1849 by James Goodhue. Its success as a newspaper 
and organ of public opinion may be inferred from 
the fact that since its publication it has superseded 
or absorbed no less than twenty-five of its contempo- 
raries. The Press, the latest and most important of 
those acquired, was founded in 1861 by James 
Wheelock, and united its fortunes with the Pioneer 
in 1875, from which date to the present the paper 
has borne the compound title of Pioneer-Press. 
Journalism can not be said to have had any real 
existence in Minnesota before the establishment of 
this paper. The Pioneer-Press now extends its 
circulation and influence over Minnesota and the 
adjoining States. Its office in Saint Paul is said to 
be one of the finest buildings of its kind in the 
country. 

Next in point of seniority is the Saint Paul Dis' 
patch, an evening paper, founded in February, 1863, 
by H. P. Hall, David Ramaley, and John W. Cun- 
ningham. The Dispatch has been a consistent 
exponent and advocate of Republican principles from 
its foundation to the present day, and an eminently 
successful sheet from its start, when it presented only 
four columns of news to its subscribers, a fifth column 
being devoted to the editorial exposition of its politics. 
It was enlarged twice during its first year owing to 
an increasing demand and the growth of Repub- 
lican views. Its size has been considerably increased 
since, and to-day it presents an amplitude of surface 
nearly equal to that of the dailies of Chicago and New 
York. In 1870, Ramaley withdrew from the partner- 
ship, Cunningham having parted with his interest 
shortly after the founding of the paper. Thus, 
Hall, in 1870, became sole proprietor and retained 



THE ^^TWIIiT CITIES.'" 273 

the ownership until September, 1876, when the phmt 
was disposed of to a company, at the head of which 
was H. A. Castle. In July, 1880, the proprietorship 
passed to W. R. Marshall and C. 0. Andrews, the 
latter gentleman retiring in the following year, 
Castle again becoming the owner of the paper. In 
1885, George K. Shaw succeeded Castle, and a few 
months later, George Thompson, its present pro- 
prietor, undertook the management of the paper. 

The Dispatch, after frequently changing hands, 
has, at length, found its place as a powerful repre- 
sentative and index of public opinion. Under its 
present vigorous management it has succeeded 
beyond all precedent, and is to-day the recognized 
leading Republican journal of the Northwest. It is 
an eminently " wide-awake"' channel of news, 
having the franchise of the Associated Press and the 
exclusive day news of the United Press — the two 
greatest news-gathering associations in the world. It 
has also a corps of several hundred special corre- 
spondents in various parts of the country and in 
nearly every city of the Northwest. The decided 
views of the Dispatch, in politics, have gained for it 
a host of friends and supporters and added greatly 
to its influence and circulation. It is to-day par 
excellence the Republican paper of Saint Paul, and 
its tone in all social and political matters has secured 
for it a distinction second to no other newspaper in 
Minnesota and the adjoining States. Its prominent 
position to-day is doubtless an augury of still greater 
success in the future. 

January fifteenth, 1881, the first issue of the Saint 

Paul Glol)e appeared as an organ of the Democracy of 

the Northwest. In 1885 it passed into the control 
18 



274 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

of the Glohe Publishing Company, and has since 
been recognized as a great and influential journal 
under the efficient management of Hon. Lewis Baker, 
formerly of the Wheeling Register, assisted by Henry 
T. Black. It has deservedly attained an immense 
circulation in Saint Paul and Minneapolis; in the 
latter of which its patrons are nearly as numerous 
as in the former city. It also circulates through- 
out Minnesota and all the adjoining States. The 
Glohe publishing office in the capital city is a 
stately ten-story, brown stone building, while in 
Minneapolis, the company has erected a magnifi- 
cent edifice similar to their headquarters in Saint 
Paul. Under its able management the Globe has 
attained the position of the leading Democratic 
journal of the Northwest. 

The Daily Neios, founded in December, 1887, is 
the junior member of the Saint Paul daily press. In 
February, 1892, its control passed to the ^e?^5 Publish- 
ing Comj)any, of which Clarence E. Sherin is the 
president and general manager. It was originally a 
sheet of four pages, but is now composed of eight 
and on Saturdays of sixteen jiages. Independent in 
politics, it is earnest in its advocacy of measures 
promotive of the public good. The great increase 
of its circulation has rendered necessary an enlarge- 
ment of its premises and an important addition to its 
plant. It has already attained a well-recognized 
standing as a purveyor of news and an index of public 
opinion. 

The current literature of Saint Paul is not con- 
fined to the daily press. Some of its ablest period- 
icals are published in the form of weeklies and 
monthlies, and cater to the wants of the citizen 



THE ''TWIN" cities/' 275 

under various titles. Herein the threads of history, 
science, and art are woven into Northwestern life. 
The numerous departments of industry are well 
and faithfully represented, while room is found to 
minister to the religious sentiment of the various 
churches. 

Among the weekly publications of Saint Paul the 
following may be enumerated: The Herald, Jour- 
nal of Commerce, Northtvestern Chronicle, Trade 
Reporter, West Saint Paul Times, and others of 
equal merit. The monthlies and bi-monthlies are 
probably still more numerous and varied, including 
the NortUtvestern Magazine, Booh Talh, Financial 
News, Odd Felloiv, Woman's Record, and North- 
ivestern Farrner. 

There are many points of interest and places of 
resort in and around Saint Paul, among which 
Carver's Cave, Fountain Cave, White Bear and Bald 
Eagle lakes are the most frequently visited. 

On the eastern bank of the Mississippi, near the 
shore, and within the city limits, is the celebrated 
Carver's Cave, which is reached by an opening in 
Dayton Bluff. It was in the interior of this cave 
that Captain Carver made his famous treaty with the 
Dakota Indians. He describes it as a ''remarkable 
cave of amazing depth, having an entrance about ten 
feet wide, and an arch within about fifteen feet high 
and about thirty broad, the bottom consisting of clear 
white sand." 

Concerning the lake and some other features which 
constitute striking peculiarities of this cave. Carver 
doubtless gave more or less exaggerated accounts; 
still, in view of the fact that he had no instruments 
or other means of taking measurements, it is perhaps 



276 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOURCE. 

after all not strange that lie differs materially from 
the figures given by more recent investigation. Con- 
tinuing his description of the cave, he explains that 
about thirty feet from its entrance he came to a 
lake, the water of which was transparent and extended 
to an indefinite distance. Being unable to acquire a 
correct knowledge of its dimensions, he says: ^'^I 
threw a pebble toward the interior part of it with 
my utmost strength; I could hear that it fell into 
the water, and notwithstanding it was of a small size, 
it caused an astonishing noise that reverberated 
through all these gloomy regions. I found in this 
cave many Indian hieroglyphics, which appeared very 
ancient, for time had nearly covered them with moss, 
so that it was with difficulty I could trace them. 
They were cut in a rude manner upon the inside 
of the wall, which was composed of a stone so 
extremely soft that it might be easily penetrated 
with a knife. ^' 

It is to be regretted that while Carver found suffi- 
cient excuse for complaining that Hennepin and 
La Hontan were often in error as to their estimates, 
he was frequently wide of the mark himself in many 
of his calculations, and those who visit Carver^s Cave 
to-day will hardly reconcile their own view to that 
portrayed by its famous discoverer. 

Fountain Cave is two miles from the city, and 
derives its name from a small stream Avhich flows 
through it, and which, doubtless, was the originating 
cause of the cave. It contains several chambers, 
some of ample dimensions, and it is said that at one 
thousand feet from the opening in the rock no termi- 
nation has yet been discovered. The rock is of pure 
white, soft sandstone, and the entrance to the cave 






H 










^. 



m 

ro 
m 
> 

33 



> 
m 




(2777 



278 DISCOTERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

about fifteen feet in width. About three hundred 
feet from its mouth a cascade, some twenty feet in 
height, falls into the stream. This cave is a favorite 
retreat during the summer months, and presents 
many features of interest to the geologist. 

White Bear Lake, twelve miles from Saint Paul, 
and about an equal distance from Minneapolis, is 
already a popular pleasure resort. This lake is about 
four miles in length, and nearly midway between its 
eastern and western shores is a long forest-covered 
islet. The water of the lake is clear, pure, and of 
the color of the bright-blue sky overhead. 

The largest fleet of sailing yachts to be found on 
any western lake is seen floating on White Bear, 
many of them costly and of elegant construction. 
Large hotels have been erected on the eastern and 
southern banks for the accommodation of visitors, 
while picturesque villas dot its western shore, owned 
chiefly by wealthy business men of Saint Paul and 
Minneapolis, who send their families here to reside 
during the summer, and join them each evening after 
tne close of business. 

White Bear is the oldest summer resort in the 
State, and ^'^ camping out^' on its shores is reduced to 
a science. We found several encampments near the 
lake large enough to be called villages, mauy of the 
tents being as commodious and comfortably furnished 
as the parlors and bedrooms of a well-ordered city 
residence. 

Bald Eagle Lake lies a mile beyond White Bear. 
It is a beautiful sheet of water, but not so large as the 
latter. It has high banks and is well stocked with 
several varieties of fish, which have made it quite 
famous in this particular. A few pretty cottages 



THE "TWIN" CITIES. 279 

have been built here and occupied as summer resi- 
dences. Some years since a mineral spring was dis- 
covered a short distance from the lake and a pavil- 
ion erected over it by the late Dr. Post of Saint Paul, 
who also built a summer home near by. 

In the country adjacent to White Bear and Bald 
Eagle there are numerous smaller lakes, which are 
frequently sought by those who delight in fishing 
and duck hunting. The city park and race- 
course are located on the shores of Lake Como, two 
miles from the center of Saint Paul. 

MINI^EAPOLIS. 

Having viewed Saint Paul and its surroundings, we 
now proceed to a brief description of its sister city. 
Saint Anthony, now within the corporate limits of 
Minneapolis, saw its beginning in December, 1849, 
although a single log cabin stood upon its site twelve 
years before this date. The first dwelling in Minne- 
apolis proper was erected during the same winter by 
Colonel John H. Stevens, who had served with dis- 
tinction under Scott and Taylor in Mexico. When 
his services were no longer required upon the tented 
field, this gallant soldier sought a home on the 
frontier, and, proceeding to Minnesota, built his rustic 
cottage on the west bank of the Mississippi near the 
Falls of Saint Anthony. 

The name '' Minneapolis " is compounded of Indian 
and Greek — Minne being the Sioux for water, and 
polls the Greek for city, thus signifying the Water 
City, or City of Waters. In a lecture before the 
Minneapolis Lyceum in 1855, Colonel Stevens said: 

" One of our early and most perplexing difficulties 
was the selection of a name for our embryo city. 



%> 



280 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Colonel James M. Goodhue thought ' All Saints ' to 
be a good name. Miss Mary Schofield wrote many 
letters for publication in Eastern papers and always 
dated from ^ All Saints.' At our first claim meeting 
in 1851, ' Lowell ' was adopted. At a public meeting 
in November of that year our entire population was 
present and we hit upon ''Albion.' This name the 
citizens soon got tired of, and at last as a compromise 
it was left to George D. Bowman, editor of the Saint 
Anthony Express. Mr. Bowman proposed, '^Minne- 
apolis,' which met some opposition at first, but he 
came out every week with an article in his paper on 
^Minneapolis,' and all finally swallowed it." 

Whatever may be said of the various names which 
were suggested, discussed, and applied to this growing 
metropolis of the Upper Mississippi, it is now uni- 
versally admitted that Minneapolis is a happy com- 
bination of the native Sioux and classic Greek, and 
beautifully expresses the idea which its author 
desired to convey. 

Minneapolis is located on what was formerly 
known as the Military Reserve of Fort Snelling, a 
tract of land nine miles square, assigned to and sur- 
rounding the fort for purposes of forage. In 1855 
Congress granted the right of pre-emption to the 
settlers, since which its growth has been most 
remarkable. The city proper is situated on the 
west side of the river, while Saint Anthony, which 
was united to it by mutual agreement, is on the 
east side, the two forming one city under the name 
of Minneapolis. 

Minneapolis is ten miles above Saint Paul and is 
built on a broad esplanade overlooking the river and 
its falls, rapids, and picturesque bluffs. The streets 



THE '"TWIN CITIES. 281 

are generally laid out at riglit angles eighty feet 
in width, bordered by sidewalks twenty feet wide, 
with double rows of trees on each side throughout 
the residence portion of the city. The founders of 
Western cities have gained wisdom from the mistakes 
of those of the Eastern coast. Notwithstanding the 
broad expanse of country, which to the early colonists 
seemed limitless, the cities and towns built on and near 
the Atlantic seaboard were modeled upon European 
plans, even to the narrow streets and compact rows 
of buildings. Not so in the West. The original 
plans of our Western towns are so wisely designed 
that no future increase of population, with its attend- 
ant demands for dwelling and business houses, can 
ever transform them into an aggregation of dense, 
stifling streets and lanes, such as are too often found 
in most of our Eastern cities. Health and beauty are 
two objects which have been kept steadily in view in 
their foundation. Though their rude beginnings 
have not always been attractive, the possibilities of 
beauty are always there, and time is sure to develop 
them. 

A suspension bridge connecting Saint Anthony 
with Minneapolis was built in 1855. It was not only 
the first bridge built in Minnesota, but was also the 
first to span the Mississippi. A ferry-boat established 
here in 1851 brought its proprietor, that summer, 
three hundred dollars. In 1855, the receipts from 
this ferry had increased to twelve thousand. Tlie 
population of the united towns amounted to over a 
hundred and fifty thousand in 1890, with tlie certain 
prospect of doubling and even trebling these figures 
in a very few years. The river here is about six hun- 
dred yards in width, and above Saint Anthony Falls 



282 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

rushes tlirougli low banks in foaming, tremulous 
rapids, until it reaches the precipice, whence it 
springs in a single leap down a distance of sixteen 
feet. Thence it proceeds in a series of rapids over 
piles of rock in its bed for several hundred yards, 
the great descent of eighty-two feet being made in a 
little less than two miles. Below the Falls the cliffs 
are bold and picturesque, the character of the 
scenery varying. 

Concerning the height of the Falls and the breadth 
of the river at this point, much incorrect information 
has been published. Hennepin, who was the first 
white man to visit the spot, states them to be from 
fifty to sixty feet high. It was this explorer who 
gave them the name which they now bear, in honor 
of Saint Anthony of Padua, whom he had taken for 
the protection of his discovery. Carver reduces their 
height to about thirty feet. His strictures upon Hen- 
nepin, however, whom he charges with exaggeration, 
might with propriety be retorted upon himself, and 
we feel strongly inclined to speak of this daring 
adventurer as he spoke of his predecessor: *^The 
good Father, I fear, too often had no other founda- 
tion for his accounts than report, or, at most, a 
slight inspection.^' Lieutenant Pike, who is more 
accurate than any traveler whom we have followed, 
states the perpendicular fall to be sixteen and a half 
feet. It was again measured in 1817, with a plumb- 
line, from the table rock from which the water 
was falling, and found to be the same. The meas- 
urement at this time was made with a rough water- 
level, which made it about fifteen feet. The dif- 
ference of a foot is trifling and might depend upon 
the place where the investigation was made; but we 



THE '^TWIN- CITIES. * 283 

can not account for the statement made by School- 
craft that the river has a perpendicular pitch of 
forty feet, and this as late as fourteen years after 
Pike's measurement. 

The breadth of the river near the brink of the fall 
is five hundred and ninety-four yards. Below the 
fall it contracts to about two hundred yards. There 
is a considerable rapid both above and below, and a 
portage of two hundred and sixty poles in length 
was usually made here in pioneer days. The differ- 
ence of level between the place of disembarking and 
reloading was stated by Pike to be fifty-eight feet, 
which is undoubtedly very near the truth. The 
entire fall to the foot of the rapids, which extend 
down the river several miles, may be estimated at 
about one hundred feet. 

The Palls of Saint Anthony are not without a 
legend to hallow their scenery and enhance the 
interest which of themselves they are well calculated 
to awaken. The following tragic story was current 
some years ago among the Indians and white settlers 
in the neighborhood of the Falls:/ A Chippewa girl, 
bearing the name of Ampato Sapa, which signifies 
'^ The Dark Day,'' was wedded to an Indian of the 
Dakota tribe. Ampato was not beautiful but young 
and proud, and the mother of two lovely children. 
For several years they lived together happily, and 
both doted on their little ones with a depth of feeling 
seldom equaled by more civilized races. Becoming 
great as a hunter, the husband of Ampato was con- 
sidered a man of importance, and many of the sur- 
rounding families sought his friendship and protection, 
and shared the products of his chase. Some of them, 
anxious to strengthen their interest with the success- 



284 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

ful hunter, urged liim to form a connection with 
their family, telling him that a second wife was indis- 
pensable to a man of his standing, who would 
probably soon be acknowledged as a chief. The 
daughter of an influential man was finally presented 
to him, and, animated with the desire of attaining to 
high honor in his nation by a union with the daugh- 
ter of a man of influence, he took a second wife with- 
out mentioning the subject to the young mother of 
his children. Desirous of conciliating his first wife, 
for whom he still retained much regard, he intro- 
duced the subject to her in these Avords: 

'^ You know, Ampato, that I can love no woman 
so fondly as I do you. With deep regret I have seen 
you subjected to toils which must be oppressive and 
from which I would gladly release you, yet I know of 
no other way of doing so than by associating with 
you in the duties of our household one who shall 
relieve you from the trouble of entertaining the 
numerous guests whom my growing importance in 
the nation collects around me. I have therefore 
resolved upon taking another wife, but she shall 
always be subject to your control.^' 

With the deepest concern, his wife listened to this 
unexpected announcement. She remonstrated with 
him in the kindest terms, and tearfully entreated, by 
every consideration her devoted love could suggeoi, 
that he would not let another take her place in his 
affections. The Indian, with much duplicity, still 
concealed from her the secret of his marriage with 
another, while she put forth her strongest appeals in 
the effort to convince him that she was equal to the 
tasks imposed upon her. She pleaded all the endear- 
ments of their past life, dwelling on his former fond- 



THE ^''TWii^" cities/^ 285 

ness for her, his regard for her happiness and that 
of their children,, and cautioned him to beware of 
the consequences of uniting himself to a woman of 
whom he knew very little. Finding her still opposed 
to his wishes, he at length informed her that further 
02oj)osition on her part was useless, as he had already 
selected another partner; and that if she could not 
receive his new wife as a friend, she must receive her 
as an encumbrance, for he had resolved she should 
reside with him. 

Deeply distressed at this information, she stole 
away from the cabin wHh her infant and fled to her 
father. She remained with him for a time, until 
some Indians with whom he lived went up the Mis- 
sissippi on a winter hunt. When they returned in 
early spring, with their canoes loaded with skins, 
they encamped near the Falls. After they had left 
in the morning, Ampato lingered near the spot, and 
soon launching a light canoe, entered it with her 
babes. She paddled down the stream chanting her 
death-song. Her friends saw her only too late, and 
their attempts to arrest her progress were of no avail. 
She was heard to sing in doleful strain of the past 
ha2")piness she had enjoyed while she was the sole 
object of her husband's affections. Finally her voice 
was drowned in the roar of the cataract; for a 
moment the canoe and its haj^less freight trembled 
on the brow of the watery jirecipice, and in an instant 
more mother and children were lost forever in the 
foam below. 

' ' Yet, that Death-Song, they say, is heard 
Above the gloomy waters' roar, 
When trees are by the night-wind stirred, . 

And darkness broods o'er wave and shore." / 



286 DISCOYEEY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

The Falls are divided by Cataract Island, from 
which a dam has been constructed to the eastern 
shore to furnish water-power for manufacturing pur- 
poses, and nearly the whole volume of water now 
rushes through the western channel. The Falls may 
be seen with equal advantage from either shore, but 
the best view is obtained from the center of the sus- 
pension bridge which crosses the river above them 
and from which the rapids may be seen boiling and 
rushing immediately beneath. 

These Falls furnish abundant power for manu- 
facturing purposes, and as early as 1856, large mills 
were already in operation at Saint Anthony, in which 
millions of feet of lumber were annually sawn. The 
logs which fill the Mississippi above the Falls, some- 
times even to the point of obstructing navigation, 
all have their destination at Minneapolis. Here they 
are converted into lumber and laths and sent to 
distant sections of the country, perhaps in the form 
of huge rafts again set afloat upon the river. The 
lumber business of this city is immense, probably 
exceeding that of any other city in the country. It 
is equaled only by the flour-mills of this rapidly 
growing western giant. 

Although originally termed the ^'^Oity of Waters,^'' 
Minneapolis is to-day more widely known as the 
^^ Flour City,^^ owing to its numerous flour-mills 
which now line both banks of the river from the 
southern to the extreme northern limit of the city. 
There is no doubt that Minneapolis stands at the 
head of the flour manufacturing of the world. She 
certainly has no equal in this particular in this 
country or Europe. The wheat raised in such 
immense quantities on neighboring farms is ground 




^HPr 






VO-^^I^^^ • xv.vA.v>-(- 



FALLS OF MINNEHAHA. 
(287) 



288 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

into flour and shipped to every corner of the habitable 
globe. 

The tourist who visits the ''Twin Cities'' will dis- 
cover at a glance that Minneapolis is more a manufact- 
uring than a commercial city. Saint Paul monopolizes 
much of the commerce of the Upper Mississippi, as 
steamboats can only ascend to Fort Snelling, some 
miles below the Falls of Saint Anthony, hence Minne- 
apolis depends largely upon the railroads for trans- 
portation. But Avhile Saint Paul measures miles of 
streets lined with stores and warehouses, the " Flour 
City" exhibits an equal number of mills and factories. 

Minneapolis is a city of beautiful homes, and it is 
perhaps no exaggeration to say that few, if any, of 
our American cities present greater natural attractions. 
The streets, as we have said, are broad and amply 
shaded, and the residences are, many of them, very 
handsomely built, and surrounded by ornamental 
gardens. 

The University of Minnesota is located here, and 
there are also several other important educational 
institutions; while the public schools are in every 
respect among the best in the country. Of her 
libraries, the Athenaeum ranks first, having an excel- 
lent and commodious reading-room, and on its shelves 
over twenty thousand volumes; the University pos- 
sesses a library of several thousand, chiefly works of 
a scientific character. There are over a hundred 
churches of all denominations, and some of the sacred 
edifices are very elegant structures. 

The press of Minneapolis is not among the least 
of the latter's claims to distinction. It is in most 
respects on a par with that of cities many times its 
size, its editors and managers being, for the most part. 



THE ''TWIN" CITIES." 289 

men of large and liberal views, and writers of experi- 
ence, judgment, and tact. The dailies supply all 
the news up to the latest moment of going to press, 
and the editorials, as a rule, are tolerant yet earnest 
in dealing with local, state, or national issues. 

Almost coeval with the city itself is the Minne- 
apolis Tribune, an important journal, founded in 
18G6. It is a morning paper, and publishes also a 
noon and an evening edition. In 1877, the plant 
was purchased by David Blakely, whose energy and 
tact may be said to have laid the foundation of 
its ultimate success as an exponent of Republican 
principles and a purveyor of cosmopolitan news. 
Blakely was joined by General A. B. Nettleton, who 
took a half interest in the paper in 1884. These 
gentlemen sold out to A. J. Blethen of the Kansas 
City Journal, and W. E. Haskell, son of E. B. 
Haskell, editor and joint proprietor of the Boston 
Herald. In 1888 Haskell purchased the interest of 
of his partner, and, in conjunction with Charles M. 
Palmer of the Northiuestern Miller, assumed entire 
control of the paper. In the following year Haskell 
became sole proprietor, C. M. Schultz being manag- 
ing editor. The ownership is now vested in ex-Senator 
Gilbert A. Pierce and W. J. Murphy of Grand 
Forks, North Dakota. These gentlemen are 
thoroughly identified with the newspaper business, 
and under their able management the TriMine has 
attained a great success, its circulation embracing 
Minnesota and extending to the adjoining States of 
Wisconsin, Iowa, and the Dakotas. 

In 1890 the Tribune met with a great disaster, its 
handsome building having been destroyed by fire. 
A commodious structure has since been erected, and 

19 



290 DISCOVEKY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

at the present date, 1892, the paper is a potent factor 
in all that concerns the interests of the section it 
represents. 

The Evening Journal was established in 1878, and 
has attained a comparatively wide circulation. In 
November, 1885, it passed under the control of its 
present management, Lucius Swift, J. S. McLain, 
W. E. Brownlee, and W. B. Chamberlain. In poli- 
tics the Journal claims to be independent, with a 
leaning toward Eepublicanism, and aims to mold 
public opinion upon most topics of general interest. 
In the discussion of social and public questions it 
expresses its views fearlessly, and occasionally with 
effect. Its news columns are supplied by the Asso- 
ciated Press and the United Press, and furnish liber- 
ally the latest intelligence of the day upon every 
matter of imj)ortance to its readers. Special corre- 
spondents throughout Minnesota, AVisconsin, Michi- 
gan, Dakota, Iowa, and in the East, add interest to 
its columns. 

The Times is the junior member of the Minneapo- 
lis daily press, having made its first appearance 
October first, 1889, in the form of a single sheet. Its 
growth in size has been rapid to a double sheet on 
week days and a sixteen-page paper on Sundays. The 
reports of the Associated and United Press are 
utilized in its news columns, while a large number 
of well-known correspondents in most of the prin- 
cipal cities enliven its pages with well-written 
articles on general topics of interest. The Times is 
a consistent advocate of Democratic principles, and 
in the discussion of politics and social questions is 
uniformly fair and liberal! The paper is owned by 
a company, of wliich F. G. Winston of Minneapolis 



THE '^TWII^ CITIES."^ 291 

is the president; John Blanchard, a gentleman of 
large experience in the conduct of a newspaper, is 
editor-in-chief; the management being under the able 
suj)ervision of Frank L. Thresher. 

Intellectually and materially, Minneapolis presents 
all the features of a progressive city, and, if space 
permitted, extended reference could be made to sev- 
eral of its numerous weekly and monthly publications, 
which are mostly of a high order, and contribute to 
the moral and physical advantages of its citizens. 
Prominent among the weeklies is the Northwestern 
Presbyterian, under the able editorship of Rev. John 
B. Donaldson, D.D.; the Saturday Spectator, an 
admirably conducted paper, replete with reliable 
information upon most subjects of interest to the 
reading public. The Mississippi Valley Livniberman, 
edited by J. Newton Nind, is the representative of 
the immense lumber interests of the Northwest. The 
Northioestern Miller, of vast practical utility to the 
milling interest and, indirectly, to the growers of 
wheat. The Farmers' Tribune; the Temperance 
Review; the Canadian-American, and others with 
equal claim to notice, including Sunday German, 
Swedish, and Norwegian weeklies. 

Among the leading monthlies are the Minnesota 
Farmer, Meclianical World, Midland Montlily, and 
Housekeeper. In short, the journalism of this mod- 
ern city of scarcely a half century^s growth would 
be creditable to any Eastern city of its size and thrice 
its age. 

A summer resort has become almost indispensable 
to many during the heated period of the year. Fail- 
ing health, the desire for change from city life, or 
the demands of fashion, seeks some favorite watering- 



292 DISCOVEEY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

place or rustic retreat for rest, recuperation, or pleas- 
ure. These are found in the East at more or less con- 
siderable distances from the principal cities. In the 
Northwest the change or relief is found within easy 
reach of the home, and no cities in the United States 
are more happily situated in this respect than Saint 
Paul and Minneapolis. Beautiful lakes and scenery, 
at comparatively short distances from either city, are 
reached by raiiw^ayor electric cars within the space of 
a half hour, and afford all the rest and enjoyment 
tired nature craves, or tliat is obtainable at an inland 
watering-place. A healthful, invigorating climate, 
surrounded by natural beauty and facilities for bath- 
ing in the crystal waters, or sailing in magnificently 
appointed yachts or steamboats, form an essential 
element of pleasure and relief to be found within, or 
a little beyond, the city limits. The summer tourist 
can here indulge in the delights of fishing or hunting. 
Points of special beauty and interest, gratifying to the 
senses, are numerous in the neighborhood of these 
lakes, and a month^s residence on their banks will 
not exhaust their treasures and possibilities. 

We have before alluded to the system of beautiful 
lakes easily accessible from Saint Paul, but those in 
the immediate vicinity of Minneapolis are equally 
inviting and attractive, and in the opinion of some, 
still more so. 

Before visiting the lake resorts, however, we have 
a word to say about the Falls of Minnehaha, a spot 
invested with romance by Longfellow's poetical allu- 
sion to them in his deathless song of * ^Hiawatha,'' 
as the ^'^ Laughing Water'" of the Indian. These 
Falls are about six miles in a southeasterly direction 
from the city, and can be reached by railway or the 



THE "TWIN" CITIES. 293 

electric cars. Tlie flow reaches them through a 
silvery stream which issues from several lakes on 
the western and southwestern sides of the city^ 
and that of the large and beautiful Minnetonka^ the 
current itself, having passed the Falls, winding its 
way to the Father of Waters. The height of the 
cataract is about fifty feet, and tlie '^Laughing 
Water " plunges over a semicircular ledge of rock, 
while a cloud of spray ascends from the basin beneath, 
and together they produce an extremely pleasing 
picture. 

Lakes Harriet and Calhoun, whose proximity to 
the city has rendered them, perhaps, less select than 
others at a somewhat greater distance, are, neverthe- 
less, highly attractive as resorts, and multitudes of 
tired citizens flock to them during the summer 
months for relaxation and pleasure. Lake Calhoun, 
the nearest, is not much occupied by "campers," 
probably owing to its want of seclusion. Many 
summer guests take rooms at the Lyndale Hotel on 
the margin of the lake, and find health and recrea- 
tion at this pleasant retreat so conveniently accessible 
from the city. 

Lake Harriet, about a mile beyond Lake Calhoun, 
is also very attractive. A large number of pretty 
cottages surround it, and quite a number of well- 
appointed tents, made habitable and comiortable by 
their tenants for the season. Fishing in this lake is 
invariably productive of excellent results. 

The surrounding scenery is picturesque and beauti- 
ful, the air pure and dry, and the summer heat 
rarely exceeds 75'^. Pleasure-boats float on the sur- 
face of tne clear water, affording agreeable relief 
from weariness to the jaded citizen whose temporary 




(294) 



The ^^twm cities/' 295 

home, with his family, is on the banks of pretty 
Lake Harriet. 

Lake Minnetonka, in point of extent, far exceeds, 
and in beauty of environment is unapproached by, 
the smaller lakes above named. This is the favorite 
retreat of well-to-do citizens of the ''Twin Cities'' 
and tourists in search of the beautiful. It is only 
fifteen miles southwest of Minneapolis. The length 
of the lake is eighteen miles by five in width. 
The virgin forest surrounding it lends enchantment 
to the scene, and shade and repose are found by the 
weary tourist or transient visitor on the greensward 
beneath the foliage. Small villages *have sprung up 
on the banks of the lake, with artistic summer cot- 
tages, villas, and handsome hotels in their near 
neighborhood. The woods and more sequestered 
portions of Minnetonka abound with pheasants, 
woodcock, rabbits, and squirrels. The village of 
Excelsior, on the south shore of the lake, eighteen 
miles from the city, was incorporated in 1879, and 
has a haven for the large and elegant steamboats that 
ply on its waters. Wayzata rests on the opposite 
shore, and is fifteen miles distant from Minneapolis. 
Many pretty cottages cluster around these lake vil- 
lages, and several fine yachts are owned by the 
visitors — residents of Minneapolis and of neighboring 
cities. Camp life is enjoyed by the transients, the 
tents on the sandy shores being not less picturesque 
in appearance than the variegated forms of the 
cottages — several of which are costly structures. 
Strangers from outside the city, and from a distance, 
are in most cases quartered at the hotels and hostelries 
overlooking the beautiful lake. Outdoor life at 
Minnetonka can be indulged in and enjoyed with the 



296 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

most beneficial hygienic effects, and visitors from all 
parts of the country, with impaired vitality, come 
during the summer months to seek and find the boon 
of restored energies. 




CHAPTER VI. 

PREPAKATION FOR SECON^D EXPEDITION^. 

EARLY a month was spent in Minne- 
apolis, occupied chiefly in correspond- 
ence with those whom I desired to 
form my party, and in such other 
preparation as was deemed necessary 
to place the expedition on a practical 
footing. 

Preferring the companionship and 
co-operation of those who were naturally interested in 
the geographical problem which I had undertaken to 
solve, invitations were extended to many eminent 
geographers and scientists throughout the country, 
especially to those who had doubts as to the propriety 
of accepting the lake beyond Itasca as the True 
Source of the Mississippi. This correspondence led 
to the acceptance of several who were invited, while 
some others, for reasons stated in their replies, were 
not then in a position to leave for so long a period 
their business and professional duties. 

It was the opinion of a few cavilers that our expedi- 
tion would not include any who were not thoroughly 
committed to my views on the question of the Ulti- 
mate Source of the Great River. This supposition, 
however, was without the slightest foundation, and 
in order to disabuse the mind of the reader at once 
of the impression that I could have been in any sense 
partial to advocates of my claim, I herewith append 

(297) 



298 DISCOVERY OF THE TUtJE SOURCE. 

the names of those who were solicited to accompany 
me to the Itascan Basin, many of whom are ajnong 
onr leading geographers, map and educational pub- 
lishers, who, I felt, were likely to be more or less 
interested in the objects of the proposed explorations. 
I may here add that I especially desired to make it 
clear to my critics that I courted the fullest investi- 
gatiou , and determined that no pains or expense shoukl 
be spared to insure the attainment of this piir230se. 

The following is a list of those who were invited to 
form my Second Expedition, or send representatives: 
Pearce Giles, Camden, New Jersey, journalist; Gen- 
eral E. W. Whitaker, Washington, late chief of staff 
to Generals Custer, Kilpatrick, and Sheridan; Rev. 
John Calvin Crane, Worcester, Massachusetts; Win- 
field Scott Shure, York, Pennsylvania, artist and 
journalist; Ered J. Trost, Toledo, Ohio, photographer; 
Rev. George A. Peltz, D. D., LL. D., Philadelphia; 
George E. Cram, Chicago, map and atlas publisher; 
Rand, MclSTally and Company, Chicago; Mathews, 
Northrup and Company, Buffalo; E. H. Butler and 
Company, Philadelphia; Dr. Jacques W. Redway, 
New York, editor, Geogra2)liical Magazi7ie; W. H. 
Gamble, Philadelphia, geographer; D. S. Knowlton, 
editor, Boston Times; George Thompson, editor. 
Saint Paul Dispatch; Alfred James Murphy, secre- 
tary, Michigan State Senate; J. E. Calkins, city 
editor. Democrat- Gazette, Davenport, Iowa; N. D. 
H. Clark, superintendent. Station C, New York post 
office; Hon. D. Sinclair, postmaster; editor, Wi- 
nona Republican, Minnesota; Captain A. N. Husted, 
professor of mathematics. State Normal College, Al- 
bany, New York; R. G. Thwaites, secretary, Wisconsin 
Historical Society, Madison; Dr. A. Munsell, editor. 



PHEPAHATlOiT FOR SECOND EXPEDITION-, ^99 

Trade Journal, Dubuque, Iowa; J. L. Smith, map 
publisher, Philadelphia; Dr. Charles E. Harrison, 
secretary. Academy of Natural Sciences, Davenport, 
Iowa; Prof. H. H. Rassweiler, geographer, Chicago; 
William M. Bradley, map publisher, Philadelphia; 
Charles H. Ames, of the firm of D. C. Heath and 
Company, educational publishers, Boston; George H. 
Adams, map publisher. New York; Charles L. Davis, 
editor, Argus, Eed Wing, Minnesota; George H. 
Benedict, map publisher, Chicago; Charles Lubrecht, 
map publisher. New York; Prof. H. D. Densmore, 
Beloit College, Wisconsin; Prof. W. H. Pratt, Dav- 
enport Academy of Natural Sciences, Iowa; C. B. 
Palmer, attorney at law. Saint Paul, Minnesota; 
Gaylord Watson, map publisher. New York; Albert 
W. Whitney, botanist, Beloit College, Wisconsin; 
Hon. W. H. H. Johnston, Saint Paul; Dr. George 
Crocker, Minneapolis; A. H. Hubbard, publisher, 
Philadelphia; Hon. Samuel Adams, member of the 
Minnesota Historical Society, Monticello, Minnesota; 
Hon. L. A. Evans, Saint Cloud, Minnesota. 

In addition to the foregoing, several colleges and 
universities were also invited to send representatives; 
among these were Oberlin College, Ohio; Cornell 
University, Ithaca, New York; Beloit College, Wis- 
consin, and the University of Michigan. Of those 
who responded to my invitation the following, and 
several others who joined us at Park Eapids, were 
duly enrolled as members of the expedition: Pearce 
Giles, Rev. John C. Crane, Winfield Scott Shure, 
Dr. A. Munsell, Fred J. Trost, Daniel S. Knowlton, 
Dr. Charles E. Harrison, Albert W. Whitney. 

As some zealous critics have seen fit to question 
the qualifications of the gentlemen who composed my 



300 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

former party, it has been suggested that it might 
not be inappropriate to introduce with brief reference 
the companions of my second journey to the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi. I therefore conclude to 
present a short sketch of each, which is done with 
the full conviction that several are worthy of more 
extended mention than can consistently be accorded 
them within the limits of this volume. 

The oldest in years and the first to avail himself 
of my invitation was Pearce Giles, formerly of London, 
England, now of Camden, New Jersey. Mr. Giles, 
who had just passed his seventy-fifth year, came to 
America over twenty years ago. His father was an 
officer in the British navy, and himself a graduate 
of the Koyal Naval College, Greenwich, near London. 
He was thirty years in the Home Department of the 
English Government, and retired with a handsome 
pension in 1871. He has traveled extensively in 
Europe, Asia, Africa, and America, and the record of 
his observations in the various countries he has 
visited constitutes a most interesting chapter in a 
long and eventful life. Although not an active 
member of my expedition of 1881, Mr. Giles accom- 
panied me to the Upper Mississippi, assisted in the 
organization of the party, and was indirectly identi- 
fied with us throughout. 

Eev. John Calvin Crane of Worcester, Massachu- 
setts, is a native of Grafton in that State, and was 
born October sixteenth, 1837. He graduated at the 
Lancaster Academy at the age of sixteen, and soon 
after was recognized as a special correspondent of the 
Boston Post. Mr. Crane was among the pioneers of 
Minnesota, having been a resident of the State as 
early as 1858. A year or two later he returned to 



PREPARATION" FOR SECOI^D EXPEDITION. 301 

the^ ^^Bay State/' and became a contributor to the 
Worcester Gazette^ and several other New England 
publications. He is a member of the Worcester 
Antiquarian Society; a resident member of the New 
England Historical and Genealogical Society, and a 
member and correspondent of the historical societies 
of Cheshire and Lancashire, England. From boy- 
hood, Mr. Crane has been deeply interested in every- 
thing relating to the Mississippi and its True Source, 
and joined me as a correspondent of the Boston 
Herald. 

Winfield Scott Shure is a native of Maryland, but 
has been for several years past a resident of York, 
Pennsylvania. Mr. Shure is a young man of con- 
siderable promise as an artist and journalist. He 
joined me as the representative of the York Daily 
Age and other papers, and rendered much valuable 
assistance in the organization and equipment of 
our expedition. 

Dr. A. Munsell of Dubuque, Iowa, is a native of 
Kentucky, a man of mature years, the editor and 
proprietor of the Dubuque Trade Jouriial, and a 
gentleman of comprehensive literary attainments. 
Residing on the banks of the mighty river, he has 
been for many years greatly interested in the contro- 
versy relating to its Headwaters, and the columns 
of his paper have ever been open to all who were dis- 
posed to discuss the question of the Fountain-head. 

Fred J. Trost of Toledo, Ohio, the photographer 
of the expedition, was born at Volknitz, Pomerania, 
Prussia, March sixteenth, 1852. He came to this 
country with his parents in 1854, and at the age of 
sixteen began the study of photography, which has 
since been his occupation. Mr. Trost has been con- 



303 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

nected with some of the best estciblishments of the 
country, and for many years has been a member of 
the American Photographers' Association. His gal- 
lery at Toledo ranks among the first establishments 
of its kind in Ohio. 

Daniel S. Knowlton, editor and proprietor of the 
Boston Times, was born in Biddeford, Maine. Com- 
pleting a preparatory course in the scliools of his 
native State, he entered Yale College at the age of 
eighteen, from which he graduated four years later 
with the highest honors of his class. Mr. Knowlton 
is a young man of advanced attainments in most 
branches of learning, and his long journey from 
Boston to Minnesota sufficiently attests his interest 
in the geographical question which led him to set 
aside important business engagements in order that 
he might join us in our investigations. 

Dr. Charles E. Harrison, formerly president and 
now librarian of the Davenport Academy of Natural 
Sciences, is a native of Kentucky, but has been for 
many years a citizen of loAva. His connection with 
the Academy at Davenport brought him to my 
notice, and I found him an enthusiast upon every 
topic relating to the natural history of the Valley of 
the Mississippi. 

Albert W. Whitney of Beloit, Wisconsin, is a 
graduate of Beloit College, in which his father, 
H. N. Whitney, is professor of English Literature. 
Although the youngest in years, Mr. Whitney pos- 
sesses many excellent qualifications as an explorer, 
and came highly indorsed by the college faculty as a 
botanist and arborologist. 

My daughter Alice, who had just graduated from 
the Saint Agnes School at Albany, New York, 







MEMBERS OF SECOND EXPEDITION, 
(303) 



304 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

pleaded very earnestly to be allowed to accompany 
me. I hesitated for some time, but at length yielded, 
on her assurance that she was confident she could 
endure the rigors of such a journey. She was 
anxious to stand at the head of the Father of 
Waters, and, being a very fair artist in water colors, 
I felt that her talent might prove of some utility to 
the objects of the expedition. 

Although it was the original intention to complete 
our organization at Minneapolis, I soon ascertained 
that from an economic point of view it would be to 
our advantage to secure surveyors, guides, and other 
assistants in Northern Minnesota; hence only a portion 
of those who accompanied me were brought together 
before entering uj)on our journey. 

The route decided upon was by way of the Northern 
Pacific Kailway to Wadena, and thence by a branch 
of the Great Northern to Park Rapids; the latter road 
having been completed but a few days before our 
start from Minneapolis. In my journey across 
Northern Minnesota, in 1881, the Leech Lake route 
was preferred for the reason that the region between 
that point and the Source of the river had not been 
previously traversed, and for the further reason that 
we could, at that time, reach our destination more 
readily by canoe and portage through that section of 
Minnesota than by any other. Then, too, the facili- 
ties now presented by rail and wagon for the trans- 
portation of necessary supplies, via Park Rajoids, 
were an important consideration, in view of the large 
party I had brought together, and rendered that 
route by far the most practicable. 

All arrangements having been completed, we 
assembled at my residence, on Harmon Place, Monday 



PREPARATION^ FOR SECOND EXPEDITIOi^T. 305 

morning, August seventeenth, where we discussed 
briefly the objects of our expedition. I took occa- 
sion at this time to say that our party was the largest 
ever organized for purposes of investigation at the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi, and sought to impress 
upon the minds of all present that it was my earnest 
wish that their examination of that region should be 
most thorough and complete. I especially recom- 
mended that they should determine, by careful 
measurement, the relative length and importance of 
all streams falling into Itasca and the beautiful lake 
lying immediately to the south of it, in order that 
they might be prepared on their return to submit a 
clear and conclusive verdict as to the True Source of 
the Great Eiver. 

My re-appearance in Minnesota, with the intention 
of making further explorations, led the press of the 
country to comment more or less freely upon the 
probable outcome of my proposed expedition. These 
expressions of public opinion may be deemed worthy 
of some consideration, inasmuch as they discuss 
quite fully the question at issue, and set forth 
very clearly the results of former investigations; 
they show, also, something of the character of the 
opposition which I have had to contend with during 
the past ten years. In view therefore of all that 
has been said and written on the subject, for and 
against, it will perhaps be thought consistent with 
the purpose of this volume to invite attention to a 
few quotations from articles which were from time 
to time brought under my notice. 

The Dispatch, a leading journal of Saint Paul, 
has evinced considerable interest in the location of 
the Source of the Mississippi, and since the date of 

20 



306 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

its discovery in 1881 has, in the discussion of my 
claim, yielded it a fair, temperate, and disinterested 
support. Under date, July twenty-third, 1891, the 
Dispatch had the following editorial: 

"The arrival in Saint Paul of Captain Glazier has revived 
interest in a subject which, three or four years ago, was a 
topic of world wide discussion. His claim to have discovered, 
in 1881, the True Source of the Mississippi, while accepted by 
many, was denied by some, and doubts were thrown upon 
the accuracy of his conclusions. Even yet there are those 
who will not admit that Lake Glazier is the Source of the 
Father of Waters. Professor Alton of Minneapolis has 
recently expressed himself on this question, disputing Captain 
Glazier's claim, but offering no satisfactory solution of the 
problem. 

" From the discovery of Lake Itasca by Schoolcraft in 1832, 
down to the year 1881, very little was attempted in the way of 
exploration at the Headwaters of the Mississippi. In the latter 
year. Captain Glazier organized and assumed the entire 
expense of an expedition which had for its object a thorough 
investigation of the Itascan Basin. The thought had long 
been in his mind that if Pike, Cass, and Beltrami had been in 
error as to the Source, Schoolcraft also, might have been mis- 
taken in his conclusions as to Lake Itasca. 

"On the return of his first expedition, Captain Glazier 
announced that a lake above and beyond Itasca was the 
Primal Reservoir; asserted that it had not been so recognized 
prior to 1881 ; and claimed that his party was the first to cor- 
rectly locate its feeders and establish its true relation to the 
Mississippi. From the position then taken. Glazier has never 
retreated, and to-day, notwithstanding the opposition of a few 
unreasoning critics, Lake Glazier is accepted as the True 
Source of the Great River by nine-tenths of the geographers, 
map and educational publishers of this country." 

The Albany Knicherlocher ranks among the first 
journals of the country in the discussion of geo- 
graphical questions, and gave much attention to the 
results of my First Expedition. In one of its articles, 
this paper observed : 

"Many geographical beliefs have in course of time, and in 
the advancement of knowledge, been proven the veriest 
myths. It was for some ages contended that there was no 
world beyond the Pillars of Hercules. It has taken hundreds 
and hundreds of years to arrive at the most simple and primi- 
tive truths. Captain Glazier contends that he has exploded 



PREPARATION FOR SECOI^D EXPEDITIOI^. 307 

the myth that Itasca is the source of the Father of Waters. 
His claim is supported by a volume of expert and disinter- 
ested testimony, and the gentlemen composing his Second 
Expedition will doubtless confirm his announcement of 1881, 
that the origin of the Mississippi is in the lake to the south of 
Itasca, now generally known and accepted by geographers as 
Lake Glazier." 

Since 1881^ the Argus of Red Wing, Minnesota, 
has steadfastly maintained, in common with nearly 
all the leading papers of the State, that the body of 
water which my party located in that year should be 
regarded as the Head of the Mississippi. In its issue 
of July sixteenth, 1891, the Argus spoke as follows: 

" The True Source of the Mississippi River does not appear 
to be a settled question, even though the Minnesota Legislature 
has decided it, so far as it was able by law to do so. Captain 
Glazier claimed the discovery of the real Head of ihe river in 
1881, which was named by his companions Lake Glazier. 
Lake Itasca had for mauy years been considered the source 
and had been so placed on the maps, but the lake discovered 
by Captain Glazier was beyond Itasca and flowed into it 
through a perennial stream. For some reason a few of the 
savants of our Historical Society disputed the Glazier claim, 
and appealed to the Legislature for an enactment to prevent 
its recognition. Notwithstanding this opposition, however, 
our leading geographers and map publishers, as well as most 
of the encyclopedias, recognize the fact that Glazier was the 
real discoverer of the lake now called after him. 

"Captain Glazier is about to organize another expedition to 
the Headwaters of the Mississippi, which is expected to leave 
Saint Paul this month. His chief object in making a second 
visit is to obtain sketches and photographs of scenery at the 
source of the river, and to give some attention to the 
natural history of the surrounding country, as well as to 
secure additional information concerning the feeders of Lake 
Glazier. An artist, photographer, surveyor, and several gen- 
tlemen of scientific attainments will be members of the expe- 
dition. These gentlemen, it is presumed, will be fully quali- 
fied to pass final judgment upon the claim of Captain 
Glazier to have definitely located, in 1881, the True Source of 
the Mississippi." 

The Trade Journal of Dubuque, Iowa, edited by 
Dr. A. Munsell of that city, has been for several 
years an ardent participant in all discussions concern- 



308 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

ing the Head of the Great Eiver. In its July issue 

of 1891 the Journal, in referring to the subject^ said: 

" Since the discovery and announcement of Lake Glazier as 
the Source of the Mississippi, it has been very generally recog- 
nized by the geographical world and by writers in the later 
encyclopedias. There are those, however, who have denied 
the newly asserted fact, and have even taken some pains to 
contradict and argue against the propriety of according it 
recognition. It is often difficult to sympathize with a new 
truth which dispels the illusion of a lifetime, and the views, 
customs, and complacency ingrained by education and habit. 
So, when called upon to surrender the honor that has for 
more than a half century clung to the Itasca of Schoolcraft, 
and bid good-by to the associations that have been pleasantly 
connected with the charming Indian word, it is perhaps little 
wonder that prejudice and conservatism are reluctant. But 
truth and duty have no heed save for the verities of the actual, 
and the modern day is a time when the white light of science 
and fact is allowed to fall safely and freely on that which is in 
the realm of reality." 

Foremost among the leading neAvspai^ers of New 

England^ the Boston Herald exhibited its usual 

enterprise in sending a special correspondent to join 

us in Minnesota. Commenting on my proposed visit 

to the Headwaters, the Herald said: 

* * * "Captain Glazier believed that Schoolcraft was at fault 
in locating the source of the Mississippi in Lake Itasca, and 
during the summer of 1881 began a thorough personal investi- 
gation of the subject. Standing on the shore of the beautiful 
heart-shaped lake to the south of Itasca — the Pokegama of the 
Chippewas — he announced to the geographical world the fact 
that the True Head of the Father of Waters was there to be 
found. A geographical error had existed for nearly half a 
century and it was hard to change the order of things. Would- 
be explorers, and geographers unheard of before, sprang up in 
a night and sought in some way to immortalize their names in 
connection therewith. Some denied the truth of Captain 
Glazier's statements; but when it was established that the 
position he had taken was impregnable, they objected to 
having his name applied to the lake. It was in opposition to 
the wishes of Glazier that his name was given, but his wdiite 
and Indian companions persisted and it was finally adopted. 
So firm is Captain Glazier in the conviction that his position is 
unassailable that he will lead the largest party of gentlemen 
to the Headwaters of the Mississippi that has ever visited that 
region." 



PREPAEATIOI^ POR SECOND EXPEDITIOI^. 309 

The Times of Philadelphia has devoted much 
space and attention to the Mississippi and its 
Source, and while its columns have been open to 
both sides of the controversy, its editorial utterances 
have been clearly in support of the lake beyond 
Itasca as the Primal Reservoir. In its issue of July 
twelfth, 1891, the Times thus referred to the matter: 

"In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier organized, equipped, and 
led a party tbrongli Northern Minnesota for the purpose of 
determining, if possible, the exact location of the Source of 
the Mississippi, Under the guidance of a Chippewa Indian, 
named Chenowagesic, he located, on the twenty-second of 
July of that year, a beautiful body of water to the south of 
Lake Itasca, having an average depth of forty-tive feet, a cir- 
cumference of between five and six miles, and an area of 255 
acres. 

"This lake was known to the Indians as Pokegama, meaning 
' the place where the w^aters gather.' It has for its feeders 
three small creeks which have their origin in springs at the 
foot of sand hills from two to three miles distant. After con- 
sultation, the members of the expedition unanimously voted 
that this body of water be named Lake Glazier, after the man 
who had organized the expedition and led them, at his own 
expense, to its shores. Since that time a few critics have si'cn 
fit to question, doubt, and tinally declare that the Fountain- 
head of the river is in Lake Itasca; that there was no such 
lake as Captain Glazier described; or if there was, it was of 
little consequence. And again, if such a sheet of water did 
exist, he was not the tirst white man to see it. Just as if 
Schoolcraft was the first white man who saw Lake Itasca, It 
should not be a question of 'who tirst saw it,' but 'who first 
discovered its relation to the Mississippi.' 

"In view of the various doubts that have been raised, and for 
the purpose of satisfying scientific, educational, and all other 
parties who take any interest in the correction of error and 
the advancement of truth, Captain Glazier is now fitting out 
a Second Expedition. This party will be composed of natu- 
ralists, surveyors, artists, photographers, correspondents of 
the press, and others who wish to look upon the Source of our 
Great Central River, The country will be carefully examined, 
prominent views and scenes photographed, and levels and 
measurements taken. The botanist and geologist will report 
on the flora and formation of that region. It is confidently 
expected that the Source of the Mississippi will be established 
without further cavil or dispute, and that Captain Glazier 
will give a faithful description and photographic view of that 
hitherto practically unknown section of Minnesota which 



310 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

enjoys the distinction of embracing the Headwaters of the 
greatest river of North America." 

The press of Minnesota, with but two or three 
unimportant exceptions, favored a further explora- 
tion, and said much to encourage my companions in 
the prosecution of their self-imposed task. The 
Globe of Saint Paul took an active interest in every- 
thing pertaining to the controversy. The subjoined 
article appeared in its columns under date of August 
sixteenth, 1891: 

" On to-morrow, August seventeenth, Captain Glazier will 
start from Minneapolis with his Second Expedition to the 
Source of the Mississippi. The explorer goes with the deter- 
mination of substantiating his claim of 1881, that he discov- 
ered, in a body of water beyond Itasca — since linown as Lake 
Glazier — the True Source of the Fatlier of Waters. Among 
those who will accompany him in his later visit is Rev. J. C. 
Crane of Worcester, Massachusetts, who is now in Saint Paul. 
Speaking of the expedition, he said: 

"'The attention of a large portion of the people of this 
country is at present directed to a wild and unsettled region 
of Minnesota. The particular locality referred to is that lying 
about the Source of what is, in many respects, the greatest 
river in the world. The complete history of this wonderful 
waterway, if written, would fill volumes. The chief reason 
for the interest now taken, arises from investigations made at 
the Headwaters of the river in 1881. In July of that year. 
Captain Willard Glazier led a party by a new and untried 
route to a lake which he claimed as the Ultimate Source of the 
Mississippi. 

" ' From 1832 to 1881, the statements of Schoolcraft with 
regard to the Fountain-head of the mighty stream were 
unquestioned. The announcement by Glazier that there was 
a beautiful lake above and beyond Itasca was a great surprise 
to the geographical world, and as one somewhat versed in the 
geography and history of the country, I became interested in 
his claim to have definitely located the Origin of the Great 
River. I had been an early pioneer in Minnesota— had 
journeyed days and nights on the pure waters of the Upper 
Mississippi. As a hunter I had sailed its tributaries and 
camped along their shores. What more natural than that I, 
although no longer a resident of the State, should take an 
interest in the Source of her ideal river? I began anew the study 
of the Mississippi and its place of beginning. I investigated 
the claim of Captain Glazier and read its numerous indorse- 



PREPARATIOK FOR SECOKD EXPEDITION". 311 



ments. I digested also the pamphlet of General Baker, and 
heard and read of the progress of Mr. Brower in that locality, 
and in fact made a thorough study of all the reports on the 
question of the True Source since Glazier announced his dis- 
covery in 1881. One thing became very evident to my mind, 
and that was that the latter gentleman had never receded in 
any measure from the position first taken, which was that the 
Fountain-head was in a lake to the south of Itasca, known to 
the Indians as Pokegama. After a long and careful study of 
the ques ion, and heariDg all the pros and cons, I could not 
help tiie belief that the claim put forth by Captain Glazier 
was based upon careful investigation and honest conviction. 
I had never seen the lake of Schoolcraft, neither had I looked 
upon the Pokegama of the Chippewas, but I had seen the flow- 
ing stream as it fell in beauty over the Falls of Saint Anthony, 
and had noted its onward rush to the Gulf, three thousand 
miles away. I had observed with what tenacity Glazier clung 
to his announcement of 1881. The thought came to me, this 
man is honest in his premises, and the more I studied the sub- 
ject, the more I became satisfied that Lake Glazier answered 
all the requirements of geographers. Upon investigation, I 
found many who agreed with me in this belief. The written 
testimony of eminent educators, map publishers, and com- 
pilers of encyclopedias was examined with care. 

" ' Early in the present 5'ear, rumors of another expedition 
to be made by Captain Glazier reached my ear. Later an 
opportunity was presented me to become a member of the 
party of gentlemen who are to leave Minneapolis to-mor- 
row to ascertain for themselves on what ground Willard 
Glazier bases his claim to have definitely located, in 1881, 
the True Source of the Mississippi River. So strong is the 
captain in his convictions and statements then made, that he 
has called about him the largest and most influential body of 
men that has ever been brought together for this purpose. 
As an humble member of that expedition, I go with the honest 
purpose of seeing for myself the foundation upon which I 
have built my belief. As a historian of some repute in the 
' Old Bay State,' it would ill become me to give my sanction to 
a claim which upon investigation should fail to uphold opin- 
ions previously expressed.'" 



Henry E. Cobb, editor of the Hubbard County 
Enterprise of Park Eapids, Minnesota, e^^joys the 
distinction of having among his subscribers several 
pioneers whose claim-cabins are within a few miles 
of the Source of the Mississij^pi. In referring to my 
First and Second expeditions, Mr. Cobb said in his 
paper: 



312 DISCOVERY OP THE TRUE SOURCE. 

" On the twenty-second day of July, 1881 — ten years ago this 
summer — Captam Glazier passed through Lake Itasca into a 
lake beyond, known to the Indians as Po-keg-a-ma. In this 
body of water he believed he had found the True Source of the 
Mississippi, which was christened Lake Glazier by his com- 
panions. Despite the criticisms of subsequent expeditions 
Captain Glazier still holds to his convictions, and the present 
party go for the purpose of adding their evidence on this much 
discussed question. Whatever their decision as to the Cap- 
tain's claim, the latter may be credited with having gathered 
together, from all parts of the Union, a body of men whose 
testimony will be of weight." 

From the time that Lake Itasca was first called iu 
question, the religions press of Minnesota manifested, 
much interest in the controversy. Of these publica- 
tions, the Northwestern Presbyterian of Minneapolis, 
gave considerable attention to the subject. Referring 
to it at some length, this journal said in clear and 
unmistakable terms: 

"All who live in the valley of America's greatest river will be 
especially interested in knowing something of its Source, its 
course, and the cities that line its banks. Since De Soto first 
discovered the Father of Waters in 1541, many eminent 
explorers have been associated with its history. Marquette, 
Joliet, La Salle, Hennepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix, Carver, 
Pike, Cass, and Beltrami preceded Schoolcraft. The last 
named discovered a lake which he supposed to be the Source, 
but the Indians and missionaries said there was a lake beyond. 
A learned few believed them. It remained for some explorer 
to make further investigation and publish the truth more 
widely to the world. This was done by Captain Glazier in 
1881, who visited the lake, explored its shores, and found it 
to be wider and deeper than Itasca." 

The following quotation from an article which 
appeared in the Geogra])liical News, is from the pen 
of its publisher, George F. Cram, a leading geo- 
graphical authority of Chicago, who, I should con- 
clude from his interesting and exhaustive treatment 
of the subject, must have made a thorough study of 
everything relating to the question of the Origin of 
the Great River; 

"In 1832, Henry Rovve Schoolcraft traced the upper courses 



PREPARATION^ FOR SECOND EXPEDITION. 313 

of the Mississippi and believed lie had found its Source in 
Lake Itasca, and for nearly fifty years it was so shown on our 
maps and in our geographies, and so taught in our schools. 
In 1881, however, Willard Glazier made further explorations, 
and discovered that Itasca was connected with another lake by 
a permanently flowing stream which enters the southeast 
side of the southwest arm of the former. Captain Glazier's 
companions named this body of water Lake Glazier, and 
announced it as the Primal Reservoir of the river. Unwilling 
to abandon the theories of the earlier explorers, certain parties 
strongly antagoaized the Glazier claim, and exerted so great 
an influence with the Historical Society of Minnesota that 
that body rejected his discovery altogether and refused to 
admit the source to be beyond Itasca. A long newspaper war 
followed, sufliciently acrimonious on both sides. Geographers 
are now divided on the question, so that scholars and students 
who use the geographies of one publisher will be taught that 
the Source of the Mississippi is Lake Itasca, while those who 
use the publications of another will learn that it is Lake 
Glazier. Just who is benefited by this condition of things it 
is somewhat ditflcult to ascertain. 

" The actual facts in the case are these: That all the investi- 
ga' ions made since the Glazier discovery was first disputed, 
tend to show very conclusively that the True Source of the 
river is in the lake immediately to the south of Itasca, known 
to the Indians as Po-keg-a-ma; that Captain Glazier's party 
christened this sheet of water Lake Glazier; that Glazier was 
the first who discovered and proclaimed the Source to be in 
that lake. This being the case, it seems but just that the honor 
of the discovery should no longer be withheld from him. At 
all events, our school geographies should teach the truth as to 
where the Source really is." 

Those who have glanced over the preceding edi- 
torial comments will probably have found some evi- 
dence of the interest taken by the general public in 
the question that brought me again to Minnesota. 
They ma}'' also have noted the trend of opinion; and 
if they are candid and in search of truth, I feel con- 
fident they will reach the conclusion that the press 
at least, throughout the country, is not only not 
opposed to, but favorable and strongly corroborative 
of my views. 




(314; 




CHAPTER VII. 

MIK]S"EAPOLIS TO PAKE RAPIDS. 

EAVING Minneapolis at an early hour on 
the morning of August seventeenth, 
we reached Saint Cloud at ten o'clock. 
Here we had dinner, and spent a few 
hours in strolls through the leading 
^ streets of the city. Eesuming our 
journey, we went on to Brainerd in 
the evening, where we remained for two days. It 
was at this point that the equipment of my First 
Expedition was completed. 

Brainerd, sometimes familiarly styled the ^^ City of 
Pines, ^'' is situated in a bend of the Mississippi, on 
the border of an extensive pine forest, at the point 
where the Northern Pacific Railway makes its cross- 
ing. Although but twenty-eight miles south of 
Aitkin, by railway, it is ninety-five miles below that 
city, by the river. The town was originally built 
among the pines, and when I saw it in 1881, it was 
the most picturesque village I had ever looked upon. 
The streets had been cut directly through the virgin 
forest, and only such trees removed as were absolutely 
necessarv to make room for business houses and resi- 
dences. Brainerd is the third town from the Source 
of the Mississippi, and, after Saint Paul and Minne- 
apolis, one of the most advanced above the Falls of 
Saint Anthony. Viewed from the river, which winds 
around its front, a picture of rare beauty is pre= 

(315) 




(316) 



MINKEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS. 317 

sented to the tourist wlio delights in Upper Missis- 
sippi scenery. Without a history, this town leaped 
into existence with a considerable population, mostly 
of New England origin, and at one time seemed des- 
tined to become a city of respectable proportions. Its 
rapid growth for several years was probably due to its 
large and increasing lumber interest, and the location 
at that point of the shops of the Northern Pacific 
Railway, which gave it prominence and prospective 
importance as a center of industry. The removal of 
the shops, a short time since, to Sta]3les seriously inter- 
rupted the development of Brainerd and greatly bene- 
fited the former place; hence, although the Brain- 
erd of to-day possesses a greater population than the 
Brainerd of 1881, it gives less promise for the future. 

One of the attractive features of this little city, 
and a favorite resort during the summer months, 
is Pine Park, situated within the city limits. This 
park is thickly studded with tall gray and Norway 
pines from sixty to a hundred feet in height, which 
give the traveler an excellent idea of the appearance 
of this region before the axe of the settler was heard 
in the unbroken wilderness. 

Among the objects of interest visited here were the 
Sanitarium and the rooms of the Young Men's 
Christian Association; the former of which was built 
by, and is entirely in the hands of, the Northern 
Pacific Ivailway — a wise and, indeed, generous pro- 
vision for the sick and disabled employes of the road. 
The ample quarters of the Y. M. 0. A. are quite up 
to the modern idea, having a library, gymnasium, and 
well-appointed reading-rooms. 

A pleasant incident of our sojourn at this frontier 
town was a call from Miss Lotta Grandelmeyer, a 




(318) 



MINNEAPOLIS TO PARK RAPIDS. 319 

great-granddaughter of William Morrison, the pio- 
neer fur trader, who saw Lake Itasca in 1804, the 
year previous to the visit of Lieutenant Pike to Cass 
Lake. Had the latter met Morrison then, it is 
hardly i^robable that the explorer of 1805 would 
have laid down the Source of the Mississippi in Turtle 
Lake. Since that time, the descendants of William 
Morrison and his brother Allan have been residents 
of Minnesota, and the high esteem in which the fam- 
ily is held was shown many years ago, in bestowing 
the name of Morrison upon one of the largest and 
most-flourishing counties in the State. 

Miss Grandelmeyer is a young lady of intelligence 
and refinement, jiroud of her ancestors, and much 
interested in everything relating to the geography 
and history of Minnesota. The information which 
she furnished us, concerning the Morrisons and other 
early settlers of the northern portions of the State, 
was of especial value to myself and companions. 

Later in the day. Dr. F. A. Seal, Government phy- 
sician at the Leech Lake Indian Agency, paid his 
respects, and talked with us in regard to Indian affairs 
in that region. He has been four years among the 
Chippewas, and his stories of their peculiar manners 
and customs were eagerly listened to by those of our 
party who had never before been so near the domin- 
ions of their red brothers. 

From Dr. Seal I learned the particulars of the 
death and burial of Chenowagesic, the guide of my 
First Expedition, to whom I made frequent reference 
in ^^Down the Great River," and other publications 
relating to the source of the Mississippi. I was 
already aware of his death, which occurred at Leech 
Lake in March, 1891, but knew nothing of its cause. 
or of his funeral and place of burial. 



320 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Dr. Seal explained that a severe cold led to pneu- 
monia, and that he lived but a few days after his 
condition was considered critical. The ceremony 
attending his funeral was strictly in accordance with 
his wishes, and in conformity with usual Chippewa 
practices on such occasions. Since retiring from my 
service in 1881, he had been elevated to the chieftain- 
ship of a tribe, and later had been appointed captain 
of Indian police by the Government agent at Leech 
Lake. Having expressed a desire, during his illness, 
to stand once more at the head of his comjiany, his 
family and friends insisted that his request should be 
respected. Their cabin was on the shore of the lake, 
about five miles from the Agency, and when the Gov- 
ernment wagon arrived for his remains, the entire 
Indian police force of the Leech Lake Eeservation 
was drawn up in line, and the body of Chenowagesic, 
clothed in the uniform of his office, was placed, 
standing, on the right of the line, where it was held 
in position by a relative for some moments; then, 
placing the corpse in a coffin, it was preceded by 
the police, and followed by his sorrowing family 
and friends to the Chippewa village near the Agency, 
where his remains were given a Christian burial. 

While at Brainerd, I had the pleasure of again 
meeting Judge Holland, Dr. Kosser, Captain Seelye, 
George S. Canfield, and several others with whom I 
became acquainted during my descent of the Missis- 
sippi. These gentlemen seemed greatly interested 
in the objects of our expedition, and furnished us 
much valuable information concerning the region 
through which we intended to pass on our way to 
Park Rapids. Captain Seelye and Mr. Canfield, par- 
ticularly, were untiring in their efforts to place at my 




21 



(321) 



322 DISCOVERY OF THE TEUE SOURCE, 

disposal their large experience in Northern Minne= 
Bota. The former is widely known as a veteran 
explorer for pine, and had, since my explorations of 
1881, visited the Headwaters of the Mississippi in 
pursuit of his calling. 

We moved from Brainerd to Wadena on the after- 
noon of August nineteenth, where we found quarters 
for the night at the Merchants^ Hotel and Wadena 
House. On the following morning, the entire party 
was up at daylight, and, after an early breakfast, spent 
an hour in conversation with citizens, and in rambles 
through the place. Mr. Ti'ost photographed a railway 
station, park, and two or three street scenes. 

The birth of Wadena dates from the advent of the 
Northern Pacific Railroad, since which its growth has 
been consistent with the development of the surround- 
ing country. In 1880, the population was but three 
hundred and seven; in 1890, it was between three 
and four thousand. This growing and prosperous 
little town is the caj^ital of Wadena County; is forty- 
seven miles northwest of Brainerd, and was, until the 
comj^letion of the branch road to Park Rapids, the 
nearest railway station to the Source of the Mississippi. 
Situated in the midst of one of the most productive 
wheat-growing sections of Minnesota, and with every 
facility for the receipt and shipment of this staple, 
the prediction of a prosperous future need hardly be 
questioned. 

Leaving Wadena at nine o'clock, we proceeded on 
our journey to Park Rapids by way of the Wadena 
and Park Rapids branch of the Great Northern Rail- 
way. A halt of nearly an hour was made at a half- 
way house known as Menahga, where we had a very 
satisfactory dinner; the conductor favoring the land- 




(323) 



324 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

lord, and ourselves at the same time, by holding 
his train until we could dine in detachments, the 
table and service not being equal to so large a party. 
After dinner the conductor still further delayed his 
train in order to give Mr. Trost an opportunity to 
photograph the Menahga House and its guests. 

Our brief stop at this pioneer establishment was, it 
may perhaps be considered, an event in its history, 
and the worthy host seemed anxious to make the most 
of it. We may also explain that the new railway 
from AVadena to Park Rapids was, at this date, in an 
unfinished condition; there were no stations north of 
Wadena, except at its terminus at Park Eapids. The 
obliging conductor, therefore, consented to accommo- 
date the passengers, of whom our party formed the 
majority, so far as he could do so consistently. 

Continuing our journey from Menahga, we reached 
Park Rapids at three o'clock. Here we were most 
cordially received by a delegation of citizens, and 
escorted to the Central House by Henry R. Cobb, 
postmaster, and editor of the Hubbard County 
Enterprise^ and E. M. Horton, clerk of the County 
Court, who had anticipated our arrival. 

Park Rapids is a typical frontier village, the county 
seat of Hubbard County, and, as previously noted, 
the nearest inhabited point to the Source of the Mis- 
sissippi. It is- situated on Fish-hook River, near a 
beautiful lake of the same name. The region sur- 
rounding the place is familiarly known as the Shell 
Prairies, and the soil is said to be favorable to the 
growth of wheat, corn, oats, and other cereals. The 
first house is stated to have been erected in 1882, the 
year after my first journey across Northern Minne- 
sota. 




(325) 



CHAPTER VIII. 




THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. 

|HREE clays were spent at Park 
Rapids ill organization and equip- 
ment. Here we were opportunely 
reinforced by several gentlemen 
wlio proved a very valuable addi- 
tion to the party, and having 
previously introduced to my readers 
those members of the expedition 
who joined us in Minneapolis, I now give the names 
of the Park Rapids contingent, beginning with Henry 
R. Cobb, to whom allusion has already been made. 
Mr. Cobb is a native of Maine, and although still 
a young man, was a pioneer in Northern Minnesota 
and one of the first settlers at Park Rapids. Through 
his paper, the H^ihhard Coiinty Enterprise, \\^ has 
done much to invite attention to, and encourage the 
development of, this section of the State. 

Hon. C. D. Cutting of Howard County, Iowa, 
was the guest of Mr. Cobb at the time of our arrival, 
and curtailed his visit in order to make one of our 
number. He began life in the ^^Pine Tree State," 
but, like thousands of others, left New England in 
boyhood to seek his fortune in the Great West. An 
ample competency, resulting from earnest toil beyond 
the Mississippi, and his election to the Legislature of 
his adopted State, are sufficient proofs of industry 
and good citizenship. Senator Cutting was accompa- 

(326) 



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(327) 



328 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

nied by his son Frank, a young man of eighteen 
years. 

E. M. Horton of Park Eapids, at present clerk of 
the Hubbard County Court, is a surveyor and civil 
engineer by profession, and was recently in the 
employ of the Northern Pacific Kailway. Mr. Hor- 
ton was introduced by Postmaster Cobb, and highly 
indorsed as a surveyor by many of his fellow-towns- 
men. 

Oliver S. Keay, formerly of Maine, but now a resi- 
dent of Minnesota, was accepted on the recommenda- 
tion of Mr. Horton and other citizens of Park Rapids 
for the position of guide and assistant surveyor. He 
has had large experience as an explorer of pine 
lands in the northern sections of the State, and was 
the only member of our party besides myself who 
had seen the Source of the Mississippi. 

Daniel Adams and his son Grant were employed as 
teamsters, and, although pursuing an humble calling, 
are highly respected as good citizens and neighbors in 
Park Rapids. Louis Delezene was engaged as cook 
and general assistant. 

In the matter of equipment for our explorations, 
we were provided with canoes, tents, blankets, rations, 
guns, ammunition, fishing tackle, surveyor's compass 
and chain, barometer, thermometers, pocket com- 
passes, and a portable photographic apparatus. 

Having ascertained that it was now possible to 
journey on wheels from Park Rapids to within a few 
miles of the Source of the Mississippi, three wagons 
were employed to carry our canoes, camp equipage, 
and rations to the southeastern arm of Lake Itasca; 
these wagons were drawn by horses, with the excep- 
tion of one mule, bearing the euphonious title or 



THROUGH THE WILDERNESS. 329 

nickname of ''Jerry." This long-eared companion 
of one of the horses possessed all the peculiarities of 
his kind, and, as will be seen farther on, frequently 
converted serious iuto amusing and ludicrous situa- 
tions. 

Although we had learned from pioneers that wagon 
conveyance at best would be difficult, and at times 
even hazardous, it was a relief to know that for the 
greater part of the trip, at least, teams could be used 
for the transportation of our luggage. 

Our organization and equipment completed, we 
started from Park Rapids at eight o^clock on Satur- 
day morning, August twenty-second, and soon 
plunged into the interminable primitive forest 
which lies between this frontier town and the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi. The road, which is but 
little more than a trail, winds among the tall pines, 
over huge boulders, across marshes, and up and down 
sand-hills, in descending which it was necessary to 
chain the wagon-wheels, and in their ascent the com- 
bined strength of horses and men was required. 

For the first six miles our route led us across a 
shell prairie to the west of Park Rapids, and then 
over rather indifferent sand roads, through a partly 
cultivated country, and past an occasional log cabin. 
As we moved forward, however, all traces of cultiva- 
tion gradually disappeared, and by noon, after having 
advanced but ten miles, nothing remained to suggest 
the existence of humanity aside from our own party 
and the rugged and slightly travel-worn trail we were 
following. We were confronted on all sides by the 
apparently endless virgin forest, in which gray, Nor- 
way, and jack -pines largely predominated. From 
the hill-tops many of the pines rear their evergreen 




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(330; 



THKOUGtt TSE WlLBERi^ESS. B31 

srests to the enormous height of over a hundred feet, 
while in the marshes and lowlands the tamarack and 
underbrush are seen on every hand. 

We succeeded in reachinsr at noon a stream known 
to frontiersmen of that locality as ^"^ Dinner Creek/^ 
Here, where we found excellent water, we had our 
first meal in the open air. 

The fording of '' Dinner Creek " was the first of 
many novel and exciting experiences in our march 
through the wilderness, and gave us a foretaste of what 
we might reasonably anticipate at intervals during 
the remainder of the journey, for it may be explained 
at once that the region about the Head of the Missis- 
sippi is a series of diluvial sand-ridges and numberless 
lakes, ponds, streams, marshes, and in brief every- 
thing conceivable that could impede and obstruct 
locomotion. 

When we had reached a slight elevation overlook- 
ing the creek, it was evident that the most feasible 
way of crossing the stream would be to ford it in the 
wagons, as the depth of water was sufficient to make 
fording on foot impracticable without the annoyance 
of a severe and unnecessary wetting; we therefore 
mounted the wagons promptly and rode forward. 

On approaching the stream, the mule divided with 
his mate the honor of leading our column, and no 
sooner had the ford begun than ^^ Jerry, ^^ tempted by 
the clear sparkling water, and delighting in its cooling 
effects upon his overheated legs, mule-like, wanted to 
drink; and halt he would, doubtless oblivious of the 
difficulty he was sure to experience in again starting. 
After drinking all he could hold conveniently, he 
raised his head and put up his ears in a knowing man- 
ner as if in contemplation of the steep ascent beyond. 



332 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

When ''^ Jerry '^ received from his driver the word 
''go," he attempted to climb over his companion, 
but failing in this he next tried to push himself bodily 
through his collar, and, although unable to accomplish 
what he undertook, succeeded in landing horse, 
wagon, and freight on the opposite shore, where with 
one wheel in the road, and another against an embank- 
ment, he, with characteristic mischief, made a sudden 
and unexpected disposition of the passengers. 

As '^'Dinner Creek'' was the first stream encount- 
ered, and the first barrier to uninterrupted travel, a 
brief sketch of it may prove of some interest to those 
tourists who incline to follow our footsteps to the Mecca 
of the Upper Mississippi. Rising to the southward 
of the basin which incloses Itasca and Glazier lakes, 
it flows in a southeasterly direction through Becker 
and Hubbard counties, and ultimately falls into the 
Crow Wing River, of which it is an important tribu- 
tary. Its banks, for some distance above and below 
the point where we effected a crossing, are high and 
well-defined, with an average width of about sixty, 
and a depth of from three to four feet, at the time we 
saw it on the twenty-second of August. 

I may add that it was the sentiment of many of 
our party, that this water-course was of sufficient 
importance to receive a more dignified title than 
** Dinner Creek'''; and I therefore suggest that, if 
entirely in accord with the views of the residents of 
that section of Minnesota, it be named Morrison River 
in honor of Allan and William Morrison, who were 
among the first white men to penetrate the wilds, and 
leave their foot-prints on the hills and in the valleys 
of the ^^ North Star State." 

Dinner over, and " Jerry" having been coaxed into 



THEOUGH THE WILDERNESS. 333 

the '^ notion/" we again moved forward. Obstacles to 
progress were found to be more numerous and diffi- 
cult as we advanced; the trail being hardly discern- 
ible at many points, while the hills were steeper and 
more frequent. The wagons were pulled and pushed 
up one hill after another; then, when they were at the 
summit, some of our number moved in front of the 
teams with long sticks, as they descended, beating 
the animals in their faces, in order to assist the driv- 
ers in forcing them to hold back; other members of 
the party took position behind and on the sides of the 
wagons, exerting all the muscle they could command, 
in their efforts to keep canoes and luggage from being 
precipitated into the valley below. 

Thoroughly exhausted by the fatigues of the day, 
we halted at six o'clock on the crest of a stony-capped 
ridge, about twenty miles northwest of Park Rapids. 
Here we pitched tents, and built a camp-fire, naming 
the encampment '^Munsell," after a senior member 
of the expedition. Camp Munsell overlooked an 
apparently fine body of water, but the discovery was 
soon made that its appearance was misleading, and 
what had tempted us to go into camp early in the 
evening proved to be only a dead lake, the water of 
which was unfit for use by either man or beast. 

The water near the margin of this lake was stag- 
nant, and filled with dead and decaying vegetable 
matter. The horses were led down to the shore, but 
seemed disgusted, and would not drink. ^^ Jerry" 
alone appeared satisfied, and in consideration of his 
approval of what seemed obnoxious to all others, we 
at once named it Mule Lake. 

Being unable to use, in a raw state, the water refused 
by the horses, we boiled it, and made a kettle of 



334 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

rather insipid coffee, which in a measure appeased 
thirst, and afforded us slight refreshment. 

A careful exploration of the region adjacent to 
Camp Munsell made it clear that living water could 
not be found in that immediate vicinity; and had we 
not already made considerable preparation for the 
night, we should have moved forward in the hope of 
finding a more desirable location. 

All were astir at sunrise on the following morning, 
and had breakfast soon after. It being Sunday, I 
had originally intended to remain in camp the entire 
day, and resume march on the morning of the twenty- 
fourth; but owing to the want of good water, all 
voted to strike tents, and move on without delay. 

The event of this day's tramp was the shooting of 
a large black bear, early in the forenoon, by Whitney 
and Delezene, who, at the time of catching their first 
glimpse of bruin, were about a hundred yards in 
advance of the column. Being armed with rifles, 
both fired at the same instant, but their shots were 
not immediately fatal, and the bear made good his 
escape, leaving a trail of blood behind to indicate his 
line of retreat. Several members of the party joined 
Whitney and Delezene in pursuit of the wounded 
animal; but wishing to establish our evening encamp- 
i^ent on Schoolcraft Island, there was no time to lose, 
and I therefore recalled the hunters and pushed on 
toward Lake Itasca. 

On returning from the hunt, we were not a little 
amused by an incident doubtless quite in keeping 
with the reportorial profession. Arriving upon the 
ground from which the shots had been fired but a few 
moments before, the correspondent of the Boston 
Herald seated himself on a log, deliberately pulled 



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(335) 



336 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

his note-book and pencil from a side-pocket, and pro- 
ceeded to '^ interview''^ his companions; inquired the 
time bruin was first seen, his size and appearance, 
the precise moment that fire was opened on him, and 
the direction he had taken after being wounded; 
then, putting his note-book back in his pocket, he 
arose with becoming dignity, and wiping the perspi- 
ration from his brow, threw his rifie over his shoul- 
der, and, apparently '^ ready for action," said, '^^Gen- 
tlemen, my article for the Herald is ready; now bring 
on your bear! " It occurred to us that if bears could 
select their hunters, there would be a very large 
premium on reporters and correspondents of leading 
dailies, when fully provided with note-books, sketch- 
books, and all other paraphernalia known to knights 
of the quill; for, while the representative of the news- 
paper was perfecting his notes, bruin could readily 
betake himself to safer and more peaceful quarters 
beyond the reach of the enemy. 

Our course was still northwesterly, and the interest 
in the region traversed increased as we approached 
the Height of Land, usually described as the water- 
shed, and which separates the great river systems of 
North America. 

The prevailing growth observed at this stage of our 
journey was thick bramble, pine, spruce, white cedar, 
and tamarack. The hills were found to be higher 
and more rugged as we advanced, while we experi- 
enced much difficulty in penetrating the dense under- 
growth of the valleys. The trail often plunged into 
marshy and matted thickets, which required all the 
strength we could muster to press through; then rose 
to an elevation covered with cedar or jack-pines, and 
anon dropped into a swamp, strewn with fallen trees 



THROUGH THE WILDEKNESS. 337 

covered with moss, from which it again led to the 
summit of a sand-hill, steeper and higher than the one 
that preceded it; and so on, ad infinitum, until the goal 
of the expedition was reached. 

Notwithstanding some of the disagreeable features 
enumerated, that portion of Minnesota lying at, and 
in the immediate vicinity of, the Headwaters is, and 
will always be, a region of much interest to the stu- 
dent and tourist who has the hardihood to climb the 
hills and wade through the marshes that conceal the 
mysterious Fount of the Great River. 

It may be further observed that this particular sec- 
tion of Minnesota is likely to remain in a wild state 
for many years to come, as the soil is hardly worth 
tilling and the timber at present inaccessible. The 
surface is cut up by glacial ridges which leave many 
depressions, of from a few hundred feet to many miles 
in extent, mostly without outlet. The basins thus 
formed by these elevations and depressions hold the 
myriad lakes for which this region is celebrated. 

When within a short distance of Lake Itasca, the 
guide drew my attention to the claim cabin of an 
enterprising pioneer, who had, a year or two previous, 
built a log house, and attempted to hold the pine 
land, which is allowed in case certain requirements 
of the State are complied with. Disappointed in his 
estimate of soon having neighbors, and unwilling to 
remain longer in his isolated position, the settler 
abandoned his claim and returned to the haunts of 
civilization, heartily glad to be rid of his enterprise 
in the wilderness. 

Continuing our journey, the trail led us along the 
shore of a small lake having a length of about a half 
mile and a width of between two and three hundred 

22 



338 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

yards. It is nearly a mile to the south of the south- 
east arm of Lake Itasca, into which it falls through a 
Ewift brook with a sandy and pebbly bed. This 
pretty little lake was seen during my former visit and 
christened Gamble, after W. H. Gamble, a leading 
geographer of Philadelphia. The stream connecting 
it with Itasca was named Bear Creek, from the cir 
cumstance of our adventure referred to in a previous 
paragraph. 

A little farther on, we came to the last of the series 
of ridges which we had been successively climbing^ 
since we struck tents in the morning. From th& 
summit of this elevation we had a very good view of 
Lake Itasca, which was seen from the crest of the 
pine-covered bluff overlooking the southeastern arm 
of the lake. Here we bivouacked, and drank our cof- 
fee on the very spot from which I had my first glimjDsa 
of Itasca in 1881. I may further observe that School- 
craft, also, first looked upon this lake from the same- 
point in 1832, and Nicollet in 1836. 

We had now reached the terminus of our convey- 
ance on wheels, and, having lunched, the wagons 
were unloaded, and the canoes and baggage carried 
down to the lake. It being the intention to camp for 
the night on Schoolcraft Island, we embarked with- 
out delay, and an hour later were pitching our tents 
on the northeast side of the island, on the ground 
selected by my faithful guide, Chenowagesic, for the- 
encampment of my First Expedition ten years before. 



CHAPTER IX. 




HEADWATEKS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 

FTER an early breakfast at Camp Shure 
on the morning of the twenty-fourth, 
tents were* struck, and an hour later 
we were in our canoes, paddling up the 
southwestern arm of Lake Itasca, it 
being the intention to establish a per- 
manent camp and base of operations on 
the south side of the elevation of land 
which separates that arm of Itasca from 
the beautiful sheet of water, now generally recognized 
as the True Source of the Mississippi. 

As we approached the southern end of the lake, 
my companions seemed more than usually interested, 
and, resting on our paddles, we paused a few moments 
to scan its shores. To me the scene was quite famil- 
iar, but to them it was new and strange and full of 
material for future investigation; for it was this por- 
tion of Itasca, together with the fine lake beyond, 
and their respective feeders, which had occupied the 
attention of geographers for more than ten years. 
Entering on our right is a trickling rivulet having 
no well-defined course, and of little consequence. 
Directly in front is a small stream usually denomi- 
nated Nicollet Creek — the outlet of ponds situated in 
marshes to the southward. This creek and the insig- 
nificant ponds in which it originates were seen and 
entered by Nicollet in 1836, Julius Chambers in 1872, 

(339) 




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HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 341 

and again, by my party, in 1881; and have since been 
visited, christened, and re-christened so many times, 
by two or three enterprising parties from Saint Paul, 
that it is now extremely doubtful if the people of 
Minnesota, or elsewhere, have any definite idea of 
their claim to serious consideration. 

It is perhaps sufficient to add, that a certain repre- 
sentative of the Minnesota Historical Society, who 
has wasted much effort in his attempt to disprove my 
position, has moved up the valley of this stream, and, 
utterly ignoring the time-honored practice of geog- 
rajohers, has presumed to name, successively, bogs and 
ponds as important feeders of the Mississippi, until 
he has reached the limit of running water; then, 
scaling sand-hills, has imagined subterranean connec- 
tion with isolated dead lakes which he has exalted to 
the dignity of Fountain-head of the Great River. 
His ridiculous pretensions having finally been disposed 
of in this quarter, he springs a coup-de-main upon 
his unsuspecting followers, and announces to his 
^'^ select class of scientists ^^ at Saint Paul, that ^^all 
our rivers have their sources in the cloud s.^' It hav- 
ing been the purpose of my party to confine its obser- 
vations to terra-firma, we surrendered the department 
of the ^^ clouds" to the individual above referred to, 
and decided to ascend Nicollet Creek with compass 
and chain as soon as practicable. 

Resuming our observations, I may explain that we 
are still in our canoes, looking southward. On our 
right the west shore of Itasca is fringed with pine, 
while in our front its southern end and the eastern 
shore on our left are covered with tamarack, except- 
ing an open space at the summit of a hill near the 
southern extremity of the lake. The Hauteur de 



342 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Terre range of hills, whicli constitutes the Height of 
Land, may be clearly seen in the distance, and 
between these hills and the knoll there is a peculiar 
light which indicates to the practiced eye of the 
woodsman that there is a large body of water beyond. 
No portion of Itasca presents so many features of 
striking interest as this, and were it not that impera- 
tive duties urged us forward to other fields of equal 
and even greater interest, we would gladly have 
lingered longer where there was so much to excite 
our admiration. 

Passing from the scene which had held our atten- 
tion for nearly half an hour, I carefully scanned the 
eastern shore for the mouth of the Infant Mississippi, 
the view being obstructed now, as in 1881, by a rank 
growth of weeds, rushes, and wild rice. Fixing my 
eyes upon a small pine, which marks the precise 
point of entrance, we turned t*lie canoes and pushed 
them through the dense vegetation out into the clear 
waters of the inlet. I was now in my old tracks, 
ascending the stream which leads to the lake that has 
been for more than a decade the central figure in geo- 
graphical discussion in this country. 

We continued to move up the stream in our canoes 
until stopped by fallen trees; then, disembarking, we 
hastened forward on foot to the crest of the hill 
which overlooks the Source of the Mississippi and its 
outlet. Here we halted a few moments to survey the 
scene before us and to reflect upon the history of 
exploration in this quarter. Much has been said and 
written, since my earlier visit, tending to throw dis- 
credit upon my announcement of that date, and yet 
I honestly believe, and feel confident that I shall be 
able to maintain, that this beautiful body of water. 




(343) 



344 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

the Po-keg-a-ma of the Chippewas — re-named Lahe 
Glazier by the companions of my First Expedition — 
is the Primal Reservoir; that it was not so considered 
prior to my exploration of 1881, and that we were 
the first to correctly locate its feeders and establish 
its true relation to Lake Itasca and the Great River, 
It has been said, by some writers, that Schoolcraft 
saw this lake in 1832 and Nicollet in 1836. As to 
the former, it may be observed that there is not a line 
in the narrative of his explorations to indicate that 
he was south of the ishmd which bears his name. On 
the contrary, he plainly states that he reached the 
upper end of the southeastern arm of Lake Itasca 
about one o'clock in the afternoon of July tenth, 
1832, floated down to the island, had dinner, made a 
few observations, and having an appointment to meet 
Indians at the mouth of Crow Wing Rivera few days 
later, passed out of the lake and immediately began 
the descent of the Mississippi, reaching a point twenty- 
five miles below the outlet of Itasca in season for his 
evening encampment. An examination of his map 
will convince any unprejudiced mind that he could 
not have coasted this lake for its feeders; nor could 
he even have ascended its southwestern arm. Were 
his map faithful to nature, it is certainly not the result 
of personal observation, as I venture to assert that 
few men could do more within the time allotted by 
Mr. Schoolcraft for his investigations than he himself 
accomplished. To resume, therefore, and taking his 
own account as the most reliable authority which can 
be cited, he was less than three hours within the lim- 
its of the Itascan Basin. Much of the knowledge 
which he possessed of Lake Itasca and its environs 
must have been obtained from his Indian guide 
Ozawindib. 



HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 345« 

I here introduce a few quotations from Sclioolcraft, 
in support of my position that he omitted to explore 
Lake Itasca; and give in his own language his rea- 
sons for not doing so. It will readily be seen by tha 
following extract from his '''^Narrative of the Expedi- 
tion/' page 235j, ^^ Sources of the Mississippi" — Lip- 
pincott^ 1855 — that his engagement to meet Indians 
at a date previously agreed upon, precluded the i^ossi- 
bility of his making anything more than a very lim- 
ited investigation. He says: 

"Besides, I had agreed to meet the Indians at tlie moiitli of 
the Crow Wing River on the twenty-fourth of July, and tliat 
engagement must be fulfilled." 

Again, on the ensuing day, at the time of his- 

arrival at Lake Itasca, he remarks, on page 242 : 

"After passing down its longest arm we landed at an island 
which appeared to be the only one in the lake. I immediately 
had my tent pitched, and, while the cook exerted his skill to 
prepare a meal, scrutinized its shores for Crustacea, while 
Dr. Houghton sought to identify its plants. While here, the 
latter recognized the mycrostylis opMoglossoide^ physalis lan- 
ceolata, silene antirrhina, and viola pedata." 

Further, as a proof that it was utterly impossible 
for Schoolcraft to have explored Itasca between the 
time of his arrival on its shores and his going inta 
camp on the afternoon of the same day, on the Mis- 
sissippi, twenty-five miles below the outlet of the 
lake, I submit the following, from the same and a 
succeeding chapter, which shows very conclusively 
that his time on the island was fully taken up Avith 
astronomical observations, the coining of a name for 
the newly discovered lake, geological investigations, 
raising the flag, and other ceremonies in connection 
therewith, and the composition of a commemorative 
poem. Referring to his observations and the naming 
of the lake, he tells us that: 



346 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

"The latitude of this lake is 47' 13' 35''. The highest 
grounds passed over by us in our transit from the Assowa 
Lake lie at an elevation of 1,695 feet. The view given of the 
scene in the first volume of my ' Ethnological Researches,' page 
140, is taken from a point north of the island, looking into 
the vista of the south arm of the lake; I inquired of Ozawin- 
dib the Indian name of this lake; he replied, Omushkos, 
which is the Chippewa name of the elk. Having previously 
got an inkling of some of their mythological and necromantic 
notions of the origin and mutations of the country which per- 
mitted the use of a female name for it, I denominated it Itasca." 

Assuming that Schoolcraft was three hours at^ and 
in the vicinity of, Itasca, and allowing an hour for 
the descent of its southeastern arm to the island, 
and another hour for passing out of the lake after 
his investigations were completed, it will be seen that 
not over one hour, at most, could have been spent in 
other employments, and that hour was fully occupied 
in pitching and striking tents, in a study of the hot- 
^ny, arborology, and mineralogy of the island and 
the finding of its latitude, together with the produc- 
tion of his expressive " Stanzas on Reaching the 
Source of the Mississippi,''^ which alone would have 
taxed the wits and inspiration of many explorers a 
week instead of the fraction of an hour. 

Proceeding with his examinations at the island, 
Mr. Schoolcraft observes, on page 246 : 

"On scrutinizing the shores of the island on which I had 
encamped, innumerable helices, and other small univalves, 
were found; among these I observed a new species, which Mr. 
Cooper has described as j^lctnoj-bis campanulatus. There were 
bones of certain species of fish, as well as the bucklers of one 
or two kinds of tortoise, scattered around the sites of old Indian 
camp-fires, denoting so many points of its natural history. 
Amidst the forest trees before named, the betula iiapyracece, 
and spruce were observed. Directing one of the latter to be 
€ut down and prepared as a flagstaff, I caused the United States 
flag to be hoisted on it. This symbol was left flying at our 
departure. Ozawindib, who at once comprehended the 
meaning of this ceremony, with his companions fired a salute 
as it reached its elevation." 



HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 347 

Concluding his scientific investigations^ School- 
craft devoted the remainder of his exceedingly brief 
visit to the island in evolving the poem to which pre- 
vious allusion has been made. It is, perhaps,, not 
too much to add that few writers have been favored 
with so happy a theme, or have written under more 
romantic circumstances, and whatever its poetic 
merit, I feel very confident that it will at least con- 
vince the reader that if its author did not see the 
True Head of the Great Eiver, he was certainly not 
idle during his sojourn of an hour on Schoolcraft 
Island. 

I present, without apology, Mr. Schoolcraft^s beau- 
tiful poem as a part of the record of his visit to Lake 
Itasca : 

STANZAS OK REACHIITG THE SOUECE OF THE MIS- 
SISSIPPI RIVER Ilf 1832. 

I. 

Ha! truant of Western waters! Thou who hast 

So long concealed thy very sources, flitting shy — 
Now here, now there — through spreading mazes vast, 

Thou art, at length, discovered to the eye 
In crystal springs that run, like silver thread. 

From out their sandy heights, and glittering lie 
Within a beauteous basin, fair outspread, 

Hesperian woodlands of the western sky, 
As if, in Indian myths, a truth there could be read, 
And these were tears, indeed, by fair Itasca shed. 

II. 

To bear the sword, on prancing steed arrayed; 

To lift the voice admiring senates own; 
To tune the lyre enraptured muses played ; 

Or pierce the starry heavens, the blue unknown, 
These were the aims of many sons of fame, 

Who shook the world with glory's golden song. 
I sought a moral meed of less acclaim, 

In treading lands remote, nnd mazes long; 
And while around aerial voices ring, 
I quaff the limpid cup at Mississippi's spring. 

— H. R. S. 



348 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

His examinations completed and his poem finished, 

we follow Schoolcraft to his evening encampment on 

the Mississip23i, twenty-five miles below the outlet of 

Itasca. Continuing his narrative, he writes, on page 

246: 

''Having made the necessary examinations, I directed my 
tent to be struck, and the canoes put into the water, and imme- 
diately embarked. The outlet lies north of the island. Before 
reaching it we had lost sight of the flagstaff, owing to the 
curvature of the shore. Unexpectedly, the outlet proved quite a 
brisk brook, with a mean width of ten feet, and one foot in 
depth. The water is as clear as crystal, and w^e at once found 
ourselves gliding along, over a sandy and pebbly bottom, 
strewed with the scattered valves or shells, at a brisk rate. 
After descending some twenty-five miles, we encamped on a 
high sandy bluff on the left hand." 

When it is considered that the foregoing quotations 
are taken from the record of a single day, and that 
almost the entire forenoon was occupied in making a 
portage between the east and west forks of the Mis- 
sissippi, and that, in addition to passing through a 
portion of Lake Itasca, he descended the river twenty- 
five miles, it is as clear as the noonday sun that he 
could not have had more than an hour at his disposal 
on the island, and during his passage through the lake; 
and the assumption of a few critics that he must have 
seen the lake to the south of Itasca is not within the 
bounds of reason. It is, therefore, to be conclusively 
inferred that Schoolcraft saw Lake Itasca, accepted 
it as the Source of the Mississi23pi — j^^^bably on the 
authority of his Indian guide — passed out of the lake 
and descended the river. Hence, it was impossible 
that he could have coasted Itasca, or given any atten- 
tion to its affluents, and, in support of this view, 
I find that he makes no claim to having done so in 
the narrative of his expedition. 

Did Nicollet see the Source of the Mississippi? If 



jsr. 

A 



II 




LAKE ITASCA 
SCHOOLCRAFT, 1832. 



47°30 




/Lake Oauas 



LAKE ITASCA 



AND VICINITY. 
Tbom Nicollet's Map, now deposited in the 
GenekalLand Office, "Washington, D. C. 

Scale : 20 miles to at inch. 



BANC, MC NALLY St CO. 



MAPS OF SCHOOLCRAFT AND NICOLLET 
(349) 



350 DISCOYERY OF THE TRUE SQURCE. 

so^ he does not describe the lake which more recent 
investigation has located as the Origin of the river. 
There is nothing on his map, to the southeast of Itasca, 
which resembles the delineations of later explorers, 
except the creek which enters the extreme southern 
end of the southwest arm of the lake, and the small 
ponds which are expansions of the stream. He doubt- 
less coasted Itasca in his canoe, and as the mouth of 
this tributary is open and clear of obstructions, he 
readily entered and ascended it. No recent explorer 
will think it strange that he did not see the more im- 
portant stream proceeding from the large lake to the 
southeastward, wdien we reflect that its inlet into Itasca 
is obstructed by reeds and rushes, and completely 
hidden from view. Had Schoolcraft and Nicollet 
ascended this stream, and looked upon this highly 
picturesque, lake, they would doubtless have given it 
its true character in the record of their explorations. 

Was Julius Chambers at the real Source of the 
Great Kiver in 1872? No! unless we are to disbelieve 
his published statements. After an examination of 
his map, and reading with much care everything 
relating to the subject, I fail to find confirmation of 
the theory that has been advanced by one or two 
opponents, that he must have seen, in that year, the 
lake which I describe as the Primal Reservoir. The 
subjoined extract from the narrative of Mr. Chambers, 
in the New York Herald of July sixth, 1872, proves 
conclusively that he did not visit the Head of the 
river, or any of its feeders; on the contrary, it is very 
evident that he paddled his canoe, '^ Dolly Varden,^' 
up Nicollet Creek to its first pond, which he clearly 
describes in the following language: 

" Here, then, is the source of the longest river in the world; 



HEADWATERS OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 351 

in a small lake, scarcely a quarter of a mile in diameter, in the 
midst of a floating bog, the fountains which give birth to the 
Mississippi." 

Before concluding with Mr. Chambers, let me ask: 
Is there one, among the many who are to-day familiar 
with the nomenclature and characteristics of tliis 
region, who will so far stultify himself, and mislead 
others, as to assert that the foregoing quotation refers 
to the True Head of the Mississippi — an expanse of 
water nearly two miles in diameter, having a circum- 
ference of between five and six miles, and an area of 
255 acres, presenting high and wooded shores, and 
with no swamps or " floating bogs^' in its vicinity? 

What was accomplished by the Government survey 
of 1875 in the direction of throwing light upon the 
vexed question? Very little, beyond showing the area 
and relative proportions of the two lakes under dis- 
cussion. It was not within its province to trace 
streams to their sources, to determine heights and 
levels, or meander lakes of less than forty acres in 
extent. Hopewell Clarke, a contemporary, and a 
surveyor by profession, who did me the honor to 
investigate and report upon my explorations of 1881, 
comments thus upon the survey in question: 

"A singular mistake, however, on the Government plat is 
easily accounted for. The course of the stream from lake H, 
uutil it crosses the south line of Section 22, is substantially 
correct as laid down on the Government map; but when they 
ran the line between Sections 21 and 22, this stream was not 
crossed again, and they naturally supposed it ran due north 
through the western edge of Section 22, and that the stream 
flowing out of Section 21 into 22 was a branch running into 
the main stream; whereas, this is the main stream, which, pass- 
ing westward under their feet into Section 21 by an outlet 
which they they did not see, because it was underground, 
takes its course through the eastern part of Section 21, and 
crosses into Section 22 again at the point where the Govern- 
ment surve3^ors had indicated a feeder to the main stieam. 
The two small lakes, C and D, on Section 22, and the two, A and 



352 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

B, on Section 21, would not be crossed by a section line; bence, 
they were not indicated by the surveyors. At a point where 
the section line, between Sections 21 and 28, crosses the branch 
of the spring flowing out of Section 28, the course of the 
stream is through a boggy swamp, and it would hardly be 
noticed as the stream, without going a considerable distance 
north or south of the section line ; hence, it is not shown on the 
Government maps, but in place of it, is shown a marsh." 

It will be seen by the foregoing that Mr. Clarke 

had excellent reasons for excusing the inaccuracies of 

"the survey, when, as he informs us in this connection: 

" Their business was to establish sectional corners; blaze lines 
iDetween the sections; note all lakes intercepted by the section 
lines; meander all lakes of more than forty acres in extent; 
note streams crossed, and indicate their apparent direction. 
Errors will creep into their work, but when we take into consid- 
eration the difficulties they bad to contend with, it is not to be 
wondered at." 

I quite agree with Mr. Clarke that the mistakes 
committed by the survey are not to be wondered at, 
and can readily understand their excuse for omitting 
to show on their map a most important feeder of the 
True Source. Had they traced its affluents to the 
springs at the foot of the sand-hills, they would have 
discovered, in 1875, what I learned, in 1881; that, 
instead of being a mere feeder of Itasca, the large lake 
beyond it is the Fountain-head of the Mississippi. 

With the exclusively topographical survey, under 
Edwin S. Hall and his assistants, began and ended 
all investigation of an authentic character at the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi, up to 1881. Just what 
this survey really developed has been presented in pre- 
ceding paragraphs. After an interval of ten years, I 
returned, with the largest body of explorers and sur- 
veyors that had ever stood on this ground, to examine 
my former work, and to submit my claim to impartial 
consideration. 



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CHAPTER X. 



JOURNAL OF THE EXPEDITIO]!^. 




'AVINGr reviewed the explorations of 
those who preceded my earlier visit, 
and briefly alluded to recent investiga- 
tion, I now present in detail, from our 
daily field notes, the observations of 
my Second Expedition. 

Preliminary to the exploratory work 
of the following seven days, I may 
ex2:>lain that our tents were pitched, 
and a permanent headquarters established on the south 
side of the ridge, or elevated land, which separates 
Itasca from the lake beyond, near the outlet of the 
latter. This rendezvous we named Camp Trost, in 
compliment to our photographer. For convenience, 
the beautiful sheet of water in our front will be 
referred to in future pages as Lake Glazier. 

Camp Trost, August 25, 1891. — Messrs. Trost and 
Shure were up at five o'clock, and otf in a canoe with 
their trolling-hooks, on Lake Glazier, in quest of fish. 
Their etforts were rewarded with a fine mess of bass, 
pike, perch, and pickerel, which were caught in 
season for an early breakfast. 

At seven o'clock, a detail was made to accompany 
Surveyors Horton and Keay in an examination of 
Nicollet Creek. It was decided that Messrs. Cobb, 
Crane, Cutting, Whitney, and myself should form 

(354) 



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356 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

this committee of investigation; and that the length, 
width, depth, and velocity of current of this stream 
should be ascertained by careful measurement. 
Launching our canoes on Itasca, we were soon at the 
extremity of the southwest arm of the lake, and a 
moment later at the mouth of the creek. This we 
found, by the aid of the chain, to be ten feet wide and 
two and a half feet deep. We then ascended this 
feeder to a small pond, or, more correctly, a floating 
bog. The area of the pond, or bog, was found to be 
less than three acres; and the only water exposed to 
view was nearly filled with lily-pads. Continuing up 
the creek, we came to a second pond, somewhat larger 
than the first, and, a few yards farther on, to the 
origin of the stream, in a spring at the foot of a sand 
hill. Our measurement enabled us to determine that 
the distance of the spring from Lake Itasca is 7,307 
feet, or only a mile and three-eighths. 

Before returning to camp, I may explain that this 
is the creek which Nicollet ascended in 1836, and 
roughly estimated to be from two to three miles in 
length; and which Hopewell Clarke, in 188G, reduced 
to two miles. A still more recent visitor, clothed 
with " a little brief authority,'^ under the State 
Government, has such an unaccountable penchant for 
exaggeration, that, in his report to the Governor of 
Minnesota, he calls this creek a river, and elevates its 
insignificant ponds to the dignity of lakes. It may 
be observed that our careful measurement of the 
stream by chain shows its length to be only one 
mile and three-eighths. 

If we pause to consider the difficulties encountered by 
Nicollet, while wading through a tamarack marsh, we 
can easily believe that this is the stream he describes 




From Photograph by F. J. Trost. 

EAGLE S NEST. 

Western Shore of Lake Glazier. 

(357) 



358 DISCOVERT OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

as two or three miles in length; but there is no 
excuse, at the present clay, for any exaggeration on 
the part of my successors, who allege that they " car- 
ried instruments,"^ and whose unworthy motive for 
misrepresentation is clearly seen to be a predetermi- 
nation to misplace me, and by so doing mislead 
geographers and the public. 

Concluding our investigations at the head of Nicol- 
let Creek, we returned to the encampment, and later 
in the day I coasted Lake Glazier. Messrs. Cobb and 
Cutting accompanied me, and seemed greatly sur- 
prised and pleased with the size and appearance of 
the lake. 

Camp Trost, August 26, 1891. — All hands were 
astir at six o'clock. Most of the party complained 
of being cold during the night, although each had a 
covering of from two to three heavy woolen blankets. 

The forenoon was devoted to the work of coasting 
Lake Itasca for its feeders. The committee appointed 
for this purpose reported on their return that they 
had found the outlets of six small streams — two of 
them with well-defined mouths, and four filtering 
into the lake through bogs. The stream leading to 
Lake Glazier, properly designated as the "^Infant Mis- 
sissippi," and the one leading up the Nicollet Valley, 
to both of which allusion has already been made, are 
the only affluents of Lake Itasca worthy of any con- 
sideration; the other four being insignificant rivu- 
lets, rising at very short distances from the lake, and 
having no definite course. 

In the afternoon, I again coasted Lake Glazier, 
accompanied by my daughter, Trost, and Shure. 
Starting on the right of the outlet, we passed en- 
tirely around the lake, a distance of between five 




(359) 



360 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

and six niiles^ halting at the mouths of Eagle^, Ex- 
celsior^ and Deer creeks, its principal affluents. 
Alice made a sketch of theBagle's JVestj which was 
plainly seen in the branches of a tall pine near the 
mouth of Eagle Creek. This same nest had been 
observed during my previous visit, ten years before, 
and I was then informed by Chenowagesic that he 
had seen it there for the past thirty years. It was 
the circumstance of seeing this nest, and several 
eagles in its vicinity, that led me to name the stream 
which enters this side of the lake. Eagle Creek. 

On reaching the mouth of Excelsior Creek, at the 
southern end of the lake, we disembarked, and 
walked u|) the western bank of this tributary to th? 
crest of a hill. On returning to our canoe, Mr. Trost 
photographed tlie Eagle's ISTest from the mouth of 
the creek, and also produced a picture of the jutting 
headland, nsimed Harriet Promontory , with its mantle 
of foliage. On this spot my party of 1881 had landed, 
and talked over the results of our expedition of that 
year. To revert to Excelsior Creek, I may observe 
that it was so named for the reason that it is the 
longest, and, in its origin, the highest stream that pays 
tribute to the Primal Reservoir of the Great Eiver. 

Leaving Harriet Promontory, we continued our 
course along the southern shore to tlie mouth of 
another tributary, where we again landed, and walked 
along the white sand beach, which is a peculiar and 
striking feature of this locality. Our attention was 
arrested by the great number of deer and moose tracks 
indenting the sandy shore. A similar incident during 
my previous visit led me to give to the stream falling 
into the lake at this point the name of Deer Creek. 

On our way back to camp, the quick ear of Mr. 



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362 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Shure caught tlie sound of falling water on the east- 
ern shore. Upon examination^ a stream was found 
issuing from a mammoth fountain on the side of a 
steep hill, about forty feet above. A current of 
great Telocity rushed down the hillside, and, meeting 
broken ground in its descent, formed a cascade mid- 
way between its source and the lake. The water was 
largely impregnated with iron. This spring was 
christened Shure, and the cascade was named 
Florence, after his wife. 

During our circuit of the lake, my daughter had 
her trolling-hook over the stern of the canoe, and 
captured a pike, a perch, a rock bass, and twelve 
pickerel, one of the latter weighing nearly fifteen 
pounds. 

It may here be observed that the Primal Reservoir 
of the Mississippi is nearly an oval in shape, its great- 
est diameter being a fraction less than two miles. Its 
area is 255 acres, and the average depth, forty-five 
feet. The water is exceedingly clear, revealing, in 
the shallower parts, a pebbly bed. Its high and 
thickly wooded shores are extremely picturesque, the 
regularity and uniformity of the trees and their lux- 
uriant foliage giving the scene the resemblance to an 
extensive park improved by art, rather than a wild 
product of nature. The jDine, spruce, tamarack, and 
several varieties of hardwood, including oak, beech, 
birch, and maple, were observed from our canoe, 
gracefully bending their crests to the passing breeze. 

Camp Trost, August 27, 1891. — Called the party 
together after breakfast, and formed committees of 
investigation for the day. Messrs. Crane, Trost, 
Kea}^ Shure, Munsell, Harrison, Knowlton, and 
myself, it was arranged, should proceed forthwith 




(363) 



364 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

to the lake, to which a recent pretentious explorer 
had applied the name, '^'^ Hernando de Soto/' claim- 
ing it to be the ^'^ source" of the Mississippi, while he 
admits, at the same time, I believe, that it has no sur- 
face connection with Lake Itasca or that river. With 
this admission, we hardly recognized the utility of 
making any investigation in this direction, but, being- 
determined to examine everything that has occupied 
the attention of geographers and the public, with the 
utmost care, we imposed upon ourselves a duty which, 
in the light of former and recent investigation, was 
felt to be somewhat superfluous and unnecessary. I 
can not admit that, in a search for the source of a 
river, there can be any good reason for passing the 
limit of running water. We, however, set apart this 
dav for the examination of ^''Lake Hernando de 
Soto.'' On our way up, Trost photographed the bog, 
pond, and spring in Nicollet Valley. We reached 
^'^ Hernando'' at three o'clock in the afternoon, and 
found, as I had anticipated, that its character and 
dimensions had been greatly overdrawn. That it has 
no visible connection with Lake Itasca or the Mis- 
sissippi Avas the verdict of our entire party; in fact, it 
is an insignificant dead lake, like others in its vicinity. 
It has no inlet or outlet that we could discover, and if 
it has an underground communication with any other 
body of water, it is more likely to discharge itself into 
Lake Glazier than Lake Itasca. All returned to 
camp disgusted with the loss of a day, uselessly spent 
in tramping through bogs and over sand hills in pur- 
suit of an imaginary source of the Great Eiver. 

However it may appear to some, to me, at least, it 
seems an insult to the memory of the illustrious De 
Soto to apply his name to anything so unimportant 




(365; 



366 DISCOYERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

as an isolated dead lake, having no surface connec- 
tion with the Great River, with which he will be 
eternally associated. I, therefore, respectfully sug- 
gest to the Minnesota Historical Society that the 
name of the renowned Spaniard be withdrawn, and 
that of the pseudo discoverer of this lake be con- 
ferred upon it. Let Hernando de Soto be insepara- 
bly connected with lakes and streams that pay living 
tribute to the majestic river which will be forever a 
monument to his fame, rather than consign it to the 
oblivion of a dead lake. 

On our way out to ''Hernando,^^ a pleasing incident 
occurred. We had not proceeded far from camp when 
our ears were suddenly startled by a prolonged shout 
or ^*^call-whoop,^^ which echoed through the silent 
woods from some one at a distance. We, of course, 
answered in the language of the forest. Soon a 
crashing of the underbrush revealed to us an Indian, 
who approached me with an exj^ression of pleasure 
on his bronze countenance, and I at once recognized 
in our sturdy visitor my old interpreter of 1881 — 
Moses Lagard. Upon receiving a cordial greeting, 
he explained his presence by telling us that he had 
heard through the missionary at Leech Lake — his 
home, nearly one hundred miles away — of our expe- 
dition, and at once resolved to find us. With a small 
wallet of food and some matches he had started 
forthwith on his long tramp, which occupied him 
several days. When night overtook him, he had lain 
down in the forest and slept as only an Indian can 
sleep, with no roof over him but the sky, and no 
other covering than the clothes he wore. He said he 
fully believed he would find his old employer wher- 
ever he might be in that region. Need I say that I 




OUTLET OF LAKE GLAZIER. 
(367) 



368 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

was more than glad to see him again, and gratified 
by his loyalty and devotion? The distance he had 
traveled was little less than a hnndred miles, but 
fatigue was unknown to him. I introduced him to 
my companions, and engaged him to remain with us 
until our return to Park Ea^jids. He was useful to 
us in many ways, although we had no need of an 
interpreter; and, around the camp-fire at night, his 
tales of adventure and translations of English words 
into Chippewa were very entertaining to his audi- 
ence. I will only add that he was faithful in all 
things, and always on the alert to serve us to the best 
of his ability. 

It may be here observed that before our start in 
the morning, Snrveyor Horton and Mr. Whitney were 
detached with instructions to chain and report upon 
the length of Excelsior Creek; also its width, dej^th, 
and velocity at three tlifferent points. They found 
its length to be 8,778 feet; its width at the mouth, 
seven feet; its depth, two and a half feet. About 
midway between its mouth and the spring in which 
it originates, the width was reported at three feet 
and its depth six inches. The following is the result 
of careful measurement: 

From Lake Itasca to Lake Glazier. 1,100 feet. 

Across Lak(! Glazier to mouth of Excelsior Creek. .4,228 feet. 
Length of Excelsior Creek 8,778 feet. 

It will thus be seen that from Lake Itasca to the 
head of Excelsior Creek is l-1, 106 feet, clearly demon- 
strating that this stream is not only the most imjior- 
tant feeder of Lake Glazier, but that its source is 
nearly twice as far from Lake Itasca as is the head of 
Nicollet Creek, and furnishes the most convincing 
evidence to the impartial investigator that the lake 
located by me is the Primal Keservoir — the source 




24 



(369; 



370 DISCOVERT OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

of Excelsior Creek being at a much greater distance 
from Lake Itasca than that of any stream directly 
tributary to it. 

Camp Trost, August 28, 1891. — Breakfast at 7.30, 
after which Surveyor Horton and Mr. Whitney 
crossed to the southern shore of Lake Glazier in a 
canoe, and ascended Deer Creek for the purpose of 
taking its measurements. They reported its length to 
be 6,864 feet; its width at the entrance into the lake, 
three feet, and depth at this point, fifteen inches. 
This stream, which enters the extreme southern end 
of the lake, is about half a mile east of Excelsior 
Creek, and is second only in importance to the last- 
named tributary. 

While coasting the southern shore of Lake Glazier 
for the mouth of Deer Creek, Horton and Whitney 
discovered a small stream which, on ascending, they 
found had its source in a lakelet about half a mile 
inland. 

In the afternoon, Keay, Munsell, my daughter and 
I walked out to Lake Alice. Alice expressed her sur- 
prise and delight on viewing the beautiful little lake 
to which her name had been given in 1881. While 
we were at Lake Alice, Horton and Whitney returned 
to the creek they had discovered in the morning. 
They found u|)on investigation with compass and 
chain, that their little stream was 1,188 feet long, 
and that the lakelet at its head had an area of be- 
tween two and three acres. With one exception, 
this tributary is the smallest and shortest of the five 
permanent affluents of Lake Glazier, but when looked 
upon from a geographical point of view, as a feeder 
of the Primal Eeservoir of the Great Eiver, it may be 
regarded as of considerable importance. 




GLEN ALICE. 

Valley of Eagle Creek. 

(371) 



372 DISCOVEKT OF THE TEUE SOURCE. 

Camp Trost, August 29, 1891. — In the morning 
Messrs. Horton, Keay, Shure, Trost, Harrison, Knowl- 
ton, and my daughter Avalked out again to Lake Alice 
for the purpose of surveying and sketching the lake 
and its surroundings; also, of measuring the length 
of Eagle Creek. The measurement of the creek gave 
it a length of 6,978 feet from its entrance into the 
lake to its origin in springs some distance beyond 
Lake Alice. 

It may here be noted that Eagle Creek ranks third 
in importance as a feeder of Lake Clazier. It has a 
well-defined mouth, a sandy and pebbly bed, and an 
average width of about three feet. 

After dinner I crossed Lake Glazier with Horton, 
Harrison, andKnowlton, and walked up the banks of 
the creek discovered by Horton on the previous day. 
We then proceeded to Harriet Promontory, on which 
our party of 1881 had assembled after the investiga- 
tions which had led to the conviction and subsequent 
announcement that the lake to the south of, and be- 
yond, Itasca was the True Source of the Mississippi. 

Upon reaching the point of the promontory, we sig- 
naled our friends on the northern shore of the lake 
to join us, and on their arrival, every member of the 
expedition being present, we raised the Stars and 
Stripes to the top of a neighboring pine, the same 
flag, I may state, that my party had assembled under, 
on the same spot, in 1881. 

Our investigations of the Source and alleged sources 
of the Great Eiver were now ended, and so far as I 
could gather, there appeared to be a consensus of belief 
as to the Primal Reservoir. I had hitherto, however, 
received no direct communication of the views of 
any member of the party, as it had been given me to 



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374 DISCOVERT OF THE TRUE SOUROi!. 

understand that a joint consultation would be held 

upon the subject, and the result submitted in a 

formal report. 

I now proceeded to offer a few remarks in terms 

prompted by my own feelings and the conclusions I 

had long since reached, and spoke substantially as 

follows : 

"Friends and Companions op my Second Expedition to 
THE Headwaters of the Mississippi : 

"This ground on which we are asserabled to-day has a pe- 
culiar interest for me, for it was on tliis spot, in 1881, that I 
stood surrounded by the little band which had followed me 
through lake and portage in my long journey from the then 
frontier town of Brainerd, across Northern Minnesota. It 
was here I pronounced the beautiful lake upon which we are 
now looking the True Source of the Gre^ River, It was also 
here that we embarked on our voyage from source to sea; and 
now, after a lapse of ten years, you, who represent nearly every 
section of our country, have come togetherto discuss the results 
of your investigations as to the truth of my announcement 
that this lake is the Primal Reservoir of the Mississippi. 

" I had long been of the opinion that Lake Itasca occupied 
an erroneous position in our geography, but when I came lo 
the Mississippi in 1881, that lake was everywhere considered 
and laid down as the Source of the * Father of Running 
Waters,' while many Indians of Northern Minnesota affirmed 
that there were other lakes and streams beyond. Our geogra- 
phers and educational publishers still believed in the an- 
nouncement made by Schoolcraft in 1832, and confirmed by 
Nicollet in 1836. Several persons have visited this region 
since their day, but not in the capacity of explorers. These 
later visitors looked upon this lake and went away, still ac 
cepting the source designated by the earlier explorers. They 
did not see or search for its feeders. They were not aware 
of the proportions of these feeders. They did not measure 
their length or width or depth. They did not ascertain by 
actual investigation that this lake was the center of a large 
basin; that some of its affluents extended to the sand hills, and 
that it was what its Indian name, 'Pokegama,' implies, 'The 
Place where the Waters Gather,' the Primal Reservoir or True 
Fountain-head, from which the Mississippi starts on its long 
and tortuous journey to the tropical Gulf, 3,000 miles away. 
Careful investigation showed all this in 1881; and now, gen- 
tlemen, you, who form my Second Expedition of 1891, have 
been able to verify or disprove my published statements. 
You have seen every lake and stream which has occupied the 



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376 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOtTRCE. 

attention of geographers during tlie controversy which has 
followed. Let me indulge the hope that you will, at an early 
day, report the result of your investigations, as I feel sure you 
will thereby enable all fair-minded persons to determine defi- 
nitely that the origin of our Gicat River is found in the lake 
which meets every requirement of geographers and scientists. 
I feel, furthermore, that you are called upon to give an im- 
partial account of what you have seen, as I have reason to be- 
lieve the geographical world is looking forward with much 
interest to the outcome of your investigations." 

At the conclusion of my remarks^ Mr. Giles was 
called upon to read liis record of the expedition, 
which he did^ commencing with the day on which the 
party left Minneapolis, and ending on that on which 
our explorations were concluded. The record was in 
the form of a diary, and, therefore, recounted the 
proceedings of each day. 

Then followed the surveyors' report on Lakes 
Itasca and Glazier and their affluents. This report, 
of the particulars of which I had previously no cog- 
nizance, appeared to me in every respect confirma- 
tory of all I had advanced in 1881, and subsequently, 
upon the subject of the True Source. The rej)ort is 

here given verbatim : 

Lake Glazier, Minnesota, 
August 29, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier. 

Dear Sir: In compliance with your request, we hereby 
submit a statement covering our investigations as to the length 
of afiiuents flowing into the southwestern arm of Lake Itasca, 
and into Lake Glazier. The following are the results: 

"Nicollet Creek, from Lake Itasca to source, 7,307 feet. 
Equal to 1 mile and 2,027 feet. 

Eagle Creek, from Lake Itasca to source, viz.: 

Length of Infant Mississippi, or stream connecting 

Lakes Glazier and Itasca. 1,100 feet. 

Across Lake Glazier, northern end 1,980 ' ' 

From Lake Glazier to Lake Alice 4,356 " 

Length of Lake Alice 924 

Length of Inlet to Lake Alice. - - 1,518 

Total from Lake Itasca to source of Eagle Creek 9,878 
Equal to 1 mile and 4.598 feet. 






JOUKiTAL OF THE EXPEDITION. 377 

Excelsior Creek: 

Infant Mississippi 1,100 feet. 

Across Lake Glazier from its outlet to mouth of 

Excelsior 4,228 " 

From mouth of Excelsior Creek to its source in 

Sandhills 8.778 " 

Total distance from Lake Itasca to source of 

Excelsior 14,106 " 

Equal to 2 miles and 3,546 feet. 

Deer Creek, from Lake Itasca to source, viz. : 

Infant Mississippi 1,100 feet. 

Across Lake Glazier to mouth of Creek 5,940 " 

Length of Deer Creek _ 6,864 



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Total from Lake Itasca to source of Deer Creek.. 13, 904 
Equal to 2 miles and 3,344 feet. 

HoRTON Creek, from Lake Glazier to source in 

Whitney Pond. 1,188 " 

Length of Whitney Pond 396 '* 



Total length of Horton Creek 1,584 " 

Area of Lake Glazier 255 acres 

Average depth of Lake Glazier 45 feet. 

Area of Lnke Alice. ._ 9i acres 

Area of Whitney Pond 2 



t < 



In all cases our measurements of streams were made, as 
nearly as practicable, along the shore. We measured all the 
affluents flowing into the southwest arm of Lake Itasca, and 
also those emptying into Lake Glazier, and found that Excel- 
sior Creek, a feeder of Lake Glazier, was by far the longest 
tributary of either lake, its source being 6,799 feet farther 
from Lake Itasca than the source of Nicollet Creek, errone- 
ously supposed by some to be the most important feeder of 
Itasca. It is, therefore, our firm belief that the Primal Reser- 
voir or True Source of the Mississippi is in Lake Glazier — the 
only well-defined body of water lying above Itasca, and hav- 
ing any connection therewith, or with the Great River. 

Respectfully submitted, 
(Signed) E. M. Horton, ) a^^^„^^„ 

Oliver S. Keay, \ ^^^^^V^^- 

Mr. Whitney, the botanist of the expedition, who 
had been diligent in the investigation of the flora of 
the surrounding region, being next in order, said in 



^HS DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

substance, that he was preparing, and would submit 
later, a detailed report, but for the present would 
only state in general terms, that the vegetation at 
the Headwaters of the Mississippi bore a strong affin- 
ity to that found in Northern Michigan and Wiscon- 
sin, and the region bordering upon the Great Lakes. 
He had collected many specimens of the native 
plants, and proposed to carefully analyze them and 
submit his views. 

Mr. Crane then announced that he was requested 
by his companions of the expedition to express their 
appreciation for the opportunity afforded them of 
visiting the Head of the mighty river. Having seen 
and carefully surveyed the Headwaters, they felt 
competent to report intelligently as to its Source. 
But one conclusion had been reached by the entire 
party, and that was that Lake Glazier was the Prima? 
Eeservoir and the only body of water that could 
consistently be designated the Fountain-head. Mr. 
Crane added that a report embodying this view 
would shortly be formulated and submitted. He 
closed his remarks by proposing a vote of thanks for 
the arrangements I had made* for their convenience 
and comfort during their investigations. 

Dr. Harrison seconded the motion, and in a few 
words expressed his entire concurrence in Mr. Crane's 
remarks with reference to the True Head of the river. 
The motion was carried unanimously. Dr. Harrison 
complimented my daughter on her courage in accom- 
panying her father into so wild a region, to which 
she briefly responded. 

The party was then- formed in line on the beach, 
and each member having brought his rifle, shotgun, 
or revolver, twenty -five volleys were fired as a salute 



JOURKAL OF THE EXPEDITION". 379 

to the FLAG, six rounds for the party of 1881, and 
nineteen for that of 1891. 

We now got into our canoes and returned to camp, 
skirting the eastern shore of the lake, and reaching 
the encampment on the northern shore between live 
and six o^clock. 

Sunday, August 30, 1891. — This day was spent 
quietly in camp, the morning being for the most part 
devoted to writing up journals and preparing letters 
for home, to be mailed upon our return to Park 
Eapids. 

In the afternoon it was suggested by Mr. Crane 
that divine service be conducted, a suggestion imme- 
diately approved by the entire party. We accord- 
ingly assembled in front of the tents and sat in a 
semicircle on the dry grass, while our pastor for the 
occasion stood on rising ground facing us. Bible in 
hand, he commenced the service by reading a chapl^r 
from the New Testament. Then followed a very 
impressive prayer, and this by an excellent discourse 
on the calling of the fishermen, Simon and Andrew, 
to the discipleship. Mr. Crane had a most attentive 
audience during his sermon, following which, all 
united in singing ^^ Nearer My God to Thee," Mr. 
Knowlton leading. The service occupied about an 
hour, and closed with the doxology and benediction. 
Mr. Crane may doubtless claim the credit of having 
delivered the first sermon ever preached at the Source 
of the Mississippi. 




(380) 



CHAPTER XL 



RETUKN^ TO MIN^NEAPOLIS. 



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FTER an early breakfast at Camp Trost, 
on the morning of August thirty-first, 
I went down to the shore of Lake 
Glazier, accompanied by my daughter 
and Lagard. Getting into a canoe on 
the right of the outlet, we passed entirely 
around the lake, halting at the mouths 
of Eagle, Excelsior, Horton, and Deer 
creeks, also at Harriet Promontory, where we landed. 
Here Lagard erected a tablet which had been j)revi- 
ously prepared, commemorative of my First Exjiedi- 
tion; and another on which was engraved the names 
of the members of the expedition of 1891. 

Before leaving the promontory we discharged our 
firearms three times, as a j)arting salute to the flag 
which was still flying from the top of the small pine 
to which it had been nailed during our ceremonies at 
that point on tlie twenty-ninth. Our salute was 
responded to by an equal number of rounds on the 
opposite shore. We then re-entered the canoe and 
returned to the encampment. 

Our investigations concluded, and everything being 
ready, tents were struck, outfit put into the canoes, 
and the journey back to Minneapolis begun. Passing 
down the southwestern arm of Itasca to Schoolcraft 
Island, we bore to the right and ascended its south- 
eastern arm to the point wliere we had embarked at 

(381) 



382 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

the time of our arrival at the lake on our way out. 
The teamsters awaited us by appointment, and as soon 
as we had eaten our noonday meal, assisted them in 
loading the wagons. 

So much time had been consumed in the farcAvell 
circuit of Lake Glazier in the morning, and later in 
the forenoon in breaking camp, and our passage 
through Itasca, that it was nearly three o'clock in the 
afternoon when our little column was put in motion 
and the march commenced, which led over the sand- 
hills and through the marshes to Park Eapids. 

We were favored with clear, cool weather through- 
out the afternoon; and it was the intention to reach a 
high and wooded slope, some thirteen miles south of 
Itasca, but owing to the steep and rugged condition 
of the road, or, more correctly speaking, the trail 
which we were following, but little progress was 
made, and at nightfall we had advanced only about 
ten miles. 

The site selected for our encampment was not what 
we could have wished; but in a measure answered the 
requirements, as it was on a hill-side covered w4th 
pines, and in close proximity to a small lake which 
afforded good water for man and beast. Although our 
experience on this ground reminded me more of the 
bivouac than the camp, we named it Camp Horton, 
in honor of our survevor, E. M. Horton, of Park 
Rapids, who had not only faithfully and efficiently 
performed the duties of his position, but had, in many 
ways, rendered himself agreeable to the entire party. 

Before supper was over, our camp-ground was 
enveloped in darkness, and being too much exhausted 
to pitch tents, except one for my daughter, we slept 
under the open sky. 



RETURN TO MINNEAPOLIS. 383 

Although only at the end of August, the night air 
of this elevated region was decidedly chilly, and before 
curling up in our blankets, a large camp-fire was 
built, around which all hands gathered and spent an 
hour in story-telling, and a discussion of the events 
of our sojourn at the Headwaters. The temperature 
fell rapidly as we approached midnight, and we found 
it necessary to draw the tent canvas over our blank- 
ets, and to feed the fire at intervals in order to make 
ourselves sufficiently comfortable for sleep. 

We were on our feet at dawn the next morning, 
and while the cook was preparing breakfast the 
hunters shouldered their fowling-pieces and went in 
pursuit of game. Nothing was bagged, however, 
worthy of notice, which doubtless was due to the 
noise and confusion of the camp — a condition of 
things always unfavorable to the art of the sports- 
man. A few partridges were seen in the underbrush, 
and deer and moose tracks noted along the shore of 
the lake. 

A very noticeable feature of the hill on which 
Camp Horton was situated was the great number of 
red squirrels seen at every turn. Many were observed 
skipping about on the ground; while overhead in the 
trees there seemed to be hundreds of these lively little 
rodents engaged in a general frolic. So striking was 
this peculiarity of our camp-ground that, in referring 
to the locality afterward, most of our party spoke of 
it as ^^ Squirrel Hill.'^ 

Delezene called breakfast at six o'clock, and as soon 
as we had drunk our coffee, the wagons were reloaded 
and the journey continued. The day opened with a 
fair sky at Camp Horton; but the clouds lowered 
early in the forenoon, and, although there was no 




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(384) 



RETURK TO MIKNEAPOLIS. 385 

rainfall, tlie mosquitoes were out in full force, and 
made our tramp anything but agreeable when passing 
through the marshes and lowlands that lay along our 
route. The clouds lifted at ten o'clock, and brought 
us welcome relief from the torment of our persistent 
and sanguinary little enemy. 

Between ten and eleven o'clock we came to a beau- 
tiful expanse of water on the left of the road, which 
we had also seen during our journey out. Leaving the 
column, Crane and Lagard walked down to the lake 
and carefully scrutinized its shores to discover if it 
had an inlet and outlet. They estimated its dimen- 
sions at a mile in length by about three-quarters of a 
mile in width. At its northern end there is a 
wooded island with an area of, perhaps, an acre. Its 
distance from the Source of the Mississippi is about 
sixteen miles. Crane discharged his fowling-piece at 
several ducks that were observed a few feet from the 
shore, but only succeeded in killing one; this Lagard 
secured by wading into the lake, wliich, at that 
point, was shallow, with a sandy bed. At the sug- 
gestion of a member of the party, the lake was named 
in honor of Mr. Crane. 

The stream described in a previous chapter, and 
referred to as Morrison River, was reached in season 
for luncheon, which was eaten on the north bank, 
near the spot where we had taken our first refresh- 
ment in the open air after leaving Park Ra23ids. As 
soon as we had lunched and rested, all mounted the 
wagons except Mr. Trost, who went forward in his 
high rubber boots in order to find a position from 
which to photograph the party while fording the 
stream. Men, horses, wagons, and surroundings i^re- 
sented a picturesque appearance while crossing the 

25 




(386) 



RETURK TO MINNEAPOLIS. 387 

river. Dr. Harrison rode the leader and carried over 
his shoulder the pole which was used to keep '^^ Jerry " 
in position. The remainder of the party were piled 
up in the wagons like so much furniture on moving- 
day. 

Our afternoon tramp was uneventful. A half- 
dozen straggling settler-cabins were seen as we drew 
nearer Park Eapids, the same we had noted on our 
journey out, and at five o'clock we emerged from the 
wilderness and were now wending our way at a more 
rapid gait over the "^^ Shell Prairies'" toward the little 
frontier village we had left on the twenty-second of 
August. The feature of our march from Camp lior- 
ton to Park Eapids, and that which, perhaps, excited 
most comment, was the endurance displayed by my 
daughter, who walked by my side throughout the 
day, without once complaining of fatigue, a distance 
of at least twenty miles, although the road was so 
hilly and rugged in many places as to threaten to pre- 
cipitate horses and wagons, with their loads, to the 
bottom of the declivities. 

A hearty welcome met us at Park Kapids, and it 
was at once apparent that the inhabitants were deeply 
interested in the results of our expedition. We had 
barely re-entered our old quarters at the Central 
House, when several of the leading villagers, headed 
by Dr. Winship, called and plied us with questions 
concerning our journey and explorations. It may 
be explained that, although the Head of the Missis- 
sippi is within fifty miles of their doors, and the 
people feel a special interest in the question of the 
True Source, we found on inquiry that not more 
than two or three had ever ventured to traverse the 
wretched road that leads to it. 




(388) 



RETUKN" TO MINKEAPOLIS. 389 

During the whole of our journey out and back, 
and while making our investigations at the Head of 
the river, we were highly favored by the weather. 
On one occasion only, during the night, a little rain 
fell on our tents, but not enough to inconvenience us, 
and the clouds passed away as the morning dawned. 
Almost immediately on our return to Park Rapids, 
however, a heavy storm crept up from the northwest 
and rain fell in torrents. 

To return to the hour of our arrival at the Central 
House, the first thing thought of by the entire party 
was rest, after the severe jolting we had endured in 
the wagons and the long and trying march over hill 
and dale. Having made our ablutions and donned 
clean linen, a hot supper was placed before us, 
although it was now late in the evening, and Ave 
gladly partook of it before retiring. The supper, I 
may add, consisted, in part, of bear steaks, two of 
these animals having been shot on the outskirts of 
the village the day before our return. As may be 
supposed, bear meat was a novelty to most of the 
party, but, on trial, was generally pronounced a pal- 
atable change after the canned meats, wild fowl, and 
fish of the previous two weeks. 

Our hotel was, unfortunately for us, undergoing 
repair and enlargement; workmen were employed 
throughout the building, and the accommodation,' 
therefore, was not of a luxurious character. The 
walls of the rooms were not plastered, but simply 
lathed, and the floors without carpet or matting. 
There was no furniture whatever, except a bed, and 
no toilet articles. To crown all, there were no doors 
to the rooms, so that, in order to secure a modicum 
of privacy, calico curtains had to be suspended on 



390 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

nails across the open doorways. Moreover, to add to 
our cheerless condition, a strong northerly wind, with 
torrents of rain, had considerably reduced the tem- 
perature, and, although it was early in September, 
the cold was piercing, which made some of our party 
long for a warmer latitude. The absence of the usual 
appliances of a hotel, and consequent discomfort, 
could not justly be charged against our worthy host, 
Ben. Inman, who could hardly have anticipated such 
an influx of patrons while his house was undergoing 
repair, and so we all resolved to make the best of 'it, 
and resume our journey homeward with the least pos- 
sible delay. 

Before proceeding further, I may here add a few 
words concerning the senior member of the expedi- 
tion, Mr. Giles — who, notwithstanding his advanced 
age, bore the journey, both ways, bravely. While at 
the encampment, he kept a diary of every event that 
transpired, and was very enthusiastic in his admira- 
tion of the picturesque and beautiful lake embosomed 
in the dense forest to the south of Itasca. He passed 
over and around it several times, and among other 
piscatorial feats, was successful in landing with his 
trolling-hook a seventeen-pound pickerel — the finest 
catch made by any of the party. By common agree- 
ment he was exempted, on account of his years, from 
the rougher and more fatiguing duties of the survey, 
in which all the others participated. 

Moses Lagard, my old interpreter of 1881, who, it 
has already been stated, came out from Leech Lake 
in search of me, accompanied the party on our way 
back to Park Eapids. He had rendered himself 
extremely useful in many ways, and was always will- 
ing and prompt in the performance of any service re- 



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(391) 



392 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

quired of him. I was very sorry to be obliged to part 
with hini;, and he seemed much affected on leaving us. 

Having rested as much as possible under the 
circumstances^ and having conversed on the fol- 
lowing morning with most of the leading inhabit- 
ants^ we took our leave of them and our friends 
Postmaster Cobb and Dr. Winship; and finally of 
Horton and Keay, of both of whom I can not speak 
too highly. During the time they were with me they 
Avere indefatigable in the discharge of the respon- 
sible duties for which they had been engaged — Mr. 
Horton as a professional surveyor, and Mr. Keay as 
his assistant; and both repeatedly assured me of their 
unqualified belief in my position with reference to 
the True Source of the Mississippi. This testimony 
I value the more highly because they are both quite 
familiar with the region around the Headwaters of 
the river. On parting, they each handed me a written 
document expressing their decided views, and fully 
endorsing all my published statements on the subject. 

On the afternoon of September second, we boarded 
the one o'clock train for Wadena, arriving in the 
evening of the same day, and finding very superior 
accommodations at the Merchants^ Hotel. On our 
journey out, this house was too full to receive our 
large party, which obliged us to seek rest and 
shelter under other roofs. At the " Merchants' ^^ we 
now had supper, bed, and breakfast. J. E. Eeynolds, 
editor of the Wadena Pioneer, called upon me in the 
evening, and we spent an hour in conversation. Mr. 
Eeynolds gave me much valuable information upon 
the early history of tli-e city, and of that section of 
Minnesota. 

The following morning, Mr. Trost, assisted by Mr. 




(393) 



394 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

Shure, took an excellent photograph of the Mer- 
chants^ Hotel, and the little park in front of it, 
While at Wadena, several members of the party sent 
off their dispatches to the press, having prepared them, 
for the most part, while in camp at the Headwaters. 
Mr. Knowlton sent his narrative of the expedition 
to the New York Herald; Mr. Crane to the Boston 
Herald; and others to sundry Eastern papers and the 
Saint Paul and Minneapolis journals. Time allowed 
of our taking a stroll through the jorincipal streets 
of the town in the morning, and we found everything 
wearing an air of prosperity. 

About eight o'clock, we left our agreeable quarters 
at the ^^ Merchants' '^ and boarded a train of the 
Great Northern for Little Falls. The journey was 
attended with no event; but, in the opinion of all, 
the country looked beautiful under the rays of the 
morning sun — the fields under cultivation giving 
promise of an unusually fine harvest. 

Little Falls was reached at eleven o'clock in the 
forenoon; and we at once proceeded to '^^The Antlers," 
a hotel which would do credit to a much larger city. 
I have seldom met a more agreeable man than mine 
host of The Antlers, who very kindly drove me to 
Mayor Eichardson's office, whose acquaintance I had 
made on passing Little Falls on my canoe voyage ten 
years before. His Honor remembered the circum- 
stance, and conversed with me on the subject of my 
second visit to the Headwaters and the results attend- 
ing it. 

In 1881, Little Falls was a straggling village of a 
few hundred inhabitants. In 1891, I found it an 
incorporated city of several thousand. On the occa- 
sion of my first visit, I received a very cordial wel- 



RETUEN TO MIKNEAPOLIS. 395 



« 



come. I must not omit to state, before leaving The 
Antlers, that I found in John E. Sutton, the pro- 
prietor, a comrade who had served with me under 
Custer and Kilpatrick, in the cavalry arm of the 
service, during the Civil War. This unexpected 
meeting of old comrades revived memories of the 
past; but our train was nearly due, and comrade 
Sutton insisted on driving me to the station in his 
carriage. 

My companions were ready and anxious to start, 
and myself not less so, especially as our next point 
was Minneapolis — the beginning and end of the ex- 
pedition. We arrived at the Union Depot at five 
o'clock, and soon dropped back into our old quarters 
on Harmon Place. All were in the enjoyment of 
excellent health, and expressed themselves well satis- 
fied with their rough trip to the Headwaters, and 
with what had been accomplished. They promised 
to submit to me a joint report on the following day, 
which they did, unanimously certifying that the True 
Head of the Mississippi is in the lake designated by 
me in 1881. 

The duties which devolved upon us in our inves- 
tigations at the Source of the Great Kiver having been 
satisfactorily fulfilled, the gentlemen composing the 
party spent a few days in sight-seeing, visiting the 
several beautiful resorts in and around Minneapolis, 
and finally took leave of each other, and departed 
for their respective homes in different States widely 
separated. It affords me much pleasure to add that, 
throughout the trip, although all were strangers to 
each other, the most perfect harmony had prevailed. 




CHAPTEE XII. 

IKDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 



.,N the following day, and several days 
succeeding onr return to Minneapolis, 
the subjoined indorsements were placed 
in my hands, with the exception of 
three received at a later period from 
Park Rapids. This corroborative tes- 
timony is i3resented with a view to 
establishing the fact that every member of my Sec- 
ond Expedition fully confirmed my announcement of 
1881 that the heart-shaped lake lying above, and 
immediately to the south of, Itasca, is the True Source 
of the Mississippi. It may be added that the chief 
reason for introducing these indorsements is found in 
the statements of a few cavilers, who have gratui- 
tously asserted that my companions were divided in 
their conclusions as to the real origin of the Great 
River. In a word, the decision of the party was 
unanimous, as will be clearly seen in the report and 
unsolicited letters given in this chapter. 

E. M. Horton of Park Rapids, to whom allusion 
has been made in previous chapters, and who accom- 
panied the expedition in the capacity of surveyor, 

thus expresses his views: 

Central House, 
Park Rapids, Minnesota, 
September 2, 1891. 
I was engaged by Captain Willard Glazier on August 23, 
1891, to accompany his expedition to the Ilascan Basin for the 
purpose of measuring the streams flowing into Lalie Itasca 
and Lake Glazier; which I did with the following results; 

(396) 



IKDORSEMENT AKD COKCLUSIOH. 397 

Assisted by Oliver S. Keay, I measured all the creeks 
flowing into the southwest arm of Lake Itasca, and those 
emptying into Lake Glazier, and found that Excelsior Creek, 
an affluent of Lake Glazier, is by far the longest feeder, its 
source being 6,799 feet farther from Lake Itasca than the 
source of Nicollet Creek. It is my belief that the Source of 
the Mississippi is in Lake Glazier — the only well-defined body 
of water, beyond Itasca, having a visible connection therewith. 
(Signed) E. M. Horton, 

Surveyor to Second Olazier Expedilion. 

From Oliver S. Keay of Park Rapids: 

Park Rapids, 

September 4, 1891. 
Being familiar Mitli all the lakes, creeks, springs, eleva- 
tions, and depressions in the Itasca and Glazier basins; having 
many times visited the same, and the surrounding country, I 
unhesitatingly affirm that the Glazier Basin is the larger of the 
two. Lake Glazier presents the larger volume of running, or 
living, water; and, from my acquaintance with the Mississippi 
Headwaters, and the adjoining region, I firmly believe that 
Lake Glazier is the Primal Reservoir of the river. All unpreju- 
diced persons who have ever visited the two basins agree that 
the Glazier Lake is the Source of the Mississippi. 
(Signed) Oliver S. Keay, 

Assistant Surveyor. 

From Dr. A. Munsell of Dubuque, Iowa: 

The Waverley, 
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 4, 1891. 
I was one of a party of gentlemen who accompanied Cap- 
tain Willard Glazier to the Headwaters of the Mississippi in 
August, 1891, for the purpose of making a thorough investiga- 
tion of that region, in order to ascertain what was the real 
source of our Great River. From all that I there saw — and in 
accordance with the rule which recognizes the source of a 
river in the remotest living water, and in a lake, if possible — 
I have no hesitation in agreeing with all the other members of 
our expedition that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the 
Mississippi River. 

(Signed) A. Munsell, 

Editor, Dubuque Trade Journal. 

From Pearce Giles of Camden, New Jersey: 

1215 Harmon Place, 
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 4, 1891. 
On August 17, 1891, I left Minneapolis in company with 
Captain Willard Glazier and a party of gentlemen who had 



398 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

volunteered to proceed with him to the Headwaters of the Mis- 
sissippi in Nortliern Minnesota, to ascertain, by investigation, 
wbetlier his claim to have located the True Source of that river 
was entitled to the recognition of geographers. We arrived at 
the Headwaters August 23d, and left September 1st, having 
thus devoted ten days to the duty we had assumed of solving 
the question as to the exact source of the Great River. 
We were ably assisted by Messrs. Horton and Keay of Park 
Rapids, Minnesota, two practical surveyors, having large 
acquaintance with the region; and the affluents of Lakes Itasca 
and Glazier were all, on different days, duly meandered, and 
their length, width, and depth carefully measured. The 
result, as shown by the joint report of the surveyors, con- 
firmed by the gentlemen assisting in the survey, is most con- 
vincing to my mind that Lake Glazier, lying to the south of 
Lake Itasca, and separated from the latter by an elevated ridge 
of land, is unquestionably the True Head of the Mississippi, 
being united to Lake Itasca by a permanently flowing stream 
— the " Infant Mississippi." From what I have personally wit- 
nessed and carefully investigated on the spot, I believe that no 
honest inquirer can arrive at any other conclusion. 

Pearce Giles. 

From Rev. John C. Crane of "West Millbiiry, Mas- 
sachusetts: 

1215 Harmon Place, 
Mlnneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 8, 1891. 
I was a member of the Second Glazier Expedition to the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi in August and September, 
1891, and made a thorough personal investigation of all 
lakes, creeks, and springs around Lakes Itasca and Glazier. 
I was accompanied by the other members of the exploring 
party, and together we traced the feeders of both lakes to 
their origin, The conclusion I have arrived at is forced upon 
me — after laborious efforts to discover the truth — that Lake 
Glazier, lying directly to the south of Itasca, is the real Head 
or Source of the River; and that Lake Itasca is the first 
expansion of the stream after leaving its source in Lake 
Glazier. 

(Signed) John C. Crane, , 

Correspondent of the Boston Herald. 

From D. S. Knowlton, Boston: 

The Waverley, 
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 4, 1891. 
As a member of Captain Glazier's Second Expedi- 
tion to the Headwaters of the Mississippi, in August, 1891, 
I desire to add my testimony to the validity of his 



INDORSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 399 

Claim — that the lake to the south of Itasca, 255 acres 
in extent and 45 feet deep, is the veritable Source of the 
Father of Waters, I made a most careful personal investi- 
gation of the region around the Itasca and Glazier lakes, 
and the latter has unquestionably the strongest claim to 
be considered the Source of the river. Geographers, scien- 
tists, and others will be entirely justified in recognizing and 
designating Lake Glazier as the Ultimate Source of the Mis- 
sissippi. 

(Signed) D. S. Knowlton, 

Editor, Boston Times. 

From Dr. Charles E. Harrison of Davenport, 

Iowa: 

The Waverley, 
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 4, 1891. 
Having been a member of the company of gentlemen who, 
during the month of August, 1891, made a careful investiga- 
tion of the several streams and bodies of water emptying into 
Lake Itasca from the south, I believe that the claim of Cap- 
tain Glazier in locating the Source of the Mississippi River is 
fully justified, and that geographers and others should recog- 
nize the Glazier Lake as its True Head. 

(Signed) C. E. Harrison, 

Davenj)ort Academy of Natural Sciences. 

From Henry R. Cobb of Park Eapids: 

September 2, 1891. 
I accompanied the Glazier expedition to the Headwaters of 
the Mississippi, in the month of August, 1891, and found Lake 
Glazier, to the soutli of Itasca, to be the largest well-defined 
body of water which has any visible connection with the 
Mississippi through Lake Itasca. 

(Signed) Henry R. Cobb, 

Postmaster, Park Rapids. 

From Fred J. Trost of Toledo, Ohio: 

900 Hennepin Avenue, 
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 3, 1891. 
I had the pleasure of being one of a party to accompany 
Captain Glazier to the Headwaters of the Mississippi. I made 
photographs of all the lakes and streams flowing into Lake 
Glazier, and into Lake Itasca; and, from personal observation 
and investigation, I feel perfectly certain that Lake Glazier is 
the True Source of the Mississippi River. 

(Signed) Fred J. Trost, 

Photographer, Second Glazier Expedition. 



400 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

From Albert W. Whitney of Beloit College, Wis- 
consin: 

The Wavekley, 
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 
September 4, 1891. 
Of all the bodies of water at the head of the Mississippi, I 
consider that Lake Glazier fulfills the greatest number of con- 
ditions necessary to make it the Source of that river. 
(Signed) Albert W. Whitney, 

Botanist to Expedition. 

From Winfield Scott Sliiire of York, Pennsylvania: 

900 Hennepin Avenue, 

Minneapolis, Minnesota, 

September 8, 1891. 

I have explored, in company with the other members of 
Captain Glazier's expedition of August and September, 1891, 
all the region within the limits of the Itasca and Glazier 
basins, and certify to the following facts: 

Fivbt. — That there is no other body of water to tlie south 
of Itasca, and tributary to it, that is so large and well defined 
as the fine lake known as Lake Glazier. 

Second. — That the two ponds, called, by some, "Nicollet's 
First and Second lakes," emptying into Lake Itasca, are, in 
their origin, not of sufficient remoteness or importance to be 
considered the source of the Great River; and, consequently, 
have no claim to that distinction. 

Third. — That Lake Glazier, above and beyond Itasca, fed 
by five permanently flowing afliuents, having their sources 
more remote from Itasca than any other feeders falling into 
that lake, is the True Source of the Mississippi. 

(Signed) W. S. Shure. 



COKCLUSIOI^. 

I feel very confident tliat all who are interested in 
the question discussed in Part Third of this volume 
will find ample evidence to sustain the author in his 
claim to have been the first to definitely locate the 
True Head of the Mississippi. As I have said in a 
previous publication, I am well aware that I assume 
grave responsibility in locating the Source of the 
greatest river of North America^ and correcting a 



II^DORSEMEKT AKD CON'CLUSION. . 401 

geographical error of half a century^s standing; 
especially, since I follow in the footsteps of such emi- 
nent explorers as Pike, Cass, Beltrami, Schoolcraft, 
and Nicollet; and in view of the fact that I have pre- 
sumed to pass the limit of their explorations. 

The statement that the lake now generally accepted 
by geographers as the Primal Eeservoir was so re- 
garded prior to the organization of my First Expe- 
dition can not be substantiated; on the contrary, 
both press and people throughout Minnesota were 
ignorant of its importance, or even of its existence, 
so far as we were able to ascertain by diligent inquiry, 
from Winona to Brainerd; and, in fact, I may add, 
that the missionary, Indian agent, and post-trader at 
Leech Lake knew no other source of the Mississippi 
than Lake Itasca, except what they had been told by 
my chief guide, Chenowagesic, and a few other Chip- 
pewas in that vicinity. Barrett C banning Paine, a 
member of my party, fully confirms me in this 
assertion in his letters to the Saint Paul and Minne- 
apolis papers of that period. These letters prove 
most conclusively that the people of Minnesota had 
no knowledge whatever of the lake beyond Itasca, 
until it was announced by us through the medium of 
the press, in 1881. 

I assume that my position, with regard to locating 
the True Source, is precisely the same as that of 
Schoolcraft in connection with Lake Itasca. When 
William Morrison, the fur trader, pitched his tent on 
Schoolcraft Island, in 1804, he was probably not aware 
that the outlet of the lake on which he looked was the 
Mississippi. Schoolcraft followed, at the head of an 
expedition, twenty-eight years later, and claimed the 
lake as the Source of the Great Eiver. It is very 

26 



402 DISCOVERY OF THE TRUE SOURCE. 

generally admitted that Morrison had seen Itasca 
before Schoolcraft, but no one questioned that the 
latter was entitled to the credit of discovery, since he 
was the first to establish the fact that the Mississippi 
was its outlet. 

I do not desire to pass a reasonable limit in my 
effort to establish a geographical truth, but, having 
announced that the lake to the south of Itasca — the 
Pokegama of the Chippewas — is the Ultimate Reser- 
voir, I do not feel disposed to be thrust aside by those 
who know comparatively little or nothing of that 
region. Assuming that the conclusions arrived at by 
every member of both my First and Second expedi- 
tions are incontrovertible, it naturally follows: 

First. — That Lake Itasca can not longer be consid- 
ered as the origin of the Mississippi, for the reason 
that it is the custom, agreeably to the definition of 
geographers, to fix upon the remotest water, and a 
lake, if possible, as the source of a river. 

Second. — That the lake to the south of Itasca, con- 
nected therewith by a perennial stream, is the Primal 
Reservoir, or True Source; that it was not so known 
or recognized prior to the visit of my party in 1881; 
and that we were the first to locate its feeders cor- 
rectly, and establish its true relation to the Great 
River. 

Third. — That Schoolcraft could not have seen the 
lake located by me, else he would have assigned it its 
true character in the narrative of his expedition. 

Fourth. — That Nicollet, who followed Schoolcraft, 
could not have been aware of its existence, as he gives 
it no place upon his map, or description in the account 
of his explorations. 

Fifth. — That Julius Chambers did not see this lake. 



INDOKSEMENT AND CONCLUSION. 403 

as his published statements prove very conclusively 
that he ascended Nicollet Creek to the first pond on 
that stream, and describes a lakelet in a floating bog, 
instead of the large and beautiful lake which is now 
generally regarded as the Source of the Mississippi. 
Finally. — Whatever the verdict upon the merits of 
my claim to have been the first to definitely locate the 
lake beyond Itasca as the Source of the Mississippi, 
and to have published it to the world, it was certainly 
not known to the white inhabitants of Northern Min- 
nesota prior to 1881. Lake Itasca was still recognized 
as the Fountain-head, was so placed upon all maps, 
and taught as such in all the schools. I simply claim 
to have established the fact that there is •&, beautiful 
lake above and beyond Itasca, wider and deeper than 
that lake, with woodland shores, with five constantly 
flowing streams for its feeders, and in every way 
worthy of the position it occupies as the Primal Res- 
ervoir or True Source of the Father of "Waters. 



APPENDIX 



:o: 



CONCERNING 



®ijje ^vxx^ ^oxxvc^ 



OF THE 

MISSISSIPPI. 

BY 
PEARCE GILES, 

MEMBER OF 

Second Glazier Expedition, 
1891. 



APPENDIX. 




HAVE undertaken to prepare an Appendix to 
Captain Glazier's book on the "Headwaters 
OP THE Mississippi." I am well acquainted 
with every detail of his claim to have located 
the Primal Reservoir of that river; have read all 
that he has written upon the subject, and 
much that has been written by others, in favor 
of, and opposed to, his views. I have known 
him intimately for many years; have conversed 
with him frequently upon the subject of his expeditions 
through Northern Minnesota to the True Source of the Great 
River; have journeyed with him over thousands of miles of 
this country; have looked, and floated with him, upon the 
beautiful sheet of water which he asserts and demonstrates is 
the reservoir of the remotest springs of the Mississippi, to 
which his companions, in 1881, gave the name of Lake 
Glazier. I have, with great care, personally investigated 
the grounds upon which he bases his claim; and for these 
reasons I feel competent to lay before the readers of his book 
some material which I trust may be of interest to geographers 
and educators, and to those who have given any attention to 
the ten years of controversy which have followed his announce- 
ment of 1881, that a certain lake, immediately to the south of 
Lake Itasca, is the Fountain-head of the Father of Waters. 



(407) 




(408) 



A. 

riKBT GLAZIER EXPEDITION AND ITS RESULTS. 

In his work, "Down the Great River," Captain Glazier 
clearly explains his motive for projecting his First Expedition 
to the Headwaters of the Mississippi. He therein states that 
he had heard that much uncertainty prevailed on the subject 
of the exact location of its Source, and decided to investigate 
the matter for himself, and for the satisfaction of others who, 
possibly, had less time at their disposal to devote to such an 
inquiry. He was not over-sanguine as to the issue of his 
venture, but little dreamed of the acrimonious and unreason- 
ing opposition and contradiction he was fated subsequently to 
encounter. He believed that he was about to engage in a 
laudable undertaking, the result of which might possibly 
prove of some interest to students of geography and others. 
Hence, he employed his means to attain an object which ap- 
pears to have eluded the efforts of all previous explorers — the 
Source of the Mississippi was still in doubt, although its 
mouth had been known over two hundred years before. This 
was sufficient reason, he thought, for further exploration; and 
possessed of a strong desire to see a part of the country but 
little known, he resolved to organize and equip an expedition, 
proceed to Lake Itasca and investigate its right to the distinc- 
tion long accorded it of standing at the Head of the Mississippi. 

July 4, 1881, Captain Glazier, accompanied by his brother 
George of Chicago, and Barrett Channing Paine of the Saint 
Paul Pioneer Press, boarded a train at Saint Paul, en route to 
the then frontier town of Brainerd, near the boundary of the 
Chippewa Indian Reservation, They reached Brainerd July 
seventh, and remained there five days to complete their com- 
missariat supplies, and make arrangements for a journey 
through the wilderness and a possible detention at the Source 
of the river. Captain Glazier also gathered much information 
at this point concerning the topography of the country, and 

(409> 



410 APPENDIX. 

finally decided to proceed via Leech Lake as a more direct 
course to his destination than that adopted by previous ex- 
plorers, who had passed up the Mississippi through Lakes 
Winnebegoshish, Cass, and Bemidji, a longer and less-inviting 
route. He therefore secured wagon conveyance to Leech 
Lake, distant seventy-five miles from Brainerd, which led 
through an immense forest and jungle of pine and underbrush. 

Leech Lake is a small settlement standing on the banks of 
the lake of that name, and consists of about a dozen Govern- 
ment buildings and log cabins, with several wigwams. It 
was formerly the seat of the Chippewa Indian Agency, which 
is now united with the "White Earth and Red Lake agencies, 
and at the period of Captain Glazier's visit was under the 
superintendence of Major Euffee, as Agent. Captain Glazier 
was fortunate, at this stage of his journey, in securing the 
valuable services of a Chippewa Indian, named Chenowagesic, 
who was well informed concerning the Itascan Basin and the 
region surrounding it. He told the Captain that the country 
around the Headwaters of the Great River had been his hunt- 
ing-ground for many years, and being informed of the wish of 
the party to discover whether Itasca was the Source of the 
river, Chenowagesic declared emphatically that Itasca was not 
the True Head of May-see-see-bee, a fact well known to him- 
self and many Indians who had hunted with him. 

Two other Indians were also engaged at Leech Lake, one as 
interpreter, the other as myageur. The three placed their 
birch canoes at the disposal of the party for use on their jour- 
ney through and across the numerous lakes and streams that 
intervened between Leech Lake and their destination. July 
seventeenth witnessed the departure of the party from the set- 
tlement. An hour's paddling carried them across one of the 
several arms of the lake, and a short portage brought them to 
another arm from fifteen to twenty miles long, crossing which 
they came to the mouth of the Kabekanka River. Guided 
by Chenowagesic, they ascended this stream until a small 
lake or expansion of the river was reached, and ultimately 
a large and picturesque lake, nearly seven miles in length. 
On its banks they pitched tents for the night, and at 
break of day July eighteenth again launched and pushed 
on to the upper end of the lake. Chenowagesic, on being 



APPENDIX. 411 

asked, informed the Captain that the Indians had no name 
for this lake, whereupon he conferred upon it the name of 
"Garfield," in honor of the President. 

Arrived at the head of Lake Garfield, a long portage of 
nearly three miles confronted them. This was accomplished 
by the Indians without the slightest sign of fatigue or discom- 
fort, notwithstanding the heavy packs they bore upon their 
heads and shoulders, including the canoes; but the white men 
suffered much from the intense heat, the roughness of the trail, 
and the mosquitoes, which hovered like a cloud over the low- 
lands. 

Rested and recovered from the tiresome portage of the 
forenoon, they resumed their line of march. Late in the after- 
noon the party reached a series of five lakes — a not unwel- 
come sight after iheir tramp in the broiling sun. Again on 
the water, they passed through three of the lakes, with, neces- 
sarily, intermediate portages, and reaching the fourth, con- 
cluded to encamp for the night. 

At sunrise the following morning they breakfasted, and at 
seven o'clock re-embarked. By ten o'clock the fifth lake was 
entered. Here the guides informed Captain Glazier that these 
lakes had never before been seen by white men. He therefore, 
after consulting with his brother and Mr. Paine, named them 
in the order in which they had been passed — Bayard, Stone- 
man, Pleasanton, Custer, and Kilpatrick, generals who were 
severally his commanding officers during the War of the 
Rebellion. Eight exhausting portages occurred during the 
day, and an equal number of lakes were crossed after leaving 
Lake Kilpatrick. The three largest of the latter received from 
the Captain the names of Gregg, Davies, and Sheridan, dis- 
tinguished cavalry leaders of the Union army. 

One of the most expansive bodies of water, seen between 
Leech Lake and Lake Itasca, had an average width of about 
five miles, and bore an unpronounceable Indian name, signi- 
fying "Blue Snake." To this sheet of water the Captain 
gave the name of his brother George. Lake George was 
crossed, and the canoes conveyed to the highest ground in the 
vicinity. The sun was declining, and, the whole party needing 
rest, tents were again pitched. Early the following morning, 
all eager to reach their destination, and fortified by a good 



412 APPENDIX. 

night's sleep, the canoes were pushed into a fine sheet of 
water named by the Captain Lake Paine, after his companion 
of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press. This lake is only a short dis- 
tance from Lake George, the intervening space being compara- 
tively level, and covered with jack-pines and underbrush. 
Crossing Lake Paine, another portage of half a mile presented 
itself, and the River Naiwa was reached, a stream several 
miles in length. Descending this river a distance of five or 
six miles, they disembarked and portaged in a westerly direc- 
tion, reaching another stream, that appeared to be a favorite 
hauLit for wild fowl, which were very numerous, and seem- 
ingly unaffected by the approach of man. Paddling four 
hours up this stream they came to a lake which Captain 
Glazier believed to be the source of the Eastern Fork of the 
Mississippi. This water was passed over in twenty minutes, 
and the name "Elvira" conferred upon it, in memory of a 
deceased sister of the Captain. 

At the southern end of Lake Elvira, the canoes entered 
its inlet, which flows in a northerly direction, and discharges 
into the main stream originating in Lake Glazier, not far 
from the southern end of Lake Bemidji. It was not laid 
down on the maps, and was named De Soto River by Captain 
Glazier, in honor of the renowned discoverer of the Missis- 
sippi. The day was now drawing to a close, and, nearly 
exhausted by the portages over the roughest region of Minne- 
sota, it was promptly decided to encamp for the night. 

In the morning a heavy fog, rising from a swamp in their 
front, obscured the trail, and the journey could not be resumed 
until seven o'clock. Moving forward in Indian file, they 
rested thirteen times before reaching the shores of Lake Itasca. 
Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon, their eager 
eyes beheld the silvery waters of the lake, and in a few min- 
utes the party were floating on its bosom on their way to 
Schoolcraft Island, near the center of the lake. On this 
solitary isle, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft encamped sixty years 
ago, and believed that in the waters that surrounded him he 
had discovered the long-sought-for Source of the Mississippi, 
This belief he afterward announced to the world, and for over 
fifty years the lake was held, on the authority of Schoolcraft, 
to be the Ultimate Head of the Father of Waters, no one gain- 



APPENDIX. 413 

saying it. This, doubtless, was for the reason tliat very few- 
persons, except Indians, had ever visited it, the region around 
Lake Itasca being well-nigh inaccessible, and entirely so with- 
out a competent guide. 

Schoolcraft Island is about three-quarters of an acre in 
extent, and so densely covered with trees, shrubs, and under- 
growth that the Glazier party found some difficulty in clear- 
ing a space for their tents. The appearance of Itasca and its 
environment of forest lands is highly attractive. It is about 
five miles in length, with an average width of about half a 
mile. Its greatest length is from southeast to northwest. It 
has three arms radiating from its center, somewhat like those 
of a star-fish. One arm points to the southeast, one to the 
southwest, and the remaining one extends northward to the 
outlet of the lake. 

Chenowagesic, perfectly familiar with the region, informed 
the Captain that the name of the lake was Omushkos. School- 
craft himself, in the narrative of his expedition, Chapter 
XXIII, says: 

"I inquired of Ozawindib the Indian name of this lake; lie replied, 
Omushkos, which is the Chippewa name of the Elk. Having previously- 
got an inkling of some of their mythological and necromantic notions 
of the origin and mutations of the country, which permitted the use of 
a female name for it, I denominated it Itasca.'''' 

Having supped and rested on the island, the exploring 
party re-embarked on the morning of the twenty-second, at 
eight o'clock, and began coasting Itasca. Chenowagesic again 
assured the Captain and his companions that he was thoroughly 
acquainted with all the streams, lakes, and ponds within a 
hundred miles, and impressed them with his entire trust- 
worthiness. In coasting the lake they found the outlets of 
six small streams, two only having well-defined mouths, and 
four simply filtering into the lake through swampy ground. 

Reaching the southern extremity of the southwestern arm 
of the lake, the canoes were forced, with some difficulty, 
through a tangled mass of reeds and rushes to the mouth of 
a stream about seven feet wide, but effectually concealed from 
view by dense lake vegetation. Encouraged by their guide, 
the canoes were pointed up this affluent, which was much 
obstructed by fallen trees and occasional sand-bars. These 



414 APPENDIX. 

were, however, removed by the crews, and the boats again 
urged forward. Elevated land appeared on each side of the 
stream, that on their right rising to the dignity of a hill. This 
hill, or ridge, Chenowagesic explained, overhung the Source 
of the Father of Waters toward which they were speeding, 
and which separated it from Itasca. This Indian was an 
exceptionally intelligent man, as well as a faithful guide. The 
object of their search was soon reached — a large sheet of 
smooth, transparent water of surpassing beauty. Afloat on its 
surface, the conviction forced itself upon them that the Source 
of the Mississippi could no longer be a subject of uncertainty. 
The canoes were at once paddled across the lake, a distance of 
nearly two miles, to a promontory at its southern extremity. 

This point of land, with its picturesque shore projecting 
into the lake, gives the latter the shape of a heart, a fitting 
resemblance for the source of the mighty river. Encompassed 
by high ground, thickly clustered and adorned with trees of 
diverse kinds, dominated by the stately Norway pine, the 
waters of this beautiful lake scintillate under the rays of the 
sun, and sparkle like the luster of a million gems. Its broad 
surface is singularly free from that opaqueness which mars the 
beauty of many of the surrounding lakes, including Itasca. 
It is supplied by springs, some in its bed, but two feeders 
were found, on careful investigation, under the guidance of 
Chenowagesic, to originate in sand-hills a few miles to the 
southward, and flowed into the lake on each side of the 
promontory; while a third entered on the northwestern shore 
of the lake. These afliuents, small but significant, were 
named, respectively. Eagle, Excelsior, and Deer creeks. At 
the extreme point, or cape, of the promontory, a spring was 
discovered whose water was deliciously cool. The shores of 
the lake were then investigated. 

Returning to the promontory, the party was called into line, 
and Captain Glazier made a few remarks, expressing his con- 
fident belief that they had found the True Source of the 
Great River, a discovery which had bafiied the attempts of 
previous explorers; and they had therefore added something 
to the geographical knowledge of the country. He dwelt on 
the error of Schoolcraft in assigning this distinction to Lake 
Itasca, which was now clearly seen to be merely the first 



APPENDIX. 416 

expansion of the river, after leaving its source in the lake they 
were looking upon. Chenowagesic had told him that the 
Indian name of this lake was Pokegama, which the interpreter 
explained signified " The Place where the Waters Gather," or, 
in other words, the Primal Reservoir, If such was the case, 
it was unquestionably the Fountain-head, or True Source, 
of the Mississippi. 

At the conclusion of the Captain's remarks, Mr. Paine 
stepped forward and spoke of the justness of his views, in 
which the entire party concurred. He then moved that 
the lake be named GtLazier, in honor of the man whose 
determination and perseverance to learn the truth on a sub- 
ject of so much general interest had successfully accom- 
plished the end he had in view on leaving Saint Paul. The 
motion of Mr. Paine was seconded by the interpreter, Moses 
Lagard, and adopted by acclamation; Captain Glazier, mean- 
while, protesting that he would prefer it should retain its 
descriptive Indian name of Pokegama. 

I may here remark that some of Captain Glazier's critics 
have recently applied the term ' ' Elk " to this sheet of water, 
a name which, according to Schoolcraft, as we have seen, was 
the aboriginal designation of Lake Itasca. Lake Glazier is 
entirely disconnected with Itasca, the two lakes being sepa- 
rated by a high ridge and perfectly independent of each 
other. A perennial stream at the foot of the ridge, up which 
tbe party ascended in their canoes, and to which the name of 
"Infant Mississippi" has been appropriately given, carries the 
waters of the upper lake to its lower neighbor, on its long 
route to the Gulf of Mexico. Thus the lake above Itasca is 
in no sense a part of Itasca, and to call it "Elk" Lake is an 
anomaly, and an unworthy evasion, a perversion of scientific 
accuracy, misleading to the student, and, in short, a geograph- 
ical blunder. Itasca has been "Elk Lake" from time 
immemorial, according to Indian tradition; while Pokegama, 
since 1881, has been popularly transmuted into "Lake 
Glazier." 

This lake, which proved to be the Primal Reservoir, or Ulti- 
mate Head, of the Mississippi, was found by measurement to 
cover an area of 255 acres, with an average depth of forty- 
five feet. The results of the First Glazier Expedition were 



416 APPEN'DIX. 

SO far satisfactory that, on their announcement to the public 
through the press, geographers, instructors, and educational 
publishers were unanimous in their acceptance of the Glazier 
claim, and a change was forthwith made in all maps of the 
State of Minnesota. 

Some of the opponents of Captain Glazier's published views 
on the subject have of late maintained that Schoolcraft visited 
!he lake above Itasca in 1832, and Nicollet in 1836. There is 
not a word in the "Narrative" of the former to indicate that 
he went south of the island which bears his name. All the 
evidence points in the opposite direction, and it must be clear 
to the careful reader that he remained on the island only a few 
hours. He says he was hurried, having an appointment to 
meet certain Indians in council at the mouth of Crow "Wing 
River. His map of Lake Itasca does not show the lake to the 
south of it. Hence it is presumable that he could not have 
coasted Itasca for its feeders, which, to have been effectually 
accomplished, would have occupied him an entire day at least. 
Even if he had done so, the strong probability is that, being 
hurried, he would not have found the concealed entrance to the 
stream which led to the lake beyond. Captain Glazier admits 
that he was largely indebted to his chief guide, and that had 
it not been for Chenowagesic he would possibly never have 
discovered the mouth of this important affluent. The time 
allotted himself by Schoolcraft, as indicated in his " Narra- 
tive," would not have allowed him to ascend the southwestern 
arm of Itasca, much less so to pass up the creek to the impor- 
tant lake beyond it. The conclusion to be drawn from his 
' ' Narrative " is, that he was only between two and three hours 
within the Itascan Basin, and, in his eagerness to depart on his 
mission to Crow Wing River, he not improbably relied upon 
his guide, Ozawindib, for whatever knowledge he obtained of 
Lake Itasca and its surroundings. 

If Nicollet saw the Source of the Mississippi, he certainly 
failed to describe it. He shows on his map only the creek 
which enters the southern end of Itasca and the ponds 
through which it passes on to the lake. He doubtless ascended 
thfs creek, but the more important stream entering the lake 
on his left escaped his view, as it would that of ninety-nine 
persons out of a hundred. If he had ascended this affluent 



APPEiTDIX. 417 

of Itasca, he would at once have discovered that Schoolcraft 
was in error, that Itasca was not the Source of the Mississippi 
River, and his map would have been differently constructed. 
The mouth of the inlet that led to the True Source was doubt- 
less hidden then, as now, by a mass of lake vegetation, which 
so concealed it from view that in 1881 even Chenowagesic had 
difficulty in finding it. I therefore reasonably conclude that 
Nicollet, like his predecessor, was deceived in assuming Itasca 
to be the Source of the Mississippi, the logical inference being 
that he never saw the beautiful lake to the south of it. 

In 1872, Lake Itasca was visited by Julius Chambers, Mr, 
Chambers, during his summer vacation, was not an explorer, 
but a tourist on pleasure bent, and paddled his canoe on Lake 
Itasca up to its southern end. Here he discovered the mouth 
of a creek wide enough to admit his canoe, and, ascending 
it, came to a pond or expansion of the creek. Believing he had 
entered an important feeder of the river's source, or rather, as 
he terms it in a dispatch to the New York Herald, the Source 
itself of " the longest river in the world — a small lake, scarcely 
a quarter of a mile in diameter, in the midst of a floating 
bog." 

Having myself visited the Headwaters of the Mississippi in 
the summer of 1891, I became thoroughly convinced, after 
careful personal investigation, that the Primal Reservoir of 
the Great River is a body of water lying to the south of Lake 
Itasca, nearly two miles in diameter, and that there is not 
the faintest shadow of a bog or morass within at least a 
mile of it. Its basin is secluded — an elevated ridge dividing 
it from Itasca — and the surrounding shores are high, and 
crowned with a dense growth of timber. Mr. Chambers' 
description of his boggy pond on Nicollet Creek is proof 
sufficient to me that he, in common with Schoolcraft and 
Nicollet, made a serious mistake. The genesis of the " long- 
est river in the world," or, if not the longest, the finest, is 
not in a " floating bog, a quarter of a mile in diameter," but 
has a much nobler origin. It is to be hoped that Mr. Chambers 
will pay another visit to Lake Itasca, and correct his error. 

The Government survey of 1875 doubtless saw the True 
Source of the river, but did little beyond measuring its 
area. This was a portion of their duty, as the lake exceeded 
27 



418 APPENDIX. 

forty acres in extent. They did not trouble tliemselves about 
its relation to Lake Itasca or to the Mississippi, nor did they 
give much attention to its feeders, for had they done so, they 
would not have shown on their map an important feeder of 
Lake Glazier as an affluent of Lake Itasca, thus depriving tlie 
former of one of its credentials to the distinction claimed for 
it, and adding to the importance of the latter. Had they pos- 
sessed the instincts of geographers or explorers, they would 
have discovered and reported to their chief at Washington 
that the large lake above and beyond Itasca was the True Head 
of the Mississippi, and thus forestalled the explorer of 1881,- 
who discovered and announced this important geographical 
fact to the country. 

Hopewell Clarke, a professional surveyor, who was sent out 
to investigate and report upon Captain Glazier's explorations, 
confesses that the Government survey of 1875 had made mis- 
takes^ and excuses their inaccuracies in these words: " Errors 
will creep into their work ; but when we take into consideration 
the difficulties they had to contend with, it is not to be won- 
dered at." Had the members of this survey of 1875 conducted 
their investigations with a view to the location of the Source 
of the Mississippi, and had they traced the affluents of this 
lake to their springs, they would have been satisfied that it 
was the Source of the Great River, and not simply a feeder 
of Lake Itasca; that its size, and position entitled it to more 
consideration than they were inclined to give it. 

The result of Captain Glazier's First Expedition was the 
discovery that Lake Itasca could not — with any regard to 
geographical accuracy — be considered the Source of the 
Mississippi, as was taught in all geographies and maps prior to 
1881 — the period of his visit and discovery; but that the fine 
body of water above it, the Pokegama of the Indians, was 
unquestionably the Primal Reservoir and Head of the 
river; a truth now generally recognized by geographers, 
encyclopaedists, instructors, and map publishers, and contro- 
verted by only a few quibblers, who have not themselves 
visited the region, and hence are essentially unqualified to pro- 
nounce judgment in the matter. 

Schoolcraft and Nicollet are worthy of the greatest honor 
for their persevering efforts to reach the Source, and if they 



APPEI^DIX. 419 

failed in the accomplishment of that object, it is no more than 
many other distinguished explorers have done, in attempts to 
find the springs of other great rivers. All knowledge is pro- 
gressive, and geography, in common with history, is open to 
correction as time rolls on. The beliefs of centuries are some 
times proved to be without foundation, and are cast aside for 
the results of modern research. The explorations of intrepid 
pioneers and travelers are yearly adding to our knowledge of 
the earth, and if the labors of one intelligent and zealous 
American, with time and means at his command, have resulted 
in a discovery that those who preceded him in the same line 
of investigation were in error in their conclusions, shall it 
be said, in this enlightened day, that he is not justified in 
declaring his discovery because a few cavilers affect to dis- 
credit him ? 



B. 

CRITICS AI^D CAVILERS. 

The controversy concerning the Source of the Mississippi 
has been confined to an extremely limited circle. Certain 
critics and cavilers, more or less given to raising objections 
when a new exposition of an old theory is advanced — 
especially if the propounder is not of their caste — have con- 
troverted the truth of Captain Glazier's account of his dis- 
covery, and challenged him to produce proof of his positive 
assertions: (1) That Lake Itasca possesses no rightful claim to 
be considered the Source of the Mississippi; and (2) that the 
True Source of that river is in a comparatively large lake 
immediately to the south of Itasca, and above it. These are 
the points in dispute, and the first proposition is, of course, a 
corollary of the second. 

Captain Glazier has repeatedly presented his proofs 
through the press, and has answered the challenge of his 
opponents by inviting them to accompany him to the Head- 
waters of the river and investigate aud judge for themselves, 
volunteering to defray half the expense incurred. This offer 
they have not accepted, but replied by sending out a person, 
independently, to represent them, a man who, before setting 
forth on his mission, paraded in public his determination to 
support his employers. This offensive display of partisan- 
ship in the sacred cause of science passed unreproved by the 
critics of Captain Glazier, but was not unheeded by his 
friends. The party referred to proceeded on his mercenary 
errand, and has since published a report which for subter- 
fuge, evasiveness, and moral obliquity has seldom been 
equaled. It was, however, indorsed and published with the 
sanction of his patrons. But the words of the report were no 
index to the writer's mind. He had looked upon the True 
Source of the Mississippi if his patrons had not, and could 
not be otherwise than mentall}^ assured of the truth and 

(420) 



APPEN'DIX. 421 

scrupulous correctness of the Glazier position. He returned 
to his employers — and denied it! There was little fear of 
their discovering his duplicity, even if they had wished to do 
so. The spot is very difficult of access, as I have shown. He 
plausibly pointed to other lakes, ponds, and streams, and 
while admitting that none of them had any visible connection 
with Lake Itasca or the Mississippi, suggested that probably 
the connection was underground ! He knew it was the wish 
of those who had been instrumental in sending him to the 
Headwaters that he should not return and support the views 
of Captain Glazier, which views they had previously, in their 
wisdom, denounced as "fraudulent," and their propounder a 
"charlatan." They were apparently confirmed in their mis- 
taken belief that Lake Itasca was the Source of the Mississippi. 
Not so, however, the press and the public. The sentiment 
was widely expressed that Captain Glazier was not being 
fairly treated, and the people, prompt to detect and denounce 
injustice, made their views known, not only in the North- 
western press, but throughout the country. I will here sub- 
join a few examples of these views, of which I have hundreds 
in my possession. 

A correspondent at Worcester, Massachusetts, writes to a 
Saint Paul daily, in March, 1886: 

In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier brought to the notice of the people of 
this and other countries that beyond Itasca lay the Source of the Great 
River. . . . Let the men stand up and be counted who, prior to 1881, 
declared that the lake now named Lake Glazier was the source of the 
great stream flowing through the nation's heart. Let yoiu" correspond- 
ent, " Somebody who Knows,'" furnish the names of these men. . . . 
Is Lake Glazier the source of the river? That is the question. School- 
craft says, " Geographers deem that branch of a river as its true source 
which originates at the remotest distance from its mouth." Glazier 
says, " It is the custom of geographers to fix upon the remotest water, 
and a lake if possible, as the source of a river."" In 1881, he claimed the 
lake in question as the True Source. Let the proposition lately made by 
him [the offer to defray half the expense of an authorized expedition to 
decide the question] be accepted in good faith, and his claim stand or 
fall on its merits. ... As long ago as 1858, the doubt existed as to 
Itasca being the True Head. ... A great claim is made by Captain 
Glazier; let his claim be met in a spirit of fairness on the part of all 
concerned; let the verdict be true, free from prejudice, and lasting. 

Fair Play. 



422 APPENDIX. 

A writer in the Buffalo Courier^ in November, 1886, took 
issue with that journal regarding the discovery of the Missis- 
sippi's source: 

Editor of the Courier: 

lu your issue of September 19th. there appears a short article dealing 
"blows without gloves'" at Captain Willard Glazier's "'pretensions'" to 
having discovered the True Source of the Mississippi in a lake to the 
south of Itasca. The article appears to have been inspired by a corre- 
spondent of Science, who objected to Captain Glazier's claim on grounds 
which I propose to analyze. The correspondent of Science begins by 
asserting that Glazier gave his own name to the lake he discovered, 
which is an error, originated, probably, by some caviler, jealous that any 
man should presume to make a discovery who was not officially author- 
ized to do so. One of Captain Glazier's companions, in an article to the 
Saint Paul Pioneer Press, after describing the discovery of the new lake, 
writes: 

" On its one promontory our party landed. After exploring its shores 
and being marshaled in line, Captain Glazier made a few remarks 
appropriate to the discovery of the True Source of the Father of Waters, 
and then the question of a name for the new lake arose. This being left 
for the Captain's companions to decide, Barrett Channing Paine of 
Indianapolis, after alluding in warm terms to the time, money, and 
energy expended by Captain Glazier in the expedition, proposed that it 
be named Lake Glazier in his honor. The proposition was received 
with applause and carried by acclamation.'" 

Thus, we see, Captain Glazier did not " give his own name " to the lake. 
He, on the contrary, we are told, suggested and urged that it should 
retain its Indian appellation of Pokegama. 

There is nothing to be found in Schoolcraft's narrative of his expe- 
dition to show that he penetrated south of Lake Itasca. He speaks of 
an inlet to Itasca leading from a smaller lake to the south, but clearly 
did not visit the smaller lake, and hence did not " discover " it. Nor was 
it known to exist by Nicollet, who came after him. The latter explorer 
says that there are five creeks flowing into Itasca. Captain Glazier dis- 
covered six, the sixth originating in a lake (not a lakelet) a short distance 
to the south of Itasca. This lake was not known to Nicollet. It lies nearly 
due south of the southwestern arm of Itasca. He visited the others, 
which are mere ponds in comparison, but missed the most important one, 
probably owing to difficulty of access, its inlet to Lake Itasca being com- 
pletely hidden by the densest lake vegetation. Such an inlet would prob- 
ably not have been discovered by the Glazier party but for the informa- 
tion of the Indian guide, whose hunting-ground was in the immediate 
neighborhood. The " Infant Mississippi " flows from this lake, through 
which Captain Glazier and his companions forced their way under the 
guidance of Chenowagesic. The lakelets, or ponds, shown on Nicollet's 
map have nothing to do with the source of the river; and the map itself, 
so far as Lake Itasca and its region are concerned, is altogether mislead- 



APPENDIX. 423 

ing. Itasca has three arms, or bays, not two, as shown on Nicollet's 
map. Ax Old Geographer. 

George F. Cram of Chicago, well known throughout the 
country as a leading map and atlas publisher, writes, under 
date December 4, 1886: 

" There is no question in my mind but that the Source of the Missis- 
sippi is not in Lake Itasca, as we have hitherto been taught, but in a 
lake immediately to the south of it. The question of the discovery of 
this lake, which wiU probably prove to be the True Source, is the subject 
of a warm contest between Captain Glazier and some school-book pub- 
lishers who seem to have interests inimical to his. Whatever name may 
be conferred upon this lake will be determined after these gentlemen have 
become reconciled, but the question of the source of the Mississippi 1 
think may be considered absolutely settled, and Lake Itasca must lose 
its reputation for being the Head of that important stream.'' 

A correspondent at Providence, Rhode Island, wrote to 
the Boston Herald under date October, 1886, in response to a 
criticism by Russell Hinman of Cincinnati. Mr. Hinman was 
at the time, I believe, connected with an educational publish- 
ing house in that city in the capacity of geographer, and, in his 
letter to the Boston Herald, very confidently denied that the 
claim of Captain Glazier to have located the True Source of 
the Mississippi had any foundation in fact. It will be under- 
stood by the intelligent reader that if the Glazier discovery 
proved to be correct, it would necessitate an alteration in some 
of the geographical publications of his firm. Hence, possibly, 
the denial, which also occurred in a similar instance in New 
York: 

To the Editor of the Boston Herald: 

In a recent issue of your paper appears a letter signed " Russell 
Hinman," to which my attention has only just been drawn. Mr. Hinman 
writes in the authoritative style of an explorer who has a personal 
knowledge of the region to which he refers, namely, that around the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi. If, however, as I suspect, your corre- 
spondent is simply a " carpet knight,'" and gathered his information from 
sources open to all of us, his tone of authority is, I think, somewhat 
misplaced. I propose to meet the gentleman's second-hand informa- 
tion with that derived from direct personal knowledge of the subject 
in debate, and to advance only that which I know to be fact. 

For years Lake Itasca has been regarded both by geographers and 
map makers, as well as by the public generally, as the Source of one of 
the greatest rivers of the world— the Mississippi. ... 

No injustice is done to the memory of the two early explorers of the 



424 APPEliTDIX. 

Northwest, Schoolcraft and Nicollet, in the statement that, notwithstand- 
ing their many valuable additions to the geographical knowledge of 
Northern Minnesota, their explorations did not extend to the discovery 
of the True Source of the Mississippi . Schoolcraft believed it to be Lake 
Itasca, and Nicollet confirmed him in this error. Glazier, in July, 1881, 
started for this lake, and learned, upon diligent inquiry at the Govern- 
ment agency at Leech Lake, that the dense forests that surround the 
Source of the Father of "Waters had never been traversed by white men 
since the visit of Nicollet in 1834, or even by Indians at any time except 
in winter, when lakes and rivers were frozen up and the whole surface of 
the country covered with a mantle of snow. He also learned through the 
guides and interpreters who accompanied him that the Indians of these 
primeval forests did not regard Itasca as the Source of the river; but, 
while rejecting it, differed among themselves as to what lake really was 
the Fountain-head. 

Captain Glazier determined to thoroughly examine all this region 
and to locate definitely and forever its True Source. In accordance with 
this design, he pushed on toward Lake Itasca, intending to make it a 
starting point for further exploration. Reaching this point, he and his 
little party camped on Schoolcraft Island, and, after a night's rest, he 
directed operations toward the lakes and streams of the surrounding 
country. He closely examined the shores of Lake Itasca for tributary 
streams, finding but three of any importance. Of these, by far the 
largest came in at the southern end of the lake, at a point where it is 
nearly filled with bulrushes and other thick vegetable growth. 

Taking two canoes, Glazier ascended this stream, which, though 
shallow, is rapid, yet so narrow in places that to jump across it would be 
an easy task. Following its windings, he entered what appeared to be a 
lakelet filled with rushes. Pushing through this, however, the canoes 
finally glided out upon the still surface of a beautiful lake, clear as crys- 
tal, with iDebbly bottom, and shores covered with a thick growth of pine. 
This lake is formed irregularly in the shape of a heart, having but one 
marked promontory. Captain Glazier measured the length of the 
lake, and found it to be over a mile and a half, and its width a little 
less. He found that this lake was supplied by three feeders, which rose 
in sand hills a few miles from the lake, and, after a thorough examina- 
tion, became convinced that this beautiful sheet of water was in reality 
the Source, or Primal Reservoir, of the mighty river. "Without much dis- 
cussion, the members of the party decided unanimously to name it Lake 
Glazier, in his honor. This is a brief summary of the proceedings of 
the Glazier expedition, so far as concerns the discovery. 

Your correspondent states that the existence of such a tributary lake 
to Lake Itasca has been known for more than half a century. I reply 
that the lake indicated on Schoolcraft's map, published in 1834, and on 
NicoUet's map, published in 1838, is not the lake referred to by Glazier, 
or it would have been at once designated as the Source of the Mississippi. 
If its existence was known, why was it not so designated? The lake is 
not quite so long as Itasca, but is considerably wider and much 
deeper, and the stream that imites it with the latter is perennial, and 



APPEITDIX. 425 

wide enough and deep enough for the passage of canoes. Surely, if this 
water had been known to previous explorers, they would have pro- 
nounced it, as Glazier has done, the Source of the Mississippi. Of the 
three feeders to the Glazier lake, one enters it from the west, which has 
its source in a lakelet named " Alice.'" This feeder is shown on the Land- 
office map as entering Lake Itasca, which is an error. It enters the 
Glazier lake at its northern extremity, and of this Captain Glazier fully 
satisfied himself. Lake Alice lies farther to the south than Lake Glazier, 
and if the stream issuing from it debouched in Itasca, it would be 
the veritable source of the river. But it is simply a feeder of the Glazier 
lake, and hence is entitled to less considei'ation. 

It is claimed for Lake Glazier that it is the True Source of the Great 
River, and that if it had been visited by the two eminent exploiters who 
preceded Willard Glazier, they would have so recognized and named it. 
That they failed to do so is conclusive proof that they never saw^ it. 

Explorer. 

A leading paper of Minneapolis copied the following letter 
addressed to a Philadelphia daily, in response to two of Cap- 
tain Glazier's opponents, in which the writer expounds his 
views upon the Glazier claim, and criticises Ihe critics: 

Editor Philadelphia Times: 

In an article in Science, of a recent date, Henry D. Hari'ower of New 
York expresses himself thus: " It is evident that Captain Glazier thinks 
he was the first white man to visit Elk Lake.'' 

Captain Glazier did visit the lake to which the above misnomer is 
applied, and every other lake and pond in the vicinity of Lake Itasca; and 
claims to have been the first to locate a body of water to the south of 
Itasca, and tributary to the latter, which had not been recognized by any 
geographical authority as the Source of the Mississippi prior to the 
summer of 1881— the date of his visit. This lake is the one referred to by 
Barrett Channing Paine, a member of the expedition, in the extract 
given by Mr. Harrower in Science. . . . Let me here ask, is it not 
somewhat strange that many of the most prominent geographers and 
map publishers of the country, who, it is to be presumed, have access to 
the latest and most reliable authorities, should have accepted the Glazier 
claim, and changed their maps in accordance therewith, if they had not, 
after due investigation, been fully satisfied of its genuineness and 
accuracy? This circumstance alone, in the opinion of many, is almost 
sufficient to establish Captain Glazier's title, when we take into 
consideration the fact that exactness is a sine qua non in a modern 
map. . . . By actual measurement. Lake Glazier w'as found to be over 
a mile and a half long and nearly as wide, with an average depth of forty- 
five feet, which is deeper than any part of Itasca. 

There appears to be on the part of Mr. Harrower, and a previous cor- 
respondent of Science, Russell Hinman of Cincinnati, for some occult 
reason, a disposition to belittle the undertaking of the Glazier party. 



426 APPENDIX. 

It was, it is true, simply a private expedition led by an American citizen 
whose antecedents as a cavalry officer throughout the war for the 
Union, and since as a popular writer, should, I venture to think, have 
some weight in the balance where mere credibility is the question at 
issue. He was not a mere theorist, but an actual explorer, and, as 
such, his testimony is as worthy of credit as that of any other explorer, 
especially when confirmed by the intelligent gentlemen who accompanied 
him. He was not authorized by the Government to proceed to the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi ; and the joui'ney was certainly not made 
in his own financial interest, as it cost him a considerable sum of 
money to accomplish it. The expedition appears to have been organized 
solely in the interest of correct knowledge upon a geographical question 
of some importance. He ti^aveled over a country which, according to 
the best authorities he had access to, had never before been trodden by 
white men, namely, that between Leech Lake and Lake Itasca. In doing 
so, he discovered a chain of lakes and streams that was not known to 
exist by any authority he consulted. These he named after distinguished 
American soldiers and statesmen. Ultimately, he made his way to a 
lake a short distance south of Itasca, of respectable proportions, which, 
from all the information he could gather, had never before been known 
or recognized as the Head of the Great River. If Messrs. Harrower and 
Hinman had traveled over the same ground, they would be better quali- 
fied to pass judgment upon the accoimt given by this intrepid explorer. 
Before concluding, I may be permitted to state that according to 
Schoolcraft the name "Elk Lake" is that by which Lake Itasca was 
known to the Indians, and is still known to them, and, according to the 
testimony of Captain Glazier's guides, this name lias never been applied 
by them to any other lake in the vicinity. The lake located by Captain 
Glazier as the True Source is known as Pokegavia bj'- the Chippewas, 
meaning "The Place where the "Waters Gather"; and this lake is, Avith- 
out the shadow of a doubt, the Primal Reservoir of the mighty 
Mississippi. Investigator. 

In January, 1887, the Minneapolis Journal published the 
subjoined letter in advocacy of Captain Glazier's claim: 

Editor Minneapolis Journal: 

The liberal spirit in which you have treated the controversy between 
Captain Glazier and his critics on the subject of the Source of the 
Mississippi, leads me to place at your disposal certain facts within my 
knowledge, in connection with the mooted question. 

On what ground do his numerous supporters lay claim that Captain 
Glazier discovered the True Source of the Great River that divides our 
continent? At the period of his visit to Lake Itasca and the surrounding 
region, July, 1881, he made diligent inquiry upon every matter that bore 
upon the question — whether Lake Itasca was the Source of the Missis- 
sippi. He then proceeded to Itasca, via Leech Lake, and found a beauti- 
ful lake to the south of it, which, after a careful survey, he discovered 
to be the undoubted Source of the mighty river, connected; as it was, 



APPEI^DIX. 427 

by a permanent stream with Lake Itasca. As such he located it, and 
his name was g'.ven to it by the companions of his expedition. 

Here let me observe, that while William Morrison, in 1804, was prob- 
ably the first white man who saw Lake Itasca, no one has ever credited 
him with the discovery of the Source of the Mississippi. In fact, he knew 
nothing about its relation to that river. He was not an explorer, but a 
fur trader. Had he known that the Mississippi was an outlet of Itasca, 
he, and not Schoolcraft, would have been recognized all these years as 
the discoverer of that lake. On precisely the same ground, others may 
have seen the lake to the south of Itasca before Captain Glazier, but it 
is fuUy admitted that no one who preceded him to that region had 
assigned it its true character, nor properly placed its feeders. With refer- 
ence to the latter feature of the subject in dispute, it has hitherto been 
erroneously supposed that the lakelet to the southwest of Lake 
Glazier, shown as Lake Alice on Glazier's large map, empties into the 
southern extremity of Lake Itasca, instead of into the northwestern part 
of Lake Glazier. This makes all the difference in the world, and proves 
that the Government surveyors, in running their parallels, faUed to trace 
this stream to its outlet. If it could be established that the creek from 
Lake Alice debouched in Lake Itasca instead of Lake Glazier, then Cap- 
tain Glazier and his friends would at once relinquish his claim to have 
located the Primal Reservoir, or True Som'ce, of the Mississippi. But his 
knowledge of this feeder is based upon actual investigation, and he 
knows to a certainty that the lake beyond and above Itasca has at least 
three feeders instead of two, as shown on the Laud-ofiflce map. On this 
ground alone he is entitled to the credit, not only of estabhshing the fact 
of the existence of a new, and hitherto unrecognized. Source of the Mis- 
sissippi, but of proving conclusively that an important feeder is the out- 
let of a lakelet which has hitherto been misrepresented on the Govern- 
ment maps as falling into Lake Itasca. . . . 

Geographer. 

Apropos of the controversy between Captain Glazier and 
some members of llie Minnesota Historical Society, the Saint 
Paul Olohe, the leading Democratic journal of Minnesota, has 
the following paragraph: 

" Captain Glazier makes a fair proposition for the settlement of the 
conti'oversy between himself and the State Historical Society. He pro- 
poses a commission of three members, one to be selected by the 
Minnesota Historical Society, one by himself, and the third by the 
American Geographical Society, to investigate the matter in dispute by 
making a tour of exploration to the upper waters of the Mississippi, and 
settle forever the quarrel about its Source. He fm'ther offers to defray 
one-half of all the expenses of the expedition." 

The Chicago Times, in the subjoined notice of Captain 
Glazier's last work, "Down the Great River," gives a succinct 
but interesting account of the discovery of the True Source, 



428 APPENDIX. 

in which the writer evinces a thorougli recognition and 

appreciation of the Captain's labors: 

" A most interesting portion of Captain Glazier's ' Down the Great 
River ' is the beginning, wliere the author gives the details of an expedi- 
tion made in July, 1881, by himself, with five companions, when he 
claims, with good grounds, to have fixed the actual Som'ce of the 
Great River. His attention was called, in 1876, to the fact that, 
though everybody knows the mouth of the stream, there was then much 
uncertainty about its Source. In 1881, he found time to organize the 
expedition named, and crossing the country to Itasca embarked in his 
canoes, and pushed through that lake up a stream flowing into it, and 
came upon another considerable body of water, fed by three principal 
streams, originating in springs at the foot of a range of hills some miles 
farther on. This lake he fixed upon as the True Source, and since his 
published accoimts most of the geographers and map makers have 
modified their works according to his discoveries. . . . He claims 
to have been the first to discover and establish the fact that it is the 
highest link in a chain in which Itasca is another; or, in other words, the 
True Head of the river. The In4ian name of the lake is Pokegama, and 
this Captain Glazier says he would have retained, but was overruled by 
the other members, who insisted on calling it Lake Glazier. . . ." 

On February 9, 1887, the State Historical Society, at Saint 
Paul, is reported to have met and passed certain resolutions, 
after listening to the reading of a paper by General James H. 
Baker on the " Source of the Mississippi." 

It may be safely assumed that the gallant general knew 
more of army tactics than he knew personally of the Source 
of the Great River, and about as much of the latter as was 
possessed by his otherwise intelligent audience, who were said 
to have unanimously (?) passed his cut-and-dried resolutions. 
It is not known that General Baker — at the date of the meeting 
called to suppress Captain Glazier — had ever been within three 
hundred miles of the Source of the river, and his inflated res- 
olutions had doubtless, in the absence of personal knowledge 
of his subject, been based upon information derived from 
writers whose acquaintance with the True Source was on a 
level with his own and that of the Minnesota Historical 
Society generally. This learned society innocently believed 
at the time that no body of water existed beyond Lake Itasca 
that was tributary to it— ergo, that Itasca was the Source of 
the Mississippi. 

The tone of the resolutions submitted to the meeting is 
almost beneath criticism; indeed, they bristle with low scur- 



APPENDIX. 429 

rility. They were of a character to convince any moderately 
informed persou, first, that the chairman knew nothing of the 
Source of the Mississippi, and secondly, that for some unknown 
reason he was animated by an intense dislike of Captain 
Glazier, two qualifications that presumably fitted him for the 
chairmanship of such a meeting. The dignity, elegance of 
diction, and suamiy of these resolutions were on a par with the 
treatment Captain Glazier has generally met with from a few 
members of this Historical Society, who affect to think and act 
for it as a body. 

At the meeting referred to, Captain Glazier's younger 
brother was present, and after the reading of the resolutions 
respectfully requested to be heard. He naturally objected to 
the offensive epithets which had been heaped upon his brother, 
but was peremptorily called to order by Chairman Baker, and 
not permitted to proceed. A "corporal's guard" of the 
audience passed the resolutions, while the feeling of the 
majority was in marked sympathy with young Glazier, who 
simply attempted to defend his brother from the foul 
aspersions cast upon him by the self-satisfied clique on the 
platform. A n influential member of the society, from whom 
one would have expected something more refined than the 
language of a cow-boy, excitedly called him a liar! A dis- 
graceful scene ensued in the hall of this eminently learned 
society, whose motto, evidently, is not audi alteram x)CiTtem. 

The first of the resolutions read to the meeting was in these 
words: 

" We hereby express, as the deliberate judgment of this society, that 
the assertions and assumxMons of said Glazier are baseless and false/'' 

By this ' ' society " must be understood some three or four 
of its officious members who pose as the " society," and their 
"deliberate judgment" meant simply a determination on 
their part to suppress Captain Glazier, if possible, for no 
better reason than that he was not a resident of Minnesota, 
but of New York. What could a New Yorker know about 
the Source of the Mississippi? They would have no outsiders 
come to their State and expose their ignorance to the world 
by pretending to have discovered that the Source of their mag- 
nificent river was not in the sacred Itasca of the renowned 



430 APPEI^^DIX. 

Schoolcraft. Right or wrong, Glazier must be silenced, and 
restricted from promulgating his heresy.* 

'■'The assertions and assumptions of said Olazier are baseless 
and false," quoth General Baker and his obsequious satellites. 
This clause of the resolution, couched in the peculiar language 
of a society whose supposed aim is to educate and refine the 
people of the State, is, however, a harmless thunderbolt, and 
may be answered in two words, '' Prove it! " I venture to 
aflSrm from my own personal knowledge that " the assertions 
and assumptions of said Glazier" were neither "baseless" 
nor " false," but as well founded and true as that the author 
of these resolutions was utterly incompetent to pass judgment 
upon them from his personal ignorance of the question at 
issue. 

Resolution No. II: 

" That he is in no sense a discoverer or explorer.^'' 

This un grammatical blow from a literary society of such 
pretensions is amusing. " A discoverer or a explorer " might 
tumble accidentally from the pen of an unfledged rustic raised 
on the prairies, but a "learned" society should at least know 
that a vowel is preceded by the article an. We excuse the 
lapse, however, and generously attribute it to their haste to 
inflict another telling stroke at their victim. 

Captain Glazier's explorations, unlike those of his critics, 
have extended beyond the limits of Saint Paul, and his discov- 
ery of the True Source of the Father of Waters has been rec- 
ognized by thousands of his intelligent countrymen, including 
geographers, college faculties, teachers, encyclopaedists, and 
map publishers. It may be confidently affirmed, moreover, 
that he has " explored" more of the American continent than 
any fifty members of the Minnesota Historical Society, inclu- 
sive of the pretentious gentlemen who denounced him in such 
unmeasured terms. His work on the "Mississippi" alone 
affords ample evidence of his exploratory labors and researches 
in outlying sections of the country. 

* From conversations I have since had with prominent residents of 
Saint Paul, I have obtained this knowledge of the "true inwardness'' 
or motive of the opposition, which, as I have already said, was, and 
continues to be, confined to a very narrow circle of the M. H. S. 



appe:n^dix. 431 



Resolution No. Ill: 



" Tfuxt the lake which Captain Glazier asserts is the True Source of 
the Mississippi River is not such in reality, but that the real source of 
the river is Lake Itasca and its tributaries.''' 

Captain Glazier lias never claimed that the real Source of 
the river was not in a " tributary," but denies most emphat- 
ically that it is in Lake Itasca. The " tributary " in question 
is a fine lake above Itasca, separated from the latter by a 
lofty and extended ridge, and contributes its clear waters 
through a perennial stream to Lake Itasca and thence to the 
Mississippi. Lake Itasca has no better title to be considered 
the Source of the river than Lake Bemidji, except that the 
former is nearer the True Source tban the latter. The lake 
above Itasca, over a mile and a half long, nearly as wide, and 
forty-five feet deep, which for the past ten years has been 
known far and wide as Lake Glazier, is claimed as the True 
Head, the reservoir of its five tributary streams, and hence 
named Pokegama by the Indians, or "The Place where the 
Waters Gather." This body of water, unknown until 1881 to 
the Solons of the Historical Society, is claimed by Captain 
Glazier and his host of supporters as the True Source of the 
Mississippi, in defiance of the perverse and senseless contention 
of a few cavilers. 

Resolution No. IV: 

^'' That We feel amazed at the presumption and assurance displayed 
by Captain Glazier in making his claim; in arrogantly heralding him- 
self to the world as a discoverer ; in deceiving historical societies; in 
publishing maps on which the lake in question is made to appear in a 
wrong position and four times its proper size, and in persuading pub- 
lishers to place his name on their maps.^'' 

Presumption, assurance, arrogance, and deceit are here 
flippantly cast in the teeth of a man whose only offense con- 
sisted in a modest attempt to settle a long-disputed geograph- 
ical question. He asked no subsidy of the Government or 
State, but undertook a difficult, nay arduous, journey through 
a veritable terra incognita, entirely at his own cost and in the 
interest of science. May I respectfully ask these gentlemen 
who make him a target for their vituperative shafts, where is 
the presumption involved in such an act? Many thousands 
think it was highly commendable in Glazier to put himself to 



432 APPEI^DIX. 

so much inconvenience in order to solve a problem in Ameri- 
can geography which would have solved itself in the course 
of time, when frontiersmen pushed farther forward into the 
primitive wilderness that surrounds the Head of the river. 
Was it presumption in Stanley to find Livingstone? Was it 
presumption in Nicollet to follow and pass Schoolcraft in his 
investigations? Is it not rather presumption and assurance for 
a few members of this society to thrust themselves before the 
public and condemn and denounce in such unseemly and 
opprobrious terms a man who did his best to enlighten them 
on a topic concerning which they were at the time in dense 
ignorance? The "presumption and assurance of Captain 
Glazier" have borne fruit. It is now known that the "great 
scientist of the Cass expedition" was in error when he 
coined the word Itasca and conferred it upon the sheet of 
water which he doubtless believed was the Source of the 
Mississippi. People are no longer in ignorance or doubt as to 
what is the True Source; that it lies to the south of Itasca, 
in a lake of no mean pretensions, which in point of beauty 
and size compares most favorably with its neighbor, and is in 
every way worthy of the distinction of standing at the 
extreme head of our greatest river. The Minnesota Historical 
Society may possess its soul in peace; Lake Glazier will sur- 
vive and be known as such generations after these brilliant 
critics have been gathered to their fathers, and their society 
has become more enlightened and consequently less obstruct- 
ive and unmannerly. 

The remaining portion of Resolution No. IV is simply 
exaggerated nonsense, destitute of a grain of truth, and there- 
fore calls only for denial. Captain Glazier made a plain 
announcement of fact to the public, without any flourish of 
trumpets. He attempted to deceive no historical society, but 
invited them to investigate for themselves. And here I will 
add that no honest investigator could arrive at any other con- 
clusion than the one he had reached. The maps he has pub- 
lished are geographically correct— far more so than those of 
Schoolcraft, Nicollet, or the spurious production of the agent 
who followed Glazier, and imposed his alleged map of the 
region upon the public under the segis of his employers of the 
Minnesota Historical Society. The "lake in question," as 



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434 APPENDIX. 

delineated on the Glazier map, is of correct relative size to 
Lake Itasca, and is in its right topographical position in 
reference to the latter lake. Finally, it is almost needless to 
say that he has no such influence over publishers as that 
ascribed to him, and if his name has found a place on their 
maps it has been of their own volition without a word of 
" persuasion" from him. The folly of such a supposition is 
worthy of its originators. 

Resolution No. V: 

" That the Legislature be requested to pass the Donnelly bill, which 
fixes the names of the lakes and streams composing the Itasca source of 
the Mississippi River.'''' 

Resolution No. VI: 

" Tliat we call upon the various geographical, historical, and other 
learned societies to co-operate loith us in repudiating Glazier's claim.'''' 

If the Minnesota Legislature would pass a bill removing 
Lake Glazier from its envied position at the Head of the Mis- 
sissippi, it would doubtless satisfy the qualms of the Minne- 
sota Historical Society, and forever silence the troublesome 
Glazier, who has disturbed their learned equanimity to such a 
degree as to render an appeal to the Legislature necessary. 
Nothing short of this could have any other effect than to 
make the quasi-learned society of Saint Paul and their legisla- 
tors appear supremely ridiculous in the eyes of all intelligent 
and fair-minded Americans. 

The ' ' various geographical, historical, and other learned 
societies" called upon to co-operate, have, as I am informed, 
with very few exceptions, shown great hesitation in compro- 
mising themselves by obeying the summons; the perverseness 
exhibited by their Northwestern sister — in her dogged opposi- 
tion to Captain Glazier, and unreasoning adherence to Lake 
Itasca — having given rise to a suspicion that, after all. Glazier 
may be right and the Saint Paul egotists wrong. Anyhow, they 
could not be expected to "co-operate" in denouncing the 
gentleman as a "fraud" without first dispatching an explor- 
ing party to the Headwaters on their own account, and hence 
their hesitation to "co-operate." The Saint Paul wiseacres 
have therefore been left to fight their battle alone; with what 
result we shall probably learn further on. 



APPENDIX. 435 

The St. Paul Times, iu 1887, expressed its opinion of the 
caustic treatment Captain Glazier was receiving from certain 
members of the Minnesota Historical Society. The editor 
remarks: 

" The Minnesota State Historical Society has covered itself all over 
with glory, and Captain Glazier with ignominy, and the people can now 
take a rest so far as they are concerned about the rival claims of the 
discoverers of the Som'ce of the great Father of Waters. General 
Baker seems to have considered it the society's duty to deal in wholesale 
denunciation of Captain Glazier's claims, which are apparently as well 
founded as those of any other discoverer. Schoolcraft was not the first 
to see Itasca Lake. William Morrison, a pioneer Minnesotian, had a 
cabin on the island in Itasca Lake twenty-eight years before School- 
craft visited that region. Yet no one has denied the latter the right to 
name the lake and island. Why not accord Glazier a similar right under 
precisely similar circumstances? His claims are supported emphatically 
by the overwhelming testimony of hundreds of the most distinguished 
and competent authorities in the Northwest. Glazier did undoubtedly 
expend much time and treasure in investigating, not only the Source of 
the Mississippi, but the history of the entire river from its Source to the 
Gulf. He could have no object, nor could he gain anything by garbhng 
statements when it was as easy for him to publish the truth. As a 
writer, the sale of whose works depended permanently on the accuracy 
of their information, he had every incentive to take the greatest pains 
in getting at the facts. The leading map publishers have indorsed his 
claims, and do so in a way that leaves no doubt that they placed implicit 
confidence in him as a careful and trustworthy geographer and historian. 
Rand, McNally & Co., George T. Cram, A. S. Barnes & Co., and others 
of the leading publishing houses who have a heavy personal interest iu 
investigating the correctness of everything they publish, tacitly 
acknowledge Captain Glazier's claims by accepting his views, and repro- 
ducing them in their books and maps. The press, pulpit, bar, and 
Legislature of the State of Minnesota give unquahfled assent, through 
many of their leading members, to the position of Captain Glazier. 
And the Minnesota State Historical Society assumes toward these gen- 
tlemen a very offensive attitude when they stigmatize, by a string of 
violent and abusive resolutions, his natural and apparently just claims 
to be considered the first who published his behef that Lake Glazier is 
the True Source of the Mississippi. The society has acted Hke a pack of 
intellectual hobble-de-hoys, and not in the sedate, cautious, and dignified 
fashion we naturally expect of them. Even if Glazier's claims were as 
absm-d as the society says they are, there is no excuse for turning our 
Historical Society into an agency for the dissemination of abusive epithets. 
. . . From all we can glean, we are decidedly of opinion that the rash 
conduct of a few members has placed the society in a vexy ridiculous 
position, and if they have raised a laugh against themselves they have 
themselves to blame. The frantic appeals to the world to stand by the 
Minnesota Historical Society in this matter, as they are embraced in 



436 APPENDIX. 

their i-esolutions, are too absurd for anything. It must mortify any 
sensible member of the society to read the resolutions published in the 
Globe and Pioneer Press. They are decidedly Billingsgatish, and bear 
on their face a spirit of hostility against Captain Glazier which could 
scarcely be evoked by a mere love of truth. . . . On the whole, we 
prefer to accept Lake Glazier as the name for the body of water which 
he asserts is the True Source of the Mississippi. ...'''' 

The Saint Paul Dispatch, a leading and widely circulated 
daily of the capital of Minnesota, has published, since 1881, 
many editorials upon this subject. I reproduce one that 
appeared in the issue of March 27, 1887: 

"A question has been raised by some members of our Historical 
Society as to whether Lake Itasca or Lake Glazier is the True Source of 
the Mississippi. Captain Glazier makes a claim to having located the lake 
which bears his name as the Primal Reservoir, or True Head, of the 
river. Upon his announcement to that effect, the world abandoned its 
previous belief that Itasca was the source, and accepted the Glazier lake 
as the true fountain of the mighty stream. Later the claim was 
advanced by certain members of our Historical Society that Glazier was 
not the discoverer, and was not entitled to any credit. It was said that 
others had been there prior to his visit and had ' discovered ' the lake. 
But it was not claimed that any one had ever announced it as the Source 
of the Mississippi, and the best proof of this is found in the assertion of 
the State Historical Society that it is not the Source. It would seem, 
therefore, that before Captain Glazier is denounced as a 'fraud,' it 
would be well to settle the question as to who is right about the actual 
Source— he or the Historical Society. If Itasca is the Source, then Gla- 
zier's 'discovery"' is unimportant and not worth wasting words about. 
But if the lake fixed upon by Glazier is the Source, then undoubtedly he 
is entitled to great credit for discovering a fact of which even our His- 
torical Society seems to be still ignorant. . . .■" 

A correspondent at Buffalo writes to a Northern New 
York ."journal in April, 1887. The Syracuse Standard 
had criticised the Captain's claim to discovery at the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi in the scurrilous style of the Minne- 
sota Historical Society, and the New York paper copied the 
Standard article, adding its own comments in opposition to 
Glazier's announced discovery. The Buffalo correspondent 
replied as follows: 

"In the issue of March 23d of your usually well-informed paper, you 
have given prominent insertion to an article copied from the Syracuse 
Standard, in which the writer commented unfavorably on Captain Wil- 
lard Glazier's claim. As an old acquaintance of the Captain, I venture to 
take up the gauntlet in his behalf; and first, I will observe that we have 



APPENDIX. 437 

here an illustration of the truth of the proverb, -A prophet is not with- 
out honor save in his own country.' While honors have been showered 
on Willard Glazier by the press, geographers, and scientists throughout 
the land, in his 'own country 'he is sneered at as an 'adventurer.' 
This, however, only indirectly, and probably from inadvertence. He is 
remembered, not unkindly, by his former classmates of your Wesleyan 
Seminary, some of whom have recognized him as conferring honor on 
their alma mater by his stirring military career and popular writings, 
and are his good friends to this day. 

"The Syracuse Standard, from which you copied the scurrilous 
article, is inconsistent, to say the least. In 1883, it gave its readers a very 
favorable notice of Captain Glazier's book, ' Battles for the Union,' then 
just published. It spoke of him as an author ' wielding his pen with sur- 
prising facility,' and his descriptions ' abounding with life and interest'; 
adding, ' the work is full of the momentous incidents of a struggle, the 
memory of which our brave soldiers love to dwell upon,' etc. 

" Glazier was a soldier under Custer and Kilpatrick, and successfully 
took part in the battles of Cedar Mountain, Manassas, Fredericksburg, 
Brandy Station, Gettysburg, and other engagements, and was eventually 
taken prisoner and made the acquaintance of the interior of Libby 
Prison. He finally made his escape and reached the Federal lines. In 
his first book, written shortly after the close of the war, we get many 
glimpses of life in that well-known prison, and numerous pathetic and 
humorous incidents that fell under his notice. He then wrote ' Three 
Years in the Federal Cavalry,' in defense of that arm of the service. 
Then followed 'Battles for the Union ' and ' Heroes of Three Wars,' and 
later a work on the ' Peculiarities of American Cities,' all of which have 
won glowing eulogies from the press from Maine to California. Lastly, 
he is about to give to his countrymen a work on ' The Valley of the 
Mississippi,' having traversed the entire length of the Great River in a 
canoe for purposes of observation — a distance of over 3,000 miles, and 
occupying a period of 117 days. Possessed of energy and daring, Glazier, 
before this, had crossed the continent on horseback from Boston to San 
Francisco, thus proving himself a thorough American in being able to do 
anything and everything equally well ; ' rushing, ' as Shakespeare observes, 
' where angels feared to tread.' His * superficial works ' met the demand 
of the public and have been sold by hundreds of thousands. This fact 
is usually considered a test of the excellence rather than the superficiality 
of a book. 

" In the article quoted from the inconsistent Syracuse paper, reference 
is made to an investigation by the Minnesota Historical Society of Cap- 
tain Glazier's claim to have located the True Source of the Mississippi 
River. The investigation here referred to was confined to one individual, 
who wrote an abusive pamphlet on the subject; and the society, com- 
posed for the most part of farmers and persons who knew nothing of, or 
had ever visited, the Headwaters of the Great River, accepted it. The 
individual in question took exception to Captain Glazier's giving names 
to sundry lakes and streams he discovered between Leech Lake and Lake 
Itasca, which had never before been named or probably ever seen by white 



438 APPENDIX. , 

men. These lakes and streams he named after his cavahy comrades, and 
the old explorers, De Soto, Marquette, La Salle, Hennepin, and Joliet, 
and their successors, Beltrami, Schoolcraft, and Nicollet. He also gave 
the names of Garfield, Sheridan, Bayard, Stoneman, Pleasanton, Gregg, 
Custer, and Kilpatrick to other bodies of water; and in three cases was 
guilty of the serious offense of giving the names of his wife and daughter 
and that of a deceased sister to some small lakes, as an affectionate 
memento of his visit. This is the worst that can be said of him. 

" With regard to the location of the Source of the Great River, Captain 
Glazier is supported by a host of competent judges, including the Gov- 
ernor of Minnesota and hundreds of representative men of the State; 
while the fact of the discovery is disputed by only a few persons— 
scarcely one of whom has ever been within two hundred miles of the 
Source. . . . The lake located by Captain Glazier as the Primal Reser- 
voir, or True Source, of the Mississippi, is now recognized as such by 
almost every geographer and map publisher in the country, and by many 
in Em'ope."" 

The opposition to Captain Glazier by tlie Minnesota Histor- 
ical Society, located at Saint Paul, partook of an extremely per- 
sonal, not to say malignant type, about the beginning of the year 
1887. It is probably difficult to sympathize with a new truth 
which dispels the illusion of a lifetime. It should be repeated, 
however, that this opposition w^as confined to a very few indi- 
viduals. These gentlemen were reluctant to surrender the 
honor that had clung for fifty years to the Itasca of School- 
craft. They were under the protection of the society, and 
resolved, by virtue of their position, to suppress the new theory 
that would displace their idol; and perhaps there is little 
wonder that prejudice and conservatism were averse to its 
adoption. The unheard-of proposition that Lake Itasca was 
not the Source of the Mississippi was a heresy that must be met, 
and its propounder silenced. The subjoined article on the 
subject of the opposition opportunely appeared in the Saint 
Paul Dispatcli, in the month of February, 1887, and doubtless 
expressed the views of many citizens besides those of the 
writer: 

Editor Saint Paul Dispatch: 

The Minnesota Historical Society, it would seem, has been over-hasty 
in its efforts to influence public opinion against the claim of Captain 
Glazier. Their report, as read last night, was a document hardly calcu- 
lated to inspire confidence in thinking people regarding the erudition of 
what ought to be an institution seeking the truth of history and settling 
mooted geographical questions. This may have arisen from the peculiar 
characteristics of the gentleman who was chairman of the committee to 



APPENDIX. 439 

whom was delegated the work of preparing the report. However, the 
society should have ignored it, but, having adopted the same, have laid 
themselves open to the responsibility of it, if not to the ridicule of sister 
societies throughout the world. It is not meet nor dignified that a body 
assuming to be "learned " should lumber up a report of that character^ 
which must be looked to as an authoi'ity on this subject in future time— 
with discourteous language, possibly libelous, and which seemed taken 
entire from a pamphlet issued from a rival publishing house, and 
adopted by the committee. It would seem, if the committee had found, 
in their opinion, no just foundation for Captain Glazier''s claims, that our 
society should have reported in language becoming the society, and with 
some consideration due that gentleman. . . . They have greatly 
jovvered their standard, and would seem to aspire to be considered a com- 
panj' of gossipy old women. It was also unfortunate that the society 
refused to listen to Captain Glazier's brother, who had accompanied him 
to the Headwaters of the Great River, and desired to speak before them. 
Can it be possible that a society, presumed to be above bias or prejudice, 
should refuse to hear both sides, preferring to make an ex parte report? 
Is this the position a society claiming public confidence should assume? 
. . . A society seeking the truth of history should be content to bear a 
cross in its mission, or surrender to more patient hands. Captain Glazier 
was entitled to some consideration from the society as well as the pam- 
phlet of the book publisher referred to. Fair play is dear to every Amer- 
ican heart. If he was not entitled to any considei-ation in the opinion of 
the savants, as to his alleged discovery at the Head of the Mississii^pi, he 
was at least entitled to a patient hearing from the society of our State, 
but a small portion of the great country for which he fought and suf- 
fered a long and weary imprisonment. It would seem a disgrace to our 
State that the Minnesota Historical Society has assumed the motto, 
" Strike, and then hear me.'' Is the Minnesota Historical Society a sort 
of mutual admiration society, making up reports on quite important 
questions from pamphlets of rival publishing houses, without hearing 
both sides; and giving to the world profound conclusions based on 
ex parte information and their own prejudices? Should their one-sided 
report be a foreclosure of the matter? 

, A Citizen of St. Paul. 

The Saint Paul Dispatch has believed iu and supported the 
Glazier side of the controversy from its inception; and it will 
not be considered surprising, therefore, that I find myself 
more than once quoting from its pungent and ably written 
articles. In reply to a sheet published in Sauk Centre, Minne- 
sota, whose editor took the side of the Historical Society, and 
rejected Captain Glazier's claim, the Dispatch expressed itself 
as follows: 

" We don't say that Itasca is or is not the Source of the Mississippi. 
The Historical Society says it is; Glazier says it isn't, and describes 



440 APPEI^'DIX. 

another lake which he claims to be the Source. Between the energetic 
and enterprising Glazier and some of the fossils of the Historical Society 
we are inclined, however, to believe in Glazier; but before expressing 
our final opinion as to whether he is right or wrong, we want another 
exploration made. If the Historical Society and its puny allies, like the 
Sauk Centre Tribune, are so firm in the belief that Itasca is the Source, 
they should accept Glazier's proposition for an investigation. By not 
doing so, however, they lay themselves open to the suspicion that they 
are afraid that Glazier will prove what he says, and thereby leave them 
open to the charge of being a sublime lot of ignoramuses.'" 

The following article, by one friendly to Captain Glazier, 
is taken from llie Minneapolis Evening Journal of December, 
1888, and is inserted here to show the animus of some of the 
Captain's "critics and cavilers," whose perseverance and indus- 
try would have been more commendable if exerted in the 
cause of truth: 

Editor Minneapolis Journal: 

The vexed question of the True Source of the Father of 
Waters has again come to the front, and candidates for fame or 
notoriety are propounding their theories, backed by pretended facts, 
in the vain effort to dispossess Captain Willard Glazier of the honor 
conferred upon him by public opinion in 1881 ; in which year, as you are 
aware, he published to the world the results of his journey to the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi. A paragraph relating to the question of the 
True Source of the Great River has lately appeared in some papers, 
dated St. Paul, December 1st, drawing attention to what the paragrapher 
is pleased to denominate, ' ' An instructive and valuable article, with a 
carefully drawn and accurate map, contributed to the Pioneer Press."" 
I would ask you to kindly permit me a few words on this subject, which 
may be considered of interest to some of your readers. Captain Glazier 
claims to have located the Foimtain-head of the Mississippi, and the 
geographers, educational publishers, and map makers of the country 
recognize his claim, while hundreds of the most prominent men of 
Minnesota, and elsewhere, have borne written testimony to the truth of 
his published statements. Having been identified with the Glazier expe- 
dition to the Headwaters of the Mississippi, I unhesitatingly assert, despite 
a thousand cavileis like the correspondent of the Pioneer Press, that 
no other water exists that can, with any show of reason or plausibility, 
be called the Source of the Mississippi, but the body of water which now 
bears the name of Lake Glazier. The ' ' carefully drawn and accurate 
map," to which allusion is made in the paragraph referred to, is a mean- 
ingless jumble, utterly beyond comprehension, except in that it confirms 
the Glazier account by placing its delineator's alleged source in a relative 
position to Lake Glazier that, in itself, refutes the theory of the pond 
being the Source of the river. The article in the Pioneer Press is 
evasive, and shows the animus of the writer, whose aim is clearly a desire 
to propagate an untruth, and by so doing deprive a worthy man of the 



APPEl^DIX. 441 

credit accorded him by his fellow-countrymen. Captain Glazier may not 
have been the fii'st to visit the lake to the south of, and above, Itasca, 
but was admittedly the first to locate it definitely, and establish its 
geographical importance in its relation to the Mississippi, and for this 
reason is entitled to the same consideration that was accorded to his 
predecessor, Schoolcraft, who claimed the credit of having " discovered " 
Lake Itasca, which he probably knew had previously been visited by 
William Morrison, the fur trader, in 1804. Parties who have visited the 
region since 1881 are very confused and unsatisfactory in their reports, 
no two of them agreeing as to the Primal Reservoir; but they make one 
thing clear, and that is: That the large heart-shaped lake to the south 
of Itasca— wider and deeper than the latter— is the only body of water 
worthy of recognition as the Fountain-head of the Great River ; all the 
other ponds and lakelets referred to by them being little more than 
mud-puddles and bogs, with no outlets, and altogether undeserving of 
the slightest consideration. The "true source" of the writer to the 
Pioneer Press is one of these frog-ponds, and his so-called "accurate 
map ■" is accurate only in this, that it places Lake Glazier where nature 
placed it, namely, at the Head of the Mississippi. 

Veritas Caput. 

The Worcester Spy published in December, 1888, the fol- 
lowing letter from an Eastern correspondent, who appears to 
have taken an interest in the question of the True Source of 
the Mississippi: 

Editor Worcester Spy: 

In an editorial in the Spy of last week, something is said of ' ' Lake 
Glazier," and also of the fljiding of another lake which, it is claimed, 
supersedes the claim of Captain Glazier in 1881 in regard to the True 
Source of the Mississippi. A Mr. Brower, in the St. Paul Pioneer Press, 
it appears, is the champion of this latest source. In his article in the 
Press he claims that an insignificant lake, or pond, west of Lake Glazier, 
is the true source. In this statement, his map, also published, contra- 
dicts him, as in the map it is shown that his "true source" is considerably 
farther north than Lake Glazier, and hence can not be the fountain- 
head of the Great River. This is not the first time some of these small 
ponds have been taken to be the source of the river. These ponds were 
not unknown to Captain Glazier at the time he made his exploration, 
and put forth his claim. All the lakes, ponds, and feeders in that region 
were visited, and the result was that the beautiful lake called by the 
Indians Pokegama was selected. In regard to this, Captain Glazier says, 
"I simply claim to have estabUshed the fact that there is a fine lake 
above and beyond Itasca, wider and deeper than that lake, with wood- 
land shores, with three constantly flowing streams for its feeders, and 
in every way worthy of the position it occupies as the Primal Reservoir, 
or the True Source, of the Father of Waters." 

No other lake in the region beyond Itasca can compare in any sense 
with the above-mentioned lake. This fact is known and admitted by 



442 APPEl^DIX. 

the Indians born and reared in that locality, as I have it from them. 
General Baker's attempt to crush out the claim of Captain Glazier was a 
failure. Mr. Brower and his later claim can not stand before the facts 
in regard to the merits of Lake Glazier as the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi. 

An Early Pioneer op Minnesota. 

In January, 1889, an effort was made by a certain educa- 
tional publishing house in New York to discredit Captain 
Glazier with the public by denying his just claim to have dis- 
covered and located the source of the Mississippi. In reply, the 
following letter appeared in the iV^^c England Home Journal, 
from the pen of a gentleman well known in that section as a 
writer on history and various branches of science, who is also 
a member of several learned societies in this country and 
Europe: 

Editor Home Journal: 

A feeble attempt has lately been made to prove that the claim of 
Captain Willard Glazier to have discovered the true source of the Mis- 
sissippi, rests upon no other foundation than that of " literary piracy and 
fraud.'' If this w^ere true, concerned with liim in this attempt to foist 
upon the public this fraudulent claim, we find a long list of hitherto 
reputable names of men who fill high positions in the civil and educa- 
tional world. Prominent among the number in Minnesota are the Gov- 
ernor, two ex-Governors, five Mayors, six editors, and six superintendents 
of schools. In the country at large, eighteen educational publishers, 
fourteen map publishers, together with the indorsement of four colleges 
and several leading institutions of leai'ning. His claim also receives the 
sanction of several educators and map publishers in other countries. 
The above are only a few of the indorsements received by the Captain, 
yet we are told that his claim is all moonshine; that they who have sanc- 
tioned all this, know not what they are talking about ! 

C. 

A leading Saint Paul daily, of March 4, 1889, treats in an 
editorial of a certain phase of the opposition to Captain 
Glazier. Persons residing in Saint Paul, hearing of the pro- 
ceedings of the Historical Society, or rather of a few of its 
officious members, denounced the latter as most unfair to the 
Captain, and unbecomiog the society. Knowing nothing of 
the locality of the Headwaters from personal inspection, their 
attempts to impose their views upon the public could be 
characterized as nothing less than rash and presumptuous, if 
not worse : 

" . . . . The State Historical Society and its estimable secretary 
appear to have reached a stage of excitement, in the consideration of 



APPENDIX. 443 

Captain Glazier's claims, which far exceeds that of any other individual 
or interest concerned. Two years ago the society passed resolutions 
denouncing Captain Glazier as an ' adventurer,' and of course denying to 
him the credit of discovering the True Source of the Mississippi, and 
thereafter went to the Legislature, virtually asking that its resolutions be 
spread out on the statute books of the State in the form of a legal 
enactment. They selected, strangely enough, as the instrument of the 
undertaking, Ignatius Donnelly, who, as a discoverer, historian, and 
literary oracle, would, we fear, run serious risk of faring quite as badly 
as Glazier at the hands of that erudite establishment, should the occa- 
sion demand an expression of its opinion regarding him. They failed, 
however, in the undertaking, and now, two years later, propose to repeat 
their efforts. 

" We do not assume the championship of Captain Glazier. That is not 
at all necessary. We do not pretend to say whether the lake which now 
appears on the State map as the True Source of the Mississippi River 
should or should not be called Lake Glazier. But we would like to know 
how the State Historical Society, or any other body, expects to determine 
the True Source of the Mississippi, or the true discoverer of that Source, 
by the imssage of resolutions or the enactment of legislation. The 
students of this question, either now or hereafter, can not be expected 
to care a rap what the State Legislature thought, or what the Historical 
Society made its members believe it thought, on the subject. This kind 
of legislation is about on a par with certain mediaeval practices which 
involved the barbarous sacrifice of human life in order to establish the 
correctness of their opinions as to the hereafter." 

In a review of Captain Glazier's notable work on the 
"Mississippi," in which the author describes in detail his 
journey to the Headwaters, and discovery of the Source of the 
Great River, the Popular Science Montlily for April, 1889, 
refers to his claim in the following words: 

"In this book, Captain Glazier relates the story in full, of his journey 
in 1881, by the aid of an Indian guide, ' across country,' from Brainerd, 
Minnesota, to Lake Glazier, south of Lake Itasca, and his determination 
of it as the real Source of the Mississippi River. The journey was made 
first to Leech Lake, which is on one of the main afiluenfs of the Upper 
Mississippi— and is the seat of an Indian agency— and thence up a chain 
of lakes and portages, through a territory of which very little, if any- 
thing, was definitely known, to Itasca Lake; around Itas.-a Lake to a 
stream flowing into it; up that stream to ' Lake Glazier,' and around 
that lake until the author and explorer was satisfied that nothing 
important was likely to be found above it. . . , As determined by 
the author, Lake Glazier is 1,585 feet above the level of the ocean, and 
is 3, 184 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. . . . Captain Glazier's claims 
to be the discoverer of the True Source of the Mississippi have been 
disputed by some persons who have affirmed that the lake which has 



444 APPENDIX. 

been named after him was not unknown to Schoolcraft, and that it has 
been visited by hunters. The Captain repUes to these objectors by 
affirming that no matter how many persons may have known of the 
existence of that body of water, he was the first to explore it, to gauge 
its dimensions, and to determine that it is the Ultimate Source of the 
Mississippi; and he cites a large number of declarations of geographers, 
and of men versed in the history, geography, and traditions of Minne- 
sota, which support his claims in this shape. He represents Glazier 
Lake, though its superficial area is less, as being wider and deeper, and 
containing more water than Itasca Lake. The story of the explorer's 
journey is very pleasantly narrated. ..." 

The Philadelpliia Evening Telegraph, a journal read largely 
by scholars and scientists, gives its sanction to the Glazier 
discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi in the follow- 
ing extract from an editorial: 

" . . . . It appears quite clear that Lake Itasca never possessed 
any title to the honor conferred upon it by Schoolcraft in 1832 of giving 
birth to our magnificent river. One reason alone is given to account for 
our ignorance of its True Source, namely, it was outside the usual 
track of the fur traders, and in a region scarcely ever visited by Indians 
or white men. Schoolcraft had pronounced Itasca to be the source, 
and no one up to the date of Captain Glazier's explorations felt 
sufficiently interested in the matter to investigate or dispute its 
claim. . . . 

"It was long suspected that the Mississippi had its Fountain-head 
higher up than Lake Itasca, and in July, 1881, an expedition led by Cap- 
tain Willard Glazier discovered a lake to the south of Itasca— hitherto 
unrecognized in our geographies— a mile and a half in diameter, and 
falling into the latter by a permanent stream— the Infant Mississippi. 
Beyond this there appears to be no water connected with the river, 
and hence Lake Glazier is now the recognized source of the Missis- 
sippi. ..." 

If any fair-minded and unprejudiced critic of the Glazier 
claim reads the foregoing extracts, let it be understood that 
these shafts of the exponents of public opinion are not aimed 
at him, but at those only who have assumed the prerogative 
of censorship, for the reason that by some accident they find 
themselves in the position of leadership in a society claiming 
to be "learned." 

The discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi was 
made over ten years ago, and published to the world, in a 
plainly written narrative, by the discoverer, a man entitled to 
be believed, and to be treated with some consideration. The 
discovery is now virtually recognized and accepted by every 



APPEI^TDIX. 445 

geographer and scientist in the country who has given atten- 
tion to the subject; but continues to be denied by a few 
pseudo-critics, associated with the Minnesota Historical Society 
at Saint Paul, who persistently stultify themselves, and 
endeavor to mislead the public by solemnly asserting that 
Lake Itasca is the Source, in defiance of all evidence to the 
contrary; 'and this for no better reason than because School- 
craft, sixty years ago, so believed and asserted ! 

It must not be forgotten by the reader, in estimating the 
value of this opposition, that these same cavilers have never 
personally risked a visit to the source of the river, and hence 
their egregious assumption of authority in determining an 
important question in geography has, to say the least, placed 
them in a very equivocal light before the country; for evidence 
of which I have simply to refer the reader to some of the pre- 
ceding extracts. 



c. 

CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO FIRST EXPIfDITION. 

The intelligent reader of this Appendix, it is hoped, will 
feel in some degree interested in what I respectfully submit for 
his consideration, in explanation and justification of the facts 
involved in this discussion. From a large mass of correspond- 
ence now lying before me, I have selected a few letters bear- 
ing upon these facts, which go to show how wide-spread is 
the popular belief that the position taken by Captain Glazier 
is unassailable. It is founded upon the personal observation 
and most painstaking investigation of a man of no ordinary 
intelligence, who has staked his reputation as a well-known 
author on the positive assertion that Lake Itasca possesses no 
claim ichatever to be considered the Source of our greatest river, 
a truth so palpable and patent to the sense of sight as to be 
beyond the sphere of doubt to any rational mind. 

The correspondence here reproduced will show that, in the 
belief of the writers, Glazier located the True Source of the 
Mississippi River in a beautiful sheet of water heyond Itasca, 
and emptying into the latter through a permanent outlet; fur- 
ther, that despite the unreasoning opposition of a few critics, the 
press and the public have already yielded him the credit of 
setting at rest a long-discussed geographical question. 

Barrett Channing Paine of Indianapolis, formerly a 
reporter on the staff of the Saint Paul Pioneer Press, addressed 
the following letter to that journal, under date August four- 
teenth, 1881. Mr. Paine accompanied Captain Glazier to the 
Source of the Mississippi on his First Expedition, and descended 
with him, in his canoe, throughout the entire length of the river 
to the Gulf. While at the Headwaters, and during the descent 
of the river, Mr. Paine addressed long accounts of the journey 
and discovery to the Pioneer Press, as well as to many of 
the leading papers of cities on the banks of the Mississippi. 
In the whole of this correspondence, he expressed his firm 

(446> 



APPEi^DIX. 447 

personal belief in the trutli of Captain Glazier's contention 
that the Source of the Mississippi is not in Lake Itasca, but in 
the fine lake immediately beyond it. 

After giving a detailed account of the journey from the 
shore of Itasca Lake, he proceeds: 

^'Editor Saint Paul Pioneer Press: 

. . . '"At last our longing eyes rested upon the waters of Itasca. 
Soon after, we were floating on its placid bosom, and after a pull of about 
two miles reached Schoolcraft Island. This island is about three acres 
in extent, and so covered with underbrush that Ave could with difficulty 
clear a place for a camp. The island has but few trees of any size, the 
most prominent of which is the pine, and on one of these we blazed our 
names and the date of our arrival. Lake Itasca is not at all the sort of 
lake I had expected to see, being a rather large and fine body of water, 
with an extreme length of about five miles and an average breadth of 
nearly a mile. It has three arms of nearly equal size, and the island on 
which we camped is situated near the point where they come together. 
The lake was fixed upon as the Source of the Mississippi by Schoolcraft 
in 1832, and until now its title has been undisputed. Inquiries instituted 
by Captain Glazier, however, developed the fact that though few among 
the Indians and trappers who had visited that section believed Itasca to 
be the Source, there was some controversy as to whether another lake 
situated beyond Itasca, and pouring its waters into it, had not the strong- 
est claim to that distinction. We were fortunate in having among our 
guides an Indian, named Chenowagesic, who had hunted and trapped for 
years on all the surroimding lakes, and had even for a number of years 
had his wigwam on Schoolcraft Island, and planted corn on that historic 
spot. He stated that a lake beyond Itasca had always been considered by 
him, and other Indians thoroughly familiar with the locality, as the True 
Source of the Father of Waters. 

"Acting on this information, we started for the upper, or southern, 
end of the lake early next morning, fljiding, when we reached it, that it 
terminated in bulrushes and what seemed to be a swamp. Our guide, 
however, took us through the rushes, and we found that a small but 
swift stream entered here, up which, with difficulty, we pushed our 
canoes. This stream flows from one of the prettiest lakes we had seen 
on our trip. The shores are high and covered with verdure, and the 
lake, which is nearly round— its regularity being broken by but one point- 
has a greatest diameter of nearly two miles. Into this lake flow three 
principal streams, which rise in sand hills at distances ranging from one 
to two miles from the lake. 

"Having previously estimated the volume of water flowing into 
Itasca by all the streams contributing to it, and found the one from this 
lake much in excess of that of others, we held a little meeting on the 
promontory, and unanimously voted to call the new-found Source Lake 
Glazier, in honor of the leader of our party. 

"In regard to this lake being the True Source or Primal Reservoir of 



448 APPENDIX. 

the Mississippi I have but little doubt, though I am not quite positive a? 
to the rules followed in determining the source of a river. It seems 
customary to select a lake as the som*ce, when practicable, and for that 
reason this honor was given to Itasca, though Schoolcraft must have 
surmised that other streams of more or less magnitude flowed into 
Itasca. In regard to this other lake to the south, he must have been in 
entire ignorance, owing perhaps to the rushes and dense lake growths at 
the mouth of the ci'eek which led to it. . . . " 

I produce another of Mr. Paine's descriptive letters, printed 
in the Saint Louis Olobe- Democrat, August, 1881, Mr. Paine, 
a man of rare intelligence, it will be seen, was thoroughly 
convinced in his own mind, from personal investigation, 
that the lake to the south of Itasca was the Source which had 
been so long sought in vain: 

''^Editor Saint Louis Globe-Democrat: 

" Lake Itasca for many years has been regarded both by geographical 
societies and map makers, as well as by the public generally, as the Source 
of the grandest of rivers— the mighty Mississippi. But geographical 
knowledge, like all other knowledge, is of little consequence if it is not 
progressive, and in its history we have seen the firmly rooted beliefs of 
centuries torn up and tossed aside by the explorations and reasoning of 
intrepid travelers, who, respecting truth and facts more than mere 
theory, have accepted nothing without proof, merely because others 
have so accepted it. This is the ground occupied by Captain WiUard 
Glazier in his explorations in search of the Source of the Mississippi. 

"Starting for the Headwaters of this great river in July last, he 
learned that the dense forests which surround the Source of the Father 
of Waters were rarely penetrated by wlute men, or even by Indians, at 
any time except in winter, when lakes and rivers were frozen up, and 
the whole surface of the country covered with snow. 

"He also heard, through the interpreter and Indian guides Avho 
accompanied him, that the aboriginal inhabitants of these primeval for- 
ests did not regard Itasca as the Som'ce; but spoke of another lake, 
broad and beautiful, which lay beyond Itasca, and poiu'ed its clear water 
into the accepted Som'ce through a small sti'eam. Captain Glazier deter- 
mined to thoroughly examine all this region, and settle definitely and 
forever the problem of the True Source of the Mississippi. 

"Acting in accordance with this resolution, he pushed on toward 
Itasca, intending to make it a starting-point for further exploration. 
Reaching this objective point after innumerable hardships, we camped 
on Schoolcraft Island, and after a night's rest he directed operations 
toward the lakes and streams of the surrounding country. We closely 
examined the shores oC Lake Itasca for tributary streams, finding but 
three of any importance. Of these the one by far the largest came in at 
the extreme head of the lake, at a point where it is nearly filled with 
bulrushes. 



APPEKmx. 449 

"Taking two canoes, Captain Glazier ascended this stream, which, 
though shallow, is rapid. Following its windings, we entered what 
appeared to be a lake filled with reeds and rushes. Pushing through 
this barrier, however, the canoes soon glided out upon the still surface 
of a beautiful lake, clear as crystal, with pebbly bottom, and its shores 
covered with a thick growth of pine. This lake is formed in the shape of 
a heart, having but one marked promontory. Its greatest length is 
about two miles and its width about a mile and a half. 

"We found that this fine lake was fed by at least three rivulets, 
which rose in sand hills a few miles from the lake; and thoroughly 
convinced that this body of water was the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi, our leader proclaimed it as such. Without waiting for much 
discussion, the party decided unanimously to call it Lake Glazier, in 
his honor. Expressing his thanks for this mark of their appreciation. 
Captain Glazier said that though he firmly believed the lake to be the 
Source of the river, he should relax none of his vigilance on the trip 
through the unknown part of the great stream, but would carefully 
examine all water flowing into the Mississippi, in order to be positive as 
to its origin.'" 

The succeeding letter is one of many that appeared in 1881, 
the period of tiie First Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters 
of the Great River. Every leading paper from Saint Paul to 
New Orleans contained correspondence relating to the discov- 
ery of the "True Source," and it would require a volume to 
reproduce all or even one-half of these communications to the 
press by parties interested in the question: 

Saint Louis, Missouri, 

September 19, 1881. 
Editor Saint Louis Post-Dispatch: 

Lake Itasca has been considered to be the source of the Mississippi 
for so many years that any man who disputes its title to that honor is 
looked upon as a radical, and one bent upon upsetting all one's precon- 
ceived geographical ideas. Still it seems to be a fact that Lake Itasca is 
not the Source, and has no greater claim to being called so than Lake 
Cass or Lake Bemid ji or Lake Pepin. This was discovered by Captain 
Willard Glazier, who headed an expedition last July, and started for the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi. Reaching Lake Itasca after a journey of 
great difficulty, he camped on Schoolcraft Island, and thoroughly exam- 
ined the lakes and streams which contribute their waters to the Great 
River. The various theories and stories heard from his Indian guides 
were considered as clews, and faithfully followed up until their truth or 
falsity was ascertained. Success at length crowned his labors, for a 
beautiful lake was found beyond Itasca, and in the direct line of the course 
of the river, which proved to be the farthest water -the extreme Head of 
our grand Mississippi. This lake is said to be about two miles in diame- 
ter, with clear water and beautiful surroundings, fed by several springs, 
29 



450 APPEi^DIX* 

and one of the prettiest of its size in Minnesota. The stream which 
flows from it into Itasca is very rapid, but narrow. . . . 

HiSTORICUS. 

The following extract is from a letter received by the present 
writer, in May, 1884, from Paul Beaulieu, interpreter to the 
White Earth Indian Agency, Minnesota. Beaulieu is a very 
intelligent French-Canadian. He has lived all his life within 
seventy miles of the Head of the Mississippi. His letter was 
in answer to an inquiry as to the views of the people of that 
section concerning Captain Glazier's discovery. He writes: 

White Earth Indian Agency, Minnesota. 

I would respectfully state that according to the ideas of the people 
of this section for scores of years past, in alluding to Lake Itasca, which 
is known only as Elk Lake, or Omushkos, by the Indians, it was never 
considered by them as the Head or Source of the Father of Running 
Waters, or May-see-see-bee. I have received the map you sent me show- 
ing the route of exploration of Captain Glazier, 1881, and am well 
acquainted with his chief guide, Chenowagesic, who has made the sec- 
tion of country explored by Captain Glazier his home for many years, 
and who has at length proved the truth of his often-repeated assertion, 
when maps were shown him, that a lake beyond Itasca would in time 
change an important feature of those maps, and that Lake Itasca can 
not maintain its claim to being the Fountain-head of Ke-chee-see-be, or 
the Great River. The map, as outlined by Captain Glaziei-'s guide, 
Chenowagesic, is correct, and it is plain to us, who know the lay of this 
whole country (I mean by the word us the Chippewa tribe in particular), 
that Lake Glazier is located at the right place, and is the highest lake 
on the great Mississippi, and therefore the Source of that river. 

Respectfully yours, 

Paul Beaulieu. 

A correspondent writes to the Boston 2'imes, August 29, 
1880, as follows: 
Editor Boston Times: 

A glance at the map of the United States will show that the great 
river of North America— the Mississippi— has its Source in Northern Min- 
nesota, flowing at first in a northerly direction, then suddenly darting off 
at right angles to the eastward, and then again continuing its course in 
a southerly direction until it finally mingles its fiood with the Gulf of 
Mexico— a distance from its source of 3,184 miles. It is of the origin of 
this great river I purpose to speak here. Can a river have two som-ces? 
Now it is a debated point at the present day whether Lake Itasca or 
Lake Glazier is the Foimtain-head of the Father of Waters. The for- 
mer lake, as everybody knows, was discovered by Schoolcraft in 1833, the 
latter by Glazier in 1881. Lake Glazier lies in latitude about 47°, and as 
the river flows at first to the northward, it is necessarily beyond the 



APPENDIX. 451 

source assigned to it by Schoolcraft. Hence it follows, that Lake Gla- 
zier, if the premises are correct, is the Primal Reservoir of the Missis- 
sippi, always granting that the alleged discovery is sufficiently authen- 
ticated. As evidence in his favor, Captain Glazier states that in July 
1881, he fitted out an Expedition, composed of himself and three or four 
others, accompanied by an interpreter and Indian guides, and with the 
necessary canoes and supplies started from Saint Paul for Northern 
Minnesota, with the intention of reaching Lake Itasca, and setting at 
rest the vexed question of its claim to be the Source of the Mississippi. 
According to the accounts published at the time in almost every news- 
paper, from the extreme north to the extreme south of the Great River, 
and copied into many of the leading papers of the Eastern and Middle 
States, he not only reached Itasca, but soon discovered that the famed 
lake of Schoolcraft was not the Source ; that, in fact, another lake, nearly 
as large as Itasca, existed farther up — that is, farther south; that this 
latter was a beautiful sheet of water, nestUng among the pines, known 
to the Indians as Pokegama; and, moreover, that it discharged itself by 
a respectable stream— the Infant Mississippi — uito Itasca. One of Cap- 
tain Glazier's Indian guides, rejoicing in the euphemistic name of Che- 
nowagesic, had previously told him of the existence of this lake, and its 
connection -with Itasca, and, therefore, with the Mississippi, and jjiloted 
him and his party into it. This Indian, who is said to have been 
middle-aged, very intelligent, and very faithful and rehable, told him, fur- 
ther, that no white man had ever been seen there; his own hunting- 
groimd was in the immediate vicinity; and the Captain and his associ- 
ates could readUy believe that the locality had probably never before 
been visited by civilized men, for the very good reason that it is weU-nigh 
inaccessible. After surveying the new lake and its feeders, the former 
of which he found neai'ly circular, and nearly two miles in diameter, and 
his companions having formally christened it after tlieir leader, the Cap- 
tain and his party descended the stream connecting it with Itasca in 
their canoes, and passing through the latter lake, started on the long 
voyage, they had originally contemplated as part of their i^lans, down 
the Great River to the Gulf of Mexico. After one hundred and thirty- 
eight days of paddling, and many hairbreadth escapes, they made the 
Gulf. But the news of the discovery of the new Source of the Missis- 
sippi had reached New Orleans before them, as it had reached Saint Louis 
before their arrival at that city on their way down. The news was con- 
sidered of sufficient importance by the New Orleans Academy of Sciences 
to warrant their calling a special meeting of the members, and inviting 
Captain Glazier to lay before them the details of his discovery. Fully 
satisfied as to the validity of hLs claim, highly complimentary resolutions 
were passed, recognizing the discover^'. On his return jovu-ney to Saint 
Louis, Captain Glazier was officially invited to lay before the members 
of the Missouri Historical Society some account of his explorations in 
Northern Minnesota, and again the fact was duly indorsed, by resolution, 
that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Mississippi. Since that date — 
January, 1882— other scientific bodies have, after due investigation, given 
their recognition to the genuineness of the discovery. The maps of 



452 APPENDIX. 

some of the leading map publishers have been corrected, and Lake 
Itasca no longer figures on them as the source of the Great River, 
Lake Glazier having taken its place. The school geographies of several 
publishers likewise give Lake Glazier as the Source. 

All this evidence seems conclusive of the authenticity and credibil- 
ity of the claim of Captain Willard Glazier, albeit we are reluctant to 
give up the good old poetic name of Itasca. The world moves, however, 
and we must move with it. Glazier's name, like those of De Soto, Mar- 
quette, La Salle, Hennepin, and others, will, we venture to think, be 
indissolubly associated, for all time, with our grand old river. 

Good-by, Itasca! Thy beautiful name loses none of its sweetness, 
though shorn of its glory. May-see-see-bee. 

The following is copy of a letter sent to General J. H. 
Baker of the Minnesota Historical Society, Saint Paul. No 
reply was wuchsafed, or the slightest notice taken of it. 
Glazier, although for many years a member in good standing 
of the G. A. R., evidently made a mistake in approaching so 
important a personage — albeit a comrade — with an offer lo 
submit facts of which he was personally cognizant. The 
letter, unacknowledged, I here insert : 

Syracuse, New York, 

January 17, 1887. 
General J. H. Baker, Saint Paul, Minnesota. 

Dear Sir and Comrade: I have just learned through my brother, 
now in your city, that you are a member of the Minnesota Historical 
Society and take considerable interest in the controversy concerning the 
True Source of the Mississippi. It occurs to me that you might possibly 
like to be put in possession of a few facts i-elative to the mooted ques- 
tion. If I am right in this supposition, I shall be pleased to place at 
your disposal such matter as I have at my command, and in the mean- 
time, remain, 

Yours in F. C. and L., 

Willard Glazier. 

I subjoin a letter to Governor A. R. McGill of Minnesota. 
The intention of this Appendix is to give as nearly as possible 
a concise and truthful account of the controversy that fol- 
lowed upon the announcement of the discovery of the True 
Source of the Mississippi. A letter to the Governor was 
thought advisable at a time when the Historical Society's paid 
agents were publishing coarse and calumnious articles against 
Captain Glazier in a fruitless attempt to discredit him before 
the public. It is needless to add that in this case a courteous 
reply was received by the writer. 



appe:n^dix. 453 

• Camden, New Jersey, 

February 18, 1887. 
To Governor A. R. McGill, Saint Paul, Minnesota, 

Dear Sir: Permit me to address you on the subject of Captain 
Willard Glazier's claim to have located the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi River. It is the general belief that the opposition to this claim 
originated with a firm of school-book and map publishei'S in New York 
City, whose single motive was to advertise themselves and their wares, 
and this firm appears to have secured an advocate in a very active 
member of your State Historical Society, named Baker. This man has 
not scrupled in his attempts to discredit, and, if jjossible, dishonor my 
friend by an energetic and interested opposition to his claim to have 
been the first white man to locate the True Source of the Mississippi. 

And right here I will say, that from a long and most intimate 
acquaintance with Captain Willard Glazier, I know him to be eminently 
precise, cautious, exact, and conscientious in everything he saj'S and 
does, and would be the last man in the world to advance a theory that he 
knew to be groundless, or in the slightest degree open to question. 

His title to respectful consideration is founded, in a measure, on 
his honorable military record during the war of the Rebellion, and the 
authorship of several popular works— mostly relating to military affairs. 
He is scrupulously truthful, and his moral character, in every respect, 
beyond impeachment. 

In July, 1881, I assisted him in organizing his expedition to the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi; and although I did not accompany him 
beyond Saint Paul, am thoroughly posted on every step of his progress 
to Lake Itasca and the lake above it, which stands at the head of the 
Great River and is its True Source. 

Mr. Baker, who appears to be running the Minnesota Historical 
Society, has greatly belittled himself in the estimation of every one out- 
side the society by the malevolent course he is adopting. Captain 
Glazier has offered to pay one-half the expenses of a commission of com- 
petent engineers and surveyors to proceed to the lake he has located as 
the True Source, and to abide by their decision on the subject. Can any- 
thing be fairer or more liberal than this, or afford stronger proof of his 
honest faith in his discovery, and therefore of his title to be accredited 
with it? I have the honor to be, very respectfully. 

Your obedient servant, 

Pearce Giles. 

About the commencement of the year 1887, while at Syra- 
cuse, New York, Captain Glazier was advised by friends in 
Saint Paul that scurrilous and libelous articles were appearing 
in the local press concerning him, having reference to his 
claim to have located the Source of the Mississippi. News- 
papers reached him containing letters from his critics of 
the Historical Society, and the writers, not satisfied with 
denying his claim, attempted to injure him in public opinion 



454 APPEl^DIX. 

by denouncing him as " a fraud" and "an adventurer." 
He thereupon started for Saint Paul, and on his arrival in that 
city hastily wrote the subjoined letter. In this, no word 
unbecoming a gentleman appeared. He confined himself to 
placing the grounds of his claim before the reader, and made 
very little reference to the defamatory language of his tra- 
ducers. 

With reference to the proposition to the Historical Society, 
in the last paragraph of his letter, it is significant that no 
notice was taken of it, and if one may judge from the news- 
paper comment of the time, the learned society was afraid, if 
they accepted his liberal offer, that the "adventurer" might 
establish his claim and so place them in an undignified predica- 
ment before the public. 

Merchants' Hotel, 

Saint Paul, Minnesota, 

February 12, 1887. 

Editor Saint Paul Dispatch: I have come to Minnesota in 1887 to 
claim the credit which was very generally accorded me by press and 
people in 1881. I do not ask for anything which is not in justice mine, 
and if I am unable to win my case without descending to personalities 
and mud throwing^ I prefer to lose it. I was taught in the schools of 
the East that Lake Itasca was the source of the Mississippi River, and 
when I reached this State in 1881, ascertained that its title was still 
unquestioned by white men. To quote from my recent letter to the 
Pioneer Press: "Those who have been my most persistent critics in 
this controversy opened the battle with the assertion that Lake Itasca 
was the undoubted Source of the Mississippi, and that, at the time of my 
expedition, there was nothing of an exploratory character in Northern 
Minnesota . ■" How well they have been able to justify their position will 
be developed as we advance. 

For many years prior to 1881, I had been of the opinion that Lake 
Itasca occupied an erroneous position in our geography. In fact, I had 
become satisfied, through conversations with straggling Chippewas in 
the Northwest, that the red man's ideal river did not rise in the lake 
described by his white brother, but that there were other lakes and 
streams beyond that lake, and some day the truth of their statements 
would be verified. 

Thoroughly convinced that there was yet a field for exploration in 
Northern Minnesota, I resolved, in 1876, to attempt a settlement of the 
vexed question concerning the Source of the Mississippi, at an early day. 
Finding the opportunity I sought, in 1881, 1 came to Saint Paul in June of 
that year, accompanied by Pearce Giles of Camden, New Jersey. Here 
I was joined by my brother George of Chicago, and Barrett Channin^ 
P9,ine of the Pioneer Press. 



APPENDIX. 455 

Having completed arrangements, I left Saint Paul on the morning 
.of July fom-th, with Brainerd as our immediate objective. Short halts 
were made at Minneapolis, Monticello, Saint Cloud, and Little Falls, on 
our way up the I'iver. Brainerd was reached July seventh. This town is 
situated near the boundary of the Chippewa Indian Reservation, and is 
the nearest place of consequence to Lake Itasca. Here I again halted to 
further inform myself concerning the topography of the country; to 
decide upon the most feasible route to our destination, and to provide 
such extra supplies of rations, clothing, and general outfit as might be 
considered essential to the success of our undertaking. After consulting 
my maps, I concluded that while Schoolcraft and NicoUet had found 
Itasca by going up the river through Lakes Winnebegoshish, Cass, and 
Bemidji, the most direct course would be by way of Leech Lake and 
Kabekanka River. ' 

A careful study of the route to Leech Lake, with a few valuable 
suggestions from Warren Leland, one of the oldest residents of Brainerd, 
led us to seek conveyance to the former place over what is known in 
Northern Minnesota as the Government Road. 

While at the Leech Lake Indian Agency, we obtained valuable 
information concerning the peculiar characteristics of the Indians on 
the Chippewa Reservation. At this place, it was our good fortune to 
meet the Post Missionary, Rev. Edwin Benedict; Major A. C. Ruffee, the 
Indian Agent; Paul Beaulieu, the veteran Government Interpreter; 
Flatmouth, head chief of the Chippewas; White Cloud, chief of the 
Mississippis, and several others, well known at the Agency. Through 
conversations with these parties, I learned that pioneers of that region 
were of the opinion that the lake located by Schoolcraft was the Source of 
the Mississippi; but the Indians invariably claimed that the Great River 
had its Origin in a beautiful lake above, and beyond, Itasca. Paul Beau- 
lieu, who is perhaps the best authority in Minnesota on the subject, hav- 
ing lived for more than sixty years within its borders, said, in substance, 
that Chenowagesic, the most intelligent Chippewa of his acquaintance, 
had made the Itasca region his home for many years, and that he had 
always asserted, when maps were shown him, that a lake above Itasca 
would in time change a feature of those maps, and confirm his statement 
that " Lake Itasca could not longer maintain its claim to being the fount- 
ain-head of Ke-chee-see-bee, or Great River, which is named May-see- 
see-be by the Chippewas." 

Three days were spent at Leech Lake, during which time we 
secured an interpreter, Indian guides, and birch-bark canoes. Every- 
thing being in order, we launched our canoes on the morning of July 
seventeenth, wishing, as previously explained, to approach Itasca by a 
different route from that employed by Schoolcraft and Nicollet, who 
went up the Mississippi from Lake Winnebegoshish. I crossed Leech 
Lake, and ascended the Kabekanka River, thence in a direct westerly 
course, through twenty-one lakes, alternated by as many portages, 
reaching Itasca between two and three o'clock on the afternoon of the 
twenty-first. 

The work of coasting Itasca for its feeders was begun at an early 




(456) 



APPEIS-DIX. 457 

hour on the morning of the twenty-second. We found the outlets of six 
small streams, two having well-defined mouths, and four fi^ltering into 
the lake through bogs. The upper end of the southwestern arm of 
Itasca is heavily margined with reeds aud rushes, and it was not without 
considerable difficulty that we forced our way through this barrier into 
the larger of the two open streams which enter at this point. This 
stream, at its mouth, is seven feet wide and three feet deep. Slow and 
tortuous progress of between two and three hundred yards, brought us 
to a blockade of logs and shallow water. Determined to float in my 
canoe upon the surface of the lake toward which we were paddling, I 
directed the guides to remove the obstructions, and continued to urge 
the canoes rapidly forward, although opposed by a strong and con- 
stantly increasing current. On pulling and pushing our way through a 
network of rushes, similar to that encountered on leaving Itasca, the 
cheering sight of a transparent body of water burst upon our view. 

This lake, the Chippewa name of which is Pokegama, is about a 
mile and a r.alf in its greatest diameter, and would be nearly an oval in 
form but for a single promontory at its southei'n extremity, which 
extends its shores into the lake so as to give it in outline the appearance 
of a heart. Its principal feeders are three creeks, two of which enter 
on the right and left of the headland, and have their origin in springs 
at the foot of sand hills from two to three miles distant. The third 
stream is but little more than a mile in length, and is the outlet of a 
small lake situated to the southwestward. 

Assuming that the statements of my party are clearly indisputable 
concerning the lake which I claim as the Source, it must be admitted: 

I. That Lake Itasca can not longer be maintained as the Fountain- 
head, for the reason that it is the custom, agreeably to the definition of 
geographers, to fix upon the remotest water, and a lake if possible, as 
the source of a river. 

II. That Schoolcraft coald not have seen the lake located by me, 
else he would have pronounced it the Source, placed it upon his map, 
and described it as such. 

III. Nicollet, who followed Schoolci^af t, could not have been aware 
of its existence, as he gives it no place upon his map, or description in 
the narrative of his expedition. 

IV. The Government survey is in error in showing that the outlet of 
the lakelet to the southwest of my lake debouches in Lake Itasca. 

Whatever the verdict, and regardless of the name applied to it, the 
lake to the south of Itasca was certainly not known to the white inhabit- 
ants of Northern Minnesota prior to 1881. Lake Itasca was still recog- 
nized as the Origiu of the river, was placed upon the maps, and taught 
as such in all the schools of the country. 

I simply claim to have established the fact that there is a beautiful 
lake above and beyond Itasca, wider and deeper than that lake, with 
woodland shores, with three constantly flowing streams for its feeders, 
and in every way worthy of the position ib occupies as the Primal Reser- 
voir—the True Source of the Father of Waters. 

In conclusion, it was with no intent to deprive Schoolcraft, Nicollet, 



458 APPENDIX. 

or any other explorer who preceded, me of their well-earned laurels, that 
I announced the True Source of the Mississippi. Having entered the lake 
to the south of Itasca and definitely located its feeders, I became satisfied 
that it was the Primal Reservoir of the Great River, and so announced it 
to the geographical world. This is the head and front of my offending. 

The Minnesota Historical Society has now re-afiflrmed that Lake 
Itasca is the Fountain-head. If this is true, then "Lake Glazier" is of 
little more importance than any other of the ten thousand lakes of 
Minnesota. If I am right and the Historical Society is wrong, then I 
submit, in the.name of justice, am I not at least entitled to considerate 
treatment? 

So confident am I of the rightfulness of my claim, that I make this 
proposition to the Minnesota Historical Society, that this question may 
be settled for all time: That the gentleman who introduced biU "No. 
20'i,''' withdraw the same and substitute one of the following tenor: That 
the Legislature commission three persons, one to be selected by the 
Governor, one by the American Geographical Society, and one by myself, 
who shall be empowered to employ competent surveyors to visit the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi, and report their decision on this matter to 
the next session of the Legislature of this State, for the passage of a bill 
formulated on their investigations and findings. 

If this is done I will, as I have before offered to do, deposit in 

some National bank of Saint Paul sufficient funds to cover one-half the 

expense of the expedition, provided the Minnesota Historical Society, or 

any person or persons, will furnish the other half. Can I offer a fairer 

proposition? If not accepted, my case is prejudged. If accepted, let the 

State of Minnesota and the geographical world abide the issue, as I am 

willing to do. 

WiLLARD Glazier. 

Rev. Joha C. Crane of West Millbury, Massachusetts, a 
writer and recognized authority la the East upon matters per- 
taining to general history, science, and geography, expressed 
hU views on tlie claim of Captain Glazier in the foUowing 

letter to the Saint Paul Dispatch: 

West Millbury, 

December 10, 1888. 
Editor Saint Paul Dispatch: 

My attention has been called to the communication of J. V. Brower, 
pubhshed in a Saint Paul paper recently. All the letters in oppo- 
sition to the claim of Captain Glazier show so much spite and venom 
against the Captain that I can not refrain from lending him a hand, 
although I think him well able to take care of himself. In the map 
published with the Brower article in the Pioneer Press, he tries to 
prove that the lake south of Itasca, which is found to be wider and 
deeper than the lake of Schoolcraft, is not the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi. I make the statement that what he says is the Source is nothing 
but an insignificant lakelet or pond compared with the Glazier lake. 
A glance at the map of that region will convince any one in possession 



APPE^-DIXc 459 

of an unprejudiced mind, which is the largest lake in that region beyond 
Itasca with requisite feeders and all the requirements of the Source of a 
river. A puddle among the sand hills, dribbling its tribute along, can 
not dispute the right of Lake Glazier. Mr. Brower claims that a pond 
to the west of the Glazier lake is the Source. But in this his own map 
contradicts him, as on that map his Source and the stream entering the 
west arm of Itasca would be much farther to the north than Lake Gla- 
zier, and therefore can not be the Source. I have no hesitation in saying 
that Captain Glazier was cognizant of all that Mr. Brower claims. I 
know the region well, and don"'t believe that an Indian can be foun 1 in 
that locality but will say that he believes Lake Glazier to be the Primal 
Reservoir, and therefore the Head of the Father of Waters. With one 
feU swoop of Brewer's pen, one lake of Nicollet disappears; the Govern- 
ment surveyors of that region have clanked their chains and stuck their 
pins in the wrong place. It was reserved for a party of hunters, "out 
for a day's shooting," to discover in a frog-pond the fountain-head of 
the mightiest river in our land. Schoolcraft says that " the True Source 
of a river is a point at the remotest distance from its mouth," but con- 
nected with this statement are other points to be considered. The pro- 
portions of the lakes claimed as the Source, and the depth of water, are 
also to be taken into account. Shall we ignore PoTcegama, or Lak^ Gla- 
zier, two miles long, a mile and a half wide, and forty-five feet deep, for 
an insignificant pond? Thirty years ago the writer was a resident of 
Minnesota, and even then the idea was advanced that Itasca was not the 
Source of the Great River. For a long time after Captain Glazier 
announced the lake named after him by his companions as the True 
Source, no one disputed the truthfulness of his claim. Few men have 
had so many ovations from individuals and societies as he. Jealous 
and interested parties since that time have sought to stamp out his 
claim and the author of it. If these gentlemen are sincere in their 
desire to settle this much-discussed question as to the True Source of the 
river, why do they not accept Captain Glazier's proposition? He has 
offered to pay one-half the cost of an expedition, fully equipped, that 
shall settle the question on its merits, if his opponents will pay the 
other half. The fact is they dare not do it. Time has only strengthened 
Captain Glazier in the belief that his lake is the True Source of the 
Mississippi. In that belief the writer coincides. 

One word and I have done. Mr. Brower, in his article in the Pioneer 
Press, alludes to the "so-called Captain Willard Glazier." If holding a 
captain's commission, bearing the broad seal of the great Empii'e State, 
in one of the companies of a daring cavalry regiment, and tasting the 
horrors of nearly all the rebel prisons in the late war does not entitle a 
man to be called "Captain," then I should like to be informed what 
qualifications are necessary. J. C. Crane. 

Bearing upon the subject of the True Source of the 
Great River, the following from a " Student " of the question, 
resident in the East, will be found apt and well reasoned: 



460 APPEITDIX. 

Rochester, February 20, 1887. 
Editor Saint Paul Dispatch : 

Your paper of the 18th inst. has just come under my notice. You 
say that the State Historical Society proposes to sit down on Captain 
Willard Glazier's claini to have located the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi. From information that has reached me, I am of the opinion that 
not many intelligent citizens of Minnesota will be found to "sit down" 
with them. One thing is certain: that Itasca is not the Source. No one 
in his senses will now affirm that it is; and if the lake to the south of it, 
and falling into it, is not the Source, where is it to be found? The lakelet 
to the southwest— marked " Alice '' on the Glazier map— which empties 
into Lake Glazier, is simply a feeder of the newly located Source, and, 
according to the Glazier survey, is erroneously marked on the Land- 
office map as falling into Lake Itasca. This little fact makes all the dif- 
ference in the world. 

Captain Glazier's opponents will find it uphill work to convince 

sensible men that the True Source of the Mississippi is not in the lake in 

which he has placed it. If this lake had been seen before he visited it in 

1881, he was certainly the first man, as it appears to me, to announce it to 

the world as the True Source, and should, in common fairness, have the 

credit that attaches to a first discovery. 

Student. 

An open letter from Captain Willard Glazier to the Minne- 
sota Historical Society, published widely in Minnesota and the 
Stages bordering upon the Mississippi: 

Philadelphia, March 20, 1889. 
To the President and Members of the Minnesota Historical Society. 

Gentlemen: I have just noticed in the Saint Paul papers that the 
question of the Source of the Great River is again occupying your atten- 
tion, although I had long since concluded that the several expeditions 
which have followed mine of 1881 had sufficiently enlightened your hon- 
orable body upon the mooted topic to enable you to make satisfactory 
deductions as to the veracity and validity of my published statements. 

It is now nearly eight years since I published the fact that Lake Itasca 
was not the Source of the Mississippi, but that another lake to the south 
of it was the Fountain-head of the river. During the interval that has 
elapsed since 1881, 1 have been criticised by a few persons, some of whom 
claim to have visited the region, and by others who have never been within 
hundreds of miles of it. At this late date, however, nearly eight years 
after my announcement, and notwithstanding the silly antagonism of a 
few opponents, I am as firmly convinced as I was on the twenty second 
day of July, 1881, that the heart-shaped lake to the south of Itasca, and 
falling into the latter, is the True Source of the Mississippi, and that 
Lake Itasca, therefore, has no title whatever to this distinction. I have 
been before the world for many years, and am well known to thousands 
of my fellow-countrjonen, not one of whom, I venture to say, would 
accuse me of ever stating what I did not beUeve to be true. Yet these 



APPENDIX. 461 

would-be critics and detractors have not scrupled to charge me with falsi- 
fying, and almost every other crime short of murder in the first degree, 
because I have had the temerity to assert, and re-assert, the truth upon 
a subject about which I am thoroughly cognizant, and of which I have 
no more doubt than I have of the existence of the Mississippi itself, or 
of my own identity. 

What possible excuse there can be for visiting that region at a time 
when the locality is covered with ice and snow, is to me and many others 
incomprehensible. Pei'mit me to express the honest conviction that per- 
sonal consideration for two or three persons in the great State of Minne- 
sota appears to have had more influence in the deliberations of your 
society, than a desire to establish a geographical truth. Those who 
have been recently commissioned to report on the topography of the 
country at the Headwaters of the Mississippi, are apparently visiting 
that section with the aim, and probably the determination, of disproving 
me, the quibbling of their letters to the press showing most clearly that 
they are gone in search of anything but geographical facts. If it really 
was the opinion of your learned body that another expedition was nec- 
essary to remove all doubt upon the subject, why dispatch an individual 
on this mission who is well known to you to be personally inimical to me. 
Why not have appointed some one to represent my side of the question, 
or at least some one known to be unprejudiced and disinterested? Can 
it be possible that you have forgotten my offer made two years ago, 
when this question was under discussion before the Legislature? Believ- 
ing, then, that it was your wish to see fair play, and that you desired to 
go on record as advocates of the truth, I respectfully submitted: "That 
the Legislature commission three persons, one to be selected by the Gov- 
ernor, one by the American Geographical Society, and one by myself, 
who were to be empowei-ed to employ competent surveyors, visit the 
region, and report their decision to the next Legislature of your State, 
with a view to the passage of a bill on the subject. If this is done," I 
added, "I will deposit in some National bank of Saint Paul sufficient 
funds to cover one-half the expense of the expedition, provided the 
Minnesota Historical Society, or any person or persons, wiU guarantee 
the other half. If not accepted, my case is prejudged. If accepted, let 
the State of Minnesota and the geographical world abide the issue, as I 
am willing to do." This proposition was submitted February 12, 1887, 
and I felt much gratified at the time that my proffer to your society was 
received with general approval by the press throughout the country, and 
that your local papers were especially pleased, and pronounced it just 
and fair. But notwithstanding this, and my willingness to meet you 
half-way in any movement tending to a just and impai*tial decision upon 
the merits of the question, the impression at Saint Paul seemed to be, 
that, having been drawn into an error, you would employ no one to repre- 
sent you who was not committed or pledged to your side of the contro- 
versy. Is this a fair and proper course to pvu-sue ? Would it not inspire 
greater confidence in your candor and impartiality to have the investi- 
gation made by entirely disinterested persons, on whose report full reli- 
ance could be placed? I feel sure that a -majority of the members of 



462 APPEKBIX. 

your society have a sufficient sense of honor to realize that it is very 
unfair to employ two persons to investigate and report upon a subject 
which has engaged the attention of half a dozen others, one of the for- 
mer having, as is well known, prejudged the case, and avowed himself a 
bitter opponent to me — although I have never, to my knowledge, seen 
the man or held any communication with him. I am confident you will 
candidly admit that nothing can be more inequitable than to commission 
a majp to confirm himself and disprove his adversary, without giving the 
latter even a hearing. The apparent anxiety of certain members of 
your society would seem to indicate that there is considerable uncer- 
tainty in your camp as to the late reports of J. V. Brower and others 
upon whom you have relied for a correct statement of facts, and I shall 
not be surprised, if in the end you arrive at the conclusion that their 
veracious reports are very contradictory, and therefore altogether 
' untrustworthy. If Mr. Brewer's first statement of his views, published 
in the Pioneer Press, was an honest presentation of the case, what 
ground can there be now for sending him out a second time to make 
another report, in which, of course, he will not fail to verify himself. 

If my memory serves me, it was the argument of your society, in 
1887, that Lake Itasca was the source of the Mississippi, and that nothing 
beyond this lake was worthy of consideration. Now that I have, in the 
opinion of thousands, established to the contrary, j^ou do not, I believe, 
assume that Itasca is the Primal Reservoir; but, in order to throw dis- 
credit upon my announcement of 1881, you dispatch a delegation of one 
or two individuals to that quarter, for the well-understood purpose of 
giving prominence to two or three ponds and rivulets which have a doubt- 
ful existence during the summer months. This conduct, gentlemen, is 
im worthy of an institution claiming the title of " Historical Society," and 
I have faith to beUeve that the great majority of the intelligent and 
fair-minded citizens of Minnesota, in and out of your society, will be 
disposed to place the credit of locating the True Source of the Mississippi 
where it properly belongs. 

Permit me to inquire again, what excuse you have for your latest 
expedition? Have you not already accepted the statements of those who 
followed me? Why not accept their maps as conclusive, instead of send- 
ing them back to re-investigate their first investigation. Has not this 
flimsy farce been carried far enough? Have you sent J. V. Brower back 
to the scene of his late operations for the reason that Ms maps confirm 
my statements? If so, I fear eternity itself will find you only at the 
threshold of your researches. 

I conclude by re-asserting that the lake to the south of Itasca, and 

connected therewith by a perennial stream, is the Primal Reservoir or 

True Source of the Mississippi; that it was not so considered prior to the 

visit of my expedition, in 1881, and that my party was the first to locate 

its feeders correctly, and discover its true relation to the Great River. 

I have the honor to be, 

Very respectfully yours, 

WiLLARD GlAZIEK. 

The Minneapolis Spectator is the leading literary journal of 



APPEKDIX. ■ 463 

that city, and contains, among other valuable matter, com- 
ments on current topics. The following contribution is from 
a lady who appears to have given some attention to the subject: 

315 Market Street, 
Camden, New Jersey, March 10, 1889. 
Editor Minneapolis Spectator: 

From time to time, in taking up a newspaper, I have noticed various 
comments and opinions concerning the location of the True Source of 
the Mississippi, and on Captain Glazier's claim to the discovery Avhich 
removes old Itasca from the prominent position she has held so long, to 
give place to a more potent, although smaller, rival. Apropos of this 
subject, I have read with great interest a recent letter in the Saint Paul 
Dispatch, setting forth very convincingly, to my mind, the vahdity of 
Captain Glazier's claims, and making his position unassailable, except 
by those in whom a certain animus is not wanting, as in the case of Mr. 
Fletcher Williams, Secretary of the Historical Society, Saint Paul, whose 
weak and spasmodic attacks call forth my indignation. 

The only concern I have in the matter springs from a love of fair 
play, which is an instinct, I suppose, common to most of us; and the 
interest of the rising generation, the "young idea," which may be erro- 
neously led to " shoot"" in the wrong direction, when in three-fourthg of 
the schools the pupils are taught that Itasca must give place to Glazier, 
and in the other fourth, not that there is no Lake Glazier, but that it is 
such an infant as yet that they want Itasca to hold the reins a few years 
longer, even if the school children do run the risk of not giving a correct 
answer to the question, "What is the Source of the Mississippi?" Mr. 
Fletcher Williams would evidently hke to ignore Captain Glazier's claims 
if he could do so. 

Mr. Williams I as the secretary of the State Historical Society, you 
ought to be above using scurrilous language. Let Mr. Wilhams study 
up his subject and not attack a man whose claims, to quote one of our 
geographies, " are emphatically supported by the overwhelming testi- 
mony of hundreds of the most competent and distinguished authorities 
in the NorthAvest," on the strength of the disbelief of himself and thi'ee 
or four of his friends, who in all probability have never seen the Source 
of the Mississippi. If it is so easy, as Mr. Williams claims, to prove 
Captain Glazier in error, why not do so? If it is not worth while to do 
so, why does Mr. Williams enter into the question at all? Is it from a 
weakness for casting opprobi'ious names at an adversary who is known 
to thousands to be worthy only of respect? 

T take a further interest in the question from having been one of 
a party who discussed the subject in the Jamestown public schools 
some few years ago. We read everything we could find pertaining to it, 
from Schoolcraft to Glazier, and unanimously agreed upon giving Captain 
Glazier the credit of the discovery, in the absence of well-supported 
denials of his claim. It is abimdantly clear that the lake claimed by 
Captain Glazier was entirely tmrecognized by the geographical world, 



464 APPE^-DIX. 

including Messrs. Schoolcraft and Nicollet, up to the year 1881, the datd 
of the Glazier expedition. If Mr. Williams has determined to take Lake 
Glazier from us, wbat will he substitute as the true source, for all 
geographers and historical societies agree now that Itasca has had its 
day, and can never more gain recognition as the head of our greatest 

river. 

Let our discoverer have his laurels and wear them now, not waiting, 
as many of our great explorers have done, for their achievements to be 
blazoned forth only after death has claimed them. The knowledge that 
their efforts have been recognized and appreciated in this life is far 
more to them than any posthumous honors can be. That Captain 
Glazier's claims will be universally recognized sooner or later is an 
axiom that can not be gainsaid. 

Yours for the right and fair play, 

Mrs. F. K. Hunt. 

A New Yorker pays his respects to J. V, Brower, and 
criticises liis report in the Pioneer Press: 

New York, May 30, 1889. 
Editor Winona Republican, Minnesota: 

I have just noticed in one of your Saint Paul contemporaries, an 
article with the singular heading, " Lakes like Links Secretly Connect 
the Plateau Reservoir with the Mississippi's Apparent Source." 

The article with this incomprehensible heading is accompanied 
by an imperfect and very inaccurate map of the Headwaters of the 
Mississippi. The writer— J. V. Bi'ower, I presume— as usual, affects an 
authoritative tone, and if his readers allow themselves to be duped by his 
inflated and positive style of treating the subject, they will find them- 
selves egregiously in error in the matter of the correct location of the 
Source of the Mississippi. 

As was observed by a writer in a lata issue of the Saint Paul Dis- 
patch, this person was altogether unfitted to undertake the task assigned 
him by certain members of your Historical Society, inasmuch as he 
had predetermined, at any cost, to deprive Glazier of his well-earned 
laurels. The report now before me is all fustian. This Lake No. 3 is 
little more than a puddle, having no permanent connection with the 
Mississippi, a fact he would soon discover if he went out there in July 
or August; whereas the stream uniting his "Elk " Lake and Lake Itasca 
is perennial. 

The dimensions he gives of No. 3 on his map are out of all pro- 
portion to its real size; compared with the Glazier Source it is simply 
an insignificant pond, and no part of it extends farther south than 
the lake he persists in calhng ' Elk Lake '—which the geographer 
designates " Lake Glazier." This latter body of water covers an area of 
255 acres, whereas Lake No. 3— named on the Glazier map "Wolf Pond " 
—is less than 30 acres in extent. Again: The comparative distances 
Brower gives between the two lakes (Glazier and No. 3) and Lake Itasca, 
viz., 8,315 feet and 1,100 feet, are altogether misleading; but this is a 



appe:j^dix. 465 

matter of little importance, as the southern extremity of Lake Glazier 
extends in reality considerably farther south than No. 3 (Wolf Pond) . 
Lake Glazier is the only respectable body of water to the south of 
Itasca that presents a shadow of claim to be considered the Head of the 
Great River, and Avith all deference to the Fletcher Williams' clique, 
it will be held to be the True Source of the Father of Waters until the 
next cataclysm deprives us of the Mississippi, and the flourishing city of 
Saint Paul on its banks. Gotham. 



30 



D. 

VOICE OF THE PRESS. 

The opposition to the Glazier claim of a few recalcitrant 
members of the Minnesota Historical Society, who still 
persisted in their adherence to the Itasca of Schoolcraft, had 
the effect of inciting inquiry into the merits and authenticity 
of the important discovery that Lake Itasca possessed no title 
whatever to the distinction so long conferred upon it, of 
standing at the Head of our matchless river. The attention 
of the Press throughout this country, Canada, and Europe 
has, since 1881, been frequently occupied with the question 
herein discussed, and geographers and others have contributed 
to it their views on the subject, in which the general belief 
prevails that Itasca is not the Source of the river, and that the 
fine lake to the south, unknown to Schoolcraft or Nicollet, or 
to the public, until located by the First Glazier Expedition, 
is the Primal Reservoir or Fountain-head of the Mississippi. 
In confirmation of this, I invite attention to the opinions of 
the Press of many cities. 



Saint Paul Dispatch. 

". . . We are glad to be able to sustain anew the legitimate claims 
of this brave and adventurous man. "We believe that, had he lived in the 
times when heroism of the grandest type was an essential to the conduct 
of Mississippi exploration, he would not have been found wanting in the 
quaUties which, in those days, did so much to aid one's faith in the 
innate grandeur of human character. . . . Captain Glazier set out to 
test the correctness of the generally accepted theories of scholars as to 
the place of the rise of the Mississippi River; he made the test, and found 
that those theories were not correct. He has given to the world the 
record of his discovery, and, if we are not wholly at fault, he has done 
much to perpetuate his own name thereby."" 



Northwestern Presbyterian, Minneapolis. 

"All who live in the valley of America's greatest river will be 
especially interested in knowing something of its Source, its course, and 
the cities that line its banks. Since De Soto first discovered the Father 

(466) 



APPB]S"DIX. 467 

of Waters, in 1541, many eminent explorers have been associated with its 
history. Marquette, Joliet, La Salle, Hennepin, La Hontan, Charlevoix, 
Carver, Pike, Cass, and Beltrami preceded Schoolcraft. The last named 
discovered a lake which he supposed to be the Source, but the Indians 
and the missionaries said there was a lake beyond. A learned few 
believed them. It remained for some explorer to make further investi- 
gation, and publish the truth more widely to the world. This was done 
by Captain Glazier, in 1881, who visited the lake, explored its shores, and 
found it to be wider and deeper than Itasca." 



Saint Paul Times. 

*'. . . Captain Glazier's claims are supported emphatically by the 
overwhelming testimony of thousands of the most distinguished and 
competent authorities in the Northwest. Glazier undoubtedly expended 
much time and treasure in investigating not only the Source of the 
Mississippi, but the geography and history of the entire river, from its 
Source to the Gulf. . . . The leading map publishers have indorsed 
his claims, and do so in a way that leaves no doubt that they place 
implicit confidence in him as a careful and trustworthy geographer and 
historian. Rand, McNally & Co, and George F. Cram of Chicago; 
Matthews, Northrup & Co. of Buffalo; A. S. Barnes & Co. of New York; 
University Publishing Company of New York; W. & A. K. Johnston of 
Edinburgh, Scotland; MacMillan & Co., London and New York; W. M. 
Bradley & Brother, Philadelphia, and many others of the leading pub- 
lishing houses, who have a heavy personal interest in investigating the 
accuracy of everything they publish, acknowledge Captain Glazier's 
claims by accepting his views, and reproducing them in their books and 
maps. The press, bar, pulpit, and Legislature of the State of Minnesota 
give assent, through many of their leading members, to the position of 
Captain Glazier."" 

Chicago Times. 

•• The most interesting portion of Captain Glazier's ' Down the Great 
River ' is the beginning, where the author gives the details of an expedi- 
tion made, in 1881, by himself with five companions, when he claims, with 
good grounds, to have fixed the actual True Source of the Great River. 
His attention was called, in 1876, to the fact that, though everybody 
knows the mouth of the stream, there was then much uncertainty about 
the Source. In 1881, he found time to organize the expedition named, and 
crossing the country to Itasca, embarked and pushed through that lake 
up a stream flowing into it, and came upon another considerable body of 
water fed by three streams originating in springs at the foot of a 
curved range of hills some miles farther on. This lake he fixed upon as 
the True Soiu-ce, and since his published accormts many geographers 
and map workers have modified their works according to his discoveries. 
He claims to have been the first to discover and establish the fact that it 
is the highest link in a chain in which Itasca is another; or, in other 
words, the True Source of the river. The Indian name of the lake is 
Pokegama, and this, the author says, he would have retained, but was 



468 APPENDIX. 

overruled by the other five, who insisted on calling it Lake Glazier. 
For the particulars of the interesting story the reader must be referred 
to the volume itself. Captain Glazier is an old traveler and a practiced 
writer. The manner of his journey down the Mississippi enabled him to 
see well all there was to see, and he enables his readers to see also." 



Chicago Herald. 

" For half a century or more it has been understood that Lake Itasca 
was the Source of the Mississippi River, but Captain Willard Glazier has 
exploded this theory by a canoe voyage undertaken in 1881. The results 
of his investigations were given to geographers at the time and accepted 
as satisfactory and complete. Maps were at once changed by the map 
publishers, and Lake Glazier, a tributary of Lake Itasca, was set down 
as the True Source of the ' Father of Waters.' The story of Captain 
Glazier's adventures is told by him in a book entitled ' Down the Great 
River,' which is entertaining as well as being of importance as a con- 
tribution to the geography and history of this country. Together with 
two companions and several guides, Glazier first discovered that the lake 
now bearing his name was the True Source of the Great River, and then 
journeyed by canoe from that point to the mouth of the Mississippi, a 
distance of 3,184 miles." 



Chicago Inter Ocean. 

'•Readers of 'Soldiers of the Saddle,' 'Capture, Prison-Pen, and 
Escape,' and other writings of Captain Glazier, will require no m'ging to 
read the entertaining volume ' Down the Great River.' It is an account 
of the discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi River, with pic- 
torial and descriptive views of cities, towns, and scenery gathered from a 
canoe voyage from its Headwaters to the Gulf. For fifty years Ameri- 
can youth have been taught that * the Mississippi rises in Lake Itasca,' 
until Captain Glazier, in this memorable journey of one hundred and sev- 
enteen days in his canoe demonstrated the error, and mapped the facts 
so accurately as to settle the question for all time. Leading geographers 
and educational publishers have already made changes in their maps, and 
given due credit to Captain Glazier and his new lake. To say the Mis- 
sissippi rises in Lake Glazier is only doing simple justice to the intrepid 
explorer, and hero of many battles." 



Chicago Evening Journal. 

" However the knowledge may affect the world at large that the 
Source of the mighty Mississippi is other than generations of geography 
students have been taught that it was, there is little doubt left that we 
have all been in the wrong about it, and that this most peerless river 
was born, not in Itasca's sparkling springs, but in another wider and 
deeper body of water that lies still farther south and bears the name of 
its discoverer— Lake Glazier. ..." 



Detroit Commercial Advertiser. 
Captain Glazier undoubtedly accomplished a great work. 



APPENDIX. 469 

■-» 
The source of the Mississippi had ever been an unsettled question, 
unsatisfactory attempts at discovery having been made and various ill- 
founded claims put forward; *but the subject for the last half century 
has been constantly agitated. It remained for Captain Glazier to finish 
the work begun byDe Soto in 15-11, and positively locate the True Fount- 
ain-head. . . . That the lake from which the Great River starts, 
known by the Indians as Lake Pokegama, should be re-named Lake 
Glazier, seems an appropriate honor for the resolute explorer. . . , "" 



New York Students'' Journal. 

" . . . Captain Willard Glazier discovered the True Source of the 
Mississippi River. This discovery is one of the most important contribu- 
tions to the geography of this country during the past half century. 
It seems marvelous that, up to the year 1881, the geography of one of 
the States of the Union was so poorly known that it had hitherto been 
supposed that Lake Itasca was the Source of the great Father of 
Waters.'' 



Brooklyn Eagle. 

" Captain Glazier's very clear map of the Great River shows the True 
Source to be south of Lake Itasca— accepted by Schoolcraft in 1832 as the 
Headwaters, in disregard of the stream entering its southwestern arm. 
. . . To Captain Glazier belongs the identification of the Fountain- 
head of the Mississippi." 



Popular Science Monthly. 

"In 'Down the Great River,' Captain Glazier relates the story In fuU 
of his journey in 1881, by the aid of an Indian guide, 'across country,' 
from Brainerd, Minnesota, to 'Lake Glazier,' south of Itasca Lake, and 
his determination of it as the real source of the Mississippi River. . . . 
Lake Glazier is in latitude about 47° N., is 1,585 feet above the level of 
the sea, and is 3,184 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. Its area is less than 
that of Lake Itasca, but it is deeper and contains more water than 
the latter. . . . The story of the explorer's journey is very pleasantly 
narrated." 



Philadelphia Dispatch. 

"... In 1832, Henry Ro we Schoolcraft reached Lake Itasca, but 
failed to search for its feeders, and thus missed the discovery of the True 
Source of the Mississippi. Jean Nicolas Nicollet reached the same point 
four years later, and was satisfied that his journey was successfully con- 
cluded. Nothing further Avas done for forty-five years, during which 
time it was believed that Lake Itasca was the Source; but Captain Gla- 
zier pushed his explorations farther, and, by following a feeder of Lake 
Itasca, was rewarded by discovering, to the south of Itasca, a beautiful 
body of water a mile and a half wide. This was the True Source. His 
labors were promptly recognized by various learned societies and by 
scientists and geographers, and to-day the lake, which bears the name 
of the discoverer, is acknowledged to be the Primal Resei'voir of the 
Great River." 



470 APPEITDIX. 

Grand Rapids Telegram-Herald. 

"... Captain Glazier, in his search for the True Source of the 
Mississippi, has corrected a geographical error of half a century, and 
located the fountain-head in a lake above and beyond Lake Itasca. He 
discovered this lake on the twenty- second day of July, 1881, Chenowage- 
sic, a Chippewa brave, being his guide. The lake, out of which flows 
the infant Mississippi, is about two miles in its greatest diameter. Its 
Indian name is Pokegama, but Glazier's companions insisted on naming 
it after their leader. . . .'' 



Albany Argus. 

" Readers of newspapers are doubtless familiar with the controversy 
as to the True Source of the Mississippi. Captain Willard Glazier, known 
as the writer of a number of popular works, made an expedition, in 1881, 
in search of the starting point of the Great River. Reaching Brainerd, 
on the Mississippi, he crossed the country to Leech Lake. Here, on July 
17th, he launched his canoes and paddled through the Portage River and a 
chain of lakes lying to the west of Leech Lake. With a few detours he 
came to Lake Itasca, which had heretofore been popularly accepted as 
the source of the river. Coasting around this for tributaiies, he found a 
creek due south which connected with a beautiful lake about two miles 
in diameter. ... As this seemed to meet the geographical require- 
ments, being the most distant portion of tributary water from the mouth, 
it was pronounced to be the Source, and the Indian name, Pokegama, 
changed to Lake Glazier by the companions of the explorer." 



Boston Traveler. 

"In 1881 Captain Willard Glazier determined to test his theory, and 
that of several other geographers, that Lake Itasca was not the real 
soiu-ce of the Mississippi, and imdertook an expedition fraught with 
innumerable difficulties, but successful in establishing the correctness of 
his belief. For beyond Lake Itasca, and connected with it by a stream, 
he found another lake nearly as large as Itasca, and which proved to be 
the True Source of the Great River." 



Boston Commonwealth. 
" Captain Willard Glazier, whose writings are so widely and favorably 
known, achieved probably the most lasting reputation in 1881, when he 
made his expedition to the Source of the Mississippi. The resiilts of that 
expedition he has put in a book. Starting from Saint Paul on the 4th of 
July, 1881, equipped with canoes and accompanied by Indian guides, he 
set forth with the object of ascertaining if Lake Itasca were really the 
source of the ' Father of Waters,' as had been so long supposed. He 
reached Lake Itasca, and after a careful examination of this lake, discov- 
ered that it was not the head of the river, but that there was a lake still 
higher up, to which he pushed on with his canoes through a narrow inlet. 
This lake has since been known by the name of its discoverer, ' Lake 
Glazier,' and has been accepted by geographical authorities as in reality 
the True Source of the great American River." 



APPEKDIX. 471 

Philadelphia Evening Telegraph. 

" It appears quite clear that Lake Itasca never possessed any title to 
the honor conferred upon it by Schoolcraft, in 1832, of giving birth to 
our magnificent river. One reason alone is given to account for our 
ignorance of its True Source, namely, it was outside the usual track of 
the fur traders, and in a region scarcely ever visited by Indians or white 
men. Schoolcraft had pronounced Itasca to be the Source, and no 
one up to the date of Captain Glazier's explorations felt sufficiently 
interested in the matter to investigate or dispute its claim. . . . 

" It was long suspected that the Mississippi had its Fountain-head 
higher up than Lake Itasca, and in July, 1881, an Expedition led by Cap- 
tain Willard Glazier discovered a lake to the south of Itasca, a mile and 
a half in diameter, and falling into the latter by a permanent stream. 
Beyond this there is no water connected with the river, and hence Lake 
Glazier is now recognized as the True Source of the Mississippi." 



Chicago Geographical Neios. 

". . . The real facts in the case are that all the investigations 
made since Captain Glazier's discovery tend to show very conclusively 
that the True Source of the river is in the lake lying a short distance 
south of Itasca; and that Glazier was the first who discovered and pro- 
claimed the Source to be in that lake. This being the case, it seems but 
just that the honor of the discovery should be no longer withheld from 
him. At all events, our school geographies should teach the truth as to 
where the Source really is.'' 

The Buffalo Times. 

". . . The source of the Great River has been sought for at dif- 
ferent times by travelers of nearly every nationahty. In 1805, the United 
States Government sent Lieutenant Pike to explore the region in which 
the Mississippi was supposed to have its origin; and in 1820, Governor 
Cass of Michigan undertook a similar task; but they were unsuccessful in 
their attempts to trace the river to its origin, for its True Source remained 
still unknown. In 1832, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft explored Lake Itasca, 
which he regarded as the Head of the great stream. It had long been 
suspected, however, that the Mississippi had its Fountain-head higher up 
than Lake Itasca; and in July, 1881, an Expedition, led by Captain Will- 
ard Glazier, discovered a lake to the south of Itasca, nearly two miles in 
diameter and forty -five feet deep, falling into Itasca by a permanent 
stream. Lake Glazier is now generally recognized as the source of our 
great midland stream." 



Cleveland Leader. 

"Captain Glazier has added to his long and varied experiences the 
discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi. He found it in a hith- 
erto unrecognized lake to the south of Itasca. ... He started with his 
brother and one or two other white men, and having arrived at Leech 
Lake, obtained birch-bark canoes, and one or two Indians, and set out in 
search of the Source. Having reached Lake Itasca, the lake which has 



472 APPEN-DIX. 

heretofore been regarded as the Som*ce, he resolved upon a thorough 
exploration of the adjacent regions. The outlets of six small streams 
were found in Itasca. Trusting to an Indian guide, they entered the 
largest one, and followed it along some distance. After paddling for 
some time, another lake was found, and christened by the party ' Lake 
Glazier— the Source of the Father of Waters.' This lake is nearly two 
miles in diameter and forty -five feet deep. . . .'' 



Indianapolis Journal. 

" , . . In 1881, Captain Glazier, having doubts of the accuracy of 
previous explorations at the Headwaters of the Mississippi, set out to 
verify them, or to discover, himself, the True Som^ce of the Great 
River. This he did, after an interesting and remarkable overland 
journey through the wilds of Northern Minnesota. He discovered and 
demonstrated that the True Source of the Mississippi is not Lake Itasca, 
as had been long claimed, but a lake to the south of that and emptying 
into it, which he located, and it has since been named Lake Glazier in 
honor of the discoverer. . . ."'' 



National Eepublican, Washington, D. C. 

" . . . The birthplace of the Father of Waters is not Lake Itasca, 
as generally received, but Lake Glazier, in its vicinity, which, by a 
small stream, flows into Itasca. Lake Glazier, so named from its dis- 
coverer. Captain Willard Glazier, has three feeders, Eagle, Excelsior, 
and Deer creeks. This latest geographical claim is supported by ample 
testimony from highest and wide-spread authorities.'" 

Ohio State Journal. 
" It seems strange that for nearly fifty years, up to 1881, no new thing 
had been discovered concerning the great Mississippi, whose Source in 
the vast wilderness of the Northwest was supposed to be in Lake Itasca. 
In that year, however. Captain Willard Glazier, an adventurous spirit, 
determined to finally solve the mystery of the Source of the ' Father of 
Waters,' and also to navigate its entire length from Source to Sea. 
Accordingly, he traced with infinite hardship the narrowing stream 
above Itasca until its True Source was finally reached in what is now 
known as Lake Glazier."" 

Philadelphia Public Ledger. 

"By the discoveries of Captain Willard Glazier, made in 1881, Lake 
Itasca is dislodged from its former eminence as the Source of the Missis- 
sippi, the real Headwaters of that mighty stream being traced to Lake 
Glazier, a distance of 3,184 miles from the Gulf of Mexico." 



The Wheeling Intelligencer. 

" Until this journey was made, the Source of the Mississippi was 
universally placed in Lake Itasca, whereas Glazier and his party demon- 



APPEiq-Dix. 473 

Strated that a higher basin, now put down in all the new maps and geog- 
raphies as Lake Glazier, is really the Primary Reservoir of the 
Mississippi. It seems almost incredible, but is nevertheless true, that 
for over forty years previous to 1881, when Captain Glazier made his 
discovery, it was accepted as settled that Lake Itasca was the remotest 
body of water from the mouth of the Mississippi. The falsity of this 
theory, however, has been established, and an important discovery given 
to the geographical world. No discovery rivaling this in interest and 
importance has been made on the American continent for half a 
century."' 



Neiv York Christian Natiop. 

" Strange as it may seem, the True Source of the Mississippi was not 
known until 1881, but was erroneously supposed to take its rise in Lake 
Itasca, until that well-known traveler and popular writer, Captain 
Willard Glazier, took it into his head that the first end of the long river 
was not really known. And as Columbus resolved to discover a new 
world, so Captain Glazier determined to find the real Source of the 
Mississippi. He set forth in the month of May, 1881, from New York to 
the 'far West,' to put his long-cherished theory to the test, and with 
what result the world was made acquainted at the time by the public 
press. Many men have worked and schemed for years to gain fame, but 
Captain Glazier, in the heroic discharge of a self-imposed duty, in 117 
days made his name immortal." 

Ph iladelpliia Inquirer. 

"Several years ago Captain Glazier, while meditating upon the 
exploits of De Soto, Marquette, Father Hennepin, and La Salle, the heroic 
old explorers, who led the way to the Great River of North America, 
regretted that although its mouth was discovered by the Chevalier La 
Salle nearly two hundred j'ears ago, there was still much uncertainty 
as to its True Source. . . . The discovery and final location of the 
source of the Mississippi has now received general recognition in this 
country and Europe, and there certainly seems to be no doubt of the 
validity of Captain Glazier's claim. His account of the discovery is 
very entertaining reading." 



Burlington Hawkeye. 

"In the summer of 1881, Captain Willard Glazier, well known as a 
popular writer, made a remarkable canoe voyage from the Source of the 
Mississippi down its entire length to the Gulf of Mexico. Prior to start- 
ing on this unprecedented voyage, he organized and led an expedition to 
the Headwaters of the river in Northern Minnesota, with a view of set- 
ting at rest the vexed question as to the True Source of the mighty river. 
Captain Glazier and his party left Saint Paul, duly equipped with canoes 
and commissariat, July fourth, 1881, and arrived at Lake Itasca July 
twenty-first. Thence, by the aid of his Indian guides, he penetrated to 
another lake beyond Itasca, and connected therewith by a stx^eam which 
is a continuation of the Mississippi, and at that point is simply a narrow 



474 APPEKDIX. 

creek. The lake thus entered by Captain Glazier is the Trvie Source of 
the Father of Waters. Lake Glazier now appears on the maps as the 
source of the Great River.'' 



Camden Post. 

". . . Starting for the Headwaters of the Mississippi in July, 1881, 
Captain Glazier teUs us in the narrative of his journey that he learned 
that the dense forests which surround the Source of the Father of Waters 
were rarely penetrated by white men, or even by Indians except in the 
piu'suit of game in the winter. He also learned through his Indian guides 
and interpreter that the inhabitants of these primeval forests did not 
regard Itasca as the Source of May-see-see-bee, but that another lake, 
broad, deep, and beautiful, which lay above Itasca, and poured its clear 
waters into that lake, was the true head of the river. The Captain 
determined to thoroughly examine all this region, and to settle forever 
the question of the veritable Source of the Mississippi. In accordance 
with this design, he at length, after many difficulties, found himself on 
Schoolcraft Island in the center of Lake Itasca, and after a nighfs rest 
directed operations toward the lakes and streams of the surroimding 
country. He examined the shores of Itasca for tributary streams, find- 
ing but two of any importance. Of these, the largest came in at the 
extreme head of the lake, the mouth of which was filled with bulrushes. 
Taking two canoes, he and his party ascended this stream. Following 
the windings, and i^ushing through the obstructions, the canoes suddenly 
glided out upon the still surface of a comparatively large lake, clear as 
crystal, with pebbly bottom, and shores covered with a thick growth of 
pine. The greatest length of this lake is about two miles and its width 
a mile and a half. Captain Glazier, feeling thoroughly convinced that 
this fine body of water was the True Source of the Mississippi, proclaimed 
it as such, and his companions decided unanimously to name it Lake 
Glazier in honor of their leader. One of the party was an attache of the 
Saint Paul Pioneer Press, and this gentleman dispatched an account of 
the discovery to his paper. Since that period, the newly discovered 
Source has engaged the attention of the press throughout the countl*}', 
which, with one or two exceptions, has unqualifiedly accepted Captain 
Glazier's account, and given him the credit due; and the maps of 
Minnesota now show Lake Glazier instead of Lake Itasca as the 
Source of the Great River. . . ." 

Pittsburg Press. 

". . . The mystery which surrounded the regions of Lake Itasca, 
the accepted Source for nearly fifty years, and the paucity of informa- 
tion concerning the lake, were sufficient incentives to lead Captain Gla- 
zier, in 1881, to organize an Expedition to carry the exploration farther 
than had been done by any previous explorer. It resulted in a complete 
success, as he not only succeeded in reaching Lake Itasca, but, following 
the lead of an Indian guide, he made the discovery that there was still 
another lake above Itasca, and connected therewith by a permanently 
flowing stream — the Infant Mississippi. This lake was the real Source 



APPENDIX. 475 

of the river, and was named ' Glazier ' in honor of the man who had 
planned and led the expedition. It has been so placed on maps issued by- 
educational houses, not only in this country, but also in Canada and 
Europe. ..." 



New York Observer. 
". . . To Captain Glazier is undoubtedly due the honor of tracing 
the Father of Waters, the great American river, up to its True Source in 
the network of lakes that occupies the northern portion of the State of 
Minnesota, a task attended with more difficulties and embarrassments 
than it might appear to involve to the careless observer. . . ." 



Minneapolis Star News. 

". . . On the 22d day of July, 1881, the traveler and author, 
Captain Willard Glazier, discovered a silvery lake nestled among the 
pines of Northern Minnesota, and situate to the south of Itasca. He 
also discovered that a swift current flowed continuously from his new- 
found wonder to what was supposed to be the Source of the Father of 
Waters. Further investigation revealed the fact that the lake he had 
discovered was the True Source of the Mississippi. The lake is known 
to the Indians as Pokegama — 'the Place where the Waters Gather.' 

". . . Captain Glazier was induced to explore the Headwaters of 
the Mississippi by Indian tradition, which denied Schoolcraft's theory of 
Itasca. In the early part of Glazier's expedition he met Paul Beaulieu, 
the veteran interpreter at the Leech Lake Government Agency, who told 
him that Schoolcraft was in error. Fortified with this idea, he set out 
to discover the Tx'ue Source of the Father of Waters. ... To Cap- 
tain Glazier is due all the glory and honor of discovering to modern geog- 
raphers the True Head of our Great River." 



Philadelphia Times. 

" If one has labored under the impression that at this late date in our 
history every nook and corner of the United States has been discovered 
and mapped by enterprising explorers, it now seems conclusive that one 
has been mistaken. Captain Willard Glazier has discovered the True 
Source of the Mississippi, which is not, as we have been led to believe 
from our boyhood, in Lake Itasca, but in another lake to the south of it. 
Unlike Mr. Donnelly in his attempt to dethrone Shakespeare, he suc- 
ceeds in proving his theory to the satisfaction of the most competent 
judges, to wit, the geographers and educational publishers of the 
country. These accept the new Soui'ce by placing it on their maps and 
calling it after the discoverer, 'Lake Glazier.' . . ." 



Boston Beacon. 
"On July 2a, 1881, Captain Willard Glazier discovered what is now 
known to be the True Source of the Mississippi, in a lake beyond Itasca, 
about six miles in circumference, which, by the expedition accompany- 
ing him, was given his name, and so, after half a century, the origin of 
the Father of Waters is at length settled beyond a doubt. . . ."" 



476 APPENDIX. 

Portland Exiiress. 

". . . Captain Glazier and the members of his Expedition went 
in search of the True Source of the Mississippi. Tlie expedition exploded 
the long-held theory that Lake Itasca was the Source of the Father of 
Waters, and its True Som^ce was discovered and accurately located. As 
a result of the discoveries made by Captain Glazier, all the atlases, 
geographies, and encyclopaedias marked the change of the Mississippi's 
Source, and although the discoveries were not credited for a time, their 
accuracy has since been established with the above results. . . ." 



Troy Budget. 

". . . Probably nothing has done more to establish Captain Gla- 
zier's reputa.tion than his explorations at the Headwaters of the Missis- 
sippi. DifEerent travelers, of world-wide fame, had fixed upon different 
lakes as the Source of this 'Father of Waters,' and geographers and 
map makers had for years regarded the matter as settled, and recorded 
Lake Itasca, on the authority of Schoolcraft, as the sought-for Source. 
Led by the whisperings of Indian traditions, that told of other lakes, 
still farther on, Captain Glazier determined to test the accuracy of these 
shadowy reports. His persistence was amply rewarded. He has turned 
anew leaf in the geography of that region, which neither the jealousy 
of rival interests nor the torsion of adverse criticism has been able to 
turn backward. The water which he discovered, and which his com- 
panions very appropriately called Lake Glazier, has become historic. It 
has been adopted by the best geographers and by the best map makers 
as a final settlement of the question of the actual Source of the Missis- 
sippi Kiver. . . .■" 



The foregoing will probably be sufficient evidence to 
the reader that the "Voice of the Press" was distinctly 
heard in support of the discovery of 1881, and in justifi- 
cation of the man who possessed the moral . courage to 
question a popular, but groundless, theory, and the pluck 
to overthrow it, in the face of contumely, insult, and mean 
detraction of interested and prejudiced pseudo-scientists. 
Barely one-third of the press articles in my possession, all 
in support of the Glazier claim, are given, but quantum 
sufficit. 



E. 

CORRESPONDENCE RELATING TO SECOND EXPEDITION. 

The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the 
Mississippi was undertaken iu August and September, 1891, 
and some of the correspondence tliat preceded it is here given. 
The object of this second visit is plainly indicated in the 
following letter addressed by Captain Glazier to the Secretary 
of the AVisconsin Historical Society, Madison. Letters of 
similar tenor were also sent to several gentlemen, including 
scientists, secretaries of geographical societies, heads of col- 
leges, and others who, it was thought, from their position in 
the literary and scientific world, would naturally be interested 
in the solution of an important geogi'aphical question which 
had attracted so much attention. To all of these letters cour- 
teous responses were received, the result being that some 
accepted the invitation, while more were unable to spare the 
necessary time from their business and professional occupa- 
tions. All, however, wrote encouragingly, and expressed 
their approval of the proposed plan of another and final 
effort to establish the truth as to the real Source of the Great 
River. 

447 Jackson Street, 

Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 

June 24, 1891. 

The Secretary, State Historical Society, Madison, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: Having concluded to re-visit the Heafdwaters of the Mis- 
sissippi, accompanied by a few gentlemen interested in the topography 
of that region, I take the Hberty of informing you of my purpose. I 
may explain that my object in making this second journey is not to 
seek confirmation of my published statements on the subject of the True 
Source of our Great River, for upon this question I am so thoroughly 
satisfied of my correctness that no amount of cavil or opposition can 
affect my conclusions in the slightest degree— but, mainly, for the satis- 
faction of the gentlemen— geographers, scientists, editors, and others— 
who will join me as members of the expedition and see for themselves 
the beautiful lake above Itasca, which I claimed, after careful survey, to 
be the Source of the Mississippi; and which I assert, on the testimony of 

(477) 



478 APPENDIX. 

all American geographers, was never so considered ijrior to the visit of 
my exploring party of 1881, when its true relation to the river was 
revealed and established. These gentlemen will probably testify over 
their signatures as to the results of their investigations, the effect of 
which may possibly be, to remove the doubts of some who still affect to 
believe Lake Itasca to be the Source — an error which I have combatted 
for the last ten years. 

It has occurred to me, dear sir, that you ai'e presumably interested 
in the elucidation of an important geographical problem which has 
attracted so much of public attention, and may possibly like to become 
a member of ovu' party of investigators, and thus be enabled to form 
yoiu* own conclusions from observations made on the spot. Should you 
favor me by accepting my invitation, a cordial welcome will await you, 
and I shall do my best to make the journey as agreeable and pleasant as 
possible. Having already been over the ground, I shall have no difficulty 
in piloting my companions by the nearest and best route to our 
destination. 

I am at present organizing an expedition for the journey, and shall be 
very pleased to hear from you on the subject of my proposal. I am, 

Very respectfully, 

WiLLARD Glazier. 

Rev. John C. Crane had been for some years in doubt as 
to the real Source of the Mississippi, and expressed a strong 
desire to become a member of the Expedition. Mr. Crane is 
well known in the East as a magazine writer on historical 
questions. 

West Millbury, 

May 24, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

My Dear Sir: It has been my great desire for the past few years 
to visit the Headwaters of the Mississippi. Time after time I have taken 
up your maps and others bearing on the region, to see if I was right in 
my premises and conclusions. I have said to myself: Are you not 
prejudiced in the matter? Is not the source somewhere else? In vain! 
I could not convince myself that I am wTong in accepting your lake to 
the south of Itasca. By what process of reasoning men can come to 
any other conclusion, I can not understand. I appreciate your desire to 
know and publish the truth on this important geographical question, 
and will go with you if possible. Very truly yours, 

J. C. Crane. 

Rev. George A. Peltz, D. D., LL. D., pastor of the Temple 
Baptist Church, Philadelphia, believes Lake Glazier is the 
Source of the Mississippi, and regretted his inability to accom- 
pany the party. 



APPENDIX. 479 

The Temple, Broad and Berks Streets, 
Philadelphia, June 9, 1891. 
Dear Captain Glazier: Your kind letter of the 3d inst. was a 
surprise, and I thought I must say " yes," and journey with you through 
the Northern Wilderness. But I have been obliged to change my con- 
clusions as I have thought the matter over. I fear, as I grow older, I am 
getting too heavy for explorations, so I am sure I would not help your 
party much. I thank you for your remembrance of me, but must decline 
the honor, which I do with much regret. I wish you all success. May 
you silence your adversaries so effectually that they will never trouble 
you again. ^ Yours very sincerely, 

George A. Peltz. 

General Edward W. Wliitaker of Washington, D. C, late 
chief of staff to Generals Custer, Kilpatrick, and Sheridan, 
rei^retted his inability to accompany the Glazier party on 
account of official engagements. 

Washington, June 14, 1891. 
Captain W. Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

My Dear Captain: Your letter of June 11th at hand. Thanks for 
your invitation. I note the dates you mention for commencing your 
march north, and see clearly that my engagements for the reunion of 
1st Connecticut Cavalry and the G. A. R., at Detroit, will deprive me of 
the great pleasure of being with you and your company of "pioneers.'" 
I truly regret this, and trust you will be able to I'out the enemy without 
the aid of, Yours very sincerely, 

E. W. Whitaker. 

George Thompson, editor of the Saint Paul Dispatch, would 
have much liked to join the Glazier Expedition to the Head- 
waters, but was unable to absent himself on account of busi- 
ness pressure. 

Office of the Dispatch, 
Saint Paul, Minnesota, 

June 15, 1891. 
Captain W. Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: Your letter of Jime 10th I found on my desk on my return 
from a short vacation. The invitation to accompany you on your trip to 
the Headwaters, much as I should like to go for many reasons, I am very 
sorry to say I cannot accept, as my duties are so numerous that they 
will not permit of my absence for any length of time. With regard to a 
representative of the Dispatch going with the party, I hope to be able 
to send one . I understand that a delegation, appointed by the Governor 
to locate a pai-k near the Source of the river, will start shortly, and, on 
that account, as well as a strong desire to acquire a certain knowledge, 
I should like to accompany your party, or the other, or send a repre- 
sentative with both. Very truly yours, 

George Thompson. 



480 APPE'N'DIX. 

George F. Cram of Chicago, Book, Map, and Atlas 

Publisher, would have been pleased to see the Source of 

the Mississippi. 

415-417 Dearborn Street, 

Chicago, Illinois, 

Jime 22, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: I am pleased to acknowledge receipt of your favor of 
the 20th inst., and thank you for the invitation you extend to me. I 
do not know, at present, if it will be possible for nie to leave my business 
and be present with you on your trip, although I would exceedingly like 
to do so, both for the satisfaction of seeing the Source of the Mississippi, 
and also for the very pleasant summer outing which it will imdoubtedly 
be. . . . You have my best wishes. 

Yours very truly, 

George F. Cram. 



Hon. D. Sinclair, editor Winona Repuhlican, had business 
engagements which rendered it impossible to join the expe- 
dition. 

Republican Office, 

Winona, June 23, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

My Dear Sir: ... I have deferred answering your invitation, 
hoping that I might be able to so arrange my affairs as to accompany 
you on your expedition to the Source of the Mississippi. This, how- 
ever, I find it impossible to do, on account of business engagements out- 
side of my regxilar newspaper work. I regret this very much, as it 
would have afforded me the greatest pleasure; aU the more so, inas- 
much as I have strongly sympathized with your views in the gallant 
contest you have made with our Minnesota savants of the Historical 
Society. Thanking you very cordially for your invitation, I am. 

Very truly yours, 

D. Sinclair. 



Dr. A. Munsell, editor Dubuque Trade Journal, accepted 
the invitation to accompany Captain Glazier and his party. 

Trade Journal Office, 

Dubuque, June 29, 1891. 
Captain Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: I am pleased with the plan of your journey to the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi, and, in answer to yom' invitation, shall find 
pleasure in accompanying the expedition in August. I am already 
impressed with the idea, from all I have heard and read of your former 



appe;n"Dix. 481 

exi)edition, pro and con, that Itasca is not the Source, and shall be only 
too glad to look over the field myself, and form my conclusions from 
ocular evidence. I will be prepared to join you in a tramp through the 
wilderness whenever you are ready to start. I have, as you are aware, 
given considerable attention to the subject that interests you so much. 

Yom*s very truly, 

A. MUNSELL. 

W. H, Gamble, a prominent geographer of Philadelphia, 
while recognizing the importance of a second expedition, 
was unable to accept the invitatfon, for reasons which he 
assigns. 

618 Chestnut Street, 
Philadelphia, June 30, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsfn. 

... I appreciate your kindness in tendering me an invitation to 
visit with you the Headwaters of the Mississippi, but am afraid it will 
be impossible for me to accept, as I shall be at that time unusually deep 
in my United States geological work, our contract expiring this fall; but 
I assure you there is nothing would please me more than to make one 
of your interesting party of explorers. The knowledge gained by a 
tramp over the field would be of vast service to me, and I think to 
others, for my plan would be to follow up the drainage and locate its 
proper Reservoir, which, I have no doubt, from all I have learned, would 
be in the Glazier Lake, in accordance with the topography as I now 
understand it. I have just completed, for the Pennsylvania Railroad 
Company, a large drawing of the United States, representing their sys- 
tem and connecting lines. I have placed Lake Glazier as the Source of 
the Mississippi. This drawing will be circulated throughout Europe as 

well as America— North and South. 

W. H. Gamble. 

George H. Benedict of Chicago, Map and Wood Engraving, 
could not avail himself of the invitation. 

175-177 South Clark Street, 

Chicago, July 6, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: Your polite invitation to accompany your Expedition to 
the Source of the Mississippi is received, and I regret very much that it 
will be quite impossible for me to leave my business for the length Of 
time it would require to make the trip and investigation you contem- 
plate. With many thanks for your invitation, and wishing you success, 
I am, Yours truly, 

. George H. Benedict. 

Professor A. N. Husted of the Sate Normal College, 
Albany, New York, appreciated the invitation, but was unable 
to accept it, for domestic reasons. 
31 



482 APPENDIX. 

State Normal College, 
Albany, July 8, 1891. 
My Dear Captain Glazier: I greatly appreciate your invitation to 
make one of your party to proceed to the Source of the Mississippi. 
Under other circumstances I should be most happy to avail myself of it, 
but am compelled to decline on account of the severe illness of Mrs. 
Husted, which has detained us here since our " Commencement.'" I am, 
however, very sensible of your courtesy in thinking of me as a possible 
addition to your corps of explorers. Believe me that to see the Source 
of the great Mississippi, and enjoy the society of your select party, for a 
time, would be a very great pleasure to me. Wishing you a successful 
trip and more well-earned honors, I remain. 

Sincerely yours, 

A. N. Husted. 



H. H. Rassweiler, Geographer, Chicago, would have 
been very glad to form one of the party, but business engage- 
ments precluded his doing so. 

515 Wabash Avenue, 

Chicago, July 9, 1891. 
Captain Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: Your favor of the 4th inst. is received, and I thank you 
for your invitation to accompany you on your contemplated trip to the 
Headwaters of the Great River. Nothing that I can think of in the line 
of recreation, adventure, and interesting research would give me more 
pleasure than just such a trip as you propose undertaking. But I regret 
to say that I can not go. Business appointments already made forbid 
me the pleasure. Thanking you again for your very kind invitation, I 
am, Very truly yours, 

H. H. Rassweiler. 



Charles H. Ames of the firm of D. C. Heath & Co., Edu- 
cational Publishers, Boston, Massachusetts, said he cquld 
not think of a vacation for some months to come, as it was 
the busiest season of the year in the educational publishing 
business. 

Boston, July 13, 1891. 
Captain W. Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: Your attractive invitation to join an exploring party at 
the Headwaters of the Mississippi in August is received. Nothing would 
please me more, and especially to make the journey in company with 
such gentlemen as I am sure you will bring together on the occasion. 
An acceptance of your invitation is, however, for me, utterly out of the 
question. It is the busiest season of the year in educational publishing, 
and I can not think of a vacation for some months to come. 



APPENDIX. 483 

Please accept my thanks and best wishes for the fullest success of 
your expedition, and believe me, Very truly yours, * 

Charles H. Ames. 

Charles Lubrecht, New York, Map and Chart Manufacturer, 

was unable to leave his business, but sent good wishes, and 

believed the Second Expedition would result in establishing 

Captain Glazier's claim. 

195 Pearl Street, 
New York, July 13, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

Dear Sir: I thank you for your invitation to accompany your party, 
and assure you nothing would afford me more pleasure than roughing 
it with you for such an object. But my business will not permit my 
absence for so long a time as you state. I can only send you my best 
wishes, and feel convinced that this Second Expedition to the Source of 
the Father of Waters will fully and forever estabhsh in all doubting 
minds— if there are any left — your rightful claim as its discoverer. I am, 

Very truly yours, 

Charles Lubrecht. 

Dr. Charles E. Harrison, Davenport, Iowa, Secretary and 
ex-President Academy of Natural Sciences, accepted invita- 
tion to accompany the Expedition. 

Davenport, July 15, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

My Dear Sir: Your letter is at hand. I thank you for your invita- 
tion to a member of our Academy to join your Expedition to the Itascan 
Basin, and will endeavor to find one, who would not only be acceptable 
as our representative, but would do honor to you and your party. 
Unfortunately, most of our members are men of business and pressed 
for time, but I hope to be able to find some one who will avail himself 
of your invitation. I have spoken to Professor Barriss on the subject, 
but fear it will be impossible for him to go, as he is getting well along in 
years and his feeble health would not permit him to undergo the 
necessary fatigue. Our President— Mr. Thompson— Professor Barriss, 
and other officers and members, unite in urging me to represent them, 
but I hesitate to do so from the fact that I make no claims as a scientist, 
only a lover of nature and nature's works. Have devoted some atten- 
tion to archaeology, having done considerable investigation of the mounds 
in this vicinity. I have served the Academy for many years in all the 
official capacities. May I ask the length of time to be occupied by the 
trip? lam, Very truly yours, 

Charles E. Harrison. 

NOTE. — In a subsequent letter, I)r. Harrison concluded to 
accept the invitation to represent the Academy, and accompanied 
the Glazier party , leaving Minneapolis August seventeenth. 



484 A.PPEKDIX. 

D. S. Knowlton, editor Boston Times, accepted invitation 

to join tlie investigating party. 

The Times Office, 
Boston, Massachusetts, 
July 20, 1891. 
Dear Captain Glazier: Your favor of June 26th was duly received, 
and after giving the matter full consideration, I accept yom- invitation 
to join you on a tour of obsei'vation at the Headwaters of the Mississippi. 
I will arrange the vacations of those in the office and adjust my own 
affairs so as to allow of my absence for a month or so. I very much 
wish to make one of the party, and things point that way now. Should 
there be any change in the date of departure from Minneapolis, will 
you kindly advise me? You can readily appreciate that I am ordinarily 
pretty busy, and have many interests which it is difficult to neglect, or 
be away from for a month. But I am counting most earnestly upon 
being one of your party, and thank you for the invitation. We New 
Englanders want to know all about the "Great Northwest,'' and espe- 
ciaJiy the exact location of the mighty Mississippi's cradle. 

Very truly yours, 

D. S. Knowlton. 

James O. Griffin, Registrar Cornell University, in the 
absence of President Adams in Europe, endeavored to comply 

with Captain Glazier's request. 

Office Registrar 
Cornell University, Ithaca, 
July 24, 1891. 
Captain Willard Glazier, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 

My Dear Sir: In reply to your letter of invitation addressed to 
President Adams, I beg to say that he is now absent in Eiu-ope, and will 
not return until September; but I will place your letter in the hands of 
Professor H. S. Wilhams, of the department of Geology and Paleontology, 
and request him to recommend to you, if possible, a gentleman to 
represent us in your party. I am, 

Very truly yours, 

James O. Griffin. 

Professor H. D. Densmore, Beloit College, had arranged to 
join the Glazier Expedition, but found at the last moment that 
he could not absent himself from the College at the time 
appointed for the departure from Minneapolis, and recom- 
mended a substitute. 

Beloit College, 
August 11, 1891. 
Captain Glazier, Minneapolis, Minnesota. 

My Dear Sir: I find, at the last moment, that I can not accompany 
you. Your trip would take me into the beginning of my term work, 



APPENDIX. 485 

which it does not seem advisable for me to encroach upon. I am very 
sorry indeed not to form one of your party. I can do no better than 
commend to you as a substitute Mr. Albert Whitney, son of Professor 
H. M. Whitney. He is a graduate, and a genius in woodcraft. You would 
find him a valuable acquisition as an explorer. 
Again expressing my regrets, I am, 

Very sincerely yours, 

H. D. Densmore. 

The replies to letters of invitation could be largely multi- 
plied, but the few I liave inserted above will suffice to show 
the spirit in which the invitation was received, and the inter- 
est manifested in the proposed Expedition. 



F. 

AFTER THE RETURI^. 

Having presented to the reader a few of the letters received 
by Captain Glazier before the departure of the Expedition on 
its errand of investigation, it will possibly be deemed pertinent 
to the purpose of this Appendix to submit others written by 
various members of the party after their return. These show 
the very decided opinions formed on the subject that engrossed 
attention at the Headwaters — the exact location of the Source 
of the Mississippi. They will further expose the mendacity 
of certain parties who maliciously invented and attempted to 
spread the falsehood that the investigating party were " divided 
in their conclusions as to the True Source of the River." 

The New York Herald printed the following communica- 
tion from D. S. Knowlton, editor of the Boston Times: 

Wadena, Minnesota, 
September 4, 1891. 
To the Editor of the New York Herald: 

On Saturday morning, August 22d, the Glazier Expedition left Park 
Rapids, Hubbard County, Minnesota, by wagon train, to visit the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi River. Their object was to carefully investi- 
gate the streams and lakes tributary to Lake Itasca, take measurements 
and photographs, and report to the public impartially upon the facts as 
found. The value to the world of these investigations lies in the fact 
that there is, particularly in Saint Paul, some controversy as to what 
should be considered the Ultimate Source of the Father of Waters. 

In 1832, Schoolcraft located Itasca as this Source. In 1881, Captain 
Willard Glazier, the author and traveler, claimed to have discovered, and 
to have been the first to annoimce, the true relation of the Mississippi to 
the lake south of the southwest arm of Lake Itasca. As it was a lake of 
large dimensions, he proclaimed it the True Source. 

It was quite generally considered to be so for a number of years. 
Then a controversy arose, and lately the Minnesota Historical Society, 
who denominate the Glazier Lake as Elk Lake — the early name of Itasca 
—have explored another stream entering Itasca a little farther to the 
west, called Nicollet Creek, and have located the Source of the Great 
River up that valley. 

The members of this Second Expedition were: Captain Willard 

(486) 



APPE>TDIX. 487 

Glazier of Albany, New York; Pearce Giles of Camden, New Jersey; 
John C. Crane of Worcester, Massachusetts, historian, author, and 
genealogist; Charles E. Harrison of Davenport, Iowa, who has held 
nearly all of the executive offices of the Davenport Academy of Sciences; 
A. Munsell of Dubuque, Iowa, editor and publisher of the Dubuque 
Trade Journal, and well known in the business circles of that city ; F. J. 
Trost of Van Loo & Trost, the Toledo photographers, who took many 
photographs of the lakes' tributaries and surrounding hills; W. S. Shure 
of York, Pennsylvania, artist; D. S. Knowlton, editor of the Boston 
Times; Albert W. Whitney of Beloit College, Beloit, Wisconsin, botan- 
ist to the expedition ; E. M. Horton, surveyor and civil engineer; Oliver 
S. Keay of Park Rapids, assistant surveyor and guide, and Louis Dele- 
zene of Park Rapids, cook. We were also accompanied a part of the 
time by Hon. C. D. Cutting and Frank Cutting of Howard County, 
Iowa; and A. R. Cobb, postmaster at Park Rapids, and editor of the 
Hubbard County Enterprise. 

Miss Alice Glazier, Captain Glazier's daughter, was the only lady to 
accompany the expedition. She has decided ability as a water-colorist 
and sketcher. 

Saturday evening overtook us twenty-two miles from Park Rapids. 
Schoolcraft Island, in Lake Itasca, was reached by nightfall the next 
day. 

Early Monday morning, August 24th, we paddled down the southwest 
arm of Itasca, and pitched a permanent camp on a ridge, some thirty 
feet high, overlooking and separating Lake Itasca on the north and the 
Glazier lake on the south. The latter is a beautiful body of water, at 
least 255 acres in area. It flows into Itasca by a stream 1,100 feet in 
length, which has been named the Infant Mississippi. 

The feeders of Lake Glazier are as follows: Skirting the lake along 
its eastern shore, one hears, fifty feet away, the water pouring in a cas- 
cade from an iron spring, some fifty feet from the edge of the lake, 
and at least fifteen feet above it. Next comes Deer Creek, which is 
6,864 feet long; Horton Creek is 1,188 feet long, flowing from a lake 396 
feet wide; Excelsior Creek is 8,778 feet in length, its source being two 
and two-third miles from Itasca. Eagle Creek is 4,356 feet long, and 
flows from Lake Alice, a picturesque sheet of water nine and a half 
acres in extent. 

These tributaries enter the lake in natural bays, which are separated 
from each other by wooded ridges jutting into the lake. 

It having been claimed by some that the Mississippi has its Source up 
Nicollet Creek to the west, the party made an equally careful investiga- 
tion of the running water tributary at that point. Nicollet Creek was 
chained from its mouth through Nicollet's First Lake— not over three 
acres in extent— and Nicollet's Second Lake— not over twelve acres in 
extent— to its starting-point, above the second lake. The most remote 
running water issues from a series of springs 7,307 feet from Itasca, a 
little over one and two-fifths miles. These springs are at the foot of a 
high ridge or divide, which was examined carefully. I can not see how 
they can be considered otherwise than the source of the creek. No con- 



488 APPENDIX. 

necting running water was found flowing from Nicollet's Third Lake 
over the divide or from the region beyond. 

By comparing the figures given, it is seen that the distance of the 
most remote running water from Itasca flowing through Glazier Lake — 
the source of Excelsior Creek— is 6,799 feet more than the most remote 
running water entering Itasca through the Nicollet Creek — an excess of 
nearly one mile and a third in favor of the Glazier Basin. . . . 

Our long tramps being practically completed early Saturday after- 
noon, August 29th, the entire company crossed the Glazier lake in 
canoes to the highest promontory on its southern shore. Captain Gla- 
zier there delivered quite an address beneath the same trees under which 
he halted in 1881. He said that he then became satisfied that this beautiful 
lake was the Ti'ue Source of the Mississippi, for the reason that it is 
above and beyond Itasca; that it flows into that lake through a perennial 
stream, and that it has five permanent feeders leading to the swamps 
and sand hills from one and a half to two and a half miles southward. 

Camp was broken Monday, August 31st, and we arrived at Park Rap- 
ids Tuesday evening. The membei's of the party drew up and signed 
a statement covering their observations, without Captain Glazier's 
knowledge. I will give 'the concluding paragraph: 

"Investigation and observation lead us to the conclusion that the 
basin drained by the feeders to Lake Glazier, and emptying into Lake 
Itasca at the southeast corner of its southwest arm, is considerably 
larger than that drained by the stream emptying into the south side of 
the southwest arm— Nicollet Creek; and that running water can be 
traced at a much greater distance from the outlet of Glazier Lake into 
Lake Itasca than from the other outlet referred to." 

D. S. Knowlton. 

Letter to the Minneapolis Tribune from Albert W. Whit- 
ney, botanist to the expedition: 

Park Rapids, Minnesota, 
September 3, 1891. 

The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the Mississippi 
returned to this place last evening. . . . The party left Minneapolis 
on Monday, August seventeenth. Most of the week following was spent 
on the route, in the cities of Saint Cloud, Brainerd, Wadena, and Park 
Rapids, and in getting ready to start into the woods. At Brainerd the 
party received a pleasant call from Miss Lotta Grandelmeyer, a great- 
granddaughter of William Morrison, who was the first white man to see 
Lake Itasca. At Park Rapids the party was increased by the addition to 
its ranks of Hon. C. D. Cutting and son, of Iowa; H. R. Cobb, postmaster 
and editor of the Hubbard County Enterprise; E. M. Horton, civil engi- 
neer and surveyor; O. S. Keay, assistant surveyor and guide, and Louis 
Delezene, cook. 

Saturday morning the journey from Park Rapids was begun, and the 
heavy-laden wagons rolled over the prairie for a f .w miles and then 
plunged northward into the somber forest. The road is about as bad as 



APPEN"DIX. 489 

could well be imagined ; up and down the steep inclines of the Kettle 
Moraine, and over great glacial bowlders, to say nothing of washouts 
and stumps and mud-holes. Lake Itasca was reached on the second 
day, and as the sun threw his setting rays across its sedgy waters, 
tents were pitched on the island where fifty-nine years ago Schoolcraft 
landed, and which now bears his name. Lake Itasca is a body of water 
consisting of the anomaly of three arms without a body, radiating from 
a point which almost coincides with Schoolcraft Island. The water is 
not very clear, but quite deep. The shores are fringed with a few rods 
of sedges and wild rice, wliere one may occasionally catch sight of a 
deer ready to dart back into the forest which encircles the lake; now the 
banks are steep aud covered with birch and poplar, and occasional 
piecesof fine pine; now they are low and thickly grown with tamarack. 

Monday was sioent in moving camp to the ridge of high land sepai-at- 
ing Lakes Itasca and Glazier. There lay spread out before our gaze the 
two lakes; elsewhere a limitless expanse of pine and birch, save in the 
opening about us, where grew in gay profusion quantities of golden-rod, 
asters, and painted-cup, while off toward the water was revealed the 
beautiful face of the fringed gentian. By the way, I never saw this 
flower in such wonderful beauty and quantity as along the road on the 
way back; it was a glorious vision of blue. 

I think every member of the party, without exception, was surprised 
at the extent and beauty of the Glazier lake as it first dawned upon our 
view. In size and character, I should say, it veiy much resembles Lake 
Harriet, near Minneapolis. Its shape is roughly oval. Its greatest 
length is about one and one-fourth miles; its width, from one-half to 
three-fourths of a mile. Its area is 255 acres; its depth, about 45 feet. 
Many of its characteristics are those of Itasca; the difference between 
them lies in the greater height of the hills which surround the Glazier 
lake and in its much clearer and purer waters. 

Lake Glazier is connected with Itasca by a creek. This creek has a 
brisk current, and we found carried enough water to afford to our large 
boats passage between the lakes. Lake Glazier is fed by at least four 
tributaries; they all flow northward. The largest is Excelsior Creek. 
This originates in seepage springs in a tamarack swamp; these springs 
were found by measurement to be 8,778 feet from the Glazier lake. 

Eagle Creek rises likewise in a tamarack swamp 6,798 feet fi'om 
Lake Glazier; 1,518 feet from its source it passes through Lake Alice, a 
beautiful little sheet of water, 024 feet in length, and of an area of 
about 0)4 acres. Deer Creek from its source to Lake Glazier is 6,864 feet. 
Horton Creeii is a small stream 1,188 feet in length. It has its source 
in a lily pond of about 2^2 acres. Besides these streams there are on 
the east shore of the lake several iron springs, one of which pours its 
waters in a cascade down the face of fifty feet of a hill. 

Lake Glazier is just as worthy of the name of lake as is Itasca, and in 
interesting features and picturesqueness far surpasses it Its waters 
are full of fish. Casual trolling between the long tramps and exploring 
campaigns wliich formed the daily programme always resulted iu the 
capture of plenty of pickerel, pike, rock-bass, and croppies. One moi'n- 



490 APPEN"DIX. 

ing, besides numerous smallei' fry, two fish were cauglit wtiicli together 
weighed twenty-five pounds. Ducks are not very numerous, but of 
course the season is yet rather early. While speaking of game, let me 
not forget to chronicle our two bear adventures. Mr. Bear in both cases 
was wise enough to appear before our "amateur'' hunters, and both 
were reheved, I venture to say, with mere salutes. 

The only other important feeder of Lake Itasca is Nicollet Creek, 
which enters Itasca about a quarter of a mile west of the outlet of the 
creek from Lake Glazier. This was carefully explored and measured 
from mouth to som'ce. It drains a tamarack swamp and has several 
small feeders. Its total length is 7,307 feet. Near its head it passes 
through two small bodies of water, which have been called "Nicollet's 
First and Second Lakes." The former of these, and nearest to Itasca, 
is a lily pond of about thi'ee acres. The second is a small lake of about 
twelve acres in extent, but of no especial beauty or interest. A few feet 
beyond this, and one is confronted by a high ridge of land. While gazing 
up at the splendid pines which crown its summit, one of our party dis- 
covered the source of Nicollet Creek by stepping in, up to the knees, in a 
spring which bubbles up at its base. Whatever importance Nicollet 
Creek may have as a feeder of Lake Itasca, it is certain that this must 
accrue to it in virtue of its career below the ridge and this spring. 

Itasca is supphed by two principal sources. One of these drains a 
tamarack swamp, has nothing worthy to be called a lake iu its course, 
and has a source 7,307 feet from Itasca. The other is a narrower stream, 
but flows from a fine lake, the source of whose principal feeder is 14,106 
feet from Itasca. 

These are the facts in regard to Lakes Itasca and Glazier, and 
their feeders, which our party have to present. Our time has been 
principally spent in their careful acquisition, and it was no easy matter, 
in this country of tamarack swamps, floating bogs, underbrush, and 
mosquitos, to obtain them. 

As to pronouncing judgment in the matter of the Source of the 
Mississippi, I, at least, and I think I may safely say each member of the 
party, feels that it is not his province. We hope that we have more or 
less perfectly presented the facts in regard to the question. Let the 
people, by the help of able geographers, use these facts in coming to a 
conclusion as to the True Source of the Great River. 

Albert W. Whitney. 

Dr. A. Munsell gives his account of the investigations at 

the Headwaters of the Mississippi, in which he participated 

as a member of the Second Glazier Expedition; 

Everybody knows that in 1832 Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, a distin- 
guished American explorer and ethnologist, sought the Source of the 
Mississippi River. He reached a lake having three sprawling arms and 
a central island. From this lake, at the extremity of its northern arm, 
through an outlet thirty feet wide, the water found an outward flow. 
A.fter camping a few hoiu"s on the island, he concluded that here was the 
Ultimate Source and Primal Reservoir of the Great River. He inquired of 



APPEN^DIX. 491 

his Indian guide the name of the lake, and was told Chnushkos — a word 
that means "Elk." He then departed, and for fifty years this body of 
water, which here-named "Itasca," continued the accepted Source of 
the river, the island, meanwhile, being honored with his name. 

In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier of Albany, New York, soldier, trav- 
eler, and author, by reason of information derived from Indians, 
became impressed with the conviction that uncertainty yet rested on the 
origin of the river, and that its True Source was probably beyond Itasca. 
Entertaining this view, he organized a party and proceeded to a further 
exploration of the Headwater region. Reaching Itasca on the twenty- 
first of July, 1881, he entered the lake and paddled for Schoolcraft Island, 
where tents were pitched that night. Meanwhile, Chenowagesic, his 
chief guide, had informed the Captain that some years previously he had 
lived in that region, making it his hunting-ground within the distance of 
one hundred miles. He also declared that the beginning of the river 
was beyond Lake Itasca. On the morning of the twenty-second of July 
the search was vigorously commenced. In coasting the lake, two streams 
were found having distinct inlets, and four that indistinctly percolated 
through bogs. Chenowagesic insisted that one of the two streams near 
the extremity of the southwestern arm led to a lake beyond Itasca. 
The right stream was at length discovered, and the canoes pushed 
through. A lively flow of water soon revealed itself, and, with enthusi- 
asm, a difficult passage through it was made, when suddenly a most 
beautiful lake appeared. This body of water was immediately pad- 
dled across to a promontory on its southern shore, which, projecting 
into the lake, considerably indents its marginal outline. The gen- 
eral shape was deemed to be oval, and its greatest diameter nearly 
two miles. On coasting the lake, three tributary streams were found 
and traced to their origins, two of them to springs issuing from sand 
hills and one proceeding from a small lake. The streams were at once 
named by the Captain, Eagle, Excelsior, and Deer creeks, and the lake- 
let at the head of Eagle Creek was called Lake Alice. As nothing but 
mere feeders flowed into the newly discovered body of water. Captain 
Glazier deemed it to be the Ultimate Source of the Mississippi; that 
Itasca received its waters, and, as an expansion of the river only, sent 
them onward in their course toward the sea. A few remarks from the 
Captain reminded them of the importance of their work, and the effect 
it would have in making a new revelation concerning the real Source of 
America's greatest river. At the instance of Mr. Paine, a member of the 
expedition, and by a unanimous vote, with the exception of the Cap- 
tain's, the body of water was formally named Lake Glazier. Six volleys 
were fired over the water— a volley for each member of the party. . . . 

The announcement of the new Source was soon made known to the 
world, and Captain Glazier, already noted as an author and traveler, 
became still more so by the publication of another book, entitled 
"Down the Great River." Geographers, scientists, and map publishers, 
as well as the settlers of Northern Minnesota, immediately accepted the 
truth of a new Source to the Mississippi. 

But the Minnesota Historical Society, which vaunts itself as "a 



492 APPENDIX. 

co-ordinate branch of the State Government,''' several years after the 
announcement of the location of the True Source of the river, bestirr<^d 
itself to controvert and deny the genuineness of the discovery, and 
denounced the discoverer as an "adventurer''' and a false guide. By 
lobbying the Legislature, the Society procured the passage of a law pro- 
hibiting the use in the public schools of the State of any map or geogra- 
phy showing Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi. Captain 
Glazier, however, stoutly adliered to his position, would retract nothing 
from his published statements, and the controversy waxed warm. An 
agent of the Society was dispatched to the Headwaters, with instruc- 
tions to report on the real Source of the river, and disprove the Glazier 
theory. This agent complicated matters on his return by reporting four 
new sources to the river. One of these was ascertained by hypothet- 
ically tunneling a ridge, following ooze through a bog, and ultimately 
draining from a distant lake by tapping its bottom. Another, in very 
despair, gave the source a heavenly origin, the agent reporting that 
" All our rivers have their sources in the clouds,'" a truism scarcely com- 
ing within the definition of " physical geography." The map publishers 
intensified the controversy, it is conjectured, with a view of delaying 
any necessary changes in their maps. They also arranged to have the 
recent International Congress at Berne, Switzerland, conservatively pass 
on the Source question of the Mississippi, and name Itasca as still the 
origin of the river. All this, and other reasons, gave rise to the 

SECOND GLAZIER EXPEDITION. 

For the purpose of ascertaining accurately the actual Source of the 
Mississippi, several geographers, scientists, editors, and others, volun- 
teered to accompany Captain Glazier, in August, 1891, to the Headwaters 
of the river. All preparations being completed, the party left Pai'k 
Rapids, a frontier town nearest to the Headwaters, on the morning of 
the 22d in three wagons. The way was rough and through a wilderness. 
Twenty miles out, we camped for the night. Next day, the 23d, reached 
Lake Itasca in the afternoon, and camped for the night. A permanent 
camp was established the 24th on the high ridge separating Lake Glazier 
from Lake Itasca. Camp Trost, on Lake Glazier, was named in honor of 
Fred J. Trost of Toledo, Ohio, a skilled photographer and experienced 
sportsman. He has taken one hundred views in the headwaters region of 
scenes in camp and woods, and places of prominence and interest. The 
tents on Camp Trost were occupied seven days, or rather nights, for 
during the day all hands were constantly out and hard at work in their 
respective spheres. Exploring squads went in every direction, all over 
the so-called Itasca Basin, and noted every rivulet, spring, bog, pond, 
and lake. The two surveyors chained the length of all the streams and 
triangulated for distances across water. Whitney, the botanist, indus- 
triously inquired into the flora, not neglecting the fauna, of the region, 
and also determined the flowing volume of water at important points 
connected with the inlets of feeders to Lakes Itasca and Glazier, and 
the inlets and outlets of the main Mississippi stream in this, the 
locality of its infancy. Dr. Harrison gathered mineralogical and 



APPENDIX. 493 

small zoological specimens while aiding in the common work of 
exploration. The journalists observed, took notes, and were more or 
less active, in company with the surveyors, in taking measurements of 
affluents and locating springs. Briefly, and by way of summary, the 
work done by this Expedition may be given : First, Pine Creek, named 
by Captain Glazier in 1881, and since variously called " Nicollet River " 
and by other names, was thoroughly investigated. Its upward trace 
commences at the extreme end of the southwestern arm of Itasca. The 
trace was followed into, and out of, a lily-covered pond of about three 
acres; thence into, and out of, a larger, or twelve-acre collection of 
water, from which it proceeds to its origin in a boggy spring at the base 
of a high ridge that divides the valley of this ci'eek from the basiu of 
Lake Glazier and its numerous feeders. The entire length of the creek 
was chairied and found to be 7,307 feet, or about a mile and two-fifths. 
Over the ridge and beyond, in the general depression on the hither side 
of the Hauteurs de Terre, or heights of land, that divides the Mississippi 
water-shed from that of the Red River of the North, numerous isolated 
bogs, ponds, lakelets, and lakes were seen and noted. 

Examination next began at the mouth of the Infant Mississippi— a 
perennial stream that unites Lakes Glazier and Itasca. Upward, its 
course begins near the end of the southwestern arm of Itasca, on the 
east side, and leads into Lake Glazier. Lake Glazier is a beautiful body 
of water, having a surface of 255 acres and a depth of 45 feet. Next 
to Itasca it is the largest single collection of water in the headwaters 
region. In general shape it is oval, with longer and shorter diameters 
of nearly two miles and one mile. Its waters are deeper than those of 
Itasca, purer, and more abound with fish. The growth of vegetation 
and forest about it is of the same general character as that which bordei's 
Itasca, but is more dense and green. The outline is gently irregular and 
pleasingly sinuous. A bold rocky promontory, fifty feet high, rises from 
the lake on the south side, while a high ridge elevates the bank on the 
east. Though perhaps a hundi'ed pure springs pour through their 
rivulets into Lake Glazier, its main feeders are: 

Eagle Creek, leading out at the northwest, proceeding directly west, 
and then south to its origin in Lake Alice; which, further, has a rill 
feeder 1 518 feet long. The entire distance of the commencement of the 
muior feeder to Lake Alice, from the mouth of the Infant Mississippi in 
Lake Itasca, is 9,878 feet. 

Excelsior Creek, directly south, has a length of 8,788 feet, and its 
origin, a spring, is 14,106 feet distant from the mouth of the Infant 
Mississippi. 

Deer Creek and Horton Creek are both on the south, the former 
rising in a spring and the latter in Whitney Pond. Deer Creek is 6,864 
feet long, and its source is 13,904 feet from Itasca. Horton Creek is 
1,188 feet long, and its source, Whitney Pond, 396 feet. The area of 
Whitney Pond is two acres, and the distance to its extreme southern end 
from Itasca is 8,492 feet. 

Shure Spring is situated on the hillside of the east bank of Lake 
Glazier, at a horizontal distance of probably 80 feet, and vertical eleva- 



494 APPENDIX. 

tion of 40 feet above the lake level. Its stream would fill a three-inch 
pipe, and leaps in a lively rush down the hill. It has been named after 
Mr. Shure's wife, Florence Cascade. The spring and cascade are objects 
of pleasing interest, and the water strongly chalybeate. 

Other features of Lake Glazier may be alluded to. The promontory 
causes a pronounced bay on each side of it. The beach on the south- 
eastern side is composed of fine white sand, which reminds one of the 
seaside. Near the southwestern shore is an eagle's nest in the top of a 
Norway pine. It appears to be about five or six feet in outside circum- 
ference. Captain Glazier saw it there in 1881, and Chenowagesic told 
him it had been there for forty years previously. How many eaglets 
have been, and will be, nurtured in that maternal home may be left for 
the imagination to conjecture. 

A most pleasing effect is experienced by the beholder on seeing this 
lake the first time, and particularly from any of the high lands sur- 
rounding it. He is surprised at viewing so large a sheet of water, and 
his attention is riveted many moments on its unusual beauty. 

On August twenty-ninth, the investigating labors of the Expedition 
closed, and in the afternoon the party assembled on the promontory. 
There Captain Glazier addressed us. He reviewed the history of the 
Mississippi's Source, and compUmented his hearers on the care taken 
and the diUgence shown in the examination of the region. He said 
their work was important, and would be regarded with interest by every 
inhabitant of Minnesota, the Mississippi Valley, this country, and the 
geographical world generally. In the final decision of what is the True 
Source, geographers would value and consider the work we had done. 
Mr. Crane, on behalf of his companions, responded briefly and appro- 
priately. 

The Flag which had floated over every camp, and liad accompanied 
Captain Glazier to the same region in 1881, was hoisted to a tree-top to 
remain as a memento of the Second Glazier Expedition. Twenty -five 
volleys were fired as a salute — six for the party of 1881 and nineteen for 
the party of 1891. All then entered the canoes and enjoyed a leisurely 
stroll of observation at an hour when the air was balmy, the breeze 
gentle, and the declining sun cast a glow of cheerful light over beauti- 
ful Lake Glazier. 

Sunday, August 30th, was spent quietly in camp, writing up journals 
and prepariag for the morrow's i-etreat toward civihzation. Mr. Crane 
closed the day with divine service in front of the camp. In an admira- 
ble discourse he proclaimed the gospel call to his hearers. When the 
sermon and prayer ceased, a spontaneous choir sang " Nearer My God to 
Thee," followed by the doxology and benediction. Thus closed om- 
Sabbath day. 

The entire region had been traversed, and every rill, rivulet, stream, 
bog, and collection of water carefully examined. In addition to the top- 
ographic and hydrographic facts mentioned in this letter, the following 
general statements may be made : 

Itasca is simply not the Source of the Mississippi; a perennial stream 
connects it with another lake nearly as large, and above and beyond it. 



APPENDIX. 495 

The largest feeder to Lake Itasca is 7,307 feet long from mouth to 
source, while the largest feeder to Lake Glazier is 8,778 feet from mouth 
to source, and at the same time its mouth is 8.907 feet from Itasca, 
making its total length of water surface connection with Itasca 16,214 
feet. In view of all these facts, it is evident that Lake Glazier, a body 
255 acres in surface, draining the basin in which it lies, and being the 
most remote Eesei-voir receiving and supplying water to the great 
stream, should be held to be the True Source of the Mississippi River. 

A. MUNSELL. 

From Winfield Scott Shure, correspondent of the Age, 

York, Pennsylvania : 

Lake Glazier, Minnesota, 

August 31, 1891. 

Editor the Age: This morning found myself and tent-mate up 
before the day, coasting Lake Itasca in search of water-fowl. We 
returned before breakfast with a goodly number, but before doing so 
paddled our canoe down the Mississippi a few rods from the point where 
Dhe river leaves Itasca, and after viewing the winding infant stream, and 
vainly wishing we could paddle on and on until we reached the Gulf of 
Mexico, retraced our course. 

As the dawn grew into early day, and the sun rose in all his splen- 
dor, a gentle breeze came from the south and fanned the mirror-like 
surface of the lake into ripples, and ere long the white-caps ran high. 
We therefore deemed it unadvisable to go forward with our freight, or 
those of our party least fitted for battling with a storm ; but our leader, 
who desired to again gaze on the beautiful lake to the south of Itasca, 
called for two volunteers to man a boat and take him and his daughter 
and the guide across the lake. Mr. Trost and I responded, and after 
coasting it for more than an hour, paddled into the mouth of the Infant 
Mississippi— the stream flowing from Lake Glazier into Lake Itasca. 
Following the stream until we encountered a fallen tree across it, we 
were compelled to disembark. 

In our haste to see the Real Soiu'ce of the Father of Waters, we 
hastened to a point from which the guide told us the lake could be seen. 
Mounting the crest of the ridge, I took a sweeping glance at the lake 
before us, then turned mj' attention to ovu' leader and his daughter. 
Picture in your mind Captain Glazier's delight as he realized that he 
had again, after ten years, reached this spot, and had been able to bring 
with him men from all parts of the country; men who would honestly 
investigate, and who were competent to judge, and render an impartial 
decision on the question at issue between him and his critics. Picture 
his satisfaction at this moment when, after men had said, " There is no 
such lake in existence;" "nothing bvit a mud-hole which dries up 
entirely in the summer; " "has no connection with Itasca,'' and many 
other things of like character, he was able to show to honest men a 
beautiful, well-defined lake, running off in the distance nearly two miles 
from whei'e we stood, covering an area of 255 acres, and connected w'ith 
Itasca by a permanent stream, up which we had just run our boat 
bearing five persons. 



496 APPENDIX. 

All freight and passengers had been landed on the ridge, a camp-site 
selected, tents pitched, and many of the odd tm'ns necessary to camp 
comfort had been attended to, and when finally the "Stars and Stripes " 
had been hoisted over our encampment, and the shades of evening 
*began to deepen into night, we were settled in our permanent quarters — 
Camp Trost. 

On the evening of the above date, as we all sat around the camp-fire, 
our leader addressed us briefly, referring to the purposes of this, his 
Second Expedition, and the pending questions for settlement. He said 
his desire was that each one would so thoroughly explore the country 
siu*rounding the Mississippi's Source, that they would all be prepared 
and qualified to render an intelligent and a decided verdict. He also 
expressed his willingness to place the result entirely in our hands. 

At " roll-call" the morning of August twenty -fifth, all expressed a 
desire to see Pine or Nicollet Creek, to which a pretended investigator 
has lately tried to give prominence, and to that point we first directed 
our steps. The survej'ors chained the creek, measured its width and the 
volume of water. About a mile from the point where it enters Itasca, 
we came to a pond about three acres in area, and covered with lily- 
pads. Passing this pond, a short distance farther on we came to a 
second lakelet. These two ponds, or lakelets, are the so-called Nicollet's 
"First and Second Lakes." "Nicollet's Third Lake" is divided from 
the former two by a ridge about fifty feet high. I am firmly of the belief 
that if geographers can find nothing of more importance beyond Itasca 
than Nicollet Creek, Schoolcraft's lake would still claim its old distinc- 
tion. Going farther south a distance of six miles, we came to Lakes 
Whipple, The Triplets, Morrison, and Hernando De Soto, in turn, the last 
named pronounced by the '•investigator" above referred to the Source 
of the Mississippi. Notwithstanding all traces of running water tribu- 
tary to Itasca had stopped at "Nicollet's Second Lake," we were all 
curious to see " Lake Hernando De Soto." Imagine our disgust when, 
after a tramp of six miles, through a forest almost impassable, which 
took us five hours, we saw the lake— the place where a lake had been 
—a lake with three arms, two of which had dried up; a lake having 
neither inlet nor outlet. We felt we had been duped by misrepresenta- 
tion into this toilsome, fruitless journey. We next turned our attention 
to Lalc3 Glazier and its feeders. 

One by one the questions giving motive to our toilsome undertaking 
are answering themselves. There is a lake beyond Itasca, well defined, 
and surrounded by high hills ; a lake with five permanent feeders, two 
of which have their origin in ponds as large as "Nicollet's Second 
Lake." Lake Glazier, the one referred to, has an average sounding of 
forty-five feet, and a surface of 255 acres. It is connected with Itasca 
by a stream twenty feet in width. All this is the result of careful surveys. 
After a thorough investigation, and in view of all the facts, together 
with full cognizance of the geographical definition of the source of a 
river, I, with every member of the party, am prepared to say that Lake 
Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi; that Captain Glazier was right 
in 1881, as has been verified in lb91. He was the first to coast this lake 



APPEI^"DIX. 497 

and explore its feeders, and the first to establish its true relation to the 
Mississippi. He was the first to map it and its affluents, and to make its 
existence known to geographers and the world. Schoolcraft was not the 
first white man to see Itasca, yet he was the first to connect it with the 
Mississippi, and to him is accorded the merit of the discovery of the sup- 
posed source. In like manner should be accorded to Captain Glazier the 
credit of discovering the True Source of the river. 

Saturday, August twenty-ninth, our investigations at the Headwaters 
were completed, and in the afternoon we all assembled on the picturesque 
promontory at the southern end of Lake Glazier. Here the Captain 
addressed us, and reviewed his labors in 1881, and ours in 1891. He 
appealed to us in the strongest terms to be just, candid, and unbiased 
in rendering our verdict to the public as to what we honestly believed to 
be the extreme head or True Source of the river. 

The report of the surveyors was then read, and the members of the 
party, without a single exception, expressed their fullest concurrence 
with it. 

Sunday we rested, and in the afternoon religious service was con- 
ducted by Rev. H. Crane, in front of the camp and facing Lake Glazier. 

August thirty -first. We break camp this morning and start on our 
journey back to civilization and our homes, and if we are worn and 
sunburnt, we are all most haj^py to be able to report unconditional suc- 
cess of our trip in every particular. The lake to the south of Itasca, 
named in 1881 Lake Glazier, is beyond question the Source of the 
Mississippi. 

W. S. Shure. 



32 



a. 

EDITORIAL COMMENT. 

The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the 
Mississippi evoked much favorable comment from the press. 
Credit was awarded the Explorer for his praiseworthy effort 
to settle the long-disputed question of the True Source of the 
Great River and the successful issue of his enterprise. Cap- 
tain Glazier's Report in full, on the return of the Expedition, 
was addressed to many of the Geographical and Historical 
Societies, and published in most of the leading journals of the 
country. 

Minnesota enjoys the distinction of having within her bor- 
ders the cradle of the mighty river, and is entitled to be heard 
first. We therefore quote from the columns of her leading 
journals, beginning with the Dispatch of Saint Paul, in which 
the following editorial introduced the Glazier Report on the 
Results of the Expedition of 1891: 

" Elsewhere in to-day's issue of the Dispatch is given the Report of 
Captain Willard Glazier to the President of the American Geographical 
Society upon the Source of the Mississippi River. It is a long docu- 
ment, but should not be briefly glanced at on that account. Captain Gla- 
zier has the pleasing faculty of arranging facts and figures in a most 
effective and entertaining manner, and of expressing himself clearly 
and forcibly. There is not a dry or prosy sentence in the whole of this 
Report. It presents in very interesting form all the information which 
has been gathered relative to an important geographical question upon 
which there has been some little difference of opinion. 

"The main points of the dispute about the Source of the Mississippi 
are quite generally known, and the corroborative light which is now 
thrown on the claim made by Captain Glazier, after his first visit in 1S81, 
will be received and read with a great deal of satisfaction by the many 
who have felt all along that he was in the right. Even should the facts 
now published not be accepted by the opponents of the Captain — and so 
bitter and unreasoning is their hostility to him that it is probable thqy 
wUl decline to accept even this Report — the public in general will have 
benefited much by his explorations. 

" The Report opens with a succinct review of the situation prior to 

(498) 



appe:n"dix. 499 

and after his Exploration of 1881. Lake Itasca had long borne the credit 
of being the head of the Great River, but Captain Glazier was led to the 
belief that an error had been made, and that the True Source lay beyond 
Itasca. On the twenty-second of July, 1881, he located a basin of water 
south of Itasca as the Primal Reservoir, and made public his discovery. 
This lake has been since known as Lake Glazier. Its Indian name was 
Pokegama— the ' place where the waters gather.' His announcement of 
the finding of a Reservoir beyond Itasca was greeted with a storm of 
criticism and unbelief by unfriendly and jealous parties, and he has had 
to stand the abuse of those who had no ground for argument. ' The antag- 
onism,' he says, ' thus developed by an honest attempt to estabhsh a geo- 
graphical truth, together with the fact that, even at this late day, some 
of our leading educators still believe in the error of Lake Itasca, led me 
to decide upon another visit to the Itasca Basin, having for its object 
the most thorough investigation and a final settlement of the vexed 
question which had occupied the attention of geographers for over ten 
years.' 

" He then proceeds to describe his preparations for the Second 
Expedition, and introduces us to the members of his party, all gentle- 
men of education and good standing, whose indorsement or refutation 
might be accepted without question. They set out on August seven- 
teenth, 1891, and lost no time in making their way to the scene of action. 

" Having reviewed the explorations of those who preceded his earlier 
visit, and briefly referred to recent investigations, he presents in detail, 
from his daily field-notes, the observations of his Second Expedition. 
One noticeable feature of these field-notes is the very evident desire 
manifested by Captain Glazier to be accurate in all his measurements 
and thorough in his investigations. Honesty of purpose is everywhere* 
apparent. The daily work is minutely, but not tediously, described, and 
the Report embraces a vast quantity of valuable information. Sub- 
joined to it are the individual indorsements of all the members of the 
party. 

"Whatever maybe the final outcome of the investigation, it can not 
be successfully disputed that Captain Willard Glazier has done more than 
any other explorer to demonstrate the absolute correctness of the loca- 
tion of the Head of the Mississippi. More than ten years ago he fitted 
out an Expedition at great expense, and after careful research and scien- 
tific investigation presented the results of his explorations, tending 
to overthrow the established or accepted claim that Lake Itasca was the 
Foimtain-head of the Great River. His exhaustive treatise was at once 
made a theme of imiversal discussion, and for a considerable period it 
was the one important question written and talked about by the leading 
geographical students of the country. Like all modern innovations, 
however. Captain Glazier's claims were subjected to severe and search- 
ing criticism, and by some to ridicule and virulent opposition. 

'"Who was this daring discoverer who ventured to take issue with 
the history and traditions of the early decades? ' 

" The fact that the pubUshed reports of Captain Glazier raised such 
a cyclonic outburst was in itself sufllcient to prove that his claims were 



500 APPEI^DIX. 

worthy of consideration, and notwithstanding the pronounced opposition 
of a few whose opinions were considered valuable, the new theory was 
accepted by most of the leading geographers. 

" Thus the contention has been going on ever since the First Expedition 
of 1881. Last summer Captain Glazier again organized an expedition 
and spent some time at the Headwaters, with the result that every 
member of his expedition confu'med his claim in regard to the True 
Source of the River." 



The Winona Republican in February, 1892, published 
Captain Glazier's report in full, preceded by the following 
editorial: 

"The Report of Captain WiUard Glazier's Second Expedition to the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi, herewith pubhshed, is a paper of suffi- 
cient popular interest to insure for it a general and an attentive perusal. 
The circumstances attending this second visit of Captain Glazier to the 
Som'ce of the Great River are more or less familiar to the readers of the 
Republican^ but in the Report now made public they are so succinctly 
yet clearly reviewed as to give the narrative a new and personal interest 
that attached to no preceding reference to the subject under notice. 
For half a century Lake Itasca had been regarded as the source of the 
Mississippi, but Captain Glazier was led to the belief that an error had 
been made, and that the True Source lay beyond. In July, 1881, he 
personally visited the Headwaters, and after a close and careful explora- 
tion located a lake south of Itasca as the Primal Reservoir. This lake, 
known to the aboriginal inhabitants of that region as Pokegama, has 
'since been placed on many maps, and is generally designated Lake 
Glazier. The claim of Captain Glazier to having made this discovery 
was vigorously contested by certain interested parties, and the dis- 
coverer subjected to the severest personal criticism. Undismayed by 
the assaults made upon him, Captain Glazier determined to fortify his 
position by a second and still more thorough investigation. On this 
occasion he was accompanied by a party of gentlemen of education and 
high standing in the several communities where they reside, whose 
indorsement or disproof of his views might be regarded as conclusive 
in relation to all tlie physical facts coming under observation. The 
result is now before the public and the testimony should be weighed 
according to its merit. It is particularly to be noted in perusing Captain 
Glazier's Report that his observations were carried on with much care 
and apparent accuracy. The measurements were made by an expert, 
and all the investigations were participated in, and are unqualifiedly 
indorsed by the individual members of the party. Honesty of purpose 
is manifest throughout. 

" Amid all the contention and doubt, thus far one thing is certain: No 
such careful and thorough exploration of the Headwaters of the Missis- 
sippi has been made by any other investigator as that recently com- 
pleted by Captain Glazier. If, in the interest of historic truth and geo- 
graphical accuracy, his claim is to be frowned down, the evidence upon 



APPENDIX. 501 

which it is done ought not to be less trustworthy or convincing than that 
presented in his behalf. We strongly recommend a careful perusal of 
his Report, which is addressed to the Hon. Charles P. Daly, LL. D., 
President of the American Geographical Society.'' 

From the Washington Star: 

" The question of what lake or stream is the True Source of the Father 
of "Waters is one that has agitated geographers for several years. The 
inclination is to accept the results of Captain AVillard Glazier's explora- 
tions—that of 1881, confirmed and extended by that of 1891 — as conclusive. 
The history of the discovery of the Source of the Mississippi, while not 
so thrilling as the history of the discovery of the source of the Nile, is 
more interesting and important to Americans. 

"Before Schoolcraft's report of 18.32, the existence of the Source 
in Lake Itasca, or its vicinity, was not known. Although several sur- 
veys were made subsequently, it was not until the Glazier Expedition of 
July, 1881, that the Source was finally located south of Itasca in a com- 
paratively large lake called after the discoverer. If geographers were 
not inclined to trace the sources of rivers, where possible, to lakes, 
rather than to flowing streams. Excelsior Creek, the longest feeder of 
Lake Glazier, would be considered justly as the Fountain-head of the 
Great River of North America." 

From the Davenport Democrat: 

" Dr. Charles E. Harrison is at home again after his wanderings 
about the Headwaters of the Mississippi as a member of the Glazier 
party, representing the Davenport Academy of Sciences. He had fully 
as inteiesting and insti'uctive a trip as he expected, and is glad he went. 

" The party was composed of between fifteen and twenty persons, 
amon^ them Miss Alice Glazier, the only daughter of the head of the 
Expedition. The start was jnade from Minneapolis, August seventeenth. 
The train was left at Park Rapids, and wagons were taVen to Lake 
Itasca, which was reached August twenty-third. The wagon journey 
was fraught with much interest, but not with much comfort. The party 
walked by preference. They do not have paved streets up there, but 
some of the roughest country to be found in the Mississippi Valley; no 
settlers, no roads, no civilization ; but wilderness, hard work, deer, and 
bears. A member of the party shot a bear en route. 

" Camps were pitched after the first day on a height of land sepa- 
rating Lake Itasca from Lake Glazier. Thence the party explored the 
region. The two surveyors went ahead and the members of the party 
followed. Dr. Harrison saw enough to convince him that Captain Gla- 
zier has a valid claim to the honor of being the man to make the first 
announcement that Lake Itasca is not the Source of the Mississiijpi, but 
that the other lake to the south of it is. Lake Itasca had been visited 
by white men at the very opening of the nineteenth century, but it 
remained for Schoolcraft, in 1832, to make the announcement that it was 
the source. Captain Glazier was the man to make formal announcement 
of the fact that the lake to the south, and not Itasca, is the True Source. 



502 APPENDIX. 

Dr. Harrison is well satisfied that Lake Itasca has little relation to the 
Mississippi beyond that possessed by Lake Pepin ; the river simply flows 
through it. The members of the party, after looking over all the ground 
in the most careful manner, came to the conclusion that the claim of the 
Captain is well founded, and that the majority of the geographers have 
done the right thing in following his lead as they have done. Dr. 
Harrison says he went there with the intention to be critical and find 
fault, if there were any evidences of crooked work on the part of Cap- 
tain Glazier, but admits that all was fair and square, and there is nothing 
to indicate that Captain Glazier is not fully entitled to the credit he 
claims.'" 

From the Minneapolis Times: 

" Lake Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi River. 

" That is the unanimous verdict of the gentlemen who have just 
returned from an Expedition to the Headwaters of the Great River. 
They have made a report of their explorations in which facts are given 
which establish to their satisfaction the fallacy of all other theories. 
That Lake Itasca is only the approximate source of the Mississippi has 
long been known. The real source has been the subject of a long dis- 
pute among geographers. Itasca is fed by running water, and the 
Ultimate Source of the Mississippi could only be ascertained by tracing 
the 'sources' of Itasca. In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier explored the 
waters about Lake Itasca, and came to the conclusion that the lake now 
known as Lake Glazier was the actual source of the big river. Then 
some one else traced Nicollet Creek up to the three Nicollet ponds, and 
made the contention that the real source of the Mississippi was the last 
of these ponds, misnamed lakes. The same party afterward changed 
his mind and pronounced ' Lake Hernando De Soto '' to be the Source. 
Captain Glazier has never weakened on his theory that the Glazier Lake 
is the real Source, and the party above referred to has stubbornlj' 
argued in favor of the ' De Soto Lake.' The controversy has awakened 
great interest throughout the country. A short time ago a party was 
organized to explore the Headwaters of the river and ascertain the facts 
relating thereto. Captain Glazier headed the expedition, but none of the 
gentlemen who accompanied him were prejudiced or influenced in any 
way. It was a large party, composed of geographers, scientists, editors, 
surveyors, and men of good standing, all of whom, we are informed, 
were strangers to Captain Glazier. 

"The trip through the wilderness from Park Rapids to the Headwaters 
was by no means a pleasant one. It was slow and tedious work to get 
the horses and wagons through the wild forest, and the trail was so rough 
that the travelers found it necessary to walk the greater part of the dis- 
tance. After a two days' tramp the expedition reached the east arm of 
Lake Itasca about noon on Saturday, August twenty-second. After a 
short rest they launched their canoes and conveyed themselves and 
their chattels to Schoolcraft Island, on which they pitched their tents 
Saturday evening. The party remained on the island over Sunday. 
They were a very tirel lot of people, and a Sunday's rest was never so 
much appreciated by them before. 



APPEKDIX. 503 



'* The party removed their tents from Schoolcraft Island to the shore 
of Lake Glazier Monday morning, and encamped on the high ridge sep- 
arating that lake from Lake Itasca. Then began the work of exploring 
the waters. They made a careful examination of Lake Itasca, and found 
that it had no affluents of any consequence except Nicollet Creek and 
the stream that connected Itasca with Lake Glazier. Nicollet Creek was 
traced to the Nicollet ponds, as far as there was running water. The 
distance was carefully measured, and it proved to be 7,309| feet from 
Lake Itasca to the farthest of the Nicollet lakelets. Then considerable 
time was spent in examining Lake Glazier and its feeders. 

" It was ascertained that Excelsior Creek was the longest one flowing 
into Lake Glazier, it measuring 8,778 feet. The distance from the mouth 
of Excelsior Creek to the creek connecting Glazier and Itasca lakes was 
found to be 4,229 feet. The length of the connecting creek measured 
1,100 feet. This made a total distance of 14,107 feet from Lake Itasca to 
the source of Excelsior Creek. Therefore, if the source of the Missis- 
sippi is the farthest point from whence there is rimning water, it stands 
out clearly that the soiu-ce of Excelsior Creek is the source of the Missis- 
sippi. And as Excelsior Creek is merely a feeder to Lake Glazier, that 
lake should figure as the Real Som-ce of the Great River. These were the 
conclusions of all the members of the expedition, without exception. 

" The expedition did not overlook the ' De Soto Lake.*' A long tramp 
from the south shore of Lake Glazier over a swampy ridge brought the 
party to this so-called lake. They made a thorough examination of it, 
and failed to find that it had either inlet or outlet. In fact, the party 
became thoroughly convinced that the ' De Soto ' was nothing more 
than a dead lake or pond. How any of its boggy water could possibly 
reach the Mississippi is a question they were unable to solve." 

From the Philadelphia Telegraph: 

" The Second Glazier Expedition to the Headwaters of the Mississippi 
River returned to Park Rapids, Minnesota, last evening. The party 
claims that the Glazier Lake is the Real Source of the Great River of 
North America. It was found to cover an area of 255 acres, and is con- 
nected with Lake Itasca by a creek about 1, 100 feet long. The lake is fed 
by four tributaries, besides which streams there are, on the east shore, 
several iron springs. The only other important feeder of Lake Itasca is 
Nicollet Creek, which enters Itasca about a quarter of a mile west of the 
outlet of the creek from Glazier Lake. Itasca is supplied by two princi- 
pal affluents. One of these, Nicollet Creek, drains a tamarack swamp, 
has nothing worthy of the name of a lake in its course, and has a source 
7,307 feet from Itasca. The other is a narrower stream, but flows from 
a fine lake, the source of whose remote feeder is 14,106 feet from Itasca.'' 

From the Dubuque Trade Journal: 

" It is a singular fact that neither governments nor religious associa- 
tions have ever achieved anything remarkable in aid of discovery in 
either the realm of abstract or concrete science. History shows that 
individual energy and talent have always led in innovations and the 
establishment of principles that make for truth and the enlightenment 



504 APPE'N'DIX. 

and welfare of mankind. On the part of the Government, when not 
wilUng to be a bar to progress, and designedly obstructive, Its efforts are 
usually placed in the hands of mediocre persons because they happen to 
be partisans seeking the emoluments of position and influence. Religious 
associations, being sectarian and dogmatic, are apprehensive, and fear 
the least interference with their doctrines, mysteries, and faith. Within 
their domain anything conceived to be like ' vain babblings and opposi- 
tions of science falsely so-called,'' is not tolerated, and short work is 
made of it by persecution. The reason of all this is not inscrutable, for 
neither science nor philosophy is within their purview. The proper 
functions of government are the conservation of the State and the pro- 
tection of life, liberty, and property of the individual, as far as may be 
consistent with the enjoyment.of the same rights by others. The 
fimction of the religionist is to conserve the faith and practice its duties. 

" It is the individual initiative, self-denying, and laborious action that 
solves difficult problems, makes successful discoveries, and accomplishes 
anything that ultimately results in increasing knowledge. That their 
efforts should ever be interfered with, cramped, or impaired by hire- 
lings of official and corporate regulation, is indeed to be regretted by 
every one who sincerely desires the benefit of truth and the welfare of 
his race. 

"An instance of the kind alluded to is now presented in Minnesota. A 
controversy is raging there concerning the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi River, between Captain Willard Glazier and the Minnesota His- 
torical Society. The latter claims to be a ' co-ordinate branch of the 
State Government,' and its partisan officials leisurely enjoy place and 
profit. Long ago the Society heard that Itasca was a lake in their State, 
which Schoolcraf visited in 1832, and supposed it to be the Source of 
the Mississippi River. This, the paid employes of the Historical Society 
accepted without disturbance to its somnolent movements, and rested in 
contented ignorance of the True Source, as well as of everything else in 
that region. The chronic hypnotism of the Society continued until 1881, 
when Captain Willard Glazier, a New Yorker, having doubts about 
Itasca being verily the source, explored the Headwaters of the river, and 
exploded the error. This being a geogi*aphical matter, and the fact of 
the newly discovered Source a geographical truth, one is puzzled to know 
what a purely historical society had to do with it. Nevertheless, the 
Society aroused itself from its Rip Van Winkle slumbers, and boldly 
proclaimed a denial, and stoutly insisted that Itasca was the ultimate 
origin. Since then, at the expense of the tax-payers, some examination 
about and beyond Itasca has been made under the management of one 
J. V. Brower. It was clearly seen that Itasca must go out into the cold. 
But jealousy of the foreigner would not permit the acceptance of his 
discovery, and another Source of the river must be devised. So, entirely 
ignoring the beautiful Lake Glazier, 255 acres in area, the Minnesota 
Falstafif first glanced at 'the clouds, the source of all our rivers,' 
then traced a feeder of Itasca a short distance through two ponds to a 
spring at the foot of a hill. Hypothetically, the hill was tunneled, 
and onward the hero went. Isolated bogs, ponds, and lakelets were 



appe:n"DIx. 505 

found, all within a compass of five or six miles square, and situated in a 
general depression of ground. Archasological science now seized 
Brower, and to his imagination a glacier once roughly scooped out 
this region in which pools, rills, Lake Glazier, Lake Itasca — all— are now 
situated. The huge chunk of ice on melting formed a prehistoric lake, 
which has since subsided to the present aspect of the locality of the 
Headwaters of America's most noted river. This he proudly named 
'LakeUpham,' divided it into ' Greater, Midway, and Lesser Ultimate 
Reservoir Bowls,*' and presented his farrago to the Minnesota Historical 
Society, as 'Itasca Basin, the Source of the Mississippi.' Finally, the 
learned theorizer suggested to his employers that a ' legislative enact- 
ment prohibit unauthorized, erroneous, and deceptive changes in the 
State map, so assiduously i^ersisted in from mercenary (!) motives.' 

"Now, gentle reader, when you have perused the foregoing, just 
remember that while the Minnesota Historical Society was in happy 
ignorance of any topography beyond Lake Itasca, Captain Willard Gla- 
zier^entered those northern wilds and found a beautiful body of water 
beyond Itasca, and connected with it by a perennial stream. He correctly 
mapped its feeders, stated its relation to Itasca, and pronounced that 
body of water the True Source of the Mississippi. This is what the 
Society, by its instrument, Brower, seeks to supplant by substituting the 
dried bed of an extinct, hypothetic, prehistoric lake, from whose now 
three arid and jack-pine covered ' ultimate reservoir bowls ' water is 
supposed to ooze into Lakes Glazier and Itasca. Than this can vagary 
farther go?*" 

From tlie Chicago Inter Ocean: 

" The controversy as to the Source of the Mississippi River has placed 
before the public a vast amount of new information of an interesting 
character. In 1881, Captain Willard Glazier made an Expedition to the 
Headwaters of the Mississippi, and announced that he had discovered 
that Lake Itasca could not be regarded as the True Source of the Great 
River. He found a fine lake to the south of Lake Itasca, since called 
Lake Glazier — and which he claimed was the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi, 3,184 miles from the Gulf of Mexico, with an elevation above the 
ocean of 1,582 feet. Captain Glazier started from Brainerd, Minnesota, 
on the twelfth of July, 1881, intending to go to Lake Itasca, or the Head- 
waters of the Mississippi, and make a canoe voyage to the Gulf. In the 
course of this expedition he discovered the new lake to the south of 
Itasca. He started from there in a canoe, and made the long journey 
down the Mississippi, reaching the Gulf of Mexico November fifteenth. 
On his return he published the narrative of this expedition, and claimed 
the discovery of the True Source of the IMississippi. 

"August seventeenth last, Cai^tain Glazier and several gentlemen, 
interested in the question of the Source of the Great River, left Minne- 
apolis to make a second survey. They made a careful investigation of 
Lake Glazier, and in their Report pronounce it a beautiful sheet of 
water over a mile and a half in length and nearly as wide, in extent 
255 acres, its depth forty-five feet. Lake Glazier is connected with 



506 APPEITDIX. 

Itasca by a permanent stream 1,100 feet long. This has a brisk current, 
and carried enough water to afford passage to the boats between the two 
lakes. The Glazier Lake is fed by four tributaries, the largest of which 
is Excelsior Croek, one mile and five-eighths long. A careful report is 
also made of Nicollet Creek. The first of the Nicollet ' Lakes ' is described 
as a pond of about three acres ; the second, a lakelet about twelve acres 
in extent; the third, beyond a high ridge, is about ten acres in extent. 
The party of explorers unanimously decide in favor of Lake Glazier 
as the True Source of the Mississippi." 

From the Albany Knickerbocker: 

" Ever since Captain Glazier announced that the True Source of the 
Father of Waters was not the Itasca Lake, in contravention of the geog- 
raphers, he has been made the target of much scientific and non- 
scientific abuse. This has frequently been the lot of discoverers and 
explorers, from Columbus to Mungo Park— even down to our own 
Stanley. 

"We learn from the Saint Paul Dispatch that the Glazier Expedition 
was in camp on the northern shore of Lake Glazier, Minnesota, August 
twenty -fifth. A member of the exploring party writes to our contem- 
porary an interesting account of the expedition which is being made by 
wagon from Park Rajjids, the nearest civilized point to the Head of the 
River. The party was organized to investigate the groimds upon which 
Captain Glazier bases his claim to have located the True Source of the 
Mississippi, and is composed of several scientists and geographers. The 
correspondent of the Dispatch, whose impartiality may be reasonably 
supposed to be above question, has this to say on the merits of the 
controversy: 

'"I may here remark that I have but little faith in Mr. Brewer's nu- 
merous and fantastical sources. I have carefully watched the nature and 
progress of his controversy with Captain Glazier, and can scarcely attrib- 
ute his errors to misinformation, but rather to an unworthy desire to 
disprove by any means, fair or foul, Glazier's claim to have definitely 
located the True Source of the river in 1881. I believe Mr. Brower has, 
at different times, announced several lakes and ponds as sources of the 
Mississippi. The conclusion is forced upon me that he is most probably 
no nearer the truth in his last venture— some particulars of which are 
given in his report to his Excellency the Governor— than he was in his 
first. Captain Glazier, on the other hand, in 1881, announced to the 
world that the Source of our majestic river was unquestionably in a lake 
of comparatively large dimensions lying to the south of Itasca Lake, and 
persistently adheres to his announcement, with the full force of con- 
viction, at the present day. Nothing can move him from his position ; 
not even the wooden ' monument ' erected by his ambitious adversary 
on the crest of the ridge which separates Itasca from the True Source, 
by which it is conspicuously evident that Mr. Brower hopes to perpetuate 
his own name as the chronicler of a proved error innocently made by the 
ethnologist Schoolcraft. I have very little doubt that Captain Glazier's 
position on this question will eventually be confirmed by the unanimous 
concm-rence of geographers and competent judges.' " 




(507) 



H 

Iiq^DORSEMENT. 

In this last section of the Appendix, I respectfully pre- 
sent for the reader's consideration the indorsements and views, 
First, of persons long resident in Minnesota, to whom the 
question of the Source of the Great River may be supposed to 
be one of more than ordinary interest ; and who, from their 
proximity to its Headwaters, are, doubtless, in some respects 
better qualified to pronounce upon the weight of evidence 
adduced in support of the Glazier claim. Secondly, the 
Indorsements of geographers, educational publishers, and 
others who have given attention to the subject and arrived at 
decided conclusions; and Thirdly, the unanimous testimony 
of tlie Committee of Investigation of the Second Glazier 
Expedition, who thoroughly examined and surveyed every 
lake, pond, and stream, and every foot of ground at the 
Head of the river, with the single object of locating its True 
Source. 

I. 

RESIDENTS OP MINNESOTA. 
From Hon. A. B. McGill, Ex-Oovernor: 

"Captain Glazier's claim to be the discoverer of the True Source of 
the Mississippi seems reasonable, to say the least. I have been a resi- 
dent of Minnesota twenty-six years, and never until Captain Glazier's 
expedition heard the claim of Itasca being the Source of the Great River 
seriously questioned." 

From Hon. Horace Austin, Ex-Oovernor: 
" I think that it would be a very proper thing to do under the circum- 
stances that Captain Glazier's services should be recognized by the pas- 
sage of a bill by the Legislature giving his name to the lake which is the 
Real Source of the Mississippi." 



From Hon. W. //. Gale, Ex-Lieutenant-Governor, Winona: 

"I have been a resident of Minnesota for more than twenty-eight 
years, and I believe it was the generally accepted opinion of the people 

(508) 



APPENDIX. 509 

of this State that Lake Itasca was the Source of the Mississippi River, 
until after the expedition of Captain Willard Glazier, and his publication 
to the world that another lake south of Lake Itasca was the True Source, 
to which lake has been given the name of Lake Glazier. This is now 
generally recognized as the True Source and Head of the Mississippi, and 
Captain Glazier as the man who first made known that fact to the 
world.'' 



From F. W. Seeley, Adjutant-General: 

"I desire to say, in justice to Captain Glazier, that, having been a 
resident of Minnesota for twenty-five years, and quite familiar with 
the geography of the State, it is my belief that he was the first to dis- 
cover the True Source of the Mississippi River and publish it to the 
world." 



From Moses E. Clapj), Attorney-General: 

"From such information as I have on the subject, I am convinced 
that the actual Source of the Mississippi had not been recognized prior 
to the published accounts of the explorations of Captain Willard 
Glazier." 



From H. W. Childs, Assistant Attorney-General: 

"There is, in my opinion, no reason or ground for disputing Captain 
Glazier's claim to have located the body of water now undoubtedly 
regarded as the Source of the Mississippi River, and appropriately namea 
Lake Glazier." 



From Gus. H. Beaulieu, Deputy U. S. Marshal, District of Minnesota: 

"Having been born and raised in the State of Minnesota, and a resi- 
dent of White Earth Indian Reservation, and being familiar with the 
Indian traditions, I certify that Itasca Lake had never been considered 
the Soiu-ce of the Mississippi by the best-informed Chippewa Indians. 
Although I had never seen any pubUshed maps to the contrary, prior to 
the expedition of Captain Glazier in 1881, from the best information I 
have among the Indians, I now regard Lake Glazier as the True Source 
of the Mississippi River. I regard his chief guide, Chenowagesic, as the 
best authority among the Indians regarding the section of country about 
the Headwaters of the Mississippi, and consider him thoroughly 
'eliable." 



From W. S. Tingle, St. Paul Globe: 

"After a study of the literature of the subject, I am convinced that 
the lake to which the name of Glazier was given by the Glazier explor- 
ing expedition is undoubtedly the True Source of the Mississippi, and 
that Captain Glazier was the first to call general public attention to the 
fact." 



510 APPENDIX. 

From Major Will E. Haskell, Editor Minneapolis Tribune: 

"There can be no longer any doubt, when the question is carefully 
considered, that the credit of discovering the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi belongs to Captain Willard Glazier. Captain Glazier's discovery 
has now become an accepted geographical fact, and future generations 
of school-boys wiU speak knowingly of Lake Glazier, as we did in our 
youth of Itasca.'" 

From Bev. W. T. Chase, Pastor First Baptist Church, Minneapolis: 

" There seems no room for reasonable doubt that the actual Source 
of the Mississippi had never been recognized until Captain Glazier made 
its discovery in 1881. " 



From Rev. J. L. Pitner, Pastor M. E. Church, Minneapolis: 

" I am convinced that the Real Source of the Mississippi was not known 
prior to 1881. lam quite sure the claims of Lake Glazier are not ill- 
founded, and in its deep, cool bosom the Great River takes its rise." 



From J. S. McLain, Evening Journal, Minneapolis: 

"I have no reason to question the claim that the body of water 
which bears the name of Lake Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi.'"' 



From Ex-Mayor Pillsbury, Minneapolis: 

" I am satisfied that Captain Willard Glazier was the first person that 
discovered, and made public the discovery, of the True Source of the 
Mississippi." 



From Hon. Samuel E. Adams, Monticello, Member of the Minnesota 

Historical Society: 

"I have no doubt of the correctness of Captain Glazier's statement 
and that he discovered the new Source bearing his name." 



From John H. Elliott, Secretary Y. M. C. A., Minneapolis: 

" I have no hesitation in saying that I believe Lake Glazier to be the 
Real Source of the Mississippi." 



From Hon. J. G. Lawrence, Ex-Senator, Wabasha: 

"I certainly believe Captain Glazier is entitled to the credit of dis- 
covering the True Source of the Mississippi." 



From Judge John P. Rea, Ex- Commander-in-Chief G. A. B., 

Minneapolis: 

" I am satisfied that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi." 



APPE^-DIX. 511 

From Judge L. A. Evans, Ex-Mayor, St. Cloud: 
"I believe Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Mississippi." 



From Albert Shaw, Tribune, Minneapolis: 

"Unquestionably, Captain Glazier may claim the credit of having 
called public attention to the lake beyond Itasca. He was the fli'st who 
attached geographical importance to it. That the lake will always be 
called Lake Glazier, I have no doubt; nor do I doubt the propriety of 
the name.'" 



From G. M. Wing, Secretary Northwest Indian Commission, 

Minneapolis: 

"The lake which Captain Glazier has located is, no doubt, more 
properly the True Source of the Great River than Lake Itasca. Captain 
Glazier was the first to discover that fact, and that should entitle him to 
the honor of naming it.'' 



From Rev. Andrew D. Stowe, Rector Trinity Church, Anoka: 

"This is to certify that from the testimony of Indians and half-breeds 
living at White Earth Agency, Minnesota, during my residence there of 
two years, I am persuaded that Lake Glazier, instead of Itasca, is the 
Real Source of the Mississippi." 



From D. Sinclair, Winona: 

"In the autumn of 1862 I spent several weeks in that portion of 
Northern Minnesota extending from Crow Wing to Leech Lake, and 
the country about Red Lake, in company with Paul Beaulieu, the well- 
known Indian guide and interpreter. During a conversation as to the 
Source of the Mississippi, Beaulieu informed me that Lake Itasca was 
not the Real Source of that river, but that a smaller lake, located a short 
distance south of Itasca, was entitled to that distinction. After investi- 
gating the matter recently, I have no doubt of the genuineness of Cap- 
tain Glazier's claim to be the person Avho first publicly estabhshed the 
fact that the lake which now bears his name is the True Source of the 
Mississippi River." 



From William A. Spencer, Clerk United States District Court, Saint 

Paul: 

"I have resided in Minnesota upward of thirty years, and until 
recently have always thought that Lake Itasca was the Soiu-ce of the 
Mississippi ; but after an examfnation of the claim of Captain Glazier to 
be the discoverer of the True Source, I am satisfied his claim is well 
founded." 



512 APPENDIX. 

From O. C. Chase, Chairman County Commissioners, Otter-Tail County: 

" From information received, I am fully satisfied that Captain. 
Glazier was the first person to publicly announce the True Source of the 
Mississippi." 



From John J. Ankeny, Postmaster, Minneapolis: 

"From the best information I can obtain, I am persuaded that the 
Som'ce of the Mississippi had not been recognized prior to the 
published accounts of exploration by Captain Willard Glazier in 1881. I 
think, therefore, he is entitled to the credit of the discovery.''' 



From P. P. Swenson, Sheriff, Hennepin County: 

"After a residence of thirty-two years in the State of Minnesota, 
imtil recently I have always supposed that Lake Itasca was the Source 
of the Mississippi River. I am now well informed of its True Source 
being Lake Glazier, having personally traversed that section of the 
State." 



From John F. Peterson, Register of Deeds, Minneapolis: 

"I have resided in Minnesota for the past eighteen years, and fully 
believe that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Mississippi.'" 



From C. P. De Laithe, Superintendent of Schools, Aitkin County: 

"I recognize Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi River. 
Have resided in Aitkin for several years.'" 



From J. H. Hallett, Brainerd: 

" I recognize the lake discovered by Captain Glazier as the Real 
Source of the Mississippi. Have been an Indian trader for the past 
fifteen years.'" 



From Hon. N. Richardson, Little Falls, Judge of Probate of Morrison 

County: 

"I have resided on the banks of the Mississippi for thirty -one years. 
Met Captain Glazier at Little Falls with his exploring party, that visited 
the headwaters of this river in the summer of 1881. From information 
derived from sources that I consider reliable, I regard Lake Glazier as 
the True Source of the Great River. Have been a member of the 
Minnesota Legislature for three terms."" 



/ 



APPENDIX. 513 



From O. L. Clyde, First Lieutenant National Guard, Little Falls: 

"I have been a resident of Northern Minnesota for twenty years, 
and always supposed that Lake Itasca was the sovirce of the Mississippi. 
I never heard anything to the contrary until the year 1881, when 
Captain Glazier explored the Upper Mississippi, and made his report of 
the same. I now recognize Lakk Glazier as the True Source of the 
Great River." 



From Moses La Fond, Little Falls: 

"Lake Glazier is now considered the True Source of the Mississippi. 
I am one of the old pioneers of this State, having resided in the northern 
section for over thirty-two years, and was a member of the Legislature 
in 1874." 



From, R. CronJc, of the Government Survey, Sauk Rapids: 

" This is to certify that I was compass-man on the survey of town- 
ship 143 north, range 36 west of 5th principal meridian, which embraces 
Itasca Lake (the Indian name of which I understood to be Omushkos, or 
Elk Lake), and hereby aflfirm that Lake Glazier is the only well-defined 
body of -water emptying into Lake Itasca, and in my opinion is the 
True Source of the Mississippi." 



From Hon. T. G. Healey, Ex-State Senator, Monticello: 

' ' Have resided in Monticello since 1856. I regard Lake Glazier as 
the True Source of the Mississippi River, and it is now so regarded by 
the people living in this section of Minnesota." 



From, Freeman E. Kreck, Postmaster, Aitkin: 

"I have been a resident of Aitkin County since 1881; have been 
county auditor for past two years, and for a time proprietor and editor 
of the Aitkin Age. Since Captain Glazier's explorations I do not hesi- 
tate to say that I believe Lake Glazier to be the True Primal Reservoir 
of the Mississippi, and I think I voice the sentiment of the majority of 
the residents of this section." 



From A. Y. Merrill, County Attorney, Aitkin: 

"I believe that the lake claimed to have been located by Captain 
Glazier is the Real Source of the Mississippi River." 



From, J. W. Wakefield, Aitkin: 

' ' Resident of Minnesota for thirty years. Personally acquainted with 
Chenowagesic. Indian trader more than fifteen years. Thoroughly 
familiar with the Chippewa language. I recognize Lake Glazier as the 
True Source of the Mississippi River." 
33 



514 APPENDIX. 

From, Lyman P. White, Ex-Mayor, Brainerd: 

"I have been a resident of Brainerd since 1870. Built the first house 
in Brainerd. Have had charge of the town site for the Lake Superior 
and Puget Sound Company for sixteen years. I met Captain Glazier on 
his Mississippi trip, and fully indorse his claim to have discovered the 
True Source of the Mississippi. 



From, W. W. Hartley, Brainerd: 

" Have been a resident of Brainerd for the past fifteen years. Editor 
and publisher of the Tribune from 1875 to 1881, and postmaster fx-om 
1879 to 1886. Met Captain Glazier and his party here in 1881, both 
en route to the source of the Mississippi River and on their return 
voyage by canoe to its mouth. Have no recollection of ever having 
heard any other than Lake Itasca claimed to be the Source of the 
Mississippi prior to the Captain's expedition. Lake Glazier has since 
been accepted and is believed to be its Source." 



From J. H. Kocp, Postm,aster, Brainerd: 

"Have been a resident of this State for sixteen years. Met Captain 
Glazier at the time he made his expedition of discovery to the Source of 
the Mississippi, and I recognize the lake bearing his name as its True 
Source.*" 



From N. H. Ingersoll, Editor Brainerd Dispatch: 

" I fully indorse the statement that Captain Glazier was the first to 
proclaim to the world the True Source of the Mississippi.'" 



From Rev. Fletcher J. Hawley, D. D., Rector of St. PauVs Episcopal 

Church, Brainerd: 

"I have been a resident of Brainerd since 1880, and have not heard 
any one question the truth of Captain Glazier's claim to have discov- 
ered the True Som-ce of the Mississippi to be in Lake Glazier.'" 



From W. W. De Kay, Red Wing: 

"From such information as I have upon the subject, I regard the 
lake located by Captain Glazier, to the south of Itasca, as the True 
Source of the Mississippi. I have resided in Minnesota for thirty-three 
years.'" 

From, William Moore, Superintendent of Schools, Lake City: 

"Knowing the facts in regard to Captain Glazier's discovery of the 
True Source of the Mississippi, as brought out by public discussion, I am 
convinced that he is justly entitled to be considered the discoverer of the 
Source of the Mississippi River.'" 



APPEI^DIX. 515 

From George C. Stout, Mayor, Lake City: 
" I have no doubt that Captain Glazier is fully entitled to the honor 
of first discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi Eiver.'" 



From D. O. Irwin, Postmaster, Lake City: 

"I am convinced that the actual Source of the Mississippi had not 
been recognized before the published account of explorations by Captain 
Glazier ; and I regard Lake Glazier as the True Source of the Great 
River/' 



From H. L. Smith, Editor and Proprietor of the Graphic, Lake City: 

"I am fully convinced that Lake Glazier is the Real Source of the 
Father of Waters. Have resided in Minnesota seventeen years." 



From F. J. Collins, Mayor of Wabasha: 

" I have no doubt that Captain Glazier is fully entitled to the credit 
of having discovered the True Source of the Mississippi River. I have 
resided in Minnesota thirty-one years.'' 



From Hon. James G. Laivrence, Ex-State Senator, Wabasha: 

"I believe Captain Glazier is certainly entitled to the credit of dis- 
covering the True Source of the Mississipi^i, in a lake above Lake Itasca, 
now named after him, Lake Glazier." 



From D. L. Dawley, Principal of Schools, Wabasha: 

" I believe Captain Glazier to be the real discoverer of the True 
Source of the Mississippi River." 



From William Tubbs, Postviaster and Ex-County Auditor, Monticello: 

" Have resided in Minnesota twenty-nine years. Lake Glazier is 
regarded by the people generally of this section as the True Source of 
the Mississippi." 



From W. J. Brown, Principixl of the High School, Monticello: 

"I consider Lake Glazier to be the True Source of the Mississippi, 
and know of no other. I teach the same in the public schools of this 
place, as also do my assistants." 



From Commander A. H. Fitch, Anoka, J. S. CadyPost, O. A. R., Depart- 
ment Minnesota : 

"I am fully convinced that the body of water known as Lake 
Glazier since 1881 is the True Source of the Mississippi, and not Lake 
Itasca." 



516 APPE^-DIX. 

From J. M. Tucker, M. D., Hastings: 

"I believe Captain Glazier's claim to being the discoverer of the 
Real Source of the Mississippi is jii-st, and have never heard it questioned. 
It must stand as one of the facts of history." 



From Daniel O'^Brien, Police Justice, Hastings: 

"I am satisfied that the lake to the south of Itasca, located by Gla- 
zier in 1881, is the Ti-ue Source of the Mississippi, and that Captain 
Glazier is entitled to whatever credit there is in the discovery." 



From J. R. Lambert, Ex-Mayor, Hastings: 

"It has been a generally accepted fact that Lake Itasca was the 
Source of the Mississipj)i River, and Hke many others who have pre- 
ceded me in giving testimonials in favor of Captain Willard Glazier's 
claim as the discoverer of a body of water now known quite generally as 
Lake Glazier, and so represented in many of our standard geographical 
works, I cheerfully admit that Captain Glazier is entitled to credit as 
the discoverer." 



From S. Westerson, Chairman Board of County Com,m,issionerSj 

Hastings: 

"It seems to be clearly proven that there is a lake — now called Lake 
Glazier— which is the True Source of the Mississippi, discovered by 
Captain Willard Glazier in the year 1881, and that said Captain Glazier 
was the first man to make it pubUc. The honor, therefore, in my 
estimation, is due to him." 



^) 



From B. B. Herbert, Editor The Republican, Red Wing: 

" After a careful examination of the claim made for and against the 
reputed discovery of the Head of the Mississippi by Captain WiUard 
Glazier, I am convinced that he was the first to question the received 
statement that Lake Itasca was its Source, and first to connect the lake 
which some respectable geographers have called by his name with the 
Mississippi as its Som-ce. Having lived in Minnesota, on the banks of 
the Mississippi, for nearly thirty years, had any other person claimed to 
have discovered any other Source than Lake Itasca, I should have been 
informed thereof." 



From 8. B. Sheardotvn, M. D., Winona: 
"I beheve that Captain Glazier is entitled to the credit of discovering 
the Real Source of the Mississippi River. I have been a resident of 
Minnesota over thirty -one years." 



From Judge A. F. Storey, St. Vincent: 
"I have no hesitancy in saying that there can be no question but 
that Lake Glazier is the True and Prunal Soiarce of the Mississippi 
River." 



APPENDIX, 517 

From James A. Thompson, Postm,aster, Leech Lake: 

"I am of opinion that Lake Glazier is the Source of the Mississippi. 
I have talked on this subject with some of the Indians who accom- 
panied Captain Glazier on his esploi-ing expedition in 1881, and they all 
say it is the last lake; that they went all the way in their canoes, and 
could go no farther! It is the general belief here that Lake Glazier is 
the True Source." 



From. Paul Beaulieu, United States Interpreter, White Earth Indian 

Agency: 

" I would respectfully state that according to the ideas of the people 
of this section of country, for scores of years past, in alluding to Lake 
Itasca, which is knoivn only as Elk Lake by the original inhabitants of 
this part of the country, was never by them considered as tha Head or 
Source of the Father of Running Waters, or May-see-see-bee, as it is by 
them named. I received a map showing the route of exploration of 
Captain Willard Glazier, 1881, and being well acquainted with his chief 
guide, Chenowagesic, who has made the section of country explored by 
Captain Glazier his home for many years in the past, and who has 
proved the truth of his often -repeated assertion, when maps were shown 
him, that a smaller lake above Lake Itasca would in time change a 
feature of those maps, and proclaim to the world that Lake Itasca can 
not any longer maintain its claim as being the Fountain-head of Ke-chee- 
see-be, or Great River, which is called May-see-see-bee by the Chippewas. 
The*map as delineated by Captain Glazier's guide, Chenowagesic, and 
pubhshed by the Glazier party, is correct; and it is plain to us who know 
the lay of this whole country (I mean by tis the Chippewa tribe in par- 
ticular, also the recent explorers for pine) that Lake Glazier is located 
at the right place, and is the last lake on the longest stream of the 
several rivers at the head of the Great Mississippi." 



From J. O. Simmons, Little Falls: 

"Have been a resident of Little Falls for the past twenty-nine years; 
county attorney and justice of the peace for several years. Would state 
that I am personally acquainted with the half-breed Indian interpreter, 
Paul Beaulieu. Have known him since Jime, 1857, and know him to be a 
person of intelligence, great experience, and personal knowledge of the 
northern portion of Minnesota, which up to very recently has been a 
vast wilderness occupied only by the Chippewas. Have often conversed 
with him relative to the country north of us, and speaking of the 
Mississippi, have heard him say that Lake Itasca was not the Fountain- 
head; that there was a stream emptying its waters into Itasca from a 
lake a short distance above the latter, and which, in his opinion, was the 
True Source. Since Captain Glazier's exploration, I accept the lake 
bearing his name as the True Source of the Mississippi." 



518 APPENDIX. 

II. 

GEOGRAPHERS, EDUCATIONAL, PUBLISHERS, AND OTHERS. 

RoYAi, Geographical, Society, 
London, January 12, 1885. 
Captain Willard Glazier, New York, U. S. A. 

Dear Sir: ... I am happy to be able to send you a copy of the 
January number of the proceedings of om* Society. . . . Your discov- 
ery is considered a distinct addition to our knowledge of the geography 
of the Mississippi basin, and well worttiy of publication by the Society. 

Your obedient servant, 

H. W. Bates, 

Assistant Secretary and Editor. 



George W. Melville, the famed Arctic Explorer, writes: 

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 

February 5, 1885. 
Captain Willard Glazier: 

Dear Sir: Your very interesting paper and map of the discovery 

of the Source of the Mississippi came to hand this morning. Having 

but a single number of your paper, I can form but an inadequate idea 

of your labor and patience, except by a look at your map, which is a 

very good one, and shows an immense amount of labor; in fact, I am 

astonished at the amount of work done in so short a space of time as is 

shown on your track chart. 

I am gratified at being made the recipient of your favor; and with 

sentiments of the highest esteem and regard for a worthy brother in the 

world of science, I am, dear sir. 

Very respectfully, 

George "W. Melville, 

Chief Engineer, U. S. Navy, 



Geographers and educational publishers of America and 
Europe have not only made the necessary changes in their 
maps of Minnesota, but have expressed their recognition and 
acceptance of the Glazier discovery in letters addressed to 
friends of the Captain. Among these may be mentioned: 
Eand, McNally & Co., George F. Cram, George H. Benedict 
& Co., of Chicago; Matthews, Northrup & Co., Buffalo; A. S. 
Barnes & Co., Prof. James Monteith, Gaylord Watson, and 
Appleton's Encyclopedia, New York; W. & A. K. Johnston, 
Edinburgh, Scotland; Macmillan & Co., London and New 
York; Warne & Co., London, England; Chambers' Encyclo- 
pedia, Edinburgh, Scotland; A. Hartleben, Wien, Austria; 
F. A. Brockhaus, Leipsic, Germany; W. M. Bradley & Bro., 
Cowperthwait & Co., E. H. Butler & Co., T. Elwood Zell, and 
W. H. Gamble, Philadelphia; John Lovell & Son, Montreal, 
Canada, and others of less prominence. 



APPENDIX. 519 

From Maury'^s Manual of Geography: 

" Page 56. Minnesota is crossed by the ridge or 'Height of Land' 
which separates the Valley of the Mississippi from the northern slope of 
the Great Central Plain. On this elevation, 1,600 feet above the sea, 
both the Mississippi and the Red River of the North take their rise, the 
one flowing south and the other north. The crest of the ' Height of 
Land ' is crowned with lakes of clear water. Lake Glazier, one of 
these, is the Source of the Mississippi " 



From Professor J. W. Redway of Philadelphia, an eminent geographer 

and scientist: 

Philadelphia, September 9, 1887. 
Captain Willard Glazier. 

Dear Sir: . . . You will have the satisfaction of knowing that 

by your exertions and enterprise an error of more than fifty years' 

standing has been made apparent. The world owes you a debt for 

determining an important question in geography. 

Sincerely yours, 

J. W. Redway. 



From Messrs. Harper <& Bros. , New York: 

Educational Department. 
"... Recent exploration and survey establish the fact that 
Lake Glazier has the best claim to the distinction of standing at the 
head of the Father of Waters. School geographies, generally, are 
being corrected to show it." 



From W. <& A. K. Johnston^ Edinburgh, Scotland, Geographers and 

Engravers to the Queen: 

"You have the satisfaction of having done a great work in settling 
the vexed question of the Source of your mighty river. For this, all 
interested in geography are indebted to you." 



From Rand, McNally d: Co., Map Makers and Publishers, Chicago: 

"As to the Source of the Mississippi, we gave it considerable atten- 
tion in preparing our new map of Minnesota, and finally fl:xed it as Lake 
Glazier. This, we consider, has the best claim," 



From George F. Cram, Map and Atlas Publisher, Chicago: 

" I mail you to-day a copy of the corrected map of Minnesota, show- 
ing Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi." 



From Messrs. Cowperthwait dt Co., Philadelphia: 

"We have added Lake Glazier to our school maps as the Source of 
the Mississippi." 



520 APPEN"DIX. 

From Matthews, Northrup c& Co., Art Printers, Buffalo, New York: 

" We regard Lake Glazier as the True Source of the Mississippi, and 
are so showing it on all maps, etc., issued by us." 



From Fred Warne c& Co., Publishers, London, England: 

" Pray accept our very cordial thanks. The alteration in the Soiu-ce 
of your great river has been noted, and we shall gladly avail ourselves of 
the information to make the correction in our atlases."' 



From Herr F. A. Brochhaus, Leipsic, Germany: 

"Captain Willard Glazier. 

" Dear Sir: I beg to present my sincere congratulations on your 
important discovery of the True Source of the Mississippi River, and 
thank you for the map illustrating your expedition."" 



From A. S. Barnes <& Co.''s " Complete Geography,'''' Nero York: 

"The Source of the Mississippi is Lake Glazier, a small lake from 
which water flows into Lake Itasca, which until recently was thought 
to be its Source." 



From the University Publishing Company, New York: 

" "We think Lake Glazier is important enough to outrank Itasca as 
the Source of the Mississippi." 



From W. M. Bradley c& Bros., Philadelphia: 

"Lake Glazier appears on our large Atlas of the World, and on 
Mitchell's Atlas, as the True Source of the Mississippi." 



From John Lovell & Son, Educational Publishers, Montreal: 

"The testimonials from leading citizens of Minnesota, and others, 
tell convincingly in Captain Glazier's favor." 



From George H. Benedict <& Co., Map Engravers, Chicago: 

" Lake Glazier is now acknowledged to be the True Som*ce of the 
Mississippi, and will soon appear as such on all maps." 



From Gaylord Watson, Map and Chart Publisher, New York: 

" I shall show Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi on my 
maps." 



From P. CShea, Catholic Publisher, New York: 

" I have come to the conclusion that Lake Glazier is the True 
Source of the Mississippi, and intend to give it as the Source in the new 
editions of my geographies." 



APPENDIX. 521 



From Geo. H. Adams <& Co., Geographical and Art Publishers, New York: 

" We recognize Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi River. 
We beheve Captain Glazier's claim to be the discoverer of the True 
Source is now very generally admitted by all map publishers of this 
country." 



From Map and School Supply Company, Toronto: 

" We consider Lake Glazier the Source of the Mississippi River, and 
are having it appear on all our latest maps as such." 



From John S. Kendall, President National School Furnishing Company, 

Chicago: 

"Captain Willard Glazier. 

" Dear Sir: I am glad to see the entire narrative of your voyage 
"Down the Great River ■" in book form. There is no doubt about your 
expedition having added largely to our rather limited stock of infor- 
mation regarding the country around the Headwaters of the Mississippi. 
I deem it a graceful and fitting compliment to give your name to the 
lake south of Itasca." 



From Colonel George Soule, President of Soule College, New Orleans: 

"I recognize the correctness of Captain Glazier's claim, and shall 
teach that the Source of the Mississippi is Lake Glazier." 



From R. L. Abernethy, A. M.,D. D., President of Rutherford College, 

North Carolina: 

" I am satisfied that Lake Glazier is the True Source of the Missis- 
sippi, and that Captain Glazier is entitled to the honor of the discovery." 



From G. H. Laughlin, A. M., Ph. D., President of Hiram College, Ohio: 

" Captain Glazier has rendered an invaluable service to the science of 
geography. I am glad that the school geographies are being corrected 
so as to indicate Lake Glazier as the Source of the Father of Waters." 



From Marcus Ward & Co., Map and Atlas Publishers, London, England: 

" We are having the necessary alterations made in all our maps, 
and future editions will give Lake Glazier as the Source of the Missis- 
sippi." 

From M. Dripps, Map and Atlas Publisher, New Toi^k: 

"I will avail myself of Captain Glazier's discovery by showing on 
my future maps of the United States its True Source in Lake Glazier." 



522 AfPEKDIX. 

From T. L. Flood, Editor, The Chautauquan, Meadville, Pennsylvania: 

"Judging from the vast amount of evidence, I have no hesitation in 
saying that I believe Lake G-lazier to be the Source of the Mississippi." 



From William Collins, Sons & Company, Publishers, Glasgow, London, 

and Edinburgh: 

"We shall give effect to fhe discovery of the True Source of the 
Mississippi in the next issue of ovu" maps." 



From H. L. Turner, President, Western Publishing House, Chicago and 

New York: 

"We shall at once modify our representation of the Mississippi's 
Source on our maps of the country, for the reason that we fully accept 
Captain Glazier's report and claim." 



From J. R. Spaulding dt Company, Map Publishers, Boston: 

" We think Captain Glazier's claim as to the Source of the Mississippi 
is correct, and Lake Glazier will appear as the True Source hereafter in 
om- pubUcations." 

From John B. Alden, Publisher of '■'• Alden''s Manifold Cyclopcedia'''' 
and " Home Atlas of the World,'''' New York: 

"Lake Glazier is considered the Head of the Mississippi River, and 
is being taught as such in our public schools." 



From. Professor John Jasper, Superintendent of Schools, New York 

City: 

" Our teachers are beginning to accept Lake Glazier as the Source of 
the Mississippi." 



From J. L. Smith, Map Publisher, Philadelphia: 

"Having given considerable attention to the merits of the claim pre- 
sented by Captain Willard Glazier to have definitely located the Source 
of the Mississippi, I am of the opinion that the lake to the south of Itasca 
should be recognized as the Primal Reservoir or True Fountain-head of 
that river, and that Captain Glazier is entitled to the credit of having 
been the first to discover this fact and call public attention to it." 



From, E. H. Butler dt Company, Educational Publishers, 

Philadelphia: 

"We would state that in our own new series of geographies just 
published we make Elk Lake, south of Lake Itasca, the Source of the 
Mississippi. We also recognize the fact that this lake is called Lake 
Glazier, and we presume that the latter title will eventually be 
established." 



APPENDIX. * 523 

From T. Elwood Zell, Publisher of ZelVs Enclyclopmdia, 

Philadelphia: 

" Captain Glazier has discovered the True Source of the Mississippi in 

A lake now bearing his name It would seem that his claim is 

undoubted." 



From Professor James Monteith^ Author of Barnes'' Complete 
Geography, etc., New York: 

"The lake knoAvn as Lake Glazier is, in ray opinion, the Source of 
the Mississippi, and not Itasca Lake. Captain Willard Glazier deserves 
great credit for demonstrating this lake to be the True Source. It is 
sometimes called Elk Lake, but I prefer to call it Lake Glazier." 



From the Moses King Corporation, Map Publishers, Boston: 

"There is a large amount of testimony in favor of Lake Glazier. 
Rand, McNally & Co., the map-makers of Chicago; Matthews, Northrup 
& Co., of Buffalo, with whom we are connected, and others, incorporate 
Lake Glazier into their maps as the Source of the Mississippi ; and we 
incline to the belief that the balance of opinion is in favor of this lake as 
the True Source." 



From Herr A. Hartleben, a leading Publisher of Germany: 

"I congratulate Captain Glazier on his important discovery of the 
Source of the Mississippi River, and shall have great pleasure in bring- 
ing the subject to the notice of our Geographical Society." 

From *■' Alden''s Manifold Cyclopaedia,'''' New York: 

"Glazier Lake (Indian name Pokegama), a small body of water in 
Northern Minnesota, the Source of the Mississippi River, which flows 
from it as a stream a few feet wide and connects it with Lake Itasca, 
which lies to the northward. Lake Glazier is in latitude about 47° N. ; 
is 180 miles in a direct line northwest from Minneapohs, and not far from 
a mile and a half in greatest diameter. It is estimated to be 1,582 feet 
above sea-level, and 3,184 miles from the river's mouth in the Gulf of 
Mexico. Itasca was long deemed the Source, until the discovery of the 
lake beyond by Captain Willard Glazier (born in Fowler, St. Lawrence 
County, N. Y., August 22, 1841; great-grandson of a Massachusetts Rev- 
olutionary soldier, and himself a soldier in the war against secession). 
Having heard from the Indians of lakes beyond Itasca, he explored the 
region, and in his canoe entered Lake Glazier, July 22, 1881. Thence 
he traversed the entire length of the Mississippi in canoes, from its 
Source to the Gulf of Mexico." 



From W. Dundas Walker, Editor, Chambers'' Encyclopcedia, 
Edinburgh, Scotland: 

"I will be glad to take advantage of the information so kindly placed 
at my disposal, and congratulate Captain Glazier on his important 
discovery." 



524 ' APPENDIX. 

From Professor D. L. Webster, Editor, Webster''s Encyclopaedia, 

Chicago: 

"The Glazier Expedition resulted in the location of the True Source 
of the Mississippi. That ' Truth is mighty and will prevail/ was never 
better evidenced than in the event which has placed the Fountain-head 
of the Great River in the lake beyond Itasca." 



The following extract from the " International Encyclo- 
psedia " places Lake Glazier first in the chain of lakes which 
constitute the Headwaters of the Mississippi: 

"Mississippi River. The sources of this great river are Lakes 
Glazier, Itasca, Traverse, or Bemidji, . . . lying among hills of drift 
and bowlders in the midst of pine forests and marshes.'' 



From A^merican Supplement to the Encyclopaedia Britannica: 

"The Mississippi has its source in Lake Glazier, south of Lake 
Itasca, Minnesota, 47° 34' N. lat., 95° 2' W. Long. The greatest 
width of this lake is a mile and a half, and it is deeper than Itasca, with 
which it is connected by a shallow stream about six feet wide." 



From Appleton''s Annual Encyclopaedia, 1885: 

"Lake Itasca, which has been distinguished as the head of the Mis- 
sissippi for fifty years, must, it seems, yield that distinction to a smaller 
lake, about a mile and a half in length by a mile in width, lying farther 
south, discovered by Captain Willard Glazier in 1881, and na^jied for 
him Lake Glazier." 



From Armstrong''s Encyclopaedia, Published by F. J. Schulte, 

Chicago: 

" The necessary changes in regard to the Source of the Mississippi 
will be made in the next edition of my Encyclopaedia." 



Several of the Passenger Agents of our great railways whose 
lines run through Northern Minnesota have signified their 
intention to give Lake Glazier its proper place on their 
railway maps and illustrated time-tables. The following are 
a few of the number: 

From E. A. Ford, General Passenger Agent, Pennsylvania Lines 

West of Pittsburg: 

" I have instructed our advertising clerk to call the attention of our 
engravers to the fact that the Source of the Mississippi River should 
hereafter be shown as Lake Glazier, instead of Lake Itasca." 



APPEJfDIX. 525 

From J. S. Tebbets, General Passenger Agent, Union Pacific Railway: 

" I thank you for the information in regard to our railway map, and 
have sent instructions to our engravers to make the necessary corrections 
in the next issue, showing Lake Glazier as the Source of the Mississippi." 



From J. R. Wood, General Passenger Agent, The Pennsylvania 

Railroad Company: 

" We will make the correction in the next issue of the maps issued 
by this company which will cover the points mentioned by you, namely, 
Lake Glazier, the True Source of the Mississippi. Please accept our 
thanks." 



From J. E. Hannegan, General Passenger Agent, Burlington, Cedar 
Rajnds, and Northern Railway: 

"I shall arrange to have our map plates corrected so as to show the 
True Source of the Mississippi River, and am glad you have called my 
attention to this matter." 



III. 

Report of the Committee Appointed to Superintend 
Survey and Investigations at the Headwaters 
OF the Mississippi— 1891. 

Central House, 

Park Rapids, Minnesota, 

September 2, 1891. 

To Whom it May Concern: The vmdersigned were among the mem- 
bers of a party who have just returned from a visit to the region around 
Lake Itasca in company with Captain Willard Glazier for the purpose of 
investigating it, and ascertaining the facts concerning the Headwaters 
of tlie Mississippi River. 

The party, while invited by Captain Glazier, were under no obliga- 
tions to him, directly or indirectly; and their pm-pose was to see for 
themselves, and to report impartially to the public, upon the facts ascer- 
tained by personal observation. 

The following statement has been formulated by us as a committee, 
and is hereby presented, without Captain Glazier's knowledge: 

I. Two streams were foimd entering the southwest arm of Lake 
Itasca — one to the southwest, known as Nicollet Creek; the other to the 
southeast, flowing from the Glazier Lake. 

II. NicoUet Creek was traversed from its mouth up through 
Nicollet's First and Second Lakes. The creek was still farther traced 
until its source was found in a number of springs, to the southeast of 
which is a ridge varying in height from twenty -five to forty feet. The 
distance from Lake Itasca to these springs was chained and found to 



526 APPEN"DIX. 

be 7,307 feet; this being the I'emotest distance, in that direction, of run- 
ning water. The ridge was ascended and crossed to NicoUefs Third 
Lake, so called, and the region beyond traversed for several miLs. 

in. The stream flowing from the Glazier Lake to Lake Itasca was 
chained, also the Glazier Lake; and its tributaries were followed up and 
chained. There are five tributaries to this lake, which is 1,100 feet from 
Lake Itasca, as follows: On the east side, fifty feet from the bank 
a spring flows in a cascade to the lake. Deer Creek is 6,864 feet long. 
Excelsior Creek is 8,788 feet long, making the distance from its source, 
through the Glazier Lake to Lake Itasca, 14,106 feet. Horton Creek 
is 1.188 feet long, flowing from a lake two acres in area. Eagle Creek 
is 4,356 feet long, flowing from Lake Alice, 924 feet long, and Lake Alice 
has a tributary 1,518 feet long. 

rV. The distance of the most remote running water from Lake Itasca 
flowing through the Glazier Lake to Itasca — the source of Excelsior Creek 
— is 6,799 feet naore than the distance from Lake Itasca of the most 
remote running water flowing into Itasca through Nicollet Creek. 

V. The Glazier Lake has an area of 255 acres. It is a clearly defined 
body of water, many times larger and more imposing than any or all of 
the bodies of water emptying into Lake Itasca through Nicollet Creek; 
and observation and investigation lead us to the conclusion that the basin 
drained by the feeders to the Glazier Lake, and emptying into Itasca at 
the southeast corner of the southwest arm, is larger than that drained 
by the stream emptying into the south side of the southwest arm — 
Nicollet Creek ; and that running water can be traced at a much greater 
distance from the outlet of the Glazier Lake into Itasca than from the 
other outlet referred to. 

(Signed) John C. Crane, 

Daniel S. Knowlton, 
C. E. Harrison, 
Fred J. Trost, 

A. MUNSELL, 

W. S. Shure, 
A. W. Whitney, 
Committee of Investigation of the Glazier Expedition, 1891. 

Before closing this Appendix, I may be permitted to say 
that, in nothing I have advanced, have I, knowingly, over- 
stepped the bounds of truth. As the reader will probably 
gather, I feel very strongly that an injustice has been done by 
certain parties to a citizen who deserved nothing but commen- 
dation at their hands for his meritorious and disinterested 
labor in a field neglected by others, and, I may add, especially 
by those who have been foremost in attacking him. The con- 
duct of these parties would have been less open to censure, if 
they had refrained from the use of language unbecoming gen- 
tlemen, and supposed men of learning, and confined them- 



APPENDIX. 527 

selves to controverting the position of Captain Glazier by pro- 
ducing reliable counter-evidence to prove that he was in error 
in his conclusions. This, hovrever, being impossible, recourse 
was had to abuse of a malignant character, for which there 
was no excuse. 

As will be seen, Captain Glazier has numerous friends and 
supporters throughout the country — men of intelligence and 
standing — and I am thoroughly persuaded that among people 
generally, competent to entertain an opinion upon the subject 
in controversy, an overwhelming number will be found to up- 
hold his views. 

I conclude by reiterating that I am thoroughly convinced 
from my own observations made on the spot in the month of 
August, 1891, and confirmed by the competent and disinter- 
ested testimony of every member of the expedition, that Lake 
Glazier, lying immediately to the south of Lake Itasca, is the 
Primal Reservoir, or Ultimate Source, of the Mississippi 
River. 

Pearce Giles. 
Camden, New Jersey, 

January 24, 1893. 




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